77TA Resto Reboot - a long journey to an LS swap

[stros]

Have you had a chance to calculate your mileage?

I haven’t paid much attention to the MPGs.  I’ll track it next time I fill it up.  I have 3500 miles on the LS3 now.

[stros]

http://www.transamcountry.com/community/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=83837.0;attach=7362;image

Is your rear bumper cover still the rubber type? I noticed the 499735 strip installed. My 78 bumper cover was close to immaculate but had slight ripples or waves between each hole where riveted. So I've also sourced a couple of the strips to clamp it all down. Not original, don't care. The jacking brackets often had me thinking too. Originality aside, not going to ever use them and they are a tad clumsy otherwise. Could just as easily unbolt, leave off and panel over the cutouts if respraying covers. I'm sure others have done it but not really noticed. And cheaper to do nothing.

It’s the original urethane bumper that I had a shop near me repair.   The fiberglass ones I could never get to fit.

[stros]

The stereo project is done.  As mentioned in another thread I also decided to swap out my center dash speakers.  That was a bit of an effort but in the end not that bad.  Added two 4” Infinity reference speakers to the dash in addition to the 6.5s in the kick panels and 6x9s in the rear deck mentioned earlier. 

I still have the JBL Fuse split subwoofers hidden in the trunk with the dedicated SSL amp ($90 1000 watt 2 channel amp off Amazon). 

I added a new JBL 8 channel DSP amp to power the 6 new speakers.  Using 6 of the channels as it doesn’t have enough power for my subs.  A pretty good deal for <$300.  The DSP allows you to specifically tune every single speaker separately.  Given the unconventional speaker setup it’s really great at allowing me to put different amounts of power to each speaker so they sound better together.  It’s a bit complicated to dial in but I think I’m happy with my settings now.  I’ll continue to fiddle with it. 

The DSP amp has no presets and it has to be adjusted using a windows laptop.  Would’ve been nice to adjust it on your phone instead. 

I have a couple of issues I decided to deal with some other time - my quartz clock died again…it was working fine before I removed it.  It’s a repop Classic Industries tach that I’ve had replaced under warranty due to the last clock dying.  This one lasted a few years.  It seems super fragile.  I’m going to live with it not working.  Maybe an excuse to go with digital gauges for a future project.  My light socket behind the fuel/battery gauge - which wasn’t working earlier - also completely snapped off when I was trying to replace the bulb. 

[stros]

Pics of the new grills on the kick panel speakers that clear the parking brake much better and also included a pic of the DSP windows app in case you’re interested (this is a generic image not my current settings).

[b_hill_86]

So, is that OER tach the 79-81 version (function, not font) or is it the earlier version jist with a quartz clock? It’s too bad you have a 77. I have a nice set of 79 gauges. I may have that secondary gauge bulb socket if you want one.

[stros]

Thanks Brian.  I actually ordered a replacement socket already. 

The OER tach gauge is the one for the 1977.  Not going to spend another $360 on another one.
https://www.jegs.com/i/OER/691/5659065/10002/-1

[b_hill_86]

Alrighty no problem

[Wallington]

Is there an OER 79-81 tacho/clock offered yet? Never used to be.

[stros]

Turned out that I had blown a fuse.  Figured out that when my AC wasn’t turning on.  After correcting that issue my clock is functional again and I also have my secondary gauge bulb back in business after crimping a new socket to it.  That bulb is really dim though - need to find a brighter LED bulb for it.

[Wallington]

Pics of the new grills on the kick panel speakers that clear the parking brake much better and also included a pic of the DSP windows app in case you’re interested (this is a generic image not my current settings).

What's the switch or cable or something on end of the park brake mechanism, where the Camaro handle goes?
And surely that park brake isn't applied?! I don't think I've ever seen a photo of one applied that originated in the US! Oh wait, the speaker holds it down?! I thought you'd simply add a few washers for packing to the park brake studs off the side to tilt it away. Maybe you have already.
I have similar situation on the opposite side, park brake modified, and AC kick panel modified so it works inside the opening for clearance. I don't have the round plastic cover in place, although I do have a few ideas as I don't like the unused screw holes either.

[stros]

Sorry the angle of that pic isn’t great.  The parking brake is actually applied in it.

[stros]

Made a few more changes to the stereo system.  Added a bit more bass as my new interior speakers seemed to overpower the sub.

Added a 12” Kicker down firing sub with a dedicated 500 watt MTX amp.  I swapped in a new Kenwood KDC-X305 deck with 5 volt preouts that made a huge difference.  Sounds amazing now.  Natural but powerful sounding. 

I’ve been messing with the DSP amp settings.  The delay, gain, and crossover settings have been what I’ve focused on.  I’m using the equalizer preset settings from the Kenwood deck instead of the amp ones.  What I like about the DSP is I can adjust the center channels to have higher frequency and volume, while toning down the kick panel and rear speakers.  Given the odd 7 speaker setup it works great.

The 12” sub I thought may be too much at first but the smaller box keeps things under control.  It takes up more room in the trunk but given how it’s downfiring it blends in with the carpet a bit.  There aren’t many flat areas in the trunk so you’ll notice it positioned a little oddly.

I got my first car in the 1990s and was very into custom stereo work then.  I love how easy it is to mess with the stereos in the classic cars (though the center speakers were a bit of effort.  New cars these days are tougher to modify. 

I’ve been keeping the TA on a tender in the garage and using it as my Bluetooth speaker when I use our garage gym.

[stros]

Successfully fixed my driver side hood alignment issues.  The nearly 50 year old hinges just needed some adjusting - not replacing.  Before and after pics below.

Also had a chance to drive about 30 miles today in 102 degree weather.  The LS3 stayed within the same temp ranges as our modern cars did.  The A/C is blowing warm air though so looks like I need to recharge it or check if I have a leak somewhere. 

[N PRGRES]

Nice job!  I can't wait to get AC back in my TA

[stros]

Thanks Dave!  A/C was low on refrigerant and recharged it this morning.  All better now, though I wish the center vents could be aimed at the driver better. 

[N PRGRES]

Pics of the new grills on the kick panel speakers that clear the parking brake much better and also included a pic of the DSP windows app in case you’re interested (this is a generic image not my current settings).

How do those kick panel speakers work with your aftermarket AC unit?

[N PRGRES]

More questions:

How do you like the quick shift?
How do you like the mufflers?

[stros]

Pics of the new grills on the kick panel speakers that clear the parking brake much better and also included a pic of the DSP windows app in case you’re interested (this is a generic image not my current settings).

How do those kick panel speakers work with your aftermarket AC unit?

They don’t😀.  The aftermarket AC only pumps air out the dash vents.  The kick panels blocked those kick panel air vents.  That’s one drawback from using them. 

[stros]

More questions:

How do you like the quick shift?
How do you like the mufflers?

The quick shift is definitely better than the Megashifter I had earlier.  The Megashifter broke several times.  I haven’t had any issues with the Quickshift though it could operate a bit more intuitively.  FYI I had to go with these shifters to support the 4 speed 4L70E tranny. 

The mufflers sound pretty good with the LS.  No drone issues.  I think I’d have gone with a transverse option if I did it over again though.  They sit down a bit low underneath the car and I have to be careful with speed bumps. 

[stros]

Pic of the low hanging mufflers.  The PTFB subframe connectors sit pretty low too so I think they’re hitting the speed bumps before the mufflers are getting hit.

[N PRGRES]

Pic of the low hanging mufflers.  The PTFB subframe connectors sit pretty low too so I think they’re hitting the speed bumps before the mufflers are getting hit.

I believe those are Spintech mufflers.  I have Pypes mufflers on mine and I very much dislike them so I was looking at the Spintechs.  Like yours, mine sit low but it seems like my Subframe connectors also rub first

[stros]

Yes they’re Spintechs. 

[FormTA]

I have the transverse exhaust and PTFB SFC on my LS swapped 79. I drag the clamps on the exhaust over speed bumps and dips on the road if I have my wife and kids in the car (not big people either).
I like the sound. It's different but still a good sound.

[stros]

I have the transverse exhaust and PTFB SFC on my LS swapped 79. I drag the clamps on the exhaust over speed bumps and dips on the road if I have my wife and kids in the car (not big people either).
I like the sound. It's different but still a good sound.

Cool -  I don’t think these cars were designed to be lowered.  I’ve had many lowered cars over the years but this one is the first one where I don’t have to worry about the front lower bumper hitting. Instead I get to stress over something in the middle of the car getting whacked. 

[N PRGRES]

I have the transverse exhaust and PTFB SFC on my LS swapped 79. I drag the clamps on the exhaust over speed bumps and dips on the road if I have my wife and kids in the car (not big people either).
I like the sound. It's different but still a good sound.

Is the transverse a Pypes muffler?

[N PRGRES]

More questions:

How do you like the quick shift?
How do you like the mufflers?

The quick shift is definitely better than the Megashifter I had earlier.  The Megashifter broke several times.  I haven’t had any issues with the Quickshift though it could operate a bit more intuitively.  FYI I had to go with these shifters to support the 4 speed 4L70E tranny. 

How easy/hard was the install on that trans?  I was looking at a beefed up 200R4 but those are getting expensive.  The 4L60/70Es are half the price

[stros]

More questions:

How do you like the quick shift?
How do you like the mufflers?

The quick shift is definitely better than the Megashifter I had earlier.  The Megashifter broke several times.  I haven’t had any issues with the Quickshift though it could operate a bit more intuitively.  FYI I had to go with these shifters to support the 4 speed 4L70E tranny. 

How easy/hard was the install on that trans?  I was looking at a beefed up 200R4 but those are getting expensive.  The 4L60/70Es are half the price

I think as long as you go 4 speed you shouldn’t have any fitment issues.  I bought a conversion kit from BRP Hot Rods that installed nicely.   
https://search.app/LqXgbk3QGPQJvGXB8

If I had to do it over again I’d have gone with slightly more aggressive gearing.  I went with 3.08s as I initially thought I was getting a built 461 stroker with a ton of torque but that obviously didn’t happen.

The Eaton TrueTrac differential is really great though.  Of all the parts I’ve had to buy for this car I have it near the top of my list in terms of satisfaction.  It keeps the TA planted really well under hard acceleration, and is absolutely quiet.  That actually may be why I think I could use the aggressive gears.

[stros]

For all of the work on this car over the last 12 years - finally driving the car without a crooked hood for some reason just feels like one of the biggest improvements.  That had been bugging me forever 

[N PRGRES]

More questions:

How do you like the quick shift?
How do you like the mufflers?

The quick shift is definitely better than the Megashifter I had earlier.  The Megashifter broke several times.  I haven’t had any issues with the Quickshift though it could operate a bit more intuitively.  FYI I had to go with these shifters to support the 4 speed 4L70E tranny. 

How easy/hard was the install on that trans?  I was looking at a beefed up 200R4 but those are getting expensive.  The 4L60/70Es are half the price

I think as long as you go 4 speed you shouldn’t have any fitment issues.  I bought a conversion kit from BRP Hot Rods that installed nicely.   
https://search.app/LqXgbk3QGPQJvGXB8

If I had to do it over again I’d have gone with slightly more aggressive gearing.  I went with 3.08s as I initially thought I was getting a built 461 stroker with a ton of torque but that obviously didn’t happen.

The Eaton TrueTrac differential is really great though.  Of all the parts I’ve had to buy for this car I have it near the top of my list in terms of satisfaction.  It keeps the TA planted really well under hard acceleration, and is absolutely quiet.  That actually may be why I think I could use the aggressive gears.

Mine has 3.08 and it was recently completely redone.  Mine is built more as a cruising car, not really a drag car.  I would have to go with a shifter like yours I am guessing

[stros]

Im not aware of any other shifters out there let that are made to fit our cars that can handle the 4 speed auto setup like the 2 b&m ones either.

[stros]

Found a couple of leaks - apparently driving it more often is working out some kinks.

Transmission output shaft was leaking.  I had done the rear pinion seal a couple months back and should’ve caught that back then.  Found a new seal that seems to be designed better to avoid the dirt that got up there and appeared to cause the leak.  For a moment I was thinking about replacing my driveshaft but I think it’s ok ($15 deal is a much cheaper project).

Diff cover was leaking again.  Decided to take this opportunity to upgrade the gears to 3.73s from the 3.08s.  I had a local shop install Motive Performance gears - so far they seem quiet.  Having fun breaking them in now.  Drove it 100 miles in the past 24 hours as per the directions I’m supposed to drive it 100 before going a max of 65 for the next 400.  Will use it as my daily driver for now to speed up this break in.  Glad I put the new stereo in now - getting my $s out of it.

Axle seals also were replaced when doing the diff.  Thought those were replaced when I upgraded the axles so that was a surprise. 

Also adjusted the parking brake on my Wilwoods- much better now.  Seems like it needs adjustment nearly annually. 

Officially hit 4000 miles on the LS3 today. 

Let me know if anyone wants the 3.08 gears.  Bought them new - oem GM ones that have 4K miles on them.

[5th T/A]

Darryl, since my memory isn’t as good as it used to be I went back and read your thread from the beginning. I thoroughly enjoyed because I forgot how much you did to your car. Is there anything you haven’t touched? Everyone is different and we all do what is important to us. I personally like the fact that at first glance the car looks pretty original. Although as you said it drives like a modern performance car. I mentioned before, I like the LS engine dress up, blue paint and Pontiac lettering, nice touch. Probably some who really don’t know these cars will think this is how Pontiac built it. All the audio upgrades, you must really like listening to tunes while driving. Glad you are getting to drive your car, it’s good for you and the car. Sadly I think I have only had mine out half a dozen times this year.

[stros]

Thanks!  I had that same feeling when I thought I might need to replace the driveshaft.  It felt like that’s the only original part left now.  I believe the front control arms, the driveshaft and the 10 bolt rear end are the only items untouched (though everything in the rear end has been replaced). 

I did the sound system project mostly because I missed working on the car as it felt like it was done and I hadn’t done much in the last couple of years.  Then it sprouted a few more leaks after adding some miles. 

I went into buying this car with no plan at all - first resto project ever.  Just was looking for a fun distraction from work and needed a hobby as my kids got older.  Gradually managed to get a few
mechanical skills along the way - I had zero at the start as most could tell.  Thanks to everyone on this site that’s helped me out over the last 11 years. 

Pleasantly surprised that these cars have gone up in value so amazingly I’m not totally upside down financially on this project, though I can’t imagine ever selling it.  Lots of blood sweat and tears into it at this point.  I really enjoy driving it now - can’t quite say that 11 years back. 

It does drive like a modern car power and handling wise.  The ride is obviously a bit rougher and it’s noisier but it has “character”.  It’s been nice driving it the entire summer with working A/C and the engine staying cool even during the high 90’s days here recently. 

[scarebird]

...Also adjusted the parking brake on my Wilwoods- much better now.  Seems like it needs adjustment nearly annually...

Good to hear you are wringing the gremlins out!

That was always something that irritated me about both the Wilwood and GM drum-in-hat setups - very lazy engineering.  You have to pull everything including the calipers to adjust the shoes.  If a small shop like mine could dope out a solution why couldn't they?

[stros]

Update after a full week of daily driving it for the first time.  I’m halfway thru the gear break in - 250 miles on them now.  RPMs at 65 are about 1700…not too bad.

I can’t be too hard on them yet but I think this is a good ratio that adds some more oomph off the line, still easy to modulate without spinning the tires, and not too high of RPMs at cruising speed.  I don’t do a huge amount of freeway driving anyways and I actually prefer taking a few more minutes to go to work but backroads. 

Unrelated to the gears - found a few more gremlins but fairly easy to correct.  My hood was vibrating on the left hand side a bit and also was rubbing up the fender.  I had previously adjusted it to finally get it level with the fender on both driver and passenger sides but the driver side fender was too close.  Had a friend help me pull the fender out a tiny bit while I tightened the front top fender bolts. That cleared enough room and made it look pretty even with the passenger side hood gap. 

The hood latch was also a tad too high up leading to the play in the hood.  I was able to get the radiator support to lower a bit by adjusting the bolts in the middle of the support.  It’s a little harder to close the hood now but it fixed the vibration issue.

One thing I’m noticing is that the rear suspension is a bit noisy / creaky sounding.  I don’t think it’s squeaking.  Guessing this has to do with the leaf springs.  The top leaf spring pads look like they’re cracking.  I had replaced them when installing the PTFB springs many years back but wondering if the wrong lubricant was applied to them and screwed up the rubber.  If anyone else has suggestions on how to best lube the rear suspension let me know.  I think the entire suspension needs a full lubrication but the rear noise is much more noticeable.  However the handling is still really good despite the noise.  Between the stereo and exhaust I can drown out that noise but I’d like to address it.  I bought some new spring to install and will lube it up at the same time I replace those. 

Last item I noticed is that my front spoiler on the driver side is hanging much lower than the flares.  The spoiler and flares are Danko repops and look to be missing the brackets to connect the flares and spoiler.  For some reason the passenger side is aligning without the bracket.  The flares aren’t drilled with holes to mount the brackets so I’ll have to drill into them.  Bought these spoiler brackets off Amazon.

https://a.co/d/aSiqkxk

That all being said I’m starting to like driving the Trans Am a lot more than my truck so we may keep this going post break in. 

[5th T/A]

Update after a full week of daily driving it for the first time.  I’m halfway thru the gear break in - 250 miles on them now.  RPMs at 65 are about 1700…not too bad.

I can’t be too hard on them yet but I think this is a good ratio that adds some more oomph off the line, still easy to modulate without spinning the tires, and not too high of RPMs at cruising speed.  I don’t do a huge amount of freeway driving anyways and I actually prefer taking a few more minutes to go to work but backroads. 

Unrelated to the gears - found a few more gremlins but fairly easy to correct.  My hood was vibrating on the left hand side a bit and also was rubbing up the fender.  I had previously adjusted it to finally get it level with the fender on both driver and passenger sides but the driver side fender was too close.  Had a friend help me pull the fender out a tiny bit while I tightened the front top fender bolts. That cleared enough room and made it look pretty even with the passenger side hood gap. 

The hood latch was also a tad too high up leading to the play in the hood.  I was able to get the radiator support to lower a bit by adjusting the bolts in the middle of the support.  It’s a little harder to close the hood now but it fixed the vibration issue.

One thing I’m noticing is that the rear suspension is a bit noisy / creaky sounding.  I don’t think it’s squeaking.  Guessing this has to do with the leaf springs.  The top leaf spring pads look like they’re cracking.  I had replaced them when installing the PTFB springs many years back but wondering if the wrong lubricant was applied to them and screwed up the rubber.  If anyone else has suggestions on how to best lube the rear suspension let me know.  I think the entire suspension needs a full lubrication but the rear noise is much more noticeable.  However the handling is still really good despite the noise.  Between the stereo and exhaust I can drown out that noise but I’d like to address it.  I bought some new spring to install and will lube it up at the same time I replace those. 

Last item I noticed is that my front spoiler on the driver side is hanging much lower than the flares.  The spoiler and flares are Danko repops and look to be missing the brackets to connect the flares and spoiler.  For some reason the passenger side is aligning without the bracket.  The flares aren’t drilled with holes to mount the brackets so I’ll have to drill into them.  Bought these spoiler brackets off Amazon.

https://a.co/d/aSiqkxk

That all being said I’m starting to like driving the Trans Am a lot more than my truck so we may keep this going post break in.

Any day you can drive your Trans Am is a good day. Glad you are enjoying it, good inspiration for all of us!

[stros]

Thanks 5th TA!

The $20 spoiler brackets worked pretty well after drilling a hole into each side flare this afternoon.  Used the existing hole on the main lower spoiler. While I had it on the ramps decided to take care of the oil change as it was about due.  Before / after pics below.

[N PRGRES]

Looking good!!!!!!

[stros]

Looking good!!!!!!

Thanks Dave!

A few more updates, regarding my noisy rear suspension.  I ended up largely resolving the issue by removing and re-greasing all of the sway bar bushings and the leaf spring rear shackle bushings.  Removing the rear shackle bushings were a pain and required me getting a friend's help to get them out, but I think it was worth it in the end.  Hopefully these don't require re-greasing too often.

The front leaf spring eye bushings I couldn't figure out how to get out without fully removing the leaf springs themselves altogether - so just sprayed those with white lithium grease.  I also sprayed the white lithium grease on the rubber isolators between the individual leaf springs themselves.  I believe most of the noise was coming from the rear shackles though. 

As far as I recall the rear suspension has been noisy forever and likely wasn't greased properly from the beginning, though the PTFB leaf springs have been on the car now for nearly 10 years (installed "professionally"). 

It's not necessarily Cadillac quiet but I'm very happy with the outcome.  Overall I think it is driving smoother now too, which makes sense given that it's lubed up now. 

So for those of you who with a rear suspension that is is creaking and groaning, these are a few items I think lubing up could help. 

[N PRGRES]

Looking good!!!!!!

 

So for those of you who with a rear suspension that is is creaking and groaning, these are a few items I think lubing up could help.

Can I use this on my lower back? hahaha