Tilt Column Rebuild

[wheels78ta]

I've completed resizing all the pictures from the Tilt Column rebuild.  There are a lot of pics so bear with me while I get this thread rolling.  It's going to take me a few hours to complete.  Please wait for comments/questions after it's done.

I don't use a third party photo site so I won't be able to comment after each picture.....therefore, I will put a number at the top left corner of each picture pertaining to any statement/description with the same number.  I will try to keep it to 4-5 pics per post.

All of the rebuild can be done while it is installed in the car.  I needed to do some fabrication and use both the non-tilt and tilt to make one complete tilt column.  Mainly because of the rust issues on the tilt column tubes.

And away we go.................................

1. These are the tools I needed to do the rebuild, including the flyswatter.

2. Typical front view of the steering wheel.

3. Removing the horn button is pretty simple.  Just work around the edges with your fingers and it will pop off.

4. With the horn button removed.  Yes....there are only 5 screws for the steering wheel and there should be 6.

 

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5. Remove the screws with a 1/8" allen wrench.  A couple of mine were getting wallered out so I bought a new set.

6. To get the horn adapter/switch out.....you need to remove this snap ring (this helps to keep the nut from backing out).....and

7. this nut.  I used a 22mm socket to remove the nut.

8. The horn adapter/switch has a protruding notch that will only allow it to go in one way.

9. Horn adapter/switch removed.

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10. I used a puller to remove the steering hub.

11. Hub removed

12. The horn contact is spring loaded and needs to be removed at this step.  Or you can go looking around for it on the floor somewhere because it comes out very easily and will roll a good distance.  I am not claiming it will put your eye out...

13. Just twist the black collar to the left and pull it out.....along with the spring.

14. Remove the locking plate cover using a flathead screwdriver.  Some earlier styles had 3 screws.

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15. The all illusive locking plate.  Not a big deal but I learned the hard way it can be a little PITA.  But first.......

16. I removed the hazard switch using a small phillips head screwdriver.  You can do this later but I chose to do it now.  Plus it had a little bit of grease on it.  Ooops..

17. Hazard switch removed.  Notice the spring.

18. Back to the locking plate....This is the snap ring that holds it in place.

19. They make a tool to help in removing the locking plate.  There are videos on how to make your own tool but I just happen to have 2 of these.  Because I bought one a few years ago and forgot that I bought one and bought another one by mistake.  It's called "some timers disease".

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20. The lock plate tool will push the lock plate towards the spring and give you enough room to use some snap ring pliers and pull the snap ring towards you.  I moved the lock ring onto the tool shaft that threads onto the end of the steering shaft.  Slowly release the lock plate tool and remove the tool off of the steering shaft. 

21. I open the snap ring and move it onto the tool shaft.  It can stay there until ready to reassemble.

22. This is the canceling cam.  It moves the turn signal lever back to it's original position when the steering wheel is turned back to straight.

23. There are two types of canceling cams for the steering columns.  The one on the left is for the Tilt column and the one on the right is for the non-tilt column.

24.  Notice the difference between the two cams.  The tilt cam has a shorter distance between the cam notches.  The non-tilt has more space between them.

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25. Remove the upper bearing preload spring.

26. Remove this screw and remove the turn signal lever.  To access the 3rd screw on the turn signal switch....turn the switch clockwise (you'll feel a click) as if you were making a right hand turn to expose it.

27. At this time you can use a small crescent wrench and remove the tilt lever.

28. Remove the four bolts that hold the steering support bracket.

29. You can remove the turn signal switch connection by pulling it from the slots that hold it on, on each end.

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30. After the steering support bracket is removed....you can remove the turn signal switch wire protector by sliding it out and away from the column.

31. Turn signal wire protector.

32. Another pic of wire protector because I forgot to delete one of the pics.

33. I taped the wires to make it a little bit easier to pull through the column.

34. Since you moved the turn signal switch to a right hand turn....it exposed the 3rd screw.  Remove these 3 screws. 

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35. Now that the 3 screws are removed....you might be able to pull the turn signal switch out of the column.  If it gets caught on something inside the column you can wait and remove it when another section is removed from the column.  A lot of times it can be pulled through.  But not a big deal in the long run.  When you are reassembling the column and want to pull this piece through from the front......this is where the flyswatter comes in handy.....I run the flyswatter end through the back of the column (to the front) and tape the switch connector to the end of the flyswatter and slowly/carefully pull it through.  It has worked every time.  It still may get caught on some edge inside the column but the flyswatter is stiff enough that I was able to work it through.

36. This is the key warning buzzer switch.

37. Use a pair of needle nosed pliers and remove it.  If the metal suppression spring does not come out with it you can remove it with the pliers.

38. Key warning buzzer switch removed.

39. For 1978 and older columns.....there is a tab that needs to be pushed in to remove the ignition cylinder.  For 1979 and later there is a small screw that holds the cylinder in it's place.

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40. Use a flat head screwdriver and push in on this tab.

41. Pull on the cylinder and it will come out.

42. Lock cylinder completely out.

43. To remove the next section of column....remove these three screws.

44. Remove the next section.

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45. If the turn signal switch was a pain to pull through earlier, this section removed will make it a lot easier.

46. Turn signal switch removed.

47. Now to remove the tension spring for the tilt column.  This is what makes the tilt section go up when you pull the tilt lever.  It is under a bit of pressure so make sure you remove this now.  I used a phillips head screwdriver and some muscle.  You need to push the cap in and turn counterclockwise to remove.

48. Tension spring removed.

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49. Time to remove the steering column ignition actuator assembly.

50. Use a 1/4" socket and remove screw.

51. I just moved the spring arm out of the way and replaced the screw back into it's hole.

52. Roll the spring arm to the side.

53. I used a flat head screwdriver and removed this tiny little snap ring.

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54. Tiny little snap ring.  Very hard to find if you drop it and it bounces into nowhere land.

55. Take a flat head screwdriver and push this rod through the gear.  It will probably fall out after about 1/2" in.

56. Gear rod.

57. Use a small flat head screwdriver and start to pry up on the gear.

58. It will lift straight up.

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59. Gear completely out.

60. This spring is attached under the steering wheel lock rod.

61. Remove from the rod.

62. Spring removed.

63. Pull the rod out.

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64. Rod removed.

65. I'll just call this the shield. 

66. Rotate it forward and it will come out.

67. Shield removed.

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68. Pivot pins

69. There is a special tool to remove the pivot pins but I compromised and found a long 5/32" bolt that worked just fine.

70. I used a pair of wire cutters and a hammer and slowly tapped the pivot pin out.

71. Half way there.

72. Pivot pin is out.  Do the same for the other side.

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73. Reinstall the tilt lever.....you do not need to use a wrench to tighten it down.  Just thread it in until it is snug. 

74. Getting ready to remove the bearing preload cup.

75. I used a small scribe and removed the preload cup.

76. Bearing preload cup removed.

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77. I also used the scribe to remove the upper bearing race.

78. Upper bearing race removed.

79. The upper bearing was loose and came out with a little help.  There is also a similar bearing (lower bearing) set up on the other side.  They should be locked into place but if the bearing cage is damaged it will come out like this.

80. Bearing removed.  Notice the small notch at the top?....It is broken which caused the balls to fall out during disassembly.

81. Broken section on the cage.  The reason the balls are still there is because I had put lithium grease on the bearing assembly to keep them from going everywhere.

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82. Now that the flange, bearing and race are removed....pull the tilt lever toward you and slowly remove that tilt section out.  There is another bearing and race on the other side....The race should stay on the shaft but if that bearing is in bad shape the little balls will fall to the floor and that's when the dirty words start to flow.  It's best to do this step over a towel so the balls don't scatter across the floor.  If the bearing cages are in good shape you'll be able to put the balls back where they belong.  More on that later.

82a.  Also.....Once this tilt section is removed you can get to the 4 bolts that are notorious for coming loose.  The shaft has already been removed but not necessary to tighten these bolts.  You can use an E8 socket or 1/4" 6 point socket or 6mm 6 point socket.  I used red loctite on the threads.

83. This is one of the cages and it is missing pieces.  That's why the balls fell out during disassembly.

84. This is the ring that the cage and balls sit in.  That small lip (arrow) is where the inside of the bearing seats in the tilt section.  If it comes unseated then the bearing is probably bad and will need replaced.

85. This is how it looks before it's placed into the tilt section.  It has to be pressed into the tilt section.  More on that coming up.

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86. This is the side towards the steering wheel.  Also known as the upper bearing side.  The bottom of the bearing cage (arrow) sits in that small groove.  With the cage and ball bearings removed you can take a flat head screwdriver, from either side, and tap out the bearing ring.

87. You can press in, I used a socket extension and hammer, the complete bearing assembly.  Every time I tried the balls would pop out when tapping it in with the hammer so I chose to tap in the bearing ring with the cage only.  Then you can install the balls in their spots. 

88. You can use a small flat head screwdriver or the tip of you finger.  They went in very easy.

89. Finished.  Now the bearing should be set inside the ring and not fall out.

90. Do the same thing for the other side.  Also known as the lower bearing side.

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91. Note that this is before replacing the bearing sets.......This is the Rack Actuator Tension Spring.  It will fall out and if you're not paying attention it will also bounce in different directions. 

92. Removed

93. This is what the Ignition Switch Rack Gear presses against.

94. Just another angle.

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95. The lower bearing is also damaged and will be replaced.  Notice: If the steering knuckle sphere is bad, this is a good time to replace it.  There is a video on how to do it and it worked very well.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sx3pX3dvq1s

96. Lower bearing removed.

97. Lower bearing race.

98. Slide the bearing race off the shaft.

99. Bearing race removed.

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100. Ignition switch rack gear.  Sometimes, when removing the bearing housing assembly, this part will fall out of place and hit the floor.

101. Removed

102. This is the post that the rack gear will sit on.

103. Shaft removed.  Again, not necessary to do this rebuild.  I just moved it out of the way for the next steps.

104. Tilt housing support.

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105. To get to the ignition actuator rod.....remove these 5/16" bolts on the ignition switch.

106. Roll the ignition switch back and you'll see where the actuator rod goes into the opening.

107. Opening for the actuator rod.

108. Now you can remove the actuator rod.

109. Actuator rod removed.

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110. In reference to picture 102.

111. How the Rack Gear sits on the actuator rod when installed inside the housing.

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113. The different types of lock plates and covers used in some of the tilt columns.  The lower set is what is used in my tilt column.

114. Mine sits deeper onto the steering shaft.

115. My tilt locking plate is on the lower left.  You can see how deeper it is compared to the other two lock plates.

116. Underside view.

117. Lock plate covers.  Mine is the lower left and is similar to the lower right.  The top cover uses 3 screws and is used on older tilt columns.

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118. These are the different size preload springs used in these tilt column.  I found out the hard way that with the deeper lock plate that I had needed to use the shorter spring.  It only cost me a cancel cam.

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This rebuild was on my 1978 Y88.

For the newer tilt columns.....1979-1981 that has the dimmer switch in the column will be just a bit different.  Here is a link that will pretty much explain everything I just did plus the dimmer switch.

https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf

I hope this helps anyone that wants or needs to get into their tilt column and brings you great joy in knowing that it really isn't that hard to do when you have the steps to get you there.

Thanks for your patience....and comment or ask questions and I'll do my best to get you through it.

[roadking77]

Very good write up. I did mine a few years ago and documented each step with a pic. Also I found it usefull to keep a very clean bench and lay each piece out in order that it comes off the column. Helps a great deal with re-assembly.