Author Topic: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher  (Read 60526 times)

FormTA

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #600 on: September 05, 2018, 07:04:31 PM »
I have a 67 and like the 67 rs tail lights but I guess I can see why you'd like the 68. I should buy that 5.3 from you... If I wasn't try to finish my T/A, build another barn and th list goes on....

Anyway, I always enjoy reading your posts because they are informative, have good pictures, explanations and have good progress. Keep it up. It looks awesome.
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

TATurbo

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #601 on: September 05, 2018, 09:25:16 PM »
Looking good Ryan!  Your info on test firing the engine was helpful. And it got me thinking maybe I should try turning mine over sooner rather than later? 
I have a couple questions though...
1) Is it 'OK' to fire the motor up for a couple minutes without coolant? (I don't have a radiator yet)
    1b.  If I do fire it without the radiator, should the accessory belt be removed (so as not to drive the dry water pump?
2) What about the transmission fluid cooling lines?
     With no radiator, you don't have those lines connected right? Do you have those plugged? Or looped somehow? Or do you not have the trans filled up?

I thought I had a couple others, but I can't remember them.
 

Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #602 on: September 06, 2018, 06:00:19 AM »
Thanks 76455sd. Yeah I'm more concerned about having functional tail lights at this point than what year they are. That will be moved to my winter list.

FormTA, the 5.3 is for sale now. :)

TATurbo,

1) there aren't any issues with running an engine without coolant for under a minute. If you run it any longer than that the issue is with no coolant the cylinder walls heat up rapidly with no way to dissipate the heat. I didn't have my accessories hooked for the same reason as you. I didn't want the water pump to spin dry. Plus I don't have my pulley pressed onto the power steering pump and didn't want to test too many variables at once.

2) I have a 6 speed in my car so I don't have any cooler lines and I currently don't have a transmission hooked to the motor during the test fire. I wanted to hook as little to the motor as possible so I didn't have to undo it if the motor was junk. If I were you and wanted to test fire the motor without the radiator hooked up I would hook both lines coming from the trans together with a temporary hose. If not when you spin the engine over, it will spray fluid all over. You wouldn't want to run the engine without having any fluid in the trans as it will be spinning your trans even if it's in park.

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #603 on: September 06, 2018, 08:16:31 PM »
Thanks for clarifying Ryan!  I'll just wait I think...Should only be a few more weeks.  After 3 years off work, a few weeks wont put me behind.

Appreciate the feedback.
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #604 on: September 10, 2018, 09:03:11 AM »
Any opportunity that I had this weekend I spent thrashing on this car. I didn't end up getting as many pictures as I wanted, but that's how it goes sometimes. Late last week I swapped over the oil pans to get the Holley pan on the new motor. I bolted the motor and transmission together prior to torquing down the oil pan to use it as a guide to ensure the pan is flush with the motor. This is outlined in the Holley instructions, but they recommended something flat. I figured since the trans is already out to just use it.



While the motor was back out I took the opportunity to make a slight notch to the motor mount for better access to the low mount A/C compressor. Much easier to get to now.



Next up was swapping over the new LS7 clutch and flywheel.



Then I slid the transmission back together, re-checked to be sure that the slave cylinder was all tight and got it torqued down. Then I reinstalled the whole assembly.



Now, there is a fairly large gap in progress. It took me a while to re-install everything back to the way it was. I put the core support back in after I welded two captured nuts that had broken off. One was in the passenger side fender mount and the other I had to relocate the fender brace. It wasn't centered, so I moved it where it should have been. I also pressed on the PS pulley, bolted on the new tensioner, new Gates belt, shimmed idler pulley, and other misc. parts to get the engine to run with coolant.

Once that was done, I finally was able to install the dual pass aluminum radiator I picked up at Carlisle. It fit great and looks so much better than the stock one with the upper hose mount on the passenger side. It gives much more room for the CAI.



Only complaint I have with the radiator is that there was no option for a manual transmission with no built in cooler.



Here is some video evidence.

VID_20180909_175345 by Ryan Babcock, on Flickr

Overall, I'm super happy with the progress this weekend. The only thing holding me back from driving it again was that I need to bleed my clutch and fill the trans with fluid. I'm hoping to get those taken care of soon, and it will be mobile again. Should hear back this week from my glass guy. Once the glass is set, I need to install my shocks (possibly modify shock plate for rear disks), exhaust, headlights, wipers. Then get my front end back together and make an appointment for an inspection. If all goes well, I'm hoping in the next 2 weeks I can legally drive it down the road! Keeping my fingers crossed.

Ryan

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #604 on: September 10, 2018, 09:03:11 AM »

FormTA

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #605 on: September 10, 2018, 11:12:49 AM »
Man you make quick work of things. Looking great. Hang in there you still have some nice days left in this year to drive it.
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

737driver

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #606 on: September 12, 2018, 11:22:08 PM »
Really coming along quite well! keep up the great work!
Jim
1979 Trans Am- Heritage Brown -W72 (Pontiac 400) -4Speed-WS6
1972 LeMans Convertible
1972Firebird
1971 Firebird
1970 Firebird

scarebird

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #607 on: September 12, 2018, 11:34:10 PM »
... Once the glass is set, I need to install my shocks (possibly modify shock plate for rear disks)...
Ryan

Why would you need to mod the shock plate?

FormTA

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #608 on: September 13, 2018, 06:00:21 AM »
To move the shock inboard to clear the backing plate/ caliper from the disc conversion.
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #609 on: September 13, 2018, 06:14:32 AM »
FormTA is right, I will likely have to move the lower placement of the shock to clear the caliper. I could have made life easy and used two LH assemblies to clear the staggered shocks, but I like the symmetry so I chose the hard way.

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

mrbandit

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #610 on: September 13, 2018, 06:36:03 AM »
Ryan, I can't remember if you did this on your last LS build, but I wanted to mention that the oil fill extension tube comes out of the cover and the oil screw cap screws into the hole previously occupied by the fill tube.  We just built my brothers 6.0 LS stroker motor and that is what we did with his.  The extension never bothered me before until he did that and the look is so much cleaner. 

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #611 on: September 14, 2018, 05:55:52 AM »
I tried deleting it and maybe it's because I'm using the flatter LS1 style coils, but without the extension on there you cannot turn the cap. When I did it originally I had the cap on first and put the coils on, but when I went to fill it I had to remove the coils to get it off. I'll have to look into it more this winter.

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #612 on: September 14, 2018, 09:43:41 AM »
I sent an email to DSE about the springs and I didn't realize it but the springs are designed to work with their lower control arms which have a drop pocket in them. So that is the reason that mine appeared to actually lift the front of the car. I they are going to get back to me with a ratio for cutting the spring and what that translates into a drop. I've read that most springs in that rate translate to a 1:2 ratio, but I'll wait to see what they say.

In other news, I got my clutch bled last night and the issue that I was having with the cam code P0343 was resolved by swapping the two outer wires for the cam sensor. This was causing the car to run in Open Loop which made it run very rich as it defaults to the conservative tables. I still have a lot of work to do with the tune, but now that I fixed the cam sensor wiring it fires right up in half a crank.

Other issues I've been having is that I was getting a lot of pressure pulling from the PVC ports, but I realized that I only had the dirty air port coming from the LS6 valley cover, but no fresh air intake. I have since connected my passenger side valve cover port to the fresh air port on my TB. I'm hoping that solves some of my issue.

Someone must be looking out for me because when I was working on the car last night I decided to tackle the rear shock plate and see how it will interfere with my LS1 rear brakes. I chose not to use two LH assemblies because I wanted to keep the symmetry between the sides, and I just didn't like the thought of it. So I had every intention of having to modify the shock plate to relocate the shock, but it actually fit without any modifications. The only thing that I had to do was re-route my brake hose and will eventually need to bend up a new line. WIN!!



The flash really makes things look dirty... Not that bad in person.



Hard to see, but there is plenty of room around the shock and the caliper for it to float properly. The pads that are in it are new so that is as far out as they will ever get.





Here is the driver's side. Went in without any issues.



And from the rear. While I was swapping the plates I also cut down the U-bolts to a more manageable size. They were quite long before as they were for a truck lift kit of some sort.



Overall, stoked that the rear shocks were that easy. I was thinking it was going to be much more complicated. Now the biggest things I need to finish before I can get it inspected and drive it are a windsheild, wiring for signals/headlights, re-install front end and fabricating an exhaust. Unfortunately the glass guy was supposed to come today and install, but they canceled yesterday so it won't be until about two weeks when they can come next. So my goal now is to get everything else done so I can maybe coordinate the glass being installed in the morning and an inspection that afternoon.

Cheers,
Ryan

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

Re: 1968 Camaro Resto-mod 6.0/6 speed; Project Penny Pincher
« Reply #612 on: September 14, 2018, 09:43:41 AM »
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