My Tenth Anniv.

[wheels78ta]

It's looking great.

Are those Ames striped hoses? 

I just got the rest of my order from them on their hoses. 

[roadking77]

Yes, they did come from Ames. At first I thought they were a bit pricey, but I got some regular black only hoses at napa and they were of a different quality. Supposedly the same size but the napa stuff was a bit bigger, both inside and outside diameter. The napa stuff was about a $1 ft. less. I went to autozone and their hose was a bit closer in size but had made in china printed all over it. I needed a piece for the fuel line return to the canister so I used a scotch bright pad to erase the lettering.

[Jack]

Kerry, I was hoping to see a huge update but I guess some progress is better than no progress.

[roadking77]

Unfortunately. It seems that for every step I take forward there are a couple back. I went to hook up the clutch linkage and the rod that pushes on the fork was a bit worn out from years of use. The reality is that it would probably hold up for another 40 years but I could not with a good conscience install it. SO, order some more parts It came in fri. but I had to work yesterday so havent had any shop time.

[roadking77]

20240303_142240 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
20240303_150313 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
20240303_144218 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
20240303_144949 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240303_130708 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
20240303_131033 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
20240303_152925 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

Although I am a bit under the weather today, I got a little bit accomplished. Radiator in and hooked up, Was gonna hook up the clutch linkage but ran into a small problem getting the ball installed into the engine block. Not enough room for a full size wrench so I will hit HF tomorrow and pick up a shorty. I think I can get it screwed in all the way with that. I dont want to be the boy that cried wolf but I think I am a battery and a radiator fill away from finally getting this beast fired up.

[wheels78ta]

Great pics.  I'm not too far behind.  Close to getting the motor/tranny installed.

Do you have your exhaust ready?  Or are you taking it to someone for the exhaust?

[roadking77]

I picked up the pypes system last summer at the camaro nationals. It saved a ton on shipping. I do need to get the down pipes and the splitters. I have been tossing this back and forth. On one side I figure what the heck, but on the other hand there is an exhaust shop in my town that can have it done in a day, maybe 2 if they run into trouble with parts. I might spend weeks doing it myself so...............

My only other exhaust experience was when I had my 85 trans am. I put an SLP exhaust on it eliminating the cat. It took ALL day sat and most of sunday to get the old one off. Then it took me about a half hour to put the new one on. It was a very frustrating experience but the biggest part of that problem was the car was not high enough off of the ground.

[FormTA]

I found my pypes system was fairly easy to install but, the hangers they supplied we barely adequate. If I had to do it again I would get some oe type hangers with the rubber isolaters and the bar you weld to the pipe that pops in. Or have a professional shop do it.

[roadking77]

The problem I had with the settup I bought for my 77 was they sent the wrong mufflers. I dont remember the details now but I needed something like centre in flow and offset out flow and what they gave me was the opposite. The installer tried and tried but could not get them right. I contacted summit (where I bought it) and they said since it was sold as a complete system I had to send the entire thing back for an exchange! By that time he had half installed I was kinda upset they would not just exchange the mufflers. So I ended up buying an additional set. I  hope theyre right this time around. I have the dual settup on my 77 with an auto trans. The pypes guy I talked to at Carlisle said that the transverse muffler actually puts out a bit more hp so I had made up my mind that I was going that way. Wanted to see the performance difference between the 2 cars. BUT the tenth came with a dual muffler settup so I figured on sticking with that. Its already modified so for authenticity it doesnt make sense but I figured what the hey.

[roadking77]

Had a bit of a lull yesterday, I was able to squeeze in a little shop time. Got the clutch z bar linkage hooked up, and most of the reverse lock out hooked up. I say most as I need to attach the rod at the steering column. I tried installing the column but like everything else that is 1 step forward and 1 back I lost the bolts or maybe never had them for the steering column. I will stick with the latter as the column was loose and not installed when I bought the car. So I got it pretty much in place will need to pick up some fasteners today. On my way back from a job I stopped at Azone and picked up coolant, dot 3, steering fluid and a battery. $300 later I should be really close to a start up now.

[roadking77]

20240314_165818 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Steering column installed. First time in who knows how long this has been in place. It was out when I bought the car.


20240314_171043 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Did a quick battery hookup just because, and LET THERE BE LIGHT! Footwell light works anyway.

[FormTA]

Dash an column look great! Getting close!

[roadking77]

All fluids in and check, did a test and the motor fired off! Not running as I do not have gas in at this time. BUT it did turn over Kind of appropriate as the build date of this car is the 4th week of March. Happy Birthday!!
Yesterday was my grandsons b day so he officially made the cars build day the same. Need to work out a couple of bugs and it should be good to go. Getting excited about getting this thing put back together.

[roadking77]

Fuel in the tank, Car is Running!!

[ryeguy2006a]

Congrats Kerry!! Sounds amazing!!

[5th T/A]

Hallelujah!

As I come up on my 4th year as a TAC member I give thanks to a Handful of loyal TAC posters with incredible talent, knowledge and perseverance. These individuals keep this site interesting and without them I don’t think there would be TAC. Congratulations Kerry you are at or near the top of this list. You and other loyal TAC members give others the incentive to those who have been working on projects for years to hang in there. I’ve watched your project since I first joined and can only recall you making only one minor mistake. You told your engine builder you weren’t in a hurry to get your engine done😂.

[FormTA]

Video or it didn't happen.  😀

[roadking77]

Not sure how to post a video on here. If it has to go through u tube I am lost, maybe my grandson can help me, LOL.

 I have a leak at the water neck/thermostat housing. I had to remove it and re-install as the builder put it in the wrong direction. I reused the gasket, hope that is the problem. Picked up a new one today, gonna re-install a bit later. I only ran the motor for about 10 seconds with the leak. BUT, that is the only thing I saw. I was worried about the fuel lines as them as well as the tank are all new. Put some gas in it and let it sit for a  half hr or so before I hit the switch. No leaks at all which was a bit of encouragement.

[N PRGRES]

That first start can always try your nerves.

[FormTA]

I remember the joy I had when I fired my LS off for the first time. It was a great feeling to give life to a car that hasn't seen life for 20+ years. It's pretty exciting! I can post your video here if you want. I'd have to load it to my YouTube page first though.

[roadking77]

Yes Luke, by all means do so. Thanks.

[FormTA]

I don't know any other way than the link below.




https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ejwP4xQ4KLI

[roadking77]

20240331_123213 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240331_190911 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Couple of small items taken care of. Reverse lockout linkage rod cleaned up, repainted ready for a re-install.
20240331_123434 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Part no. for those that like that kind of stuff.
20240403_183420 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240403_185352 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Digging a seat out of the pile for a temp. I found a pair of downpipes. These are pypes parts left over from my 77 build. I had these in my cart and was about to pull the trigger for a new pair so it was lucky I found what I did not know I even had! Not sure why they were spare the first time around but I didnt do the exhaust so........ Hoping they will fit ok. They were victims of my barn fire, although they didnt get any heat they were smoked up pretty bad. I hit them with the rolock to clean up a bit. I know they will turn and be ugly with a bit of heat but I just cant install something that looks bad to begin with

[roadking77]

20240403_180845 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
I had a leak at the water neck. Bought a new gasket, drained the radiator last night and was going to change it out. Taking the cap off I began wondering at what position the Tstat should be in. Above or below the gasket? Well, once I took the old gasket off I saw the recess in the manifold for the stat to recess into and viola!  No wonder it leaked and Im surprised it didnt leak worse than it did. Buttoned  back up, need to get some more water and anti freeze today then another fire up to see if the problem is solved.

In my defense my builder had the water neck installed when I got the motor back. However it was in the wrong position and there was no thermostat installed. He did have the gasket installed. I took the neck off, painted put the stat in and re-installed. I used the gasket in place the reason I didnt see the recess the first time around. First time I had put one of these in, I know better now!

[roadking77]

Fired off the motor and it ran fine for a few minutes. No leaks 
Next big thing on the list is exhaust. I bought a pypes kit from fbird central (they had the best price) and picked it up at the camaro nationals in PA last July. Funny thing is, I ordered it in April of last year and figured by July I would be waiting on it
Before the exhaust, I need to put the drive shaft in. New U joints, no problem. Or so I thought. I dont have a press and theres no way I can get the old ones out, so off to the shop.
THEN, I moved the car around a bit to clean up the stay dry I had put down to absorb the leak I had. One pile was soaked still which was a bit of a curiosity to me? After a quick sweep up,  DRIP on the floor. Heater core is bad. New one will be here on thursday. Not looking forward to that but better to come apart now than after the interior is in.

[wheels78ta]

For the U-joints........you don't need a press.

All you need is a torch, a vice (or something to hold the drive shaft), hammer, pliers and a socket.

There is a plastic ring inside that you melt out.  It will come out the small holes on the lobes.  Then use a hammer and socket to knock out the U-joint ends.

The plastic inside is a bluish color.  You can see in the second pic it is starting to push out.  In the third pic the plastic is almost completely removed.  Do this to all for ends of the u-joint.

[roadking77]

Looks just like mine I did that and the wax flowed out once it hit temp. I took a socket just under the size of the cap and hit it a few times. That thing was stuck about as stuck as it could be. I didnt want to beat on it too heavily. Hence I figured a press may  push it out easier. Havent had a chance to run it over to the shop today. I called and she said that she would be glad to take care of it for me. If I dont get there tonight I will drop it off on my way to work tomorrow.

[FormTA]

Some of them caps get really stuck. I had to press mine out as well. Even after heat it still sounded like a gunshot when it finally broke free with my press.

[5th T/A]

I have replaced hundreds of U-joints using a large bench vise and a ball peen hammer. The attached video is not of me, but this is very close to my method and this video explains and shows it far better than I could. Regarding the GM drive shafts with a plastic retainer, I would use an acetylene torch and beat on the drive shaft ears while it is still hot. It usually wouldn't take more than one or two hits with a ball peen to knock the cap free. Do not hit the hollow tube of the drive shaft with a hammer. Do not clamp the drive shaft tube with the vice. If you are not accurate with swinging a hammer, this method may not be for you.  You can easily use the bench vise to press in the new U-joint. When properly installed there should not be any binding of the new U-joint.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXWLl6ADJFA

[FormTA]

Just to add.... I have in recent years started using my ball joint press to remove them. I get it set up snug with a wrench and then smack the threaded part with a mallet and that usually breaks them lose and then just push them out with by turning the screw. But, you'd have to have the ball joint press. But after owning my car for over 25 years, I have needed to replace a few ball joints so I own the press....

[roadking77]

Im not much of a mechanic but after 45+ years I can def. swing a hammer pretty good
But in my case, off to the shop with this stupid thing.

[rkellerjr]

Getting closer!

[roadking77]

20240406_172628 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_083102 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_083058 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_083052 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
A very simple cleanup. Seat track before and after a 24hr bath in evaporust. Still needs a bit of cleanup but overall not too bad. The side with the adjuster has a broken foot but I have another set that is pretty good. Not worth getting the welder out at this point.

[5th T/A]

Just to add.... I have in recent years started using my ball joint press to remove them. I get it set up snug with a wrench and then smack the threaded part with a mallet and that usually breaks them lose and then just push them out with by turning the screw. But, you'd have to have the ball joint press. But after owning my car for over 25 years, I have needed to replace a few ball joints so I own the press....

I am not saying the vice and hammer method is the best or most desirable way to replace U-joints. Just an inexpensive alternative if you don't have a press. Today you can purchase a decent hydraulic press from Harbor Freight for a couple hundred dollars and well worth the price after you use it a few times. I also am not suggesting anything about anyone's ability to use a hammer or vice. I was just trying to point how easy it is to damage a drive shaft if you are not careful.

[roadking77]

I almost bought a press at HF last summer. Was in the store and all but pulled the ticket. But I chickened out. I really would like to have one and am sure once I do get it I will find many uses, but my shop is just about packed with stuff right now I dont know where I would put it?

Took the heater box out tonight. Wasnt too bad, as long as I remember how to re-install
It was a blessing in disguise as the inside was home to the traveling rodents at some point. It was pretty messy, grimy and rusty. Got everything cleaned up, some repainting done and some re-assembly. Waiting on some paint to dry and the core to get here. Hope to have everything back in place over the weekend.
20240409_164312 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_165226 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_165235 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_172515 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_180316 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240409_182020 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

[5th T/A]

I can only imagine the fragrance that would come out of the heater vents with all that rodent debris. The RoadKing Restoration of the heater looks like new.

Another step closer to having your TATA rolling down the road!

[FormTA]

At first glance I thought those were baby chicks in there. Haha.

Definitely better to do it now... I changed mine when I had my car apart because I know these cars and they go bad and a pain to do once the fenders and inner fenders are on.

[roadking77]

20240409_170312 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240411_101550 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240411_101554 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240411_132146 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

Heater door cleaned up and painted. New heater core beside old one.
New heater core:
Ames - $130
NPD - $100
Napa - $60

Local Napa store did not have it so I ordered it online, got here this morning.

[FormTA]

Nice work. Is that heater core copper just painted silver?

[roadking77]

20240411_200634 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240411_200310 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr20240411_200228 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
Heater box is finished! Metal was derusted with a combination of roloc, and evaporust, then hit with silver paint. I cleaned all of the hard plastic with simple green. That did a great job. I did a thorough read of my service manual and have a pretty good idea on how all of this is supposed to work as far as which door opens when and what makes which door open. The under dash was pretty nasty underneath all of this so I will clean and organize that mess before I install. Prob will keep me busy for a couple of hours this weekend.
The new heater core is aluminum. Not sure how that translates to efficiency over the copper but Im not worried about it. The core itself side by side the original looks very good. And the money I saved can go towards something else (seats?)