Author Topic: Brake problem, but not a TA...  (Read 474 times)

DeCaff2007

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Brake problem, but not a TA...
« on: December 02, 2018, 02:55:58 PM »
Before I get banned, it's a Jeep.

Quick question about the brakes.  Why would the pedal be rock solid at idle, but when coming to a stop, it goes limp like a piece of cheese.

We just bled the CRAP out of the brakes.  The fluid in the master cylinder was near jet black.  It's all nice and clear now, I can see no leaks at all. 

Just if it's sitting there idling, it's got normal, rock solid pedal.  Get it up to 30 or so mph and brake and it will stop the vehicle, but the pedal is a sponge.

Any suggestions?
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

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79GoldnTan

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2018, 06:10:32 PM »
Anti lock system malfunction??? The 01 Silverado I had developed a similar problem,pedal would go soft just before coming to a stop. Pulled the fuse fore the anti lock and all was well. Put 250,000 miles on that truck,more than half was with no fuse. Got used to the lite being on.
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DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2018, 06:23:56 PM »
https://youtu.be/FE6uAOkCF4U

Watch above link....
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

aussieta

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2018, 07:02:52 PM »
what year jeep
disc/disc or disc/drum
try removing hose to power booster and capping hose
you will have no power assist, but may be able to help with diagnosis
my gut feeling is power booster
1978 Y84 W72 WS6

79GoldnTan

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2018, 07:07:11 PM »
Yes,mine was not a bleeding problem, tho we tryed that, but an abs computer problem. Pulling the fuse stopped it. Just a thought.
79 solar gold    
461.   Factory 4 speed
PTFB SFC
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Lots O Fun

Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2018, 07:07:11 PM »

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2018, 07:30:12 PM »
what year jeep
disc/disc or disc/drum
try removing hose to power booster and capping hose
you will have no power assist, but may be able to help with diagnosis
my gut feeling is power booster

It's an 03 Liberty.  Disc rear with shoes for the parking brake.

NO ABS, gents.

We pulled the old master cylinder and it bled the EXACT same way as the new one.  Either way there's a new master cylinder going on.  Old one is in the garbage.

Gonna re-bleed the whole system this week (friggen work getting in the way). 

I got my truck back from the body shop tonight :-) so the vehicle situation just got less stressful.  We now have 2 running vehicles again.  Getting these brakes fixed will mean 3.  I'd like to have 4, but the womans' wagon still has no transmission.  It's $1500 to rebuild that 2004r  :shock:  She didn't pay that much for the car plus the new engine.

1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

1976 SE SF

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2018, 08:12:03 PM »
One of your rubber brake lines might be ballooning when it's working extra hard in motion. My old 2500hd did that in the front.
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DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2018, 09:29:06 PM »
Guys, I know this is a Trans Am specific forum, and we all are heavily geared towards GM, but this time it's a Jeep.....

If anyone watched that video, the bleeding seemed to be complete.  I mean we didn't see any more air bubbles, but I don't like how the fluid just circulated back and forth like that.

The MC is now back on the vehicle.  I guess we will see what happens.

1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

79merlin

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2018, 06:21:08 AM »
What happens if when bench bleeding instead of letting it come all the way back out at once you keep pumping it letting it come back a little more each time? Or better yet add a check valve to the end of the rubber hose. Then again air in the system should present itself both at idle and while moving.

This may be a dumb question, but when you bled them did you get all of that nasty old fluid out? That stuff floating around in the fluid can probably cause weird stuff...

1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2018, 06:49:47 AM »
DeCaff working on your problem... what were the brakes doing prior?
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1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
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1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2018, 07:06:27 AM »
DeCaff,
Without knowing more particulars did you know there was a safety recall on the brake booster hose on Jeep Liberties depending on engine size/model?
Also, if the brake pedal is hard at idle it points to the booster/hose.  You could try bleeding the brakes while the car is idling.  If the pedal is hard your not getting all the air out.  There would still be pockets left in the line.  Try that.
USAF 1st Sgt Retired

1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
1973 455 TA, Red
1976 400 TA sold
1978 Black W-72 TA
2006 Chevy 2500 HD Turbo Diesel
2011 3500 Chevy Turbo Diesel
2012 BMW X5

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2018, 08:10:36 AM »
What happens if when bench bleeding instead of letting it come all the way back out at once you keep pumping it letting it come back a little more each time? Or better yet add a check valve to the end of the rubber hose. Then again air in the system should present itself both at idle and while moving.

This may be a dumb question, but when you bled them did you get all of that nasty old fluid out? That stuff floating around in the fluid can probably cause weird stuff...

Yes.  We got all that syrup out of there and it's all clean, clear fluid now.  However, the MC in the video is a brand new unit.

I may try the check valve idea.

DeCaff working on your problem... what were the brakes doing prior?

The pedal was getting more and more soft by the day.... yet no leaks anywhere.  Bleeding neither helped nor made the problem worse.  No fluid loss, either.  She would have let it go longer, but yesterday the pedal pretty much went to the floor.  At idle, rock hard.

DeCaff,
Without knowing more particulars did you know there was a safety recall on the brake booster hose on Jeep Liberties depending on engine size/model?
Also, if the brake pedal is hard at idle it points to the booster/hose.  You could try bleeding the brakes while the car is idling.  If the pedal is hard your not getting all the air out.  There would still be pockets left in the line.  Try that.

We've had that Jeep at the dealer several times for safety recalls.  The brake booster has not been one of them.  I'll look into it.

FWIW, I Always bleed brakes @ idle.  There's no power assist otherwise.

1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2018, 09:11:32 AM »
K just throwing ideas out there, still trying to find something on it.
USAF 1st Sgt Retired

1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
1973 455 TA, Red
1976 400 TA sold
1978 Black W-72 TA
2006 Chevy 2500 HD Turbo Diesel
2011 3500 Chevy Turbo Diesel
2012 BMW X5

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2018, 10:24:05 AM »
K just throwing ideas out there, still trying to find something on it.

Yes and I appreciate the replies.  By all means, keep them coming.

I wish I could throw that new MC on tonight, but I'll be at work all effing day.
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2018, 10:29:19 AM »
If you have a hard pedal when you start and than it goes down it's most likely not a booster problem but a hydraulic problem.  If there's no leak it still sounds like a bleeding problem.  Again don't know how you bleed it just throwing this idea out there.  Did you bleed the brakes from the left rear first? than r/r, l/f, r/f? Just asking it does make a difference.
USAF 1st Sgt Retired

1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
1973 455 TA, Red
1976 400 TA sold
1978 Black W-72 TA
2006 Chevy 2500 HD Turbo Diesel
2011 3500 Chevy Turbo Diesel
2012 BMW X5

Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2018, 10:29:19 AM »



DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #15 on: December 03, 2018, 11:19:16 AM »
If you have a hard pedal when you start and than it goes down it's most likely not a booster problem but a hydraulic problem.  If there's no leak it still sounds like a bleeding problem.  Again don't know how you bleed it just throwing this idea out there.  Did you bleed the brakes from the left rear first? than r/r, l/f, r/f? Just asking it does make a difference.

Correct.  Why does it make a difference?
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

1979 Black and Tan

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #16 on: December 03, 2018, 01:37:32 PM »
Pull the Drums off and check the adjuster ...sometimes it gets gummed up and does not automatically adjust ..turn the adjuster screw until the drum fits snug on the shoes..sometimes if your rear brakes are not self adjusting and you do not have enough piston travel to push your shoes onto the drum before you fill up your piston

 ..also check he drum pistons for wetness

photos please
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1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2018, 02:18:31 PM »
The left rear is the longest takes the most fluid and would trap the most air so on and so forth for the rest till you get the LF.  You may see air come out but its such a long run their more chance of air pockets.
USAF 1st Sgt Retired

1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
1973 455 TA, Red
1976 400 TA sold
1978 Black W-72 TA
2006 Chevy 2500 HD Turbo Diesel
2011 3500 Chevy Turbo Diesel
2012 BMW X5

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #18 on: December 03, 2018, 03:22:41 PM »
Alright I'll check all those things.  It's going to have to be tomorrow night >:-(
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

79merlin

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2018, 03:48:33 PM »
I never bled brakes with the car running. Not sure it would make a difference, since you already said there is no ABS system. It wouldn't hurt to try bleeding them with the car off...

One other thought is if you have one of those infrared thermometers. When out testing brakes hit the rotors on both sides and see if one side is hotter / cooler than the other. That will help you determine if its a problem with one side or if its a system as a whole problem.


 

1979 Black and Tan

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2018, 04:35:45 PM »
I never bled brakes with the car running. Not sure it would make a difference, since you already said there is no ABS system. It wouldn't hurt to try bleeding them with the car off...

One other thought is if you have one of those infrared thermometers. When out testing brakes hit the rotors on both sides and see if one side is hotter / cooler than the other. That will help you determine if its a problem with one side or if its a system as a whole problem.

if his foot is going all the way to the floor..it is very likely that his rear shoes are not contacting the drum at all .
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DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2018, 09:33:10 PM »
Update.  Bled the literal "F" out of the new master cylinder.  Installed.  Bled the brakes again until the cows came home. 

Test drive....pedal went straight to the floor, regardless of engine running/idling/revving/whatever.

Oh and now the BRAKE light won't shut off....  (bad MC out of the box?)  Yes, the float connector is plugged it.

GRRRRRRRRRRRR  :evil: :evil: :evil:
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

79merlin

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2018, 06:22:42 AM »
I had the brake light stuck on with my TA. Was a problem with the prop valve. It has slid to shut off fluid to the rear and the valve didn't want to release. To "fix it" I had to stab the brake pedal several times real hard. Is it possible that your prop valve is stuck not letting fluid go to the front brakes? That would sure make sense on why they feel like garbage when moving...

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2018, 06:29:23 AM »
I had the brake light stuck on with my TA. Was a problem with the prop valve. It has slid to shut off fluid to the rear and the valve didn't want to release. To "fix it" I had to stab the brake pedal several times real hard. Is it possible that your prop valve is stuck not letting fluid go to the front brakes? That would sure make sense on why they feel like garbage when moving...

I wish that were the case.  All four corners can bleed freely. 

I've noticed a button on the prop valve.  I researched it.  Turns out it's a "reset" button.  I pressed it and nothing happened. 

There's also what looks like a check ball on another part of it.  Maybe I'll mess with that and see what happens.
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #24 on: December 05, 2018, 09:34:29 AM »
I just thought of a way to tell me where the problem is.  When I blocked off the old master cylinder (plugged up the ports with 3/8" X 24 threaded plugs), the pedal was rock hard no matter what we did.  That right there should have told me the MC was fine.

Why don't I just plug all 4 lines from the proportioning valve, one by one, and see which gives a hard pedal, and which gives a soft pedal.

That should tell me which corner to look at in detail.

1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #25 on: December 05, 2018, 02:11:09 PM »
DeCaff, The new master cylinder could be bad out of the box it happens.  I never plugged each line but you have nothing to lose.  Once I purchased a new MC for my 69 FB and the brakes kept locking up turned out it was the wrong one but looking at it you couldn't tell or see any differences.  Hang in there.
USAF 1st Sgt Retired

1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
1973 455 TA, Red
1976 400 TA sold
1978 Black W-72 TA
2006 Chevy 2500 HD Turbo Diesel
2011 3500 Chevy Turbo Diesel
2012 BMW X5

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #26 on: December 06, 2018, 03:02:44 PM »
Ok update, and I'm ready to friggen set this Jeep ablaze.

I plugged the master cylinder lines...  ROCK HARD pedal, but the BRAKE light is still on.  I swapped the reservoirs and that fixed the problem lol.

So......  a buddy came over and we found a few questionable parts of the whole brake system.  The front hydraulic hoses seemed to be seeping from the copper o-rings connecting to the calipers.  Also, the front driver caliper couldn't be bled.  If we cracked the bleeder (with a hose on it), brake fluid started dripping from the bleeder threads.  We said screw it and replaced the hydraulic hose (which was complete rust) and caliper. 

So, we bled the whole system until my buddies thighs were burning.  When I sealed the last bleeder, he couldn't even press the pedal it was so hard.

Turn the key......  the pedal went 90% limp.  It barely stopped the vehicle.  GRRRRRR WTF?!?!?

We checked over everything again.  It looks like the fittings coming from the master cylinder are seeping.  They are pretty friggen tight.  I'm not sure they can go any further.

Time to walk away for a bit.  I'm aggravated and my garage smells like brake fluid  :evil:

The woman said let it go for today.  I just might.......................

So does this mean I have to bleed the MC again, since there is fluid seeping from those fittings?
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

79merlin

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #27 on: December 07, 2018, 06:27:01 AM »
If fluid can get out then air can get in. So I think you should re-bleed the MC.
I have one of these for bleeding brakes, and I like it. If you have access to an air compressor you might want to invest in one. It beats the heck out of having a helper pump the pedal...
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #28 on: December 07, 2018, 09:16:59 AM »
I'll keep that in mind. 

I've acquired another master cylinder from a wrecked 05 Liberty.  It's dry as a bone so maybe I messed up the old one somehow.

Here we go again...
« Last Edit: December 07, 2018, 03:20:57 PM by DeCaff2007 »
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2018, 03:32:56 PM »
Update.  That "new" master cylinder did make some difference.  I bled the "new" one (using metal fittings this time, not the cheap plastic junk that came with the one from AZ) and installed it.  I then used a redneck one man bleeder and went around all four corners.  The pedal still is awfully spongy, but at least it didn't just go straight to the floor. 

The biggest problem I am having is that when I crack the bleeder on the driver rear, fluid comes straight out past the threads and down the side of the caliper.  Well obviously it's sucking air right back in that way, too.
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #30 on: December 07, 2018, 03:37:31 PM »
Update.  That "new" master cylinder did make some difference.  I bled the "new" one (using metal fittings this time, not the cheap plastic junk that came with the one from AZ) and installed it.  I then used a redneck one man bleeder and went around all four corners.  The pedal still is awfully spongy, but at least it didn't just go straight to the floor. 

The biggest problem I am having is that when I crack the bleeder on the driver rear, fluid comes straight out past the threads and down the side of the caliper.  Well obviously it's sucking air right back in that way, too.  Frikken thing is brand new, too.

Time to find a second person who doesn't mind being bored for a hour.....
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

aussieta

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #31 on: December 07, 2018, 06:22:56 PM »
thats when you need a second person
have them push the pedal firmly
then you crack the fitting and nip it back up before they run out of travel
and repeat
1978 Y84 W72 WS6

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #32 on: December 07, 2018, 06:52:13 PM »
thats when you need a second person
have them push the pedal firmly
then you crack the fitting and nip it back up before they run out of travel
and repeat

Yes.  First thing in the morning.  My Dad will be assisting and the woman will be, too.

I picked up a pack of new bleeder vlaves (I rounded out the one on the front passenger).

Right now, I have errands to run and laundry to do.  LoL life must continue even though one insignificant Jeep has brake problems.

I have my truck back on the road and we still have the Blazer, so I don't have to stress about this too much.

A guy at work asked me if I've replaced the brake booster.  Wouldn't a failed booster mean a rock hard pedal?
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

Jack

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #33 on: December 08, 2018, 06:47:09 AM »
Sorry can't help but I'm amazed by the fact that a simple job like this can go so wrong. Good luck, keep us posted.




Regards, Jack

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #34 on: December 08, 2018, 07:34:39 AM »
Sorry can't help but I'm amazed by the fact that a simple job like this can go so wrong. Good luck, keep us posted.

You and me friggin both.  I'm still half convinced that the MC isn't fully bled, because when connecting it to the rest of the system....  yeah fluid will leak back out (letting air in) until the fitting are tight.  There's really NO way around that.
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

DD78TA

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #35 on: December 08, 2018, 08:25:15 AM »
Just read this thread and sorry you're having such trouble. Someone mentioned above to pull off the rear drum and check the adjuster. I don't know if you did this or not but it's a good idea. If the shoe is so far from touching the drum it can take the full motion of the brake pedal to get them to reach the drum and stop the car. That wouldn't explain why the front brakes don't work, but I would check it. You don't want the shoes rubbing the drums when the brakes are off, but almost.

Also assieta has the right process for bleeding the brakes. Foot pressing on pedal, then open bleeder, then close bleeder before foot gets to the floor (or certainly before the person lets up on the pedal), once bleeder is firmly closed then let foot up off brake, and repeat. You don't want to see fluid going backward. Sorry if you have been doing all that, but just saying!!

This last tip is kind of a side bar, but is it possible that the car had silicone brake fluid and now has had regular brake fluid put in it? Or vice versa. When I switched my system over to silicone I thought I had my calipers all cleaned out of the old stuff pretty good but I didn't. The two don't mix well and it caused my front calipers not to work as well as they should. I took them off eventually and it was like clumpy oil and water coming out and that didn't come out with just bleeding them. Good luck sir!

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #36 on: December 08, 2018, 10:02:06 AM »
Rear disc, non abs.  Thanks for the advice, but it's moot point.

1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #37 on: December 08, 2018, 10:19:21 PM »
Update:  Finally getting somewhere with the mysterious brake system from Hell.  My Dad and I threw on the j/y MC and re-bled the whole system TWICE, using one person to crack the bleeder, one person to work the pedal.

This time, the pedal didn't go all the way to the floor.  There is about a half a pedal, and it's weak at that, but it stops the Jeep.  Better than what I had before, which was zero pedal, right to the floor.

I did notice that while bleeding that j/y MC, it seemed easier to press the rod into the cylinder than the previous two MC's. 

Now that it at least does stop, I can move on to other things that need to be done.

So far I have 3 new MC's, 4 new bleeder valves, 2 new hydraulic lines, new front driver side caliper, about 5 gallons of brake fluid, and 3 days of aggravation put into this thing... and it's still not 100%.

On the advice from others:  I have checked the front and rear pads.  They are all near brand new.  Some have said to make sure the shoes are adjusted right.  While this thing has 4 wheel disc, it DOES have shoes for the mechanical parking brake.  That parking brake is controlled by a hand lever and has nothing hydraulic connected to it.  It's correctly adjusted, but even if it weren't, it would have nothing to do with the foot brake.

As for silicone brake fluid, I've never heard of such a thing.  I've been using Auto Zone Dot 3 brake fluid for as long as the woman has owned that Jeep and there's never been a problem until just a few days ago.

Regardless, I'm at a loss for what the problem could still be here. 

I'm starting to wonder if the brake booster is the issue???
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

1sgtretired

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #38 on: December 10, 2018, 08:54:44 AM »
DeCaff been away just reread everything, after all the bleeding it sounds like you found some seepage around the copper washers and bleeder valves.  Like someone mentioned if fluid can come out air can get in.  The two person team is the way to go.  If the booster is bad it would be rock hard trying to push it.  Doesn't sound like that's the problem.  Also sound like you had a lot of junk coming out of the calipers and hoses.  With the new MC you sound like its on the right track.  I would drive it a bit than bleed the whole system again.
USAF 1st Sgt Retired

1970 RAM AIR III TA. White
1972 455 HO, Blue
1973 Formula, Functional Ram Air set up
1973 455 TA, Red
1976 400 TA sold
1978 Black W-72 TA
2006 Chevy 2500 HD Turbo Diesel
2011 3500 Chevy Turbo Diesel
2012 BMW X5

DeCaff2007

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Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #39 on: December 10, 2018, 08:34:21 PM »
DeCaff been away just reread everything, after all the bleeding it sounds like you found some seepage around the copper washers and bleeder valves.  Like someone mentioned if fluid can come out air can get in.  The two person team is the way to go.  If the booster is bad it would be rock hard trying to push it.  Doesn't sound like that's the problem.  Also sound like you had a lot of junk coming out of the calipers and hoses.  With the new MC you sound like its on the right track.  I would drive it a bit than bleed the whole system again.

Strange, when the booster on my TA was bad, the pedal went straight to the floor and I heard a WHOOSHH sound.  Different scenario, I suppose.

Yeah about that MC, I'm contemplating getting a brand spanking new one straight from Mopar.  Wash, rinse, repeat.

For right now, her Jeep is actually about to hit up the body shop.  The driver rocker panel and door are completely rotted right through.  We already have the parts, but I'm no body man.

In the meantime, the Firebird is either getting sold or junked.  I don't have room nor time for it anymore.  It's a decision I will come to regret in the summer, I know, but all of these cars are getting costly.  The FB is fun, don't get me wrong, but the Blazer is more versatile (and just as bad on gas lol).

I'm actually going to post it in the Classified section here very soon.
1976 T/A 400, 4-speed swap.... 

Check out my resto thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=48626.0

It's all trial and error until something lines up...

Re: Brake problem, but not a TA...
« Reply #39 on: December 10, 2018, 08:34:21 PM »
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