Author Topic: 1978 Y88 Restoration....Exhaust (Read 32486 times)

5th T/A · « **Reply #160 on:** April 03, 2023, 12:24:27 PM »

Quote from: wheels78ta on March 27, 2023, 10:03:24 AM

I bought an Eagles "Hotel California" tape, about 3 years ago, and used it to test the unit. Found out that the tape foam is shot and wouldn't work. So I just bought a Kansas "Dust in the Wind" tape that stated in the ad it was refurbished.....and it works.
I'll get the 8 track repair kit and hope to fix the Eagles tape.

Congratulations on getting your eight track to work. A long time ago I repaired a lot of damaged 8 track cartridges. I used to see them lying on the ground at stop lights. I would cut out the damaged area (stretched tape) and splice the tape back together with a 1/4" magnetic tape splicer. They used to be readily available, today maybe you can find a used one. In a pinch you could use a razor blade and scotch tape, not as easy, but it will work. Its also important to have the right tension on the tape in the cartridge, kind of a trial and error method until you have done it a few times.

I know it's dated technology, but in their day, I thought eight tracks were pretty good. Probably nobody else will know what I am talking about, but I installed a quadraphonic 8 track tape player in my 73 TA, back in 1973. I have fond memories of listening to Santana Abraxas, nice spatial sound. A fad that came and went pretty quickly and it seemed like a limited choice of albums were available.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #161 on:** April 24, 2023, 05:47:02 PM »

I'm in the process of cleaning up/repairing all of the wiring harnesses.

The one I'm working on now is the wiring that has the gray convoluted tubing protecting it. The diagram below has the junction circled in yellow.

1. 16 Blk Fusible Link.....from that junction to 12 Red to the bulkhead connector. (No fusible link)
2. 18 GRN DK Fusible Link......from that junction to 14 Red/Blk to the bulkhead connector. (Has fusible link...with splices...not connected)

Does anyone have a pic of a similar harness that would show the actual set-up?

wheels78ta · « **Reply #162 on:** July 31, 2023, 10:05:41 PM »

I know it's been awhile since the last post. For the past 3 months we've been replacing about 200 feet of wood on the pergola and decks. Plus some shed refurbishing and lots of painting and staining.

Can anyone answer the previous question about the wiring?

I'm taking the engine down to Oklahoma, Len Williams Machine Shop, Wednesday. He's going to "Wake Up" the 400, so to speak. We've talked about the plans on what I'd like to have done. He's going to set it up like one of his 400 Long Blocks that he sells on his site. He's been doing pontiac engines for decades and knows his stuff.

http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/400_Long_Block.html

Keeping the 6X heads, manifold and carburetor. The heads and carburetor will be rebuilt to match the new set up.

When all is said and done the 400 should be cranking out around 385 HP and 435 Lb Torque.

Yes.....I would love to have more horsepower.....who wouldn't? But more HP would mean different heads, manifold, etc. And I want to keep it stock looking. Plus the extra HP would get me in more trouble than I need. Tee Hee.

Now that a lot of the at home repairs are done I'm going to start the body work on the Y88. Then paint. Hoping to have it all done by next spring. Engine should be done by then depending on parts.

Once the body work starts I'll have plenty of pics available for critique. Be gentle.

Back to the wiring issue. If anyone has any pics or more info on the wiring please post it up.

kentucky yeti · « **Reply #163 on:** August 03, 2023, 07:03:50 AM »

I can't help with the wiring. I solved my '69 Firebird issues last year- I bought a headlight-to-taillight American Autowire harness and all my little gremlins left at the same time. Multiple splices over the past 53 years as well as wiring insulation degradation made for some weird lighting and gauge operation.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #164 on:** August 18, 2023, 12:07:48 PM »

Quote from: kentucky yeti on August 03, 2023, 07:03:50 AM

I can't help with the wiring. I solved my '69 Firebird issues last year- I bought a headlight-to-taillight American Autowire harness and all my little gremlins left at the same time. Multiple splices over the past 53 years as well as wiring insulation degradation made for some weird lighting and gauge operation.

Well.....actually, you did help on the wiring.......I'm buying that section of the engine harness to replace the old. Better safe than sorry.

I'm also going to replace the stock exhaust manifold for the Ram Air manifolds. The one thing I see with the Ram Air manifolds is they only have four holes for installing compared to six with the originals.

« **Reply #164 on:** August 18, 2023, 12:07:48 PM »

b_hill_86 · « **Reply #165 on:** August 18, 2023, 04:33:12 PM »

Where did you find them? I thought they were near impossible to find now

wheels78ta · « **Reply #166 on:** August 18, 2023, 09:55:48 PM »

If you're referring to the exhaust manifolds......

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/factory-headers/d-port-head.html

b_hill_86 · « **Reply #167 on:** August 19, 2023, 12:42:57 PM »

I was, thanks. I thought they disappeared.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #168 on:** August 30, 2023, 08:29:36 PM »

Before tearing down the Y88 for restore.......I tested the power window motors and the door lock actuators.

Passenger side window motor was slow going up or down.

Driver side power door lock actuator would only lock. Found out why today.

It seems the factory missed the indents for drilling the holes for the actuator. By about an inch.

The first pic shows where the top of the actuator would hit the inside of the door and make it hard for it to unlock.

So I welded up the holes and drilled where the indents are.

After I moved it to where it should be.....the actuator is now clear of any obstacles.

All looks better now.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #169 on:** August 30, 2023, 08:30:27 PM »

More.

roadking77 · « **Reply #170 on:** August 31, 2023, 05:54:28 AM »

Nice job. Funny how they missed the target by that much!

wheels78ta · « **Reply #171 on:** October 15, 2023, 05:53:52 PM »

According to the Vacuum line routing diagram.........and from what was removed on the engine......there are two tees in the run.

One of the tees is a hard plastic and white.....The other tee is metal. Is the metal one a replacement or is it correct?

wheels78ta · « **Reply #172 on:** October 29, 2023, 11:03:56 AM »

There is a vacuum hose reducer in one of the vacuum hose routes.

It doesn't show up on any of the vacuum diagrams.

Where does it hook up to?

wheels78ta · « **Reply #173 on:** November 16, 2023, 08:44:49 PM »

Thanks for the input Ben. I took a screenshot of this, because I won't remember where it is on here, and put in my Vacuum Hose folder.

I talked with the engine builder and he is hoping to have it done by end of year. I found a shop that is going to do the flywheel resurfacing. It should be done in 2 weeks. Then it goes to the builder.

Also.....pics coming soon of parts cleaning and painting.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #174 on:** November 17, 2023, 04:29:56 PM »

Looks like that is my last option. Find someone with an original setup and ask for picks of those areas you mentioned.

Thanks Ben.

It is possible that the reducer was installed for a splice.....maybe they didn't have any extra hose laying around and found that piece to make one hose. But I see two different size hoses so I'm leaning toward it actually being correct somewhere in the run.

***Does anybody here, or someone you know, have a 1978 Trans Am 400 4 speed that is untouched in the vacuum line department.***

I'm not sure if it matters whether it was W72 optioned or not.

« **Reply #174 on:** November 17, 2023, 04:29:56 PM »

wheels78ta · « **Reply #175 on:** November 17, 2023, 09:58:56 PM »

I have a couple of diagrams of the 1978 400 4 speed and it only shows the two tee sections. No reducer in the Vacuum line from the DS-TVV to the distributor. If that is where it should be.

Ben....do you have a pic of the GM diagram showing this reducer on the distributor vacuum line? This is one of the diagrams I have.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #176 on:** November 24, 2023, 12:13:17 PM »

Kerry (roadking77) and I sometimes work on cleaning and painting identical parts such as brackets and pulleys, fan blade and clutch etc.
I wont post any of those from this side because they look exactly like Kerry's. Excellent job.

But I did get the hood hinges and seat frames done so here they are:

wheels78ta · « **Reply #177 on:** November 24, 2023, 12:35:51 PM »

Seat Tracks

wheels78ta · « **Reply #178 on:** November 24, 2023, 12:49:15 PM »

Front Seat bottoms

wheels78ta · « **Reply #179 on:** November 24, 2023, 12:59:04 PM »

Front seat backs........

It is common for the driver front seat to have a lean, on the left side, at least from what I've experienced. And I found part of that problem. I can't find the pics of the seat back after the foam was removed but there really wasn't any rust, very minimal if any.

That section of the seat was warped out of position because of that crack in the metal. Once I got a few tack welds in place the seat back is no longer leaning back. This crack usually happens about 4 inches below the seat belt retainer bracket.

5th T/A · « **Reply #180 on:** November 24, 2023, 03:58:40 PM »

Very nice work on on the hinges, seat tracks and seat assemblies! I am always impressed when people put a lot of work in making something perfect, especially on things that are hidden from view when reassembled.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #181 on:** November 24, 2023, 04:25:56 PM »

Thank you.

I'm retired which gives me a lot of time to do these things. I'm not a perfectionist by any means but sometimes I try.

Rear upper seat.........Not sure what the black rope was for.

roadking77 · « **Reply #182 on:** November 25, 2023, 08:51:47 AM »

Nice work on those parts. I have been staring at my hinges on the shelf for years now. Recently have been thinking it may be time to get to work on them, BUT I really want to get my motor finished up and running before I sidetrack myself.
I am with you on getting everything as nice as possible, seen or not. Good suggestion on the broken seat back, will have to look at mine closely when the time comes. Looks like you re-used the seat wires. No idea what mine look like but I bought new for my 77 from someone on here years ago.

Nexus · « **Reply #183 on:** November 25, 2023, 05:59:48 PM »

Those turned out great

Nice work!!

wheels78ta · « **Reply #184 on:** November 25, 2023, 07:11:57 PM »

Quote from: Wallington on November 25, 2023, 04:24:33 AM

Did you get a chance to measure the nylon bushes in the seats where they hinge?

Appears the reducer orifice valve is only on the Auto models. Diagram was labelled incorrectly.

I got the measurements today.....

« **Reply #184 on:** November 25, 2023, 07:11:57 PM »

wheels78ta · « **Reply #185 on:** December 05, 2023, 01:49:12 PM »

After reading through FormTA's thread on his spoilers not holding their shape I decided to bring mine in from the attic and check them out.

Some of my spoiler pieces were in a box labeled "Spoilers". I opened it up and look what I found.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #186 on:** December 05, 2023, 01:52:45 PM »

I'll be adding two more front pieces, from roadking77. They should be here Thursday. Thanks Kerry.

I guess I'll have some extras to clean up and keep on the parts shelf.

FormTA · « **Reply #187 on:** December 05, 2023, 04:20:12 PM »

Glad I could help! If you're interested in letting a piece go. I am in need of pretty much all window trim for my formula so anything will help. If not no biggie as I'm not to that project yet. Really glad you found them though!!

b_hill_86 · « **Reply #188 on:** December 05, 2023, 06:35:12 PM »

Well he had his name on a set I was going to send to him once I figured out how to package it appropriately but since he found his I have a rear set if you’re interested Luke. I’d have brought it with me the other day had I known lol.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #189 on:** December 06, 2023, 11:29:23 AM »

Quote from: FormTA on December 05, 2023, 04:20:12 PM

Glad I could help! If you're interested in letting a piece go. I am in need of pretty much all window trim for my formula so anything will help. If not no biggie as I'm not to that project yet. Really glad you found them though!!

I don't need all of these trim pieces. I'd be happy to help. If you and Brian get something worked out I can help with the rest.

FormTA · « **Reply #190 on:** December 06, 2023, 04:16:11 PM »

Man, that looks great! Contaminants can ruin a man day really quickly!

wheels78ta · « **Reply #191 on:** January 13, 2024, 10:52:32 AM »

Regarding the R.etard Delay Orifice. Research says it is only used on the automatic engines. So I will not be using it on the 4 speed. It will be a straight through hose to the distributor.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #192 on:** January 13, 2024, 10:56:54 AM »

My engine rebuilder, Len Williams, called and said the engine is done. We'll head down next week to pick it up. Pics to follow.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #193 on:** January 25, 2024, 05:51:50 PM »

Engine is back home.

It's set up for 400-425 HP. Same as his site for the 400 Long block. http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/400_Long_Block.html

I'll get the valve covers polished in the next few days.

Wallington · « **Reply #194 on:** January 26, 2024, 12:45:48 AM »

Nice stout figure for a street cruiser. Headers or cast manifolds? Any idea of torque rating?

wheels78ta · « **Reply #195 on:** January 26, 2024, 08:54:39 AM »

Torque rating is around 425 lb-ft.

I'm going to use the Ram Air II headers and exhaust from Ram Air Restoration.

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/factory-headers/rm-1-os-dport-ram-air-factory-headers-pair-for-64-67-gto-lm-73-79-lm-71-79-cat-granville-all-g-body-with-poncho-v8-2153.html

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/complete-exhaust-systems/uesys-1-ultimate-exhaust-system-2-5-with-x-over.html

scarebird · « **Reply #196 on:** January 26, 2024, 01:42:22 PM »

Going to be pretty loud.

wheels78ta · « **Reply #197 on:** January 27, 2024, 04:25:44 PM »

School me.......How loud is "pretty loud". I do not want a very loud exhaust. If their exhaust system is too loud then I'll have one custom made with quieter mufflers.

All input is very appreciated.

tajoe · « **Reply #198 on:** January 27, 2024, 05:18:42 PM »

Quote from: wheels78ta on January 26, 2024, 08:54:39 AM

Torque rating is around 425 lb-ft.

I'm going to use the Ram Air II headers and exhaust from Ram Air Restoration.

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/factory-headers/rm-1-os-dport-ram-air-factory-headers-pair-for-64-67-gto-lm-73-79-lm-71-79-cat-granville-all-g-body-with-poncho-v8-2153.html

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/pontiac/complete-exhaust-systems/uesys-1-ultimate-exhaust-system-2-5-with-x-over.html

Just curious why these are labeled as RAII manifolds? RAII is 68 round port. The photo of the manifolds are D port. On the photo of the pipes, it shows a round port gasket, and a log manifold D port gasket. With your 6X heads, aren't you using RAIII D port manifolds?
By the way, been away for a while, and looks like you're making good progress. Nice.

scarebird · « **Reply #199 on:** January 27, 2024, 05:44:38 PM »

Those short box mufflers are pretty loud and may not flow that great.

I am running 17749 Dynomax (Formerly "Hemi") mufflers on that setup shown - X pipe and full tailpipes. Not as quiet but a hell of a lot better than Dronemasters on sounds and flow.

https://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/exhaust.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17749?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands%20%7C%20D&utm_term=4581733674156216&utm_content=GSAPI%205ba263233d6fc

https://youtu.be/9RDBMtxG7Fc

« **Reply #199 on:** January 27, 2024, 05:44:38 PM »

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Author Topic: 1978 Y88 Restoration....Exhaust (Read 32486 times)