window will not go up. 80 T/A passenger side

[dinero]

OK, so the drivers side window will not go up. the drive side works perfect. So I replaced switch and pigtail with new one. No difference. I ran wire from battery, unplugged motor and put wire to each side of prong on motor and window flies up and down perfect.  When I put connector back on, it's the same, it goes down ok but not up. If this was a ground issue, why does it work ok when I put power to it directly? I checked for broken wires, non found. Any ideas?  Thanks
Update: I put a test light to the connector to each side, no light on the test light? Is it supposed to light up when I touch either side of connector? Also how do I get to the wires that go into the door?

[silver78]

You confirmed the motor works by using the battery positive wired directly to it. Brown wire is down blue wire is up. Sounds like you need to trace the blue wire from the motor through the black rubber boot in the door jamb to the chrome switch in the console. Look for a cut wire.

[dinero]

thank you silver78. I will certainly do that. if there is no cut wire at boot, would i have to remove the covers there under the glove compartment to get to check the wires there? I have a new switch and pigtail connector. Will trace the blue wire. So would you say this is not a grounding issue then? Thanks

[Wallington]

Clean the hinges, it's the best your grounding will be. If you ran live wires to each motor and it worked, but still only had ground through the car, then the ground is working through the hinges as it should be. The only wires left are live and directed by what the switch is doing.

[dinero]

I will certainly look into that. Now on to chasing the blue wire. Working on pulling the boot wire to one side and check. Will keep you all posted. Thank you

[gstrandfarm9420]

I had the same exact problem on a 99 Ford Super Duty, it turned out to be a broken wire from the DRIVERS side window switch in the door jam area, which had me scratching my head but fixed the wire and everything worked fine.

[dinero]

that sounds encouraging that I am in the right path. Thank you

[firebirdparts]

it's going to be tortuously difficult to really follow that wire.   I think it would be easier to run a new one, and honestly, even that is going to be very difficult.   But in any case, as you've already figured out, there is a single circuit from switch to motor that makes that window go up.  Ground is through the hinges.

That system is made in four big pieces; the switch lead, the 2 door harnesses (short) and the section that hangs on the inside of the firewall.  All the joints in it are behind the kick panels.  The kick panels are almost beyond removable by mere humans.

[dinero]

i dread that kick panel so  much that it hurts.
So I did try something else. I put the connector back on the motor, then got the wire i put on the battery hot side..I double folded the wire to make it stiffer...and pushed it in from the backside of the connector on the blue wire and the window went up.
OK, so does this mean that the blue wire is in fact getting power? So is possible that the  blue side of the connector is bad? Mystery

[silver78]

i dread that kick panel so  much that it hurts.
So I did try something else. I put the connector back on the motor, then got the wire i put on the battery hot side..I double folded the wire to make it stiffer...and pushed it in from the backside of the connector on the blue wire and the window went up.
OK, so does this mean that the blue wire is in fact getting power? So is possible that the  blue side of the connector is bad? Mystery

Did you connect a wire from the Battery + post directly to the blue side of the connector on the motor and it ran sending window up?  it should of worked that way without using the chrome switch.  This will not confirm the Blue wire itself is good or bad. It only confirms the motor itself works and the motor has a good ground.
  If you take a wire and connect it from the chrome switch on the post where the factory blue wire is attached and connect the other end of the same wire to the motor. Using the switch should make the motor work and you confirmed the factory Blue wire is not working but the switch and motor are working.  Hope this helps.

[dinero]

this shows the original pigtail with correct wire colors. the other pigtail is the one I bought. So I can't figure out with wire color on the new pigtail goes to the wire color on the car itself. any ideas? thanks

[silver78]

Since my console is out I'll try to get a pic of the inside view of the chrome console switch with factory wires connected still.

[dinero]

Since my console is out I'll try to get a pic of the inside view of the chrome console switch with factory wires connected still.

Thank you Silver78. well appreciated

[silver78]

Here's the factory switch and wires.

Light tan -pass side down
blue/white stripe - pass side up
dark brown - driver side down
solid blue - driver side up
pink - pwr in

Years ago I gentle pried apart the switch itself removing the white plastic portion and cleaned the contacts inside.

[dinero]

Here's the factory switch and wires.

Light tan -pass side down
blue/white stripe - pass side up
dark brown - driver side down
solid blue - driver side up
pink - pwr in

Awesome, ging to give it a go here in a bit. Thanks

Years ago I gentle pried apart the switch itself removing the white plastic portion and cleaned the contacts inside.

[dinero]

I was trying to match those colors with the new pigtail i bought. the new pigtail colors do not match the colors of the orig pigtail. see photo i posted earlier. thanks

[silver78]

If you have a volt meter you can check for continuity on the new connector. hold one probe on the pin side and the other probe on any end of a bare wire. once you have a match the volt meter will make a beep.

[dinero]

I got it, the blue solid wire had a break on it. Fixed it right up. All good to go. Thanks everyone