Author Topic: Sniper EFI  (Read 2701 times)

hakitup

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Sniper EFI
« on: February 16, 2019, 12:31:36 PM »
Starting the EFI upgrade today still need the tank and fuel pump but I should be able to get everything I have in. I'll post my progress/problems. The main reason for the swap is proper fuel ratio so I don't damage the new engine on its drive to South Dakota.
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2019, 03:46:26 PM »
So far I welded on the O2 bung and mounted it then turned to the engine side. Here are some of the issues, the inlet is an AN fitting and the 3/8 hose barb was not supplied, the rear vacuum port is 1/4 NPT and the brake booster/HVAC vacuum/distributor barb is 1/8 NPT (machined an adapter). The charcoal canister vent hose is 1/4 and the hose barbs available are 3/16 and 3/8 I tried to get the hose to stretch over the 3/8 but it is just to old. The OEM throttle cable bracket is a little low and when I shimmed it up it hit the air cleaner base so I bent the bracket a little to get a better/straighter angle.

After lunch task are to machine a charcoal vent adapter, test fit the shaker, drill and tap for the water temp in the cross over (Edelbrock heads do not have the temp sending unit holes by the exhaust) and find a key on/crank on 12v source I think it might be the choke wire.

Tom H
« Last Edit: February 16, 2019, 05:30:50 PM by hakitup »
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737driver

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2019, 11:54:16 PM »
I used the Sniper on my 455 in the LeMans. One thing I noticed is that I had to use a 1/2 spacer for the air cleaner to fit properly. It shouldn’t really make a huge difference with the shaker, but something that might give you some heads up.
Jim
1979 Trans Am- Heritage Brown -W72 (Pontiac 400) -4Speed-WS6
1972 LeMans Convertible
1977 Trans Am
1972 Firebird
1971 Firebird
1970 Firebird
1977 MGB  Roadster Convertible

Jeff Has A Brewster

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2019, 08:04:21 AM »
Thanks for taking the time to document your installation hakitup, I’ll be following this thread closely.

SP Steve

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2019, 12:02:27 PM »
I'll be following along as well. I'm very curious to hear how the air cleaner base fits the QJet Sniper.

SP Steve

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2019, 12:08:01 PM »

So far I welded on the O2 bung




The installation instructions say the O2 sensor should be 6-10 inches past the exhaust collector, do you think you have enough distance from the exhaust manifold?

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2019, 02:21:26 PM »
I've read the closer the better but if it doesn't work there I'll move it, won't be the first time. I had to move the one on my jeep from the 6-10 from the collector to the primary tube. They don't like being under water.

The sharker test fit went great although I did have to plug the alignment hole. It sits in the exact same place as the quadrajet.

Today was wiring day and I hate doing wires. Connected the O2 and water temp sensor no problem. Next the main harness and to my surprise the fuel pump relay is part of the harness. It's unclear in the direction but it's all set up. Just connect the POS/neg to the battery, key/crank 12v ( my choke wire), neg side of the coil (tach wire) and run the blue wire to the truck for the fuel pump (there was enough wire suppled to get it there). Next thing was the hand held screen. Put it in my console and ran the wire through the firewall at the vacuum grommet (I also ran the fuel wire through there). Now I wait for the tank and pump.




Tom H
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hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2019, 08:03:21 PM »





My only concern right now is the tank and pump. According to Holleys advertisement you don't need a return line but it's never addressed in the sniper instructions.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2019, 08:19:53 PM by hakitup »
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yellow1098

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2019, 10:17:21 PM »
Been running the sniper for a few months now....it's a million times better than the carbs for me...it does get better and better the more you drive but it may have a few glitches during that learning process

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2019, 10:23:01 PM »
Good to know, I can't wait to get it going. Do you have the timing hooked up? I'm following Holleys recommendation to work the EFI before adding the timing control.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2019, 11:00:31 PM »

So far I welded on the O2 bung




The installation instructions say the O2 sensor should be 6-10 inches past the exhaust collector, do you think you have enough distance from the exhaust manifold?

Not to get in any pissing contest but as I was looking over the quickstart manual for timing control I ran across this. (update) I printed the sniper manual and there is a conflict between it and the quick start manual. It does say 6-10 inches from the collector of headers but also says put as close to engine as possible.



From what I have read before is the O2 sensor works best closer to the engine because it needs heat. The farther away it gets then it needs a heater which I'm sure this kit has. Even with a heater it's better to be close and this thread is about the sniper kit and it's installation on our cars and what it takes aka mods.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2019, 05:15:51 PM by hakitup »
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SP Steve

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2019, 08:13:46 AM »

The sharker test fit went great although I did have to plug the alignment hole. It sits in the exact same place as the quadrajet.



Tom H

Good to know the factory air cleaner base fits, I'm considering the Sniper QJet for my Formula and it has to use the factory style Ram Air air cleaner base without a spacer.

737driver

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2019, 09:45:58 AM »
That is good to know about the QJ Sniper. I installed the Sniper ( not Quadrajet Sniper) , I asked Holly about the QJ Sniper at SEMA, and the said that it was the exact dimensions as a stock QJ. It is good to see that it fits well with the shaker. The other thing that is good about the QJ Sniper is that you do not need to modify a stock intake because it has the same size primaries and secondaries as the stock quadrajet. Really looking forward to hearing more about your install!

Jim 
1979 Trans Am- Heritage Brown -W72 (Pontiac 400) -4Speed-WS6
1972 LeMans Convertible
1977 Trans Am
1972 Firebird
1971 Firebird
1970 Firebird
1977 MGB  Roadster Convertible

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2019, 05:27:27 PM »
I probably wouldn't be doing this if I needed adapters or new manifold. Todays progress is the tank is out and I'm waiting for a delivery. I did look again for a build sheet hoping I would find it even though I have had the rear seat out several times and the tank down once, no luck.

So I have been doing research on the timing control and I think that I will tackle it at a later date. I don't want to change the distributor for one and I found a great video on what mods are required to use the stock distributor. Things that I need to make or buy is coil driver from Holley, mechanical advance lockout plate, manual adjustable vacuum advance and MSD HEI Module bypass harness. I also need to download the timing control software from Holley, I guess some items can't be controlled by the handheld.

Tom H
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Steve B

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2019, 03:06:08 PM »
Starting the EFI upgrade today still need the tank and fuel pump but I should be able to get everything I have in. I'll post my progress/problems. The main reason for the swap is proper fuel ratio so I don't damage the new engine on its drive to South Dakota.


Any particular reason you went with the Holley Sniper EFI as opposed to the Holley Terminator Stealth EFI.  I personally chose the Stealth because it resembles the looks of a carburetor with the functionality of EFI.  Just curious...
Steve
1980 Trans Am, 400, TH400 auto

Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2019, 03:06:08 PM »


2020-B1-8


hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2019, 10:52:30 PM »
The sniper comes in a quadrajet configuration so the stock manifold doesn't need any adapters, so the issue of shaker fitment are gone. Stock 72 non-EGR manifold (port matched, cut up to look like a RAMAIR III), stock air cleaner, stock shaker.


The tank and pump came today and I am disappointed. Being a kit (tank, pump, hose and clamps) you would think it came with a filler neck. Well it doesn't which I find odd since the original is welded on. The good new is my OEM tank was in good shape and the in tank fuel pump is made to go into a stock tank. I put it in and went through the start up wizard picking Q-Jet, 8 cylinder, engine cubic inch (462) and target idle RPM 800 (might lower later) hit upload, pump came on. I looked for fuel leaks (I have one at the pressure gauge) got back in the car and cycled the ignition switch like the screen said to. Selected initial start up and boom fire right up smoother cold running than it ever has. I've been working on the car in an area that I'm not suppose to be so I shut down opened the door and drove it to the parking lot. No hiccups or funny running I do need to fix the fuel leak tomorrow in the light and change the throttle spring, the leverage is different from my quadrajet so it's to easy.





Tom H
« Last Edit: February 19, 2019, 11:11:36 PM by hakitup »
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

skisix38off

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #16 on: February 20, 2019, 07:49:22 AM »
Great news on the start up and the system initialization!  How exciting!  I'm hopefully a week away from the first start of my Holley Terminator system on a new LS3 and can't wait to get as far as you have.

Jeff Has A Brewster

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #17 on: February 20, 2019, 08:44:31 AM »
Very cool Hakitup! I am enjoying reading this thread. This is a mod I’m considering doing next year. I am looking forward to your driving impressions.

737driver

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #18 on: February 20, 2019, 10:40:02 AM »
I had to have the filler neck re done on my tank. I took it to a radiator shop and the brazed the filler neck back on. Holley does make a retrofit pump sender that can be used with stock tank.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-304

Looks like it would be a good option as well.

Jim
1979 Trans Am- Heritage Brown -W72 (Pontiac 400) -4Speed-WS6
1972 LeMans Convertible
1977 Trans Am
1972 Firebird
1971 Firebird
1970 Firebird
1977 MGB  Roadster Convertible

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #19 on: February 20, 2019, 01:09:03 PM »
I had to have the filler neck re done on my tank. I took it to a radiator shop and the brazed the filler neck back on. Holley does make a retrofit pump sender that can be used with stock tank.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-304

Looks like it would be a good option as well.

Jim

Hey Jim this is the kit I bought which comes with the retrofit in tank full pump, as you can see in the picture there is no filler neck but I figured it would have it.

Tom H
« Last Edit: February 20, 2019, 02:45:08 PM by hakitup »
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hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #20 on: February 20, 2019, 03:18:28 PM »
Todays progress, fixed the fuel leak but now have a water leak at the coolant temp sensor (CTS) I need to use sealant this time. Started the car and let it warm up once warmed the idle wouldn't come down. Looked the manual over and I needed to adjust the throttle blades to get the idle air control (IAC) to read 2-10%, no amount of adjustment made it change. I ended up changing the distributor vacuum advance from manifold vacuum to ported this fixed the problem. Idle is smooth but I think it could be better although it is now in the learn mode. Took it for a drive and the only issue I had was after about 30 minutes if stop and go the engine would almost stall at the stop lights. I change the screen and watch the IAC and it was bouncing all around between 2-10%. I decided to adjust the throttle blades again and I will take it out for a drive later. I believe the key is to have the timing activated because the manual says that the ECU will use both IAC and timing to hit the target idle, it also says it will idle much smoother.

So with that said I ordered the parts to get that working and have studied a lot so I can understand how it works and what to do.
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #21 on: February 20, 2019, 04:32:16 PM »
Second drive the stall issue after coming to a stop is still there the first 15 minutes. So at the bank I raised the target idle to 900 and the next drive it didn't want to stall as bad and the last 15 minutes it didn't try to stall at all, learning I guess. I see how the drive home goes, a lot of traffic so I hope it doesn't do the stall stuff.

Tom H
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737driver

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #22 on: February 20, 2019, 11:00:13 PM »
I had to have the filler neck re done on my tank. I took it to a radiator shop and the brazed the filler neck back on. Holley does make a retrofit pump sender that can be used with stock tank.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-304

Looks like it would be a good option as well.

Jim

Hey Jim this is the kit I bought which comes with the retrofit in tank full pump, as you can see in the picture there is no filler neck but I figured it would have it.

Tom H

I noticed I did that and changed it to the pump sending unit. It does seem kinda ridiculous they would sell a tank with no filler neck.
1979 Trans Am- Heritage Brown -W72 (Pontiac 400) -4Speed-WS6
1972 LeMans Convertible
1977 Trans Am
1972 Firebird
1971 Firebird
1970 Firebird
1977 MGB  Roadster Convertible

T/A Addict

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #23 on: February 21, 2019, 05:24:05 AM »
I'll be doing the same Sniper setup so I'm following and learning!
Can't believe the tank comes with no filler neck, I got a quote for a tank but I'm glad I learned of this before ordering if the intake stock tank pump replacement works just as good.
Jeff
2016 Victory Cross Country
TATA '72 455 HO Auto
79 T/A 403 Solar Gold
69 F'Bird P-Touring T/A tribute to be
2010 Challenger R/T  PCP

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #24 on: February 21, 2019, 04:00:59 PM »
So I'm still having a stall issue and it happens as I'm coming to a light downshifting I put the clutch in and the idle starts to bounce then it goes lean then stall. It's not consistent but really annoying. I did research last night and found it's a fairly common issue with manual trans and on the Holley forum there hasn't been a common fix.

So I have been adjusting the throttle plates and I'm now going to try and adjust the idle air control (IAC) ramp it's currently set at 1000 RPM and I'm going to set it at 1200. If I understand correctly this is the RPM in which it starts the ramp to target idle, I'm thinking dashpot to keep the carb throttle from slamming closed.

The timing control might help this also but I would really like to get it cured or almost cured by the time I connect timing control.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2019, 01:18:04 PM »
I have most of the parts for timing control just need to make the adjustable vacuum lock. One thing I have noticed is the information doesn't always say why certain things have to be done, for me understanding why helps me understand the system. The hand held will work for set-up but they recommend using a laptop for a more comprehensive timing chart.

The things that have to be done are

1. Lockout the mechanical advance (ECU will control)
2. Lockout the vacuum advance (ECU will control)
3. Remove the HEI module (coil driver replaces this function)
4. Sync magnetic trigger (tells ECU the trigger is at 45 degrees)
5. Clock rotor (ensure rotor is pointing at distributor post)
6. Add coil driver (create strong signal for coil)
7. Set static timing (ECU controlled)
8. Set WOT timing max (ECU controlled mechanical advance)
9. Set cruise timing max (ECU controlled Vacuum advance)

I'm going to start with installing the MSD module bypass and remove module. The bypass harness plugs directly into the magnetic trigger and the Sniper ECU. Next I will wire up the coil driver and its gray wire will connect to the negative side of the coil. I bought a HEI mechanical lockout plate so I just have to remove weights and springs and install this plate. Then make/install the vacuum adjustable lockout (I'll take a pic when it's done).

Once that's done I'm going to start with clocking the rotor because I have an adjustable vacuum lock that will work better as the second setup. Anyway I will put masking tape on my balancer with 0, 15, 25, and 45 degrees BTC marked out. To clock the rotor I will set the balancer at 25 degrees BTC. Mark on the distributor housing #1 and adjust the it to center on the rotor, tighten distributor bolt. The reason to do this is to have the 15-35 degrees of range and have the rotor contact the post.

Next item is to sync trigger, normally this is done first but since I do not have an adjustable rotor it make sense to do it second. I will move the balancer to the 45 BTC degree mark. Then adjust the adjustable vacuum lock to make the triangles of the trigger line up. Once this is done I will lock the adjuster. The reason for this step is to sync the ECU and trigger at a position that gives the ECU time to process and send signal to coil.

Next step is to set the timing on the ECU I'm going to start with 15 static, 33 WOT and 35 cruise. Then start engine and check to make sure it's at 15 BTC with the hand held in static timing. Then rev engine to around 4000 and make sure it stays at 15. If it moves there is an adjustment with the inductive delay that needs to be changed to get it not to move. Once that is done and it is taken off static timing it is all set up.

Honestly it is pretty straight forward once you understand the "why" I will add some pictures once I get into it, I'm also trying to install everything without removing the distributor.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

Jeremy

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #26 on: February 22, 2019, 06:07:10 PM »
Is your car a stick shift?

I went through a stalling issue with my FITECH under hard braking and it was the decel fuel cut off settings that had to be modified.  In researching my problem, I found that the decel fuel caused some issues with manual transmissions.

Based on the symptoms you are describing, it sounds like the comparable setting on your system needs to be adjusted.  As your just starting to tune the system, I'd recommend turning it off to get the basic fuel map and other issues dialed in, before worrying about fine tuning the decel fuel.

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #27 on: February 22, 2019, 07:09:28 PM »
That’s exactly the problem but I have t seen that setting in the manual or on the hand held. It might be available on the PC software but I won’t get to that until I drive it to South Dakota. I have changed my driving for now as I work through it, no down shifting to the stop lights just clutch in and brake.

Most of the Holley forum help is to data log, download to PC and correct the fuel map in those stall areas.

Tom H
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Jeremy

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2019, 07:40:09 PM »
Wish I could help you more.  In the FITECH, the DFCO is easily tuned from the handheld.  I never had any problem with normal driving (mine's a stick) but hard braking or moderate braking with the AC on would cause it to die.

It was an easy fix once I new where to look and what all the settings controlled.  First thing I did was to turn it off to make sure that was the issue.  From there it was a matter of matching the MAP settings to my car and changing the max decel rate to cover hard breaking.

I love fuel injection.  I played with the throttle settings on mine so that in normal around town driving, the IAC decel rate along with some other settings, the throttle drops to the rpm's of the next gear.  It took a bit of time to track the rpms from one gear to the other, but now if I drive at part throttle and shift consistently at 2500-3000 rpms, the throttle is almost spot on at the lower rpm by the time I get the clutch let out.

I'd stongly recommend you keep a log book in your car.  I went through every menu in the handheld and wrote down my settings.  As I change them I update the log book.  That way if something happens, you can go back to your last baseline.  Once you get things close to where you can drive it consistently, right down a diary entry every day you drive it for a while.  I found this especially important as I made changes to the settings.  I would also only make one change at a time and track it for a couple of trips or more in and around town.  It made things much easier to keep track of and how the various settings affected things.  It takes a little bit more time to get it dialed in, but its hard to know what is going on if you have more than one variable in play at a time.

Have fun with it.  Its a fun journey getting it dialed in.  Once you add timing control in, the tuning possibilities really expand.  Computerized timing control was one of the best things I did last year.  It allowed me to do things I could not have done with a conventional distributor.

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #29 on: February 24, 2019, 05:12:30 PM »
Timing control it connected and running!! I took some time today finishing up the clocking, syncing and making adjustments on the hand held. And after some frustration and head scratching I got it running properly.  I put my reference tape on the harmonic balance backwards, I did get it to run that way but not very good and it kept backfiring. I took a break and developed a new plan and went to execute it and a coworker came out. As I explained it to him that's when I realized the tape was backwards.

The new plan was to clock the rotor to the number 1 post and then figure out what degree the magnetic trigger syncs up (45 BTDC or more). The hand held allows any degree to be put in as reference angle. Mine measured out to 99.5 degrees BTDC. Which now means you wouldn't need an adjustable vacuum advance lockout (the one I made does not have enough travel).


Test drive is up next to see how well it works but I can say now that it idles better, revs better and then settles back to idle great in fact I have been able to set the idle down to 750.



« Last Edit: February 24, 2019, 07:02:12 PM by hakitup »
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #30 on: February 27, 2019, 12:05:17 PM »
Getting the timing control to work right has been harder that it should. I ended out remaking the adjustable vacuum lock with more travel to get it to a reference angle of 45. The 99 just wasn't right although in my mind it shouldn't make a difference. I was having a hard time starting and a slight surge with the 99. in the mean time my starter bendex went out. I have a summit high torque starter so it's not just a "run down to the parts store fix" I finished up the adjustment this morning and took it for a drive and it runs great the down shift stall didn't happen either. I can't wait to get a more comprehensive timing chart installed but I nee a PC for that.

If I didn't mention it before the additional pieces needed for a complete install are a Coil driver, vacuum lockout, mechanical lockout, adapter cable for a PC (you can just use the SD card but I'm afraid to remove it) you can get away without the lockouts if you buy a new distributor.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #31 on: March 12, 2019, 01:23:26 PM »
Update from the drive from California to South Dakota. The stall issue is still there it would happen coming off the freeway but was not consistent. I'm hopping with some data logging and a PC I can track it down and make the correct adjustments. I will do that once I get back there and set up the comprehensive timing map. I got 16.5 MPG and one 18.2 (almost all flat road) I was running 70-75 at about 2100-2200 RPM.

 I still haven't done to many wide open throttle runs as I needed to drive it long distance and make it. The couple that I have done it has a lean spot in about the same place my carb did, could be from timing also which I'll hit when I get back home. From what I read the data logging is where this gets fixed, I'll learn it later but I think it highlights lean spots to correct on the map then reload the corrected map and limit it's ability to make large adjustments.

 I did have to start it in super cold temps and it took some cranking but started up and I had to help it idle. The water temp said 4 degrees and once it got up to 130 plus it was fine.

Overall I'm happy as it did what I needed it to do (get the car to South Dakota and not hurt the engine) It is not a plug and play to get the most from it, still needs to be tuned some.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

Jeremy

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #32 on: March 12, 2019, 06:15:03 PM »
Congrats on the successful trip.  As you get into it more I think you'll see your MPG improve.

I got 22.7 on one leg this summer running 75 or so with the AC on.

I looked back through the thread and may have missed it, but what is your combo?  Motor/trans/rear?

gm muscle

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #33 on: March 12, 2019, 06:55:32 PM »
Tom,
I want to thank you for continuing with your updates on this relatively new product. I'm really tempted to buy a unit but it seems as though there is a lot of work also needed. Keep it coming...
1977 Trans Am stroked 400 (468)
1989 Iroc-Z28 5.7 TPI 90K original miles
1987 Monte Carlo SS LS 2/4L65e
1997 Silverado 5.7 Z71 Single Cab, Short box (daily driver)

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #34 on: March 12, 2019, 08:35:30 PM »
Congrats on the successful trip.  As you get into it more I think you'll see your MPG improve.

I got 22.7 on one leg this summer running 75 or so with the AC on.

I looked back through the thread and may have missed it, but what is your combo?  Motor/trans/rear?

I guess I never talked about it, 455 .060 over, 10.5/1, Edelbrock heads, 72 OEM dual plan, T56 .63 overdrive, 3.73 rear gear.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #35 on: March 14, 2019, 10:31:18 AM »
I keep forgetting to talk about the intank fuel pump and sending unit. No issues at all with the pump, my inline gauge shows 60 PSI. If you don't remember this pump uses no return according to Holley it circulates at the pump in the tank and just keeps constant 58-60 PSI no regulator required. Kind of expensive but made the install very easy. The sending unit works like the reman I had before. Full goes slightly past the full line and when it gets to 1/4 it reads the slosh of fuel, meaning if I turn right it goes down and left it goes up. Kind of freaked me out a couple of times looking over and it was close to E when it was just at 1/4.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #36 on: April 20, 2019, 09:01:23 AM »
Latest update, I’m home now and decided to clean the snow drive remnants from the car. Not sure if I mentioned before but the car needed help warming up when the water temp was single digits. By help I mean a little more throttle, since I haven’t started it in five weeks I wondered how it would do. Well it fired right up and ran fine, even able to move it around without it being fully warm.

Since I wanted to work the timing and possibly the stall issue I bought a cheap new laptop and downloaded the software for it. Only issue now is the SD card won’t fit the new computer so I ordered the cable to connect directly. I thought I would build the new timing map but unfortunately it has to be connected and getting base info from the hand held so I’m stuck until the cable comes in.

The other issue to address before I get back to testing is the transmission. Once I get that worked out/fixed I’ll update.

Tom H
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

hakitup

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #37 on: May 13, 2019, 09:16:31 AM »
Yesterday I got to play around with the car and new software some, I’ll drive it today. But here is some good info on why you will eventually need a computer and software. The first picture is of the hand held timing chart. As you can see it’s very abrupt and the hand held doesn’t allow anything but this type of chart. The second picture is the softwares blending of the numbers (12 static, 32 wot and 38 cruise) the more I hit the smooth button the more it blends them. There is another button to work specific areas but I haven’t figured that on out yet. All the fuel charts look the same way, very abrupt changes I’ve smoothed them out too.

Tom H







« Last Edit: May 13, 2019, 09:20:23 AM by hakitup »
"I don't know what you call it, I only know the sound it makes when it lies!!"

FormTA

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #38 on: May 13, 2019, 11:21:24 AM »
Well that should really make an improvement.  I'll really need to get into tuning...
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

Names, Luke. If I hear anyone telling me they're my father....

djustice

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Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #39 on: May 14, 2019, 01:33:34 AM »
I just been doing the same with my fuel map, smoothing and experimenting with AFR ratio targets, unfortunatley  my gas tank has deveoped a leak (i suspect fubar lockring on the gastank) i have orderd a new hyfuel gastank that i am currently waiting on. i have no timing controll as of yet, but plan on later as i broke the piggy-bank with efi and a new gastank.
would be intrsting to see what timingmap you end up with and possibly afr targets.
1973 Firebird formula 400 W/YC code 455 (73 casting)
6x-8 heads, hyperfuel efi gastank, scorpion 1.5 Roller rockers, holley sniper efi, edelbrock performer inntake, Headman 28150 headers 1 3/4" primary, Pypes SGF11R exhaust, cam unknown, alu radiator w/twin 12" fans. Yukon duragrip posi w/3.42 gears.

Re: Sniper EFI
« Reply #39 on: May 14, 2019, 01:33:34 AM »
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