Author Topic: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project  (Read 33579 times)

Jack

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #80 on: March 25, 2022, 12:08:38 PM »
That came out great... Although I agree nothing should take that long.




Regards, Jack

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #81 on: March 25, 2022, 11:07:11 PM »
Yeah..way too long of a wait.
 I had wanted a leather wheel since the beginning of the project. Last summer I got to see and feel a Lecarra replacement wheel my brother had in his '81 'Vette.  I put it on my holiday wish list immediately.  Once I knew it was on its way I couldn't help noticing the wear on the original wheel. And, consequently feeling as though the old wheel was really taking something away from the look and feel of the interior restoration.
   
Sorry to hear you're having a similar wait for your dash bezel Roadking.  If you are not already doing so, keep checking on it.  I remember an extended wait for one of my digital gauges a while back.  The online retailer just kept saying it was on backorder and giving me what felt like a made up date.  After a couple of similar updates, I decided to call the manufacturer(mfr).  In that instance, the mfr said that they didn't have a record of the order.  In this case, I called Lecarra after the first date estimate passed.  They where able to give me much more detailed status updates. In December they told me the delay was because of an equipment problem. Their 'foam machine' was busted.  When I checked in 60 days later they were able to tell me my wheel was out at the ''stitchers''. Apparently the wheels are built there, then sent out in batches to the place that wraps and stitches the leather.

Whoa...Sorry 'bout that...That little expression of empathy got away from me there and turned into a whole paragraph! I should have just said ''Hope your bezel comes soon, Roadking.''  But, no.  Instead, I ended up rambling on about how a gauge order got messed up 2 years ago, and how Lecarra makes their steering wheels.  Advice aimed at someone like Roadking. Who probably has more experience with ordering car parts than I do. I remember one time...Crap! there I go again! ;-p   

Anyway,
 I did have a problem/question about the steering column and wheel/turn signal canceling cam alignment.  So, if you're familiar with that stuff, please check back soon.  I'm doing some research and getting some pics to share for advice on how that works.

Thanks for checking in, guys. 
Take care.

-Tom 

« Last Edit: March 25, 2022, 11:18:42 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #82 on: August 31, 2022, 08:05:42 PM »
Hello TAC,
   I suppose it was inevitable that I'd fall off page one...I haven't done much project-wise this Summer.  I have been spending a lot of time just driving and enjoying the car.   I did have one little project related update I thought I'd share.

I see that I left off asking about the turn signal switch, so I suppose I should begin there...

 Since I started driving the car the turn signal cancel has been 'off'...It worked but canceled too early on one side and too late on the other.   Plus the switch itself was hard to engage. I'd really have to force it to catch.  I replaced the switch with a new one, then while installing the new steering wheel, I noticed I hadn't aligned the notch on the wheel and hub back in the day.    When we assembled the column way back early in the project, the car was a long way from being driven, and had none of the steering linkage etc.  I guess I just put the wheel on so it looked straight back then.

Lesson: The turn signal switch, cancel cam, wheel lock, and wheel hub only fit together one way.  The wheel and hub can be clocked out of whack.  There is a notch on the wheel that needs to align with a notch in the collar.  Pretty obvious if you are paying attention...I was not.

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

You can see the notch in the wheel in this pic...Look through the hole in the top wheel's 9 O'clock spoke. 
IMG_8691 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

There's a same shape notch in the collar.

Ok, that's sort of boring.   I did have one little project I was very proud of...It was a requirement I had set for participating in this event...

HRPT Nashville by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The Hot Rod Power Tour (HRPT) is something I've wanted to do since its inception.  For 2022 the HRPT was started in Memphis TN, with a stop in Nashville, TN before continuing on to Florida and Georgia.  My brother's shop (Classic Auto Painting, Mt. Juliet, TN) is right outside Nashville.  He hadn't seen the car put back together yet, and I had some extra time off work to use this year.  So, this was the year to finally run the HRPT!  I wanted to be perfectly comfortable sitting in traffic in Florida or "Hotlanta's" Mid-June sunshine.  I needed a set of T-top shades.   And, I wanted them to look good installed in the car.   Here's what I came up with...

TA T-Top covers by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

TA T-Top covers by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

TA T-Top covers by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I made these shades using 'Plastic cardboard' (Curragated plastic) board as the base, leftover headliner material, Red interior 'Windlace' (Classic Industries PN: T5DKRED), some black adhesive-backed vinyl, and a couple of pieces of heavy-duty adheasive-backed velcro.

Here's the basic setup:
T-top shade mock up by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

 We covered the side facing up with the black vinyl.  Then, we used headliner adhesive to cover the inside with the leftover headliner material.  The windlace was then wrapped around 3 sides to make finished edge covering where the headliner material wraps around.   
TA T-Top covers by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

When installed, the 4th side (with no windlace) slides in between the interior garnish molding and the glass.  The other three sides rest upon the interior T-Top trim pieces.  There's enough space, and enough of a lip between the glass and the top of the interior trim to hold the shade up. And, the snug fit between garnish molding and glass holds it tightly.   The only problem with this set up was that it was a little awkard putting the tops on and off and sliding them into the storage bags with the shades installed.  I put a couple pieces of heavy duty velcro on the shade's top side and T-Top glass to hold the shade so that I can easily install, remove, and store the tops with the shades installed   

The interior temps remained consistently cool (head to toe) and comfortable in Mid-day, Mid-June, 95+ degree days on the tour.  And the TA made it all the way to FLA and back, no problem...

HRPT FLa by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Well...Pretty much no problem.  I was gonna share my HRPT experience and some pics in the 'Lobby'.   Keep an eye out there if you're interested.

Thanks for checking in guys!

Take care.

-Tom 
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #83 on: September 01, 2022, 06:42:25 AM »
Awesome update! Heading to the lobby to check the pictures of the power tour.

1976 Trans Am LS1 and much more...SOLD
1968 Camaro LSA, T56 Magnum, and much more...SOLD

Current Project: 1955 Nomad LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes and etc...

roadking77

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #84 on: September 01, 2022, 02:17:33 PM »
Looks good Tom, you and I talked at the show in Lancaster, you said you were not completely happy with the sub frame connectors. I was reading an article and it hit me, you should check out the VSE Herb Adams (I think thats what they are?) front end bracing that goes to the firewall and back to the front of the sub frame in the engine compartment. IF they fit with your transplant?
Finished!
77 T/A - I will Call this one DONE!
79 TATA 4sp-Next Project?
79 TATA - Lost to Fire!
86 Grand Prix - Sold
85 T/A - Sold
85 Fiero - Sold
82 Firebird - Sold
'38-CZ 250
'39-BSA Gold Star
'49-Triumph 350
'52-Ariel Red Hunter
'66-BSA Lightning
'01-HD RoadKing

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #84 on: September 01, 2022, 02:17:33 PM »

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #85 on: September 02, 2022, 05:08:46 AM »
I'm interested in your thoughts on this. I feel my car is stiffer with the connectors buy I still have rattling and in my roof area. I too thought about the front braces. I also want to take my headline out again and double check the roof panel to see if I missed something like panel separation or something. The car also feels like it needs to be stiffer overall.
79 Trans am low buck LS swapped
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (waiting it's turn)
69 Dodge charger on late model charger chassis
49 Ford F1 on a 2003 Chevy ZR2 Chassis (current project)
Names, Luke. If I hear anyone telling me they're my father....

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #86 on: November 11, 2022, 11:10:26 PM »
Hey guys,
  I haven't had any significant 'project' related stuff going on.  So, I haven't been on here in a while...The stiffness/twisting question is one I've been thinking of a lot this Summer.  Don't tell DMV, but I put almost 9000 Miles on the TA this summer and rigidity continues to be an issue...
  My problem shows up in the doors/rocker area  Although the car is relatively solid, heavy bumps make the doors 'bang'.  The doors have 0 play in any direction, but certain hard hits cause enough movement to cause the top rear edge to whack up into the jam.  As evidence by chipped paint in that position on both sides of the care.   AND...Although I can't be 100% certain, I think I see a wobble in the driver side rocker sheet metal that wasn't there when the paint and body were done.

  I have bolt in sub-frame connectors installed on this car.  They definitely helped.  But I'm convinced they need to be welded in.  I was going to weld them in during my trip to Nashville for the HRPT.  But we never got around to it.  Welding them in is a priority 'cause my car is still so floppy.  I bought a set of PTFB G-Braces, but they do not fit around the current LS1/Vintage Air AC setup. So, I returned them.

One thing I should mention is that my car is approaching 1/4 of a million miles.  The odometer turned over 200K last fall, and it showed 7K when it...Ummm..."stopped working" around mid-summer this year.  Next season I'm sure to hit 225,000 unofficial miles.  Until I do something drastic, I don't think the floppy-ness will go away.   

I plan on starting to buy Turbo parts next season, and install them the season after that.  As part of that project I expect to break the car down a bit to freshen up the paint and engine.   I'm going to look into some sort of body/frame mods to quell the twisting then.  We'll see I guess.

In the mean time I'm just gonna keep driving it! We've been loving it!

Below are some pics from our travels this fall.  But first, since this is a project thread...We did have a couple small projects come up...

First, I had to replace the GPS speedo in the hoodscoop.  I broke it by running 12v up one of the wires intended for the GPS antenna signal.   (I have a terminal that I can plug in to supply power to the gauges when the cars off...For shows.  I plugged it in wrong at a show and fried the Speedo).

So, I pulled it out...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

And had Julie wire the new one in...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Oh...And I have a new shop cat Elwood 'Woody' Blues.  You can see him under the bench above.

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Elwood would wonder through my yard from time to time over the past couple years. So we were familiar.  A guy around the block passed away, then the house burnt down.  After which Woody started coming by every day.  I put 2 and 2 together and confirmed with the deceased home owner's brother that this was, in fact his dead brother's cat.  He didn't like his brother, and said I could have the cat (Thanks.)  I though the looked like a Jake, but My brother's have had a couple of dogs named Jake, so we call him Elwood.   He's a decent shop cat, he knows the sound of both my Challenger and Trans-Am and frequently greets me at the garage when I get home.

Anyway...The other 'project' was a replacement windshield...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

A piece of fruit fell out of a tree and whacked the windshield hard.  I was actually glad it hit the window and not the sheetmetal (or my wife, I guess).   It would've left a nasty dent in either of 'em.

Now for some gratuitous TA pics from this fall...

From Valley Forge National Park:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

And Quakertown PA:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Valley Forge and Quakertown are close to home.  But, we also went to our first car show at the Jersey shore in September...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Long Beach Island NJ to be exact. 

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

That tall thing back there is Barnegat Light at the northern tip of LBI.

The best fall trip was to the Catskills in New York in mid October...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

  I have a decent list of stuff to I want to get done on the car this Winter.  Mostly small stuff, except for installing Coil-overs in front.  Coil-over's were on my list last winter too...So, we'll see if I can get that done this year.

Thanks for checking in guys! 
Take care.

-Tom
« Last Edit: November 11, 2022, 11:16:45 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #87 on: November 11, 2022, 11:15:32 PM »
Like always,  car looks great Tom!
79 Trans am low buck LS swapped
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (waiting it's turn)
69 Dodge charger on late model charger chassis
49 Ford F1 on a 2003 Chevy ZR2 Chassis (current project)
Names, Luke. If I hear anyone telling me they're my father....

5th T/A

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #88 on: November 12, 2022, 08:53:48 AM »
Tom, it’s great to see more postings from you.
 
A couple observations;

Your photographic presentation is beautiful, like something you would see in a high line magazine.

I am one who likes a stock looking car; I feel it’s hard to improve upon what GM originally designed. Having said that I really like the subtle changes you have made. They look like a natural migration of what GM would have done had they continued to build second generation Firebirds.

Nine thousand miles in a single year is great. In 2 ½ years I put only 3K on my car.

Having your wife willing and able to help you on your car is priceless!

When these cars were designed the engineers never conceived modern day tires, brakes, chassis loads and horsepower. Let alone putting 200K miles on the chassis. Add to that the inherit weakness of a half Unibody / front sub-frame chassis with the roof cut out for T-tops. If you really want to tighten things up this is a very expensive and labor-intensive solution.

IMG_3480 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr

IMG_3482 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr

IMG_3483 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr
1980 T/A with a Pontiac 461

Gone but not forgotten;
1973 T/A 455
1975 T/A 400
1978 T/A W72
1982 T/A cross fire injected

Two wheel toys;
2014 Harley Ultra Classic Limited
2013 Honda CB1100
2010 Yamaha Vmax
1982 Yamaha Seca 750

tajoe

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #89 on: November 12, 2022, 11:46:07 AM »
Holy moly!. Add a 12 pt roll cage, and be super gas certified.  :grin: Didn't know there were full framed F-body kits out there.
"You can sell an old man a young mans car,
but you can't sell a young man an old mans car"
                                       Bunkie Knudsen
<

Jack

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #90 on: November 12, 2022, 05:00:12 PM »
Beautiful pictures and car.




Regards, Jack

RamblerRacer

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #91 on: November 13, 2022, 07:28:30 AM »
TTA,

I ended up making my own stiffeners for the front of my TA
I’ll dig up some pictures or take a couple later and post them

Great pictures and stories behind the result of such a beautiful ride

RamblerRacer

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #92 on: November 13, 2022, 04:43:50 PM »
Here are some pictures of the stiffener bars I made for the TA.
They stayed on the car unpainted for a while before I took them off to paint them
I drove the car around for the few days it took to get them back in-place and was stunned by how much of a difference they made.
These are made from the rear bars of a G-body roll bar kit and are 1-5/8" in diameter
You could probably get away with 1" and still have considerable results but will probably have to find someone to custom bend them for you.





This is how the front of the bar attaches.
It resembles the front down-tube on a car with a 10-point cage.
I drilled and tapped one of two plates, bolted them together and then tacked the bar to one with the holes, and tacked the tapped one to the frame while it was resting on the front of the subframe.
Then I unbolted it and finished welded everything up,



Pardon the mess >>>> it is still filthy from all the bodywork and needs to be cleaned up and put back together.





The rear of the bar has a plate that mates with one behind the firewall.

S&W are right near you but to get them to make something custom might be a stretch.
I am not familiar with them, but a chassis shop called Precision Chassis in in Pottstown.
If interested I could see if I can reach out to some racers that might know about them or someone else nearby.

JT
« Last Edit: November 13, 2022, 04:49:24 PM by RamblerRacer »

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #93 on: November 14, 2022, 11:16:33 PM »
Wow…That roadster shop chassis is sweet!.  I knew they existed but never bothered to look one up.  That would be my dream solution.  If I hit the lottery Roadster shop will be my second phone call.  As it stands now, Ramblers solution is closer to what I had in my head.   
Thanks for the shop suggestions.  I will make a note of them and put them aside for later.   I hope to do something like those braces as part of the Turbo project.   I have a couple seasons before that happens though.   Sticking with the plan to whittle away at it over the next couple years.  Then when my kid is done school I will(hopefully) be able to pull the trigger on ‘phase two’ of the project.

 I’m excited already though.  A turbo will put this car over the top for me.

Thanks again for the input guys.
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

roadking77

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #94 on: November 15, 2022, 07:14:25 AM »
I like RR's work. I think that would make a huge difference. Just an FYI, I have met up with Tom on many occasions, and I have to say his car looks better in person than in the pics. Plus I love the fact that he drives the &^&&%* out of it. We need to have an annual TAC Drivers award, I nominate Tom for the first one :grin:
Finished!
77 T/A - I will Call this one DONE!
79 TATA 4sp-Next Project?
79 TATA - Lost to Fire!
86 Grand Prix - Sold
85 T/A - Sold
85 Fiero - Sold
82 Firebird - Sold
'38-CZ 250
'39-BSA Gold Star
'49-Triumph 350
'52-Ariel Red Hunter
'66-BSA Lightning
'01-HD RoadKing

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #94 on: November 15, 2022, 07:14:25 AM »

RamblerRacer

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #95 on: November 17, 2022, 08:11:26 PM »
I like RR's work. I think that would make a huge difference. Just an FYI, I have met up with Tom on many occasions, and I have to say his car looks better in person than in the pics. Plus I love the fact that he drives the &^&&%* out of it. We need to have an annual TAC Drivers award, I nominate Tom for the first one :grin:

Supported!
Are we following Roberts Rules?
 :-P

RamblerRacer

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #96 on: November 17, 2022, 08:13:26 PM »
Now we need a motion to accept...... and a role call, but we know how this may end
Quality of product and miles behind the tail...... TA Turbo FTW

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #97 on: November 23, 2022, 06:16:22 PM »
LOL. You’re too kind…I’m flattered just to be nominated.   :-)
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #98 on: December 17, 2022, 12:17:25 AM »
Hello again TAC!

I just posted in the suspension section, questions I have about installing the parking brake lever onto the back of the rear calipers on a stock 4-Wheel-Disc setup.

A non-existent parking brake has prevented me from getting an actual PA safety inspection since the car's been 'done'. 
If anyone has any experience putting this system together, please check out the post below and let me know if you have any input.

http://www.transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=84608.0

Thanks in advance guys!

Take Care
-Tom
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #99 on: April 03, 2023, 10:17:56 PM »
Hey TAC!  Hope everyone's doing well.  I've been lurking around this winter with nothing interesting to post. 
The one significant thing I planned on doing this winter, coilovers on the front end...For a bunch of reasons, that hasn't happened.  Yet.

My car did spend about 6 weeks ass up in the garage...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Messing with that stupid parking brake.  Long story short...The LH Caliper is 'special'...Parts places will sell you a generic, unmarked 'LH' Caliper, that is not correct...and because that's the one I got,  I can't make it work correctly.  I did get it rigged good enough to maybe pass inspection.

Other than that project, I did fix one nuisance that has dogged us since we got the car back on the road.  Floppy sunvisors.   The passenger side was the worst...It would slowly droop down over time or big bumps.  I cranked on that set screw pretty hard, and it still would come loose.  At one point I installed shrink wrap on the Sunvisor retainer peg thingy...That held it for a while.   Meanwhile, the driver's side got looser and looser in the forward and backward directions. It would move forward and hit the windshield on hard braking. 
While researching new sunvisor brackets I found these chumpies:

Sunvisor inserts by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Sunvisor inserts!?!?  I've been around a bunch and messed with a bunch of TA's in my life.  I never knew there were inserts inside of there!  A set of those little plastic chumpies and a new set of these...

Sunvisor bracket by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

...solved the long running sunvisor nuisance.
 
 Covid going through the house and some other circumstances gave us time and a reason to go through some old pics.  I found this pick of the TA circa 1997/1998.  I'll need to get a proper scan of this...The skew picked up by a phone cam pic of  a pic makes this look a little funky:
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

And... I found a couple of pics of my 1996 Formula WS6, and my brothers 4th Gen from around 2000:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

OK, so what's next?
 I finally got my Coilovers!   I checked out a couple different brands (There aren't a whole bunch).  Ultimately I decided to go with single adjustable, QA1's with a 400# spring.   The 400# spring was recommended by QA1 considering ride comfort is the primary goal.  I'm looking forward to being able to dial in the ride height this spring.   I've been wanting to bring the front end down a little ever since the car rolled out of the paint booth.  I'm hoping the QA1's allow me to get a comfortable ride, just a little lower than the current 'stock' ride height.  Yet provide enough control to not induce front tire rubs on dips.  The air shocks on the rear allowed me to keep the same 'stock' ride height, but (apparently) better control over the spring left me with no more tire rubbing hits at that height. 

Speaking of those air shocks...I had put some pressure in to accommodate my adult kid riding in the back through a Christmas light show back in December.  I realized after taking this pick that I hadn't let the rear back down yet...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Although it's not staying there... I like these cars jacked up a bit in the rear.  Showing my age I suppose?

Anyway...Check back in for updates on the QA1Coilover project!   I'm excited to get them installed!

Take care.

-Tom
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #100 on: April 04, 2023, 03:24:19 AM »
I am excited to see the coil overs! You setup is close to mine and I believe we have thw same goal as far as ride so I'm interested to see how this goes! I really need to get my spoilers on. Your car looks great!
79 Trans am low buck LS swapped
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (waiting it's turn)
69 Dodge charger on late model charger chassis
49 Ford F1 on a 2003 Chevy ZR2 Chassis (current project)
Names, Luke. If I hear anyone telling me they're my father....

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #101 on: April 04, 2023, 06:25:14 AM »
Great updates Tom! Looking forward to hearing your reviews of the coil overs.

1976 Trans Am LS1 and much more...SOLD
1968 Camaro LSA, T56 Magnum, and much more...SOLD

Current Project: 1955 Nomad LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes and etc...

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #102 on: April 25, 2023, 09:39:40 PM »
Hello again, TAC!

 As noted in my last post...Going into season #4 with my 'finished' TTA I finally got coil-overs installed on the front end!
 I'm going to try something new today.  I'll get right to the main observations right up front. Only then will I ramble on about my mistakes, what I -really- think of this coil-over 'conversion kit', stuff I think might help someone else, and some useless details.  Proceed at your own risk. :-)

Summary:
1) The installation of QA1's "Pro Coilover system" (Summit PN GS501-10400C) was not complex or difficult.
     (But it did take me 2 tries and some customization/tweaking.)
 2) I would recommend reading and following the instructions.
      (I didn't follow them closely, which (in part) lead to an R&R session after the initial test drive.)
 3) I didn't get the ride quality improvement I had hoped for.
       (But ride comfort/quality is marginally improved. Maybe 20% 'better')
 4) I did notice an improvement in feel/cornering/performance.
        (But, that has had unintended consequences)
 5) I did get the front-end ride height where I like it.
       (But (at this stage) the car is more likely to rub a front tire on big dips then it was before.)
 6) I may end up moving up to a 450lb spring.
        (But, not this season)
 7) I would recommend them to others
     (But my very high expectations were not quite met.)

Before (top) and after(bottom): Both front and rear are 1/2" lower now than they were before...
 
 
Recently Updated by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Still here? OK. Here's some additional details about the install...

The installation was pretty straightforward.  Just 5 steps!
 1) Remove the shocks
 2) Disconnect the sway bar end links
 3) Separate the lower control arm from the spindle
 4) Remove the stock springs
 5) Put the new coil-over where the old shock and spring were
 
Pro Tips:  -Remove the sway bar entirely.  This makes -more- work, but provides more room
                to work -in-.
                 [Really the reason I removed the bar is that I sort of skimmed over the instructions this
                   first time through. So, maybe this first one isn't such a 'Pro' tip.
                     Know what? Leave the bar on the frame, or remove it. Dealers' choice.]
             - Removing the little bump stop on the lower control arm provides more space to swing a
                hammer at the ball joint area of the spindle.
             - Estimate about 2 hours from start to finish for the first front corner.
               [Add another 1 Hr. 45Min. to remove and reinstall both front coil-overs when you realize
                 That you did something wrong.  (Practice makes perfect!)]

The bar at the bottom of the coilover rides on top of the lower control arm.  The nuts that the stock shock bolts screw into from the bottom of the control arm will interfere.  They need to be removed.

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

 My very late 1981 Van Nuys car just J-Nuts (or whatever these are called) for the lower shock mounts. These pop right off:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Apparently, some cars have nuts welded to the lower control arm for the lower shock mount.  If your car has welded-on nuts there, they need to be ground/cut off

Here's how the lock nut and spring seat/adjuster nut install onto the coilover body:
  [I really wasn't aware how exactly they piece together, exactly.  Your knowledge may vary.]

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickrr

Run them all the way to the bottom and leave them there. (Just like the instructions say).

 Then install the (optional) thrust bearing set sandwich on top of the spring seat adjuster nut thing. 
 Nut...Washer...Bearing...Washer like this:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Finally, with the shaft fully extended, drop on the spring:
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Oh...Here's something someone might actually find helpful...

I used a couple of large Phillips screwdrivers to orient the lower shock mount tabs on the coilover with the shock mount holes on the lower control arm. while jacking up the lower control arm.
Like this...

by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I mentioned that by the 4th one I was under an hour to remove and reinstall one of these things.  Each Front coil over was installed twice. r Here's the mistake to lead to all of that practice....

The initial test drive made it about 1.5Mi. before we had to stop driving. A constant squeak quickly developed from the front end.  Not an occasional, light squeak.  No...ANY movement of the lower control arm introduced a VERY loud, VERY high pitch squeaking sound.  We stopped in a parking lot @ Valley Forge National Park where  I found the noise was coming from the top shock mount area.  It appeared as though the stock shaft was slanted inboard several degrees...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

And..If you look closely at the pic above you can see a witness mark where the washer was rubbing against the shock mount.

So, I limped it home.  Jacked it up...took the coilovers out, and reinstalled them.  This time I carefully followed the directions.  This process helped straighten the shaft and get the bushings seated better up top.

BUT...the top washer still looked like it would rub the frame.  A comparison of the QA1 washers with the washers I had installed on the stock ACDelco shocks showed the QA1 washer was just a bit larger.  Maybe 1/16 - 1/8 In. bigger diameter. 

My Dremel solved that problem by trimming a bit off the washer...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

(Note: The lighting in the pic above makes it look more like I took more off that washer than I actually did. I took off somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8th of an inch.)

I guess that was the only real problem we ran into:
 Installer error combined with a clearance problem created a terrible squeak. The second installation, performed in accordance with the instruction document (pretty much) corrected the problem.

STILL HERE!?  OK...Here are some more subjective impressions:
  1) The adjustability is definitely noticeable. Per the instructions, I started on the softest setting. And...It was really soft.
  2) I made probably 6-8 adjustments on the knob and spring before settling where it is now.
  3) I am asking a LOT of these coil overs:
       a.) I wanted the front end just a little lower than it was before.
           -This was a win.
       b.) I wanted a 'softer' ride.  Less harsh impacts on pot-holes.
           -This was a slight improvement
       c.) I needed a+b with no rubbing on the 245R17 front tires.
           -This is a draw. It will rub on severe dips at higher speeds.     
       d.) I expected a+b+c with improved cornering.
           -This was a win. The turn-in and set is much quicker and tighter.
            *BUT...Now the back end feels loose.
       e.) I expected a+b+c+d with an improvment in road feel.
           -This was a win.
   4) I'm glad I got the single adjustable shocks.  300+ settings on the doubles would've driven me crazy. 



AWESOME! You made it all the way to some Random details and Bonus 'After' pics:
 How'd I pick a spring rate?
 My '81 with a LS1/4L60E has 1950 lbs. on the front end. I contacted QA1 for spring rate recommendations.   After explaining that improved ride comfort is high on the list of targets for this install, they recommended 400 lbs springs.  QA1 Tech said that if I hadn't mentioned that softening hits on the front end and improving crushing comfort as key goals, they would've recommended 450lbs springs for an LS1 swapped 2nd Gen F-Body.

 What's the coil-over 'conversion' cost?
I paid $660 something for QA1 Single adjustable shocks and springs.  They are really nice parts.  My only complaint is that they don't come with the spanner wrenches and thrust bearing set. They should at least throw in the spanner wrenches on your first set.  Alas, they are not included, So...Add $60 for the bearing and spanner wrenches.

 The shocks really do look and feel like good, quality stuff...


 
 BONUS After Pics:
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Was it worth it?
All in all, at this stage, I'm happy with the investment.  We'll see how they hold up.

What's next?
 Driving! In addition to dialing in the coil over install, over the past couple of weeks we've spent a lot of time just going over everything to get ready for the season.   We had some stuff come loose, a couple of grounds that needed cleaning up, and windows and weather stripping that needed some tweeking.

Hopefully everything's dialed in and water-tight 'cause our first outing for 2023 is a trip to Nashville via VA and NC (Tail of the Dragon and Cherohala Skyway).  That trip starts (most likely in the rain) this weekend!

Thanks for checking in guys!  And if you made it all the way here...I hope found a little something useful or interesting.

Take care!

-Tom
« Last Edit: April 25, 2023, 10:21:10 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #103 on: April 26, 2023, 06:35:24 AM »
Great update as always Tom! If you find yourself in the Charlottesville, VA area on your trip let me know. You can stop by and check out the Nomad!

1976 Trans Am LS1 and much more...SOLD
1968 Camaro LSA, T56 Magnum, and much more...SOLD

Current Project: 1955 Nomad LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes and etc...

5th T/A

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #104 on: April 26, 2023, 01:56:13 PM »
Tom, lots of great details on your suspension upgrade.
1980 T/A with a Pontiac 461

Gone but not forgotten;
1973 T/A 455
1975 T/A 400
1978 T/A W72
1982 T/A cross fire injected

Two wheel toys;
2014 Harley Ultra Classic Limited
2013 Honda CB1100
2010 Yamaha Vmax
1982 Yamaha Seca 750

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #104 on: April 26, 2023, 01:56:13 PM »

tajoe

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #105 on: April 26, 2023, 02:06:21 PM »
Now for some skid pad numbers.
"You can sell an old man a young mans car,
but you can't sell a young man an old mans car"
                                       Bunkie Knudsen
<

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #106 on: April 26, 2023, 03:25:30 PM »
Tom, I was really hoping to hear of this being a miracle fix for a semi stiff front end. I understand that the 17" wheels we now have play a part in the stiffness but I was hoping this would compensate a bit more for it. In my case though I believe a lot of my "jarring/stiffness" comes from my rear shocks. I purchased the same air shocks as you did but I haven't gotten to install them yet. Like you my front end is up about 1/2" more than I would like even with 2" Hotchkiss drop coils. You ride height now looks to be perfect, did you have to change your rear air pressure to accommodate the front change and do you think having your caster changed/reset would help or is needed?
79 Trans am low buck LS swapped
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (waiting it's turn)
69 Dodge charger on late model charger chassis
49 Ford F1 on a 2003 Chevy ZR2 Chassis (current project)
Names, Luke. If I hear anyone telling me they're my father....

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #107 on: April 28, 2023, 10:52:26 PM »
Thanks Guys.
 FormTA...After living with this set up for a couple of weeks now, I think I'll bump up the 'ride comfort/harshness' rating a bit.  They were not a magic bullet.  But, the front coilovers did help.  After a hundred miles or so, I'd give them a better rating for the ride comfort/harshness issue. I'm willing to go up from 20% improvement to 30% improvement.

Dialing in the ride height was second on my list of 'wants'.  These are perfect for that use.  Expect to spend several days toying with them...Up on the spring, down on the dial setting...Down on both...What happens if you bring it way down, and dial the shock all the way up? Etc.  This process annoyed Julie.   I expected it...But (at the time) it felt a little like a PIA. Looking back, it wasn't that bad.

Regarding caster/alignment...
 I think the instructions might say an alignment is required after the install.  I felt like my car needed an alignment before the installation, so that was already on my list.  The alignment paperwork indicated that the tow was way off, but the other measurements were OK.  Based on what I was feeling with the car beforehand (Wandering, flinty or 'touchy' steering, Tramming on grooves/depressions), something was 'off' before I started.   At any rate, I'd definitely recommend getting an alignment done after such a big change.

Oh..And the rear air shocks...I did reduce the pressure in those to bring the rear down about 1/2 in. from where it was sitting before.  Julie and I are packing the trunk full of a week's vacation worth of stuff this weekend.  One of the (obviously) awesome things about the air shocks is that...After I pack the car I can check the rear ride height and just pump a little air in there to keep it where it needs to be.   BTW...I run very little pressure in the rear.  IIRC something like 40lbs.  (The Air Shocks have a min of 25psi and a max of something like 200psi.)
 
Let me know what you think of the High Jackers once you get them installed.  They are old school, but I've had a really good experience with 'em.  I'm curious whether you'll have the same experience.

Thanks again guys!   Take care.

-Tom
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #108 on: May 11, 2023, 09:13:06 PM »
Hello again TAC!

  I thought about posting this in a different TAC topic because this is sort of another 'road trip' post.  But, there's also a 'project update' aspect too...One of the things I wanted to accomplish on this road trip was to get my PTFB subframe connectors welded in.  I wanted to let you guys know if I noticed a difference between sub-frame connectors bolted in vs. welded.  OH...And I also got some significant miles on the new coil over set up.  I wanted to give an update on that too.

 So, here goes...

I installed PTFB subframe connectors after the first season with my 'finished' TTA.  We noticed a significant difference with these bars bolted in.  The improvement was noticeable even from the passenger seat. They helped tighten up the car and reduce the shake or shock of road impacts moving through the body.  The bolted in sub-frame connectors seemed to significantly reduce flex and the noises associated with that type of movement.    However, the intent was always to get them welded up, as my understanding was that welded is better than bolted.   Although they use nylon lock nuts, I had to check them and tighten them up regularly.  I could feel and hear when they were coming loose.  Additionally, there was one consistent noise from right behind and below the driver's door that I could not get rid of. That noise sounded like a 'clunk' to Julie.  From my seat, it was more of a 'popping' sound that could be reproduced by doing things like putting the DS tire up on my driveway entrance. It occurred with the door open or closed.   I'm convinced the noise is from the DS rocker panel sort of 'oil-canning'.

OK...So, there's not much to the actual project...
The weight needs to be on the car, so we put it up on blocks...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Then, we removed the sub-frame connectors so things could be cleaned up for welding...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Oh...We also removed the rear seats and put a wet beach towel down under the carpet to prevent melting dynomat, damaging the carpet or (maybe) catching something on fire.   
   
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The towel got pretty hot, but I'm not sure that it would've been enough heat transfer from the welding to cause problems...better safe than sorry.

Finally...My brother welded them in...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Alright, So...Did I notice a difference?

Yes.  It feels to me as though welding the connectors in made a noticeable improvement.  The car shutters less over bumps.  It feels more solid and it has eliminated that last annoying noise I've been trying to get rid of for 3 seasons now.   I wanted this car to be a cruiser, comfortable and quiet inside. No rattles, clunks or bangs.  I think the ride/feel and rattle/noise level is about as good as it gets for a second Gen approaching 250,000 Mi.   I'm super stoked.  Honestly, there appears to be a certain size, shape or type of pot-hole that results in just the right frequency of vibration to draw attention.  But the car handles around 90% of road defects with no problem, no cringy noises and no butt pucker inducing bangs.

So...Welded in vs. bolted in sub-frame connectors...Welded was noticeably better in my car.

Now, for the front coil-over update...

We drove from Philadelphia PA  to Nashville TN last week.  The trip included several hours of highway time + several hours of back road travel.  Including an aggressive drive up the Tail of the Dragon and a cruise along the Cherohala Skyway. 
 I am increasing my ride and handling rating on the front coil over conversion project.  Initially, I rated them at a 20% improvement in ride comfort/harshness...In my last post (after putting  couple hundred miles on 'em) My estimate went up to 30%...After this road trip I'm going to up that % improvement to 45-50%.  The car was really good on my last long trip.  It was awesome on this one.

Check out these pics from the Tail of the Dragon (US-129 in NC).
(BTW that little blue dot way back there is my brother in his C6 'Vette trying to keep up with us.)  ;-)

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickrd   

For the record, I don't think my TTA handles better than a C6 'Vette.  Here's proof. Chris did (eventually) catch up with us: 
TA + CRS C6 Tail of the Dragon 23 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The pics below are from the Cherohala Skyway.  It's right near the Tail of the Dragon and definitely worth the time if you are down near the Dragon. 

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

This time of year, at 5000+ feet of elevation the trees haven't bloomed.  It was cold up there!
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Further west...Southwest of Nashville TN we found the Natchez-Trace Parkway.  This road was beautiful.  It runs 400+ Miles all the way to Tupelo MS.  It's just one long National Park type road.  I'd recommend checking it out if you are headed that way.    We only drove 50Miles or so from Nashville to Columbia TN...

Nashville TN:
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The pics below show the typical picinic or overlook spots along this section of the Natchez-Trace Parkway
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Columbia Motor Alley, Columbia TN:
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

That's it!  I don't have any 'project' type plans for the car this Summer.  But, I'll let you know if any problems come up. Or, if I have a change of heart regarding the welded sub-frame connectors or coil-overs.  I may also let you know if we take it anywhere interesting again.

Thanks for checking in guys! Take care.

-Tom
 

« Last Edit: May 11, 2023, 10:26:44 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #109 on: May 12, 2023, 06:32:12 AM »
Great update Tom! Those shots of your car look so nice on that road. Where did you get them from? Was there a guy just taking pictures or something?

1976 Trans Am LS1 and much more...SOLD
1968 Camaro LSA, T56 Magnum, and much more...SOLD

Current Project: 1955 Nomad LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes and etc...

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #110 on: May 12, 2023, 02:46:11 PM »
Those pictures are amazing! Glad your car is starting to live up to all of your expectations.

I guess that settles it..... I'm going to weld my SFC in.....

With your experiences, I may even move to coil overs too.

Thanks for posting!
79 Trans am low buck LS swapped
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (waiting it's turn)
69 Dodge charger on late model charger chassis
49 Ford F1 on a 2003 Chevy ZR2 Chassis (current project)
Names, Luke. If I hear anyone telling me they're my father....

tajoe

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #111 on: May 12, 2023, 03:05:43 PM »
Great update Tom! Those shots of your car look so nice on that road. Where did you get them from? Was there a guy just taking pictures or something?
I believe he is a professional ponographer. All his pictures are always outstanding.
"You can sell an old man a young mans car,
but you can't sell a young man an old mans car"
                                       Bunkie Knudsen
<

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #112 on: May 12, 2023, 09:39:46 PM »
Great update Tom! Those shots of your car look so nice on that road. Where did you get them from? Was there a guy just taking pictures or something?
I believe he is a professional ponographer. All his pictures are always outstanding.

Hah!  I thought that said "professional pornographer".  I was gonna say..."I've dabbled, but I'm no pro. LOL."

Thanks for the compliments! 

Those pics of the car going down the road on the Tail of the Dragon are professional.  Along the 10 miles of the Dragon there are 3 or 4 spots where photogs are set up in pull-outs off to the side.  They take pics of every car going by.  The next day you can visit their website where pics are listed by time of day.  Check them out and  purchase pics if you want. 

Since you liked those...Here are a couple more...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

For those who don't know, the Tail of the Dragon is a section of US-129 near the NC/TN border.
It's an 11 mile section of road with 318 turns.  If you like driving it'll put a smile on your face the whole way.  You're only doing 25-30 MPH tops, but the turns are constant back and forth...Some drop you in like the Corkscrew at Laguna Seca, some have natural banking to them which really plants the car.   This was my second time driving it (My kid and I drove the other direction coming home from the Power Tour last summer.)
  It's a blast!

Here are a couple from when my kid and I ran it last summer on the way back from HRPT:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

If you want to hit that area...
We spent a night in Gatlinburg TN. It's Super Touristy, but there's lots to do and lots of options for lodging).  From there it's just a few miles to the 'Foothills Parkway'...A nice scenic park road, the parkway is a well maintained,  two lane road with limited access.  Maybe 25 Miles on the Foothills Pkwy and you end up at US-129 just a couple miles from the "Tail of the Dragon" section. We cruised South on US-129  Past Deals Gap (the end of the 'Dragon' section). Then it's just a few miles to the Cherohala Skyway...Another 'park' type road limited access two lane which climbs to a 5000+ Foot ridge.  I believe people drive the Cherohala Skyway aggresively too. But we didn't see any shenanigans on there.  We just cruised the Skyway.   Julie was such a good sport...Just hangin' on and not commenting while I pushed the car hard down the US-129...I didn't want to push my luck when we got to the Skyway.    The Cherohala Skyway is like 45 miles.  It ends up in Tapico Plains TN, about 20Miles south of Knoxville. 
With stops for shopping,  scenery, and wildlife fun (saw a couple bears)...the drive from Gatlinburg to Tapico Plains via these awesome back roads took us about 4 hours.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2023, 10:13:14 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #113 on: July 11, 2023, 10:43:17 PM »
Awe Man...Reading back over my last project update from May hurts.    Entering our 4th season with our 'finished' TTA, the car was really dialed in.
  Then...this happened:


Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

  A Jeep Renegade driver named Albert was in a rush. Albert thought I was turning right (when I was actually turning left). Albert decided he could save 2-3 valuable seconds if he crossed the double yellow line to pass me as ws executing my turn. Albert made his move to gun it and get into the opposing traffic lane just as I turned left.  The Jeep Renegade's steel bumper crunched my driver-side door.   That's all I'm sayin about "The Albert Incident" itself in this thread. It's just too soon for me. The Albert Incident is documented in my "OH NO!" post in the Lobby if you're curious.
http://www.transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=84825.0

So, our '81 TTA is back in the body shop.  Aside from the door, damage from the collision stretched from the left front fender to the left B-Pillar and over the roof to a dip at the rear corner of the passenger side T-Top.   Luckily, measurements from the rear frame rails to the front subframe seem to verify my driving impression and visual inspection...The shell itself does not appear to be significantly tweaked.  I honestly believe that the welded-in PTFB sub-frame connectors saved the car from ending up in a frame shop.

 Collision repair work itself is going OK.   The spots on the body shell that were tweaked popped back into place with a little massaging. The new door from Firebird Central seems to be of decent quality. It fit pretty well. And Classic Auto Painting in Mt. Juliet TN is working their magic...


Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Of course once you dig in, you might as well fix things like a little ding from season 1, when my battery tie-down busted allowing the battery to whack the rear quarter from the inside out.  And, the spot under the paint on the Passenger side B-Piller that cropped up in Season 3.  It was not a rust bubble, just some sort of funkiness in the body filler around the roof seam. Although the spot wasn't terrible, it was to us. And, it drove Julie nuts (Being right at her eye level on her side of the car).

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
 
And, headed into Season 4, I noticed a bubble forming on the lower, rear section of the left fender, a couple of inches forward of the driver's side door.  As is usually the case, the small bubble was indicative of a bigger rust spot brewing down below the paint.

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

 THEN, there are the spots I had no idea needed attention, but Classic Auto spotted when they went over the car with their more nuanced and experienced eye. For example, there was a small crack forming at the front edge of the Right fender. That crack would be making itself known to less kean eyed observers sooner rather than later. So, off comes the nose to correct that...


Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Now, we are weighing doing some pre-emptive work...
Since the car's already apart and all dusty from body work, maybe we should get into the lower rear section of the RIGHT fender. (I mean, both fenders were prepped the same way. If the left side has a problem there's a fair chance a similar problem will crop up on the right side at some point.)
 
BUT...I want my car back! This car IS my leisure time during the summer. We really miss it.  We've got to turn the corner toward laying the paint down in order to save my summer (and sanity).

To that end...
We are headed back to Nashville this weekend to pay up on some of the sweat equity we have to contribute in order for Classic Auto Painting to squeeze my old friend into the shop this summer.  The one upside to this whole situation is that I have an awesome and talented brother in the body and paint business. And,  I get to hang out with him a little extra this summer.  Even if I do leave his place looking like this every day...


Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Thanks for checking in everyone.

Take care.
-Tom
 

 


 
   
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

5th T/A

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #114 on: July 12, 2023, 06:52:09 AM »
Great progress, I am pretty impressed on how well that repo door looks. I think understand your mixture of pain and happiness. Having your car down during the summer sucks, on the other hand those spots on the lower front fenders are only going to get worse if you don't tend to them now.
1980 T/A with a Pontiac 461

Gone but not forgotten;
1973 T/A 455
1975 T/A 400
1978 T/A W72
1982 T/A cross fire injected

Two wheel toys;
2014 Harley Ultra Classic Limited
2013 Honda CB1100
2010 Yamaha Vmax
1982 Yamaha Seca 750

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #115 on: July 12, 2023, 07:08:01 AM »
Glad that they were able to squeeze you in Tom. Sounds like you'll be on the road sooner than later. There are worse places to be than Nashville.  :lol:

1976 Trans Am LS1 and much more...SOLD
1968 Camaro LSA, T56 Magnum, and much more...SOLD

Current Project: 1955 Nomad LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes and etc...

MNBob

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #116 on: July 13, 2023, 12:48:00 PM »
I am so sorry for you that this happened; our TA's are our babies!  I know how I would feel.

You are lucky to have a brother to help you and you have already made a lot of progress.  I know it will look great in the end.
1979 TATA Extreme TKO .64
Hedman elite; Pypes 2.5; Borla XS; MSD 6A; Performer intake; open scoop; Sniper QJ;  110 Amp Alt; 4 core radiator/Mark VIII fan; RobbMc mini starter; subframe connectors; solid body mounts; fiberglass rear springs; poly sway bar and link bushings; 81 master; D52’s; Blazer disks; 225/60 & 235/60 17's TrueContact's; relays for PW, PDL, lights; keyless entry

N PRGRES

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #117 on: July 18, 2023, 01:02:39 PM »
Sorry about the car.   :-(  I was curious about the cup holders, how painful was it to cut the console?
Dave

81 Trans Am w/73 400.

Nexus

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #118 on: July 19, 2023, 01:56:28 PM »
Wow

not sure what else to say!!

Sorry, you have to go through this!!
Charlie

79 Esprit but like many, it will be a T/A clone
(22 years and counting but still have her)
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=79648.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #119 on: August 17, 2023, 10:26:30 PM »
Hello TAC!

 A quick update on the collision repair and some other stuff that has come up...

 The car is pretty close to being ready for paint!
  That spot at the lower rear of the front fender has been repaired.  As was suspected, there is an inner support in that area and  the primer and bedliner treatment, applied after the fender was blasted didn't make it deep enough down in between those two panels.  With the outer panel cut away you could see an area where water was running down an untreated area of the inner support. At the bottom, where the inner and outer panels meet, the outer panel rusted through:

 Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

 I found a full patch panel for the rear section of the front fender (ChicagoMusclecarparts.com was the only place that had them.   But, when we opened things up it wasn't as bad as it looked so some clean-up, proper treatment of the inner panel, and a relatively small patch was all that was required...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

We had a close look at the same area on the passenger side. We ground back through the paint and skim coat of body filler, but everything looked OK.  We figured we were in it this deep, and the welder was already out so we dug all the way in... Chris cut a small hole in the outer panel to inspect the area between the inner brace and outer sheetmetal. On this side the primer and bedliner treatment made it deeper in between the two panels. So no significant rust had formed. But we did find a little bare metal in there.  We used Eastwood's internal frame coating, with its 360 degree spray tip to get some protection up in between the two panels.  Then closed it back up...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

 Unfortunately, we were not as lucky with the spot behind the driver's door.  When we pulled the left rear wheel flare off, it was obvious there was a problem.  And it just got uglier the deeper we went...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Ultimately, Chris cut all the rust out of the inner and outer panels, treated everything else inside the door jamb, b-pillar and rocker was treated with the Eastwood internal Frame Coating stuff, and closed back up...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Same as for the problem area on the front fenders, Chris performed some exploratory surgery on that area behind the passenger side flare.  Again, no significant rust on this side, but we took the opportunity to treat those inner and outer panels with the same Eastwood stuff.
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

So, as of today the body worked area's of the TA are all in primer, setting up for a final block sanding.  This weekend we will do that final block sanding on the reworked area's.  Assuming that goes smoothly (pun intended) the whole thing will get wet-sanded to 600 grit (I think).  Final cleaning, then it's into the booth for final prep, taping and paint!  Everything is getting painted except for the hood, decklid and front facia.
Hopefully, this time next week Chris will be laying the paint down.
 
Fingers crossed!  I finally might see the light at the end of the tunnel sometime in the next few days!

Even if everything goes well, it'll be a few weeks before it's all back together.  Although most of the little side jobs that have popped up have been addressed, the latest unexpected issue is another PIA job...

While working on cleaning up the T-Top weather strip rail area for paint, I was in close proximity to the headliner.  I noticed it had started to sag!   Right in the middle, above the back seat!  UGH!

 1/2 the interior is out already so we pulled the headliner out and found this...

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

It wasn't the expected adhesive failure causing the droop.  The actual ABS plastic backing board had warped!

So, I had to take the whole thing apart...
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

And now I'm waiting on a new backing board and foam so that I can re-make my headliner. awesome.
 Man...I really hope to get a glimpse at that light at the end of the tunnel soon!

Oh..One more thing...The TV in 'my' room down at my brother's led me to the free streaming service called Tubi.  Alongside some very nostalgic 80's and 90's TV shows I found the NHRA channel. Where they rerun TV coverage of NHRA events from the 60's, 70's and 80's.   While the Racers and commentators are fun to watch (Check these guys out):
Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The best thing is seeing those awesome 70's Pro-stock and Funny cars like Jungle Jim, the Blue Max and gems like this one:

Untitled by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

If you remember watching these guys as a little kid, check it out.  It's both fun and funny.

Thanks for checking in guys!

Take care.

-Tom 
 
 
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83354.0

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans-Am Project
« Reply #119 on: August 17, 2023, 10:26:30 PM »
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