Loosening the passenger side inner fender...

[megajam02]

So, after researching, Ive learned I need to loosen the passenger-side inner fender to get to one of the bolts and a hose (I have an A/C car). Ive never done any body work, so Im not sure whats involved in getting the fender loosened enough for me to get in there. Can anyone provide any insight into the process?

[TonysTA]

Assuming you are working in a 2nd gen, there are only a few bolts for the fenders, if memory serves :

1. Rear of fender to A-Post (can only see this one when you open the door)
2. Rear fender to firewall - will need a ratchet extension to make this one easier to loosen
3. Rear fender to top of cowl
4. Front fender to radiator shroud - top and bottom
5. Fender to inner fender well - these would be visible from the top looking down standing over the passenger fender
6. Rear fender bottom to rocker / inner fender well

I may have missed a few, but if you poke around, they are not too hard to find. I don't know if your hood is on or not but I highly suggest you mark all your bolt locations and where the fender meets the bolt + exact number of shims used per spot.  If you have nice body gaps, you will want to put everything back the exact way you found it or you could screw up closing your hood / p. door.

Good luck.

[megajam02]

Thank you, Tony.
I am, indeed, working on a second-gen.

So I guess this means I’m going to have to remove the fender? I was hoping I could loosen the inner fender and get in without disturbing the outer fender. Man, I really didn’t want to have to mess with the shims and lining everything up again.

[81Blackbird]

If you just want to remove the inner fender, which is what is sounds like to get to the radiator hose and a bolt (?), the only fender bolt that needs to be remove would be the one near the pinch weld where the door and fender meet and the one forward of the wheel that holds the fender to the radiator core support...I think.  Then the bolts around the wheel well and filler plate,  The two at the 12 o'clock position and the two at the 8 o'clock position behind the wheel.  Be sure to tape the door and fender edges before you start just in case.  As Tony mentioned, be sure to count and replace the shims exactly as you found them.  Take lots of pictures.

[TonysTA]

Ah, I read it too fast, I thought he said fender. Yes, what 81Blackbird said would be a better approach to meet your objective.