Keyless Lock Install

[roadking77]

I recently installed a keyless lock in my 79 T/A. A brief write up, as its pretty simple to do and a nice modern upgrade.
I bought this from Ames, but I think you can buy direct from the company. The brand I used is 'Klassic Keyless'.
20250128_093511 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

20250128_093458 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
This is half the contents of the package as I have already installed the pass side. You get 2 lock actuators, 2 key fobs, the wiring harness, misc screws etc. All that is needed for the install.20250128_093357 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
20250128_093505 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Last pic is the actuator with the mounting bracket. The bracket is shipped loose and you need to attach it with supplied screws. These are left and right.
20250128_093430 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
This is the brain. It has 2 leads of 2 wires each that get routed into the door to the actuators. There are 3 other connections. One to the fuse box connected to a hot/battery terminal. The other is accessory the third connector is a ground to the body. All of this is spelled out in the instructions.

My car had factory power door locks. These need to be removed. Mine were riveted into place, I had to drill the rivets out and the old actuator came out easily. The existing wiring will not be used.

The new actuator is installed by removing the 2 bottom screws that hold the door latch into place. The mounting bracket slides under the latch with the install screws going through the large holes. 

NOTE: After initial installation when activated the lock function did not push the lock on the door latch far enough UP to lock the door. I had the new actuator as high as the bracket would allow. So, I overdrilled the 2 large holes, and drilled 2 new holes where the bracket mounts to the actuator itself. This made the new actuator sit higher in the door, thus pushing the lock latch higher resulting in locking the door.
20250126_133032 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
New power actuator installed inside of the door.

The hardest part of the installation was removing the pass side kick panel so that I had access to run the new wire through the boot into the door. Once I had access I attached a pull wire to the old door lock wire and pulled it from the door into the car. I attached the new wire to the pull wire and pulled that back into the door. That part was pretty easy. Hooking the new actuator up was simply attaching two wires with the supplied connectors.

If you do not have power going into the door and no boot, there is a small rubber boot that is supplied with the kit. There is also instructions on how to drill the hole in the door. I did not have to that part.

My kit had been sitting on my shelf for awhile and the batteries in the key fob had gone bad, so I had to replace those. Once everything was fresh it worked like a charm. All in all it was a pretty easy installation. The kit was easy to work with as well.

[roadking77]

One issue I have is integrating the new system with the existing power door lock switch that is stock to my car. I spoke with the owner of the company and he said this issue had come up so often that he upgraded the 'brain' of the system to include an easy hook up. Apparently mine is the old version and it will need a couple of wires soldered into place to make the old switch work. He is going to send me some info on how to do so although he explained it over the phone and it sounded simple enough. I would suggest if you have existing power locks and want to use this system to make sure its the latest version with the built in upgrade.

[b_hill_86]

Thanks for the info. Why was it necessary to remove the factory lock motors though? Can those not be made to work with a keyless entry system?

[Wallington]

I did with mine. Not an original power locks car, but sourced them and installed. No switches added to door trims, not the point of them. Hooked up to keyless entry remote and immobiliser. Added relay for power trunk using stock setup. I can imagine these little motors operate at a fraction of the current of GM, over how many decades, who knows. I figured at least aftermarket will be to suit original whereas each time these come out are a different size, shape and custom bracket. Whatever works.

[5th T/A]

I have no proof but agree with Ben. The original factory solenoid is huge, my first thought is they would draw a lot more current and possibly damage the circuitry of a modern keyless system. I would worry about the inductive kick from the original style, damaging the keyless electronics. No way to be sure without taking amperage readings of both original and new to compare. If you want to use the original type of actuators with a modern system I would suggest using relays to protect the keyless electronics. A similar comparison would be modern gear reduction starter motors against the old direct drive motors. The gear reduction starters are smaller, lighter, use less current and typically have more torque.

[5th T/A]

Question for Kerry, I am toying with the idea of doing the keyless system on my car. It’s been a while since I’ve pulled my door panels off. Do you think the actuators could be installed without removing the door glass and window regulators?

[roadking77]

I know enough about electricity to be dangerous and even less about auto electrics, So I cannot answer whether or not the original parts can be used. Like the window motors I have read that these things will last forever, but the driving force behind me using this system was because I had figured on buying new lock actuators. The ones in my 77 do not work and I wanted to make sure EVERYTHING worked on my current resto. SO, I figured IF I was buying new stuff, may as well get the remote. I will be calling the manufacture this afternoon I will ask that question.

5thTA-I still have the glass in my dr side door. I will check and see if this is possible. I would think off hand with the window in the up position that yes it would be possible. I will report back after taking a closer look.

[Wallington]

That's a good point. I don't even know what owners of up to 77 models use for the solenoid replacements. What I used was the very common 78-92 type, and it's of no use to earlier years.

[b_hill_86]

Maybe I’ll be the guinea pig and try to add keyless entry to my 77. My plan was to make a harness I could install between the factory wiring and the switch so it could easily be reversed if needed. Adding relays wouldn’t be difficult. The question will be, how long till I get around to it lol.

[Wallington]

Sounds like a great Sunday project. I'll check back in later to see how it went!

[N PRGRES]

How long are the wires from the actuator to the control box?  I was thinking of maybe putting the box in the center console area

[tinpusher]

Thanks Roadking, great pics  and write up. I bought a universal kit last year and you got me motivated to do something with it. Nice job.

[roadking77]

I will have to check but you should be able to put the main controller in the console area. The wire for the pass side is plenty long enough, I will lay it out in my car tomorrow when Im in the shop and check the dr side. You may have to add to the power wire though. Still should be doable.

[wheels78ta]

This is the system I am considering.  It has an alarm system and keyless entry. 

And you can use your stock power door locks.  Pretty much a basic system without the high cost as some of the others out there.

https://screamingchicken.com/1970-81-camaro-firebird-alarm-with-2-way-extended-range-remote/

[roadking77]

That one looks pretty nice and its an alarm with tracking.

[Wallington]

A trigger switch like door use is handy for hood, especially being completely open to the public, when doors locked and alarms on. A mercury switch would also work. Doesn't need to be visible, somewhere that moves with the slightest of hood opening, rear of hinges even. I have a few of the old school hood lock kits too, but instead of the chunky locking plate attached to hood, I looked at a cleaner install that interrupts the latch opening instead. Looked and planned, but not done. Even powdercoated the plated parts black. My central locking kit was partially wired up, was planning to replace an early immobiliser set-up that featured both instead of 2 remotes, and car was incomplete at the time, no really. But no alarm option. I guess it could hook up to horn for simple attention getting.

[roadking77]

Just a thought but could you use a trunk light in the hood as well. Wire it up to the alarm?

Honestly, I dont worry about alarms in cars (or motorcycles), mine are insured pretty good. I know it would be a tough pill to swallow if something were to happen but I figure if someone really wants it bad enough they are going to get it. I just read on another forum that a Model A was stolen out of a locked garage in the middle of the night. That would surely suck.

[N PRGRES]

Car alarms are annoying but if that's what you want then go for it.  Not sure when this would make sense?  No one really pays attention to them and since our hoods don't lock, it could be disarmed in minutes.

[rkellerjr]

Very cool to know, I just might have to upgrade

[5th T/A]

Dave, I agree car alarms are annoying and almost nobody pays attention to them. Alarm or no alarm, I like the idea of keyless remote entry door locks. While there s no such thing as a theft proof car, or theft proof anything. Making it more difficult to steal is never a bad idea. I have read the majority of stollen cars aren’t even locked. I know the doors to my home could easily be kicked open, but I lock them anyway. I have a friend with three old muscle cars, when ever he parks one out of his site he pulls the coil wire. Could the cars be easily stolen with a flatbed truck, absolutely. But it will take more than a couple jumper wires to drive the car away.

[Wallington]

My keyless set-up was zero security background, it was trying to find a keyhole on perfect paint.

[N PRGRES]

Dave, I agree car alarms are annoying and almost nobody pays attention to them. Alarm or no alarm, I like the idea of keyless remote entry door locks. While there s no such thing as a theft proof car, or theft proof anything. Making it more difficult to steal is never a bad idea. I have read the majority of stollen cars aren’t even locked. I know the doors to my home could easily be kicked open, but I lock them anyway. I have a friend with three old muscle cars, when ever he parks one out of his site he pulls the coil wire. Could the cars be easily stolen with a flatbed truck, absolutely. But it will take more than a couple jumper wires to drive the car away.

I do like the keyless option and the coil wire is a good idea.  Thieves don't want to spend alot of time trying to steal something, so I suppose anything that makes them spend more time, the better