Rag Joint Replacement

[Bill Boyle]

After spending years restoring my 79 TA I am now carefully looking at its drivability. As the original owner of my L78-W72 4 speed TA, I remember how it drove when new and how it performed when new while auto crossing.  With only 48K on the suspension and steering linkage, I soon released that it was time, not necessarily wear and tear that caused a very noticeable sloppiness in the car's steering.  The steering had always been tight and responsive. It wasn't that way now.  Because of my experience with getting many new parts during the restoration, I needed to get all my "ducks in a row" before taking on the fix of the steering.  So, out of precaution, I ordered and or borrowed all the tools and parts necessary to remove and replace the steering box as well as the "rag joint" coupling. 

Once everything was on hand, I began to think deeply about the sloppy steering. With so few miles on the car, I began to believe it was the "rag joint" coupling that was bad not the coupling and the steering gear box.  With the "rag joint" coupling in focus, I removed the shaft and disconnected the shaft from the steering column and the steering gear box.  On the work bench I found that the "rag joint" had seen better days and was in need of replacement.  To remove the "rag joint" required the removal of the rivets that held the joint together.  The rivets were drilled out and cut off with a metal cutting wheel mounted in a Dremel.  The replacement "rag joint" mounted to the shaft with metric bolts and nuts and all bolts were torqued to spec.

The shaft with new coupling was then installed on the car and tested.  Happily, I was correct.  The steering gear box was fine and the culprit was simply a bad "rag joint." 

The replacement steering gear box was returned to the vendor (RockAuto.com) and I received a refund but for $6.58 the cost of return shipping.  I love when a plan comes together.   

[b_hill_86]

Nice! This is on my list of things to do. You probably saved yourself headache with the steering box too if it was a rebuilt. I bought one from there to replace my leaky and “worn” box. The new one never worked right and wasn’t much tighter than my old one. I ended up returning it and I resealed my old box myself. Good as new. Almost 

[79GoldnTan]

 Same with my car. I would like to replace but I have limited time due to working to much and not sure of process to replace. I thought you could slide the steering shaft up towards the firewall but mine won't budge.

[Warren Seale]

Original owner here as well.  In noticed sloppiness at about the same mileage that you have.  However, the fix for me was to tighten the adjustment nut on the steering box.  I have 120000 on the car now.

[b_hill_86]

Original owner here as well.  In noticed sloppiness at about the same mileage that you have.  However, the fix for me was to tighten the adjustment nut on the steering box.  I have 120000 on the car now.

If I remember right, isn’t that to be only adjusted like an eighth of a turn or less at a time to avoid causing damage by over adjusting?

[Warren Seale]

Original owner here as well.  In noticed sloppiness at about the same mileage that you have.  However, the fix for me was to tighten the adjustment nut on the steering box.  I have 120000 on the car now.

If I remember right, isn’t that to be only adjusted like an eighth of a turn or less at a time to avoid causing damage by over adjusting?

Correct.  You don't want to overtighten it or it will bind up and prevent the steering from straightening on it's own when you are rolling.  Just tighten it enough to get a noticable improvement.  It doesn't take much of a turn to make a difference.

[Bill Boyle]

I have found, over 42 years of TA ownership, that sticking with original equipment, if possible, is the better solution. This of course isn't always possible. Sometimes a part is shot and must be replaced.  With my original steering gear box, it wasn't leaking a drop, looked almost new on the outside and always gave me good steering response when SCCA auto crossing.  I did consider the "adjustment" but put that thought aside.  With so few miles on the car and all of the TLC given it over the years, I strongly suspected the rubber in the rag joint. Rubber simply breaks down with time. 

I was talking with my wife about things that seem to be new yet the years have slipped by.  Example:  The tread on my tires--hardly any mileage at all.  The car has been garaged and worked on for over 10 years.  To me it seems that I just put them on. I may have to replace them again despite the lack of mileage because rubber breaks down.  Plastic is worse especially when exposed to sunlight continually.  Most important to remember:  Nothing stays the same.