Author Topic: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project  (Read 41447 times)

Nexus

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #320 on: February 10, 2019, 06:42:15 AM »
I love reclaimed/distress looking furniture. Dude this turned out awesome. I redid my bedroom with 100 year old reclaimed wood from a steam bath we had on our property. Great idea for the inlay as well because it breaks up the white wash look a bit and gives it some balance. I love it
Charlie

79 Esprit but like many, it will be a T/A clone
(18 years and counting but still have her)

roadking77

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #321 on: February 10, 2019, 12:19:35 PM »
Furniture came out great! Not sure how accurate the road trip contact info is on here, but might be a good idea before you go to post a map of your route looking for members who will be in the general area.
Tire rack guy balanced my wheels, in fact I was impressed at all of the equipment he had in his van. I have bought tires for 3 vehicles so far.
Finished!
77 T/A - I will Call this one DONE!
79 TATA 4sp-Next Project?
79 TATA - Lost to Fire!
86 Grand Prix - Sold
85 T/A - Sold
85 Fiero - Sold
82 Firebird - Sold
'38-CZ 250
'39-BSA Gold Star
'49-Triumph 350
'52-Ariel Red Hunter
'66-BSA Lightning
'01-HD RoadKing

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #322 on: February 14, 2019, 12:26:08 PM »
Furnature and LS swaps, this guy can do it all! Seriously though, that cabinet looks terrific. Nice work.

Side note, you going to Spring Carlisle?

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #323 on: February 17, 2019, 10:45:31 PM »
Thanks guys.  I'm no craftsman, but I've always like building stuff.  My dad was always doing stuff around the house.  He taught me how to use a saw pretty young.
I hadn't thought about Carlisle's spring meet Ryan. I just checked, looks like it's April 24th?  If that' the case I probably wont go.  I think I'm going to set a date for getting the TA to my Brother in TN.  I'm shooting for the week Ty's on spring break, which is that week before Easter.

Spent a lot of time cleaning stuff the past few days...Got the Bumper and supports cleaned up...
  IMG_3772 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

And the hood hinges...
IMG_3774 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Along with a couple miscellaneous front fascia brackets...
IMG_3815 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I painted the brackets, bumper and supports and got those installed...
IMG_3814 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The hood hinges are zinc plated or something.  They cleaned up OK, except for some over-spray from a prior paint job.  I'll install them as is with new hardware (a couple of the J-Nuts broke when we pulled 'em off.)  I had some new hardware in a front-end hardware kit I had purchased.  But had to figure out and get a couple of the larger speed nuts from Pep-Boys.  Here's the comparison and sizes for reference.
The left side shows old and new hinge to fender hardware.
Right side is old and new hinge to hood bolts.  Not an exact match but I'm pretty sure the new one (on the right, right...with some rust ont he tip from test fitting) will work OK:
IMG_3763 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Installed the plastic fascia support/bumper cover...I riveted the two outer points on each side (same as they were originally).  But my rivet gun wouldn't reach deep enough for the two center holes.  So I put bolts in those positions...
IMG_3819 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr


And BAM!
IMG_3831 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Front fascia's on! Whoo Hoo.   
Working on this part reminded me how important bagging, labeling and taking pics of everything is.  This was one of the first parts we took off the car 4 years ago.  Hardware was tagged, but not as organized as  some of the later work.  And, because it was 4 years ago memory of how it went together is faintest.  That said...we did a good enough job organizing things that we were able to figure it out with some help from the service and assembly manuals.

We also finished up the stereo install....
I had to fabricate a metal plate to support the 'cage' for the new stereo install because my original radio holes were damaged by thieves when the car was stolen back in the early 90's.  I used the same metal I used from the radiator support.  I also used  radio delete plate as a rough template and the cage to size the inner hole...
IMG_3775 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Then used that as a template to mark for cutting away the plastic that was left from the original stereo position...
IMG_3777 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I painted that metal plate to match the dash color and glued it into position after cutting away the plastic just enough to leave that inner hole.  I didn't think the little tab bend for the stereo 'cage' install would support the stereo.  So I had figured and positioned the stock stereo support bracket behind the stereo...I bent it straight and mounted it at the rear screw hole for the ashtray support.  Turns out it wasn't needed.  The metal plate and that stupid 'cage' with the bent tabs holds just fine...

IMG_3822 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The stock radio trim plate I got didn't fit well.  I think maybe the late dash stereo position is a different size as earlier?  And/or It could be the dash cover I have installed made that area just that much smaller.  Whatever...I'm happy with how it looks as is...So I wont sweat it.

Finally, I installed that amp in the trunk:
IMG_3825 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I wasn't happy with the stereo sound with just the head unit and 4 speakers.   The amp helps a lot.  My old Spark-O-Matics sound pretty good.  The sound is nice with all 4 speakers working.  But...I think I'm going to need to add a small sub-woofer down the road.  The base isn't 'punchy' enough for my taste.

So...I'm real close to being able to put some miles on this thing...
This week I'll get the front end buttoned up...lights installed and everything and get the new tires installed.   
Alignment, then to the exhaust shop. 

So close!

Thanks for checking in!

Take care.

-Tom





Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #324 on: February 22, 2019, 11:46:16 PM »
This week I dug the hood out from the corner it's been sitting in for 5 years now...

IMG_3840 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Got everyone together and we were able to get it installed yesterday evening...
IMG_3842 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Since the weather was decent today, and now that all the body parts are on I pulled it out and gave it a quick wash this afternoon.  It cleaned up nice...
1981 Black and Red TA by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Hah...Just kidding of course...(Thanks to whomever TA that is above! I love the red and black. Can't wait to get my body and paint work done!)
After getting the hood attached to the car last night,  I spent my 3 hours of garage time this evening tweaking the front end and the hood just enough for it to close and open 'OK'...
IMG_3855 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Well, I guess it wasn't a full 3 hours...I also checked the torque on all the body and suspension bolts and test fit coolant overflow reservoir, to replace the water bottle I have in there now.    Tomorrow morning I'll be taking it for it's first drive (with an actual destination in mind) since 1996!   I'm taking it to get an alignment at a local shop.

If you have 30 seconds...Below is a link to a time lapse style video of pics I took of the restoration.  The video starts about a year in, and runs up to tonight.  Wish I would've started taking pics earlier, but I think it's sorta cool.   I guess this is the end of the video since Body and paint will be done elsewhere.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGTqf3DM8dI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGTqf3DM8dI</a>
If you don't see the video embed above, try Firefox or Chrome or you can link to it here: https://youtu.be/OGTqf3DM8dI

I'm curios to see how it drives after the alignment.  Honestly, the short trips I've taking through my subdivision thus far have not been comfortable.  The ride seems 'choppy' or 'tight', almost how I'd expect a car that's lowered too much to ride. The Suspension package I purchased from PTFB should be closed to stock.  Additionally, the vibration from the engine is terrible. I suspect most of this is because the exhaust on driver side is pushed tight against the sub-frame.  And, there's no sound deadening/insulation installed.  It's too loud with the exhaust ending under the driver's seat.   I've driven it maybe 3 or 4 times, less than a couple miles total.  It has gotten better each time as I finish another thing here and there after each trip.  I keep reminding myself it's not anywhere near sorted out yet. 

Anyway...After the alignment I'm going to mess with the stereo/amp.  Something got screwed up after we locked it all down and it sounds like crap.  I think I have a crossed wire somewhere.  I also need to spend more time getting the hood aligned a little better. It's high on the passenger side and too tight on driver side rear.  I think I'm going to at least temporarily install the door seals.   I think that'll help with the doors not feeling or sounding as secure as I expected after new hinges, latches and all that work I put into them.  The windows need to be adjusted too.  They are sealing, but wont close all the way with the doors closed.  Maybe it's just the weather stripping is brand new.  Dunno.

That's it for now. Thanks for checking in.
Take care.
-Tom
« Last Edit: February 23, 2019, 12:08:33 AM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #324 on: February 22, 2019, 11:46:16 PM »

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #325 on: February 23, 2019, 10:12:53 AM »
I have heard that new seals will create the issue of your windows not rolling up when the door is shut. It might be something you have to live with for 6 months to a year.  I about died when I saw the fake picture! But your car still looks cool. I really hope my car doesn't ride too bad. I have the PTFB rear GT springs, solid body  mounts, subframe connectors and Hotchkis 2" drop coils. In short drive I had last year it didn't seem bad but my tires are garbage so....

Anyway great car and great job so far Tom! I really like the red 9n black, it screams 80's. I can't wait to see my new bright silver/charcoal graphics on my black car. Both of thos are not too common from what I have seen.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2019, 10:16:30 AM by FormTA »
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

roadking77

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #326 on: February 25, 2019, 08:07:28 AM »
Yeah, I liked that pic as well. Funny how washing the car can miraculously turn the grass green and bring the flowers to a bloom! LOL
Finished!
77 T/A - I will Call this one DONE!
79 TATA 4sp-Next Project?
79 TATA - Lost to Fire!
86 Grand Prix - Sold
85 T/A - Sold
85 Fiero - Sold
82 Firebird - Sold
'38-CZ 250
'39-BSA Gold Star
'49-Triumph 350
'52-Ariel Red Hunter
'66-BSA Lightning
'01-HD RoadKing

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #327 on: February 27, 2019, 11:05:00 PM »
LOL. Yeah...I thought about photoshop'ing it but it seemed like too much effort. 

It's been frustrating week.
I was just checking in TAC to research door stuff.  Is there a trick to make these things stop shuttering?
I installed new seals, hinges, latches and window hardware...New rivets in the release levers...removed the manual lock release chumpies, new window felts...everything. But, they still shutter and rattle badly over bumps.  They are better than they were, I'm sure. But I'm not happy with how they sound and I was feeling a little defeated the other evening.   Maybe the door cards make a big difference (Mine aren't installed).  Maybe my modern cars have me spoiled?  (Our 2018 Durango RT felt like heaven in back to back drives!) I don't know. I suppose I just need to keep tweaking things.  We have some dynomat to put in there and Julie had an idea to replace those little cloth covers on the actuating rods for the door latch with some vacuum line or something similar. 
If anyone has any suggestions, PLEASE...anything!

The next thing on my list to keep things moving was to get the alignment done...
 I talked to my local Midas, 'My' local auto mechanic shop.  Good car guys, no BS. They've been doing my inspections and stuff I can't/don't want to do myself for years.   I had talked to them about the TA a bunch of times...at least three times over the past few months(I had to get 3 cars inspected this winter.)  I asked about exhaust, tire mounting, alignment on the '81. They referred me to an exhaust shop and   assured me that they could do the alignment on the '81. When they mounted my tires, we talked in detail about the alignment. They told me to bring it in...they could do the alignment, no problem. Well...Turns out they were wrong. After having the car most of the day they called and said "Sorry, we can't do the alignment."   It sounds like the newer alignment equipment is computerized and doesn't go back past 1987.  And, I guess there's no way to bypass the computer...Like they can't even do some sort of manual straight up alignment? 

So, I'm still searching for a shop that can do the alignment.  I may have found one, but I'm waiting for confirmation before a Friday appointment. 

In the mean time, the car is at a local exhaust shop in Norristown PA.  Kar Automotive.  I dropped it off yesterday afternoon and expect it to be done tomorrow.  The shop has good reviews, and seems to have a decent reputation in town.  They had helped me out earlier by torching off the old stock LS1 exhaust manifold flange studs which frustrated me last fall...rusted in place.  They've been doing custom exhaust work in this location for decades apparently.  They are installing 2 1/2 system with a set of Thrush Turbo mufflers and stock style 'splitter' tips from Pypes.   
 
 I've had some difficulty getting the Speedometer calibrated. The speedo cable drive box procedure for calibration is a little tricky to follow and complete.  It's working, but it's about 30MPH 'off'. LOL.

Also this week...
 I replaced the fuel filter/regulator again.  My original pump was spewing fuel from its relief valve and showing almost 0 pressure at the rail.
Earlier I replaced that pump and that ACDelco Filter/regulator earlier and fixed the 'spewing fuel' issue, but then it started showing 85-90 lbs. pressure at the rail. Too high.   I ordered a Wixx fuel filter regulator and installed that...Pressure's down to 65-70 at the rail.  Closer I guess...but still not quite right. The return lines are clear and check out OK.  Could I be using the wrong regulator?
ACDelco GF822, Wix 33737...Right? 
 
And...
The Check Engine light came on again.  Showing 'too lean' codes for both right and left banks.  Not sure if that's related to the fuel pressure issue. (I thought it'd be 'too Rich' with the pressure too high?, but maybe it's just confused?)  OR Maybe it's related to the fact that I'm driving around with just a 'y' pipe for an exhaust system...And probably not totally sealed at the connections to the down-pipes because it does't fit well?). Dunno, I'll see if it goes away once the exhaust is complete.

My 90's vintage Spark-O-Matics are gonna have to go.  After troubleshooting the stereo sound issue, I've determined one of the 6x9's is hosed. They are 4 way speakers, and I think only 1-way is functional on the one side.  That was a little disappointing. I remember these things sounding really good back in the day. I thought they might be saved. 

Finally, (Boy, this is getting long)
 I had to drop the fuel tank again!  This time to adjust the rear leaf springs.  When I installed the PTFB kit I chose to use the upper shackle position (lower ride height).  I mentioned earlier, the ride didn't feel 'right' to me.  It was choppy, bouncy, or tight on the rebound.   As I imagined a car that's been lowered too much (and maybe not 'properly') might feel.  Anyway, I think is was a 'win'. Only took an hour and a half of time, less of a pain than I thought. Although it's only couple miles on the car after the change to the lower shackle position(higher ride height), it feels better to me.   This has got me thinking about what my end stance and wheel/tire combo will be.  I'm thinking I might end up with more of a stock height combo, or even a 'period' rake and staggered wheel size combo? Originally I was thinking along the lines of a lower, not too drastic 'pro-touring' look.  I think I'll be happy either way. I feel like I'm going to let the car and my seat of the pants feel guide the way to the final combo.

Alright,
Thanks for checking in.  I'll post pics of the exhaust
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #328 on: March 09, 2019, 10:38:44 PM »
Hello everyone,
  Got my exhaust installed last week. The shop did a great job.  I'll post pics a little later.  We got some other little odds and ends done too, including some progress on the door complaint.  And those 0171, 0174 'too lean' codes persisted after the exhaust install.  Working on those But...
I wanted to make a short post to ask for input or thoughts on my most annoying issue... The car has a terrible vibration which resonates through the whole body at idle while in gear.

My first thought was of the  solid motor mounts I had installed on my 04 GP. They transmit much more of the high frequency vibration into the chassis.  But, this doesn't feel normal to me. It's too much.

Here's a link to the mount set up I'm using:
http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BRP&Product_Code=LSX2&Category_Code=CNV2
Anyone using these or a similar set up?

Anyone have any ideas or thoughts on what could be causing this, or contributing factors?
 Why is it only when the Trans is in gear?  Pop it up into neutral and it goes away...while moving everything feels OK.   Is it just the idle speed happening to be a resonate frequency for my old TA?
 Do you think it could be (in part) because there's no sound deadening material installed?  (Anyone have experience driving one of these
without the interior buttoned down?  Is it a big difference?)

Any thoughts would be appreciated!  It's unbearable.

-Tom
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #329 on: March 10, 2019, 08:45:18 AM »
Tom-

I think it may have to do with the stripped interior and lack of sound deadening.  My TA with the LS and a stripped interior also has a bad resonance at idle in gear. In park it's almost nonexistent. I could be wrong but seeing both of these with similar situations makes me believe that and have some hope.
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #330 on: March 12, 2019, 02:48:23 PM »
Thanks FormTA.  It's helpful to hear that someone with the same set up is experiencing the same thing.   I really appreciate the insight. 
I have bigger fish to fry, being on a deadline with 4 weeks until we hit the road.

If anyone else has had a similar experience, or a different experience with their project, I'd be happy to hear it.
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #331 on: March 13, 2019, 10:02:13 PM »
Hello TAC.
Thanks again for the input on the terrible vibration with the LS1 installed with no interior sound deadening or panels.  It gave me some hope.

As I alluded to the other day I'm now on a schedule.  On April 14th we are driving the TA to Nashville TN to drop it off at Classic Auto Painting for body and paint.  'Classic Auto Painting' is my brother's shop in Mt. Juliet TN.  Just East of Nashville.  You can see some of his work here: https://www.facebook.com/chris.stat.  So, I have some key stuff to get worked out before that trip...

Got the car back from the exhaust shop, Kar Automotive in Norristown PA.  They have been in the exhaust business for decades and as such have experience with the second gen F-Body's.  I'm very happy with how it turned out.
The reveal on the tips is pretty close to stock location, but they did have to move 'em forward an inch or two because 1) I (knowingly) installed the spring shackle bolts from the inside out...taking up some space between the shackle and lower 1/4 panel.  And 2) On my 21st birthday I ditched the TA, pushing that right rear 1/4 inboard a little.  You can see evidence of our terrible body work in the pic below.  Anyway, that 1/4 panel is pushed inboard some, further reducing space for tips:
IMG_3885 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The angle of this pic exaggerates the placement a little.  To anyone who hasn't been studying it, they look appropriate from the side and rear.   I'm very happy with how tight they got the exhaust tucked up underneath the car:

IMG_3881 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
IMG_3886 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr
IMG_3887 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

It's by far the best fitting exhaust I've had on this car.  And, I'm happy with the tone and loudness level of the Thrush 'Turbo' mufflers.  Next time it's out I'll record some audio to share.

Another high priority thing was troubleshooting the P0171 & P0174 'System too Lean' codes.   IIRC P0171 is for Bank1 and P0174 is Bank2
(IE. Both right and left cylinder banks).  Because an incomplete exhaust system could cause the O2 sensors to 'see' some un-metered air backing up into the system, I wanted to test after the exhaust was installed.  Unfortunately, the codes came back almost right away with LTFT's showing upwards of 20% while cruising.  So, I started checking for possible leaks in the intake (Post MAF) and around the intake manifold...A leak that could impact both sides of the engine.   I did find one obvious leak...This vac port under the MAP at the rear of the manifold:
 IMG_3879-001 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

The MAP was removed so I could access the port, but the port itself was not capped or connected to anything.  Oops.  I put a cap on it.  Also, I don't know if this is normal, or if my solution is acceptable but...
I noticed the MAP itself felt loose in hits hole there.  The sensor is new, and the grommet is 'good'.  But it didn't feel tight in that hole.  I put a little bead of Silicone gasket maker around the very top of the grommet to try to close that (suspected) gap when installed.

Finally, I installed clamps on these PCV hoses.  I didn't put any clamps on during the installation 'cause they felt pretty tight. But now a couple of the connections felt a little loose.  So, I clamped them all down:
IMG_3878 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Regarding the doors slapping around inside their door holes...
I remembered that with all the work on the door hardware, I had not replaced the strikers.  I didn't realize they were 'wear items'.  The old ones were pretty shot.  The metal bushing in the middle is very loose:

IMG_3874 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

New ones are pretty cheap, and relatively easy to install.  The Fisher body manual has info on where the striker is supposed to be oriented within the latch mechanism.
IMG_3876 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Basically, you put putty in the space between the latch mechanism and the body of the latch.  Close the door enough to hit the putty, then check the measurement between the latch itself and the lager end of the striker.  'Measurement 'X' in the pic above needs to at last 2mm and no more than 4mm.  They say to make sure the door is adjusted for gaps within the hole before installing the latch.  But, one thing they don't mention is the placement of the striker vertically (Up and down) within the striker.  I think that vertical placement might be important because my first rough install showed a marked improvement.  Doors held tight over bumps.  But, after adjusting them a second time (per the manual and to improve the feel on 'close'), the Door shake over bumps got worse.  Still better than it was, but I'll need to do some additional adjustment.
Anyway...Here's what the new striker looks like:
IMG_3889 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Sweet, right?

One more thing to share...
This Before and after Pic of the engine compartment:
2019-004 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

With some frustration over the past couple of weeks, digging out some early pics served as a needed 'pick me up'.   I -have- made big improvements after all.

So, that's it.  I'm working on seat belts, fixing the stereo and getting the Aligment done.  Hope to put some miles on the car this weekend to (fingers crossed) verify the lean condition is gone.

Thanks for checking in!

Take Care.
-Tom






« Last Edit: March 13, 2019, 10:07:16 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

kentucky yeti

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #332 on: March 14, 2019, 05:26:11 AM »
You are doing awesome.  Hope the next test drive proves the lean condition to be a thing of the past for you.  Love that engine!
Mike (aka Yeti)

1969 Firebird 400 (non-numbers)
1977 Y82 W72 Auto
2007 F-150 Lariat 4x4 (5.4)
2007 Ford Edge SEL AWD V6
2012 Mustang

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #333 on: March 14, 2019, 05:56:25 AM »
Great work. Love the exhaust!

You have given me the idea that I need to double check all of my connections for leaks.

I can't remember,  do you have the door seals installed, new or old?
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #334 on: March 14, 2019, 09:57:43 AM »
Looking great Tom! Keep up the good work and you'll work all the bugs out. And that is normal for the MAP sensor, but the silicone can't hurt.

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #334 on: March 14, 2019, 09:57:43 AM »

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #335 on: March 14, 2019, 07:41:58 PM »
Thanks Guys...Good to know the MAP sensor movement is 'normal'.  But, yeah...A little silicone shouldn't hurt. I've had enough experience to grow out of a tendency to try to fix leaks with silicone.  But, in moderation and in used properly it has its place.
Form, if you're running a little lean I'd definitely check the PCV hoses.  Like I said, when I initially installed them they felt tight enough not to require clamps.   And, I hate the look of those screw clamps. So, I wanted to avoid them (I replaced the ones in the pic with a different style). Anyway the point is that after some run time, a couple of those connections felt much looser than I remember.  Most notably the two at the throttle body could be pulled off easily.  Even after just a few heating/cooling cycles.

FormTA,  I do have new door seals installed.  Initially I didn't put them on because the doors will need some work at the body shop.  But, when I noticed how bad the doors were shaking I through them on.  Installing the seals on did help a little.

Fingers crossed on the lean condition.  I hope to get the car out for a bit tomorrow evening.

Talk to you soon.
-Tom
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #336 on: March 14, 2019, 08:26:52 PM »
Got the seat belts installed.  I purchased these from Classic Industries:
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/sbfr2007.html

The color is a good match for the originals and quality is nice. However, the housings do differ a bit from the stock units. The stock ones have a cover that encloses the whole mechanism.  The new ones don't.  Functionally, they work the same and you can't see that part anyway:

IMG_3867 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

As far as what you -can- see, the new ones do not have the GM logo on the button.  Just a star sort of design.  And, there's no cover on the outboard belt where it connects to the floor.  In this pic you can see how the original had a cover riveted on there...
IMG_3866 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I think I'll look around to see if I can find those outboard covers and maybe GM stickers for the seat belt buttons somewhere.
Also, There's a plastic spacer that goes over the inboard bolt. Between the belt end and the floor.  I couldn't find them anywhere.  It looks like they just take up space to keep the inboard belt buckle from flopping around. I put a piece of rubber hose where the plastic spacer would've been.

Right now I'm working replacing the old Spark-O-Matics.  I stand by these things sounding nice back in the day.  They sounded 'OK' at first, but quickly went south.  Testing suggests one of the two 'went bad' for lack of a better term.  I did some research and ended up with these Alpines:
IMG_3923 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Initial check, with the one 'good' Spark-O-Matic and one of the Alpines is promising.  A big improvement, and (honestly) hearing one of the Alpines side by side with the one 'good' Spark-O-Matic, the sound quality of the Alpine is significantly better.  Can't wait to hear them both hooked up.

That's' it for now.  Tomorrow I plan on getting the other speaker installed. Maybe playing with the door strikers a little, and going for a drive to check the fuel trims.   I'll try to catch some audio of the exhaust too.

Thanks for checking in.
Take Care
-Tom

 
« Last Edit: March 14, 2019, 08:31:46 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

roadking77

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #337 on: March 15, 2019, 06:44:45 AM »
Youre making good progress Tom, can you not drill out the rivet and reuse the sleeve from the old seat belt?
Finished!
77 T/A - I will Call this one DONE!
79 TATA 4sp-Next Project?
79 TATA - Lost to Fire!
86 Grand Prix - Sold
85 T/A - Sold
85 Fiero - Sold
82 Firebird - Sold
'38-CZ 250
'39-BSA Gold Star
'49-Triumph 350
'52-Ariel Red Hunter
'66-BSA Lightning
'01-HD RoadKing

ryeguy2006a

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #338 on: March 15, 2019, 06:57:22 AM »
Dude, you're killing it! Keep the momentum going.  8)

1976 Trans Am LS1, 6 speed, C5 12.8" Brakes, LS1 rear 12" brakes, 17" Aluminum Rims, and much more...SOLD
My Build: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=24465.0

New project: 1968 Camaro with 6?.?0?  5.3 w/ Z06 cam/T56
http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=74591.0

FormTA

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #339 on: March 15, 2019, 07:09:10 AM »
That's what I was thinking but you may have to slit the back so you can slide them off.
79 Trans am 301 (work in progress) LS swap n progress
79 Formula 301 (Work in progress)
67 RS Camaro (Work in progress)
See the recurring theme???

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #340 on: March 15, 2019, 08:14:04 PM »
Duh.  I didn't even think of taking the old ones off and reusing them!  I'll check their condition next time I'm in that parts box.  Another example of why it's good to hold on to stuff even when you think you're done with them.  I've been stingy hanging on to things, but do have limited space.  The original Seat belts are still out there in a storage box.

Thanks guys.
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

Nexus

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #341 on: March 16, 2019, 01:37:05 PM »
Wow, it's coming together nicely, Have the codes come back yet or is that an issue of the past?
Charlie

79 Esprit but like many, it will be a T/A clone
(18 years and counting but still have her)

TATurbo

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #342 on: March 16, 2019, 10:27:45 PM »
Thanks for asking Nexus...
 Today was the first day I got the car out to put some miles on after capping that vacuum port.   It looks like the p0171/P0174 code problem is FIXED!  Whoo Hoo!  Put 30 miles on the car today, including some of its first highway miles.  No codes!

The highway miles felt really good.  The car still needs an alignment...it's bit twitchy at high speed.  But it tracks nice with no vibrations up to around 80 MPH.   And, at 70-75 it cruises very nice.  Overdrive is a great thing!  I happen to know I was doing 80 because we finally got the Speedo calibrated!  So, that's nice too...Everything on the dash is working and accurate now!
 I'm also happy there's no drone or undesirable exhaust noise at highway speed. I even got a compliment on the exhaust sound from my neighbor today. He happened to be behind me when I accelerated quickly from a stop sign down the street. After I pulled in the driveway he stopped as he passed by to say the car sounded really nice.  If your interested you can check out the exhaust sound here:
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne9GysXnRTU" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne9GysXnRTU</a> 
Don't see the embedded video? Try Firefox or Chrome Or you can link to it here:
 https://youtu.be/ne9GysXnRTU

Regarding the door banging around in its door hole on sudden bumps...
I adjusted the door striker some.  I just eyeballed it and moved the striker inboard and down a little.  The noise from the door on sudden bumps is much reduced.  There's still some room for improvement there, but I think I'm on the right track with the striker adjustments helping to keep the door from banging around.

The only new thing is a final install for the coolant overflow.  I installed it around it's original position inside the passenger side fender.  Because of space and alignment constraints related to the AC and heater hoses,  I mounted it directly to the inner fender, without the little bracket that is used in the stock install.  It looks at home there and, although it looks crowded in the pick, accessibility is fine:
IMG_3928 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Continued planning for the trip to TN.
 I need to install the fender-> Rad support cross braces.
 I'll need seat covers and to install the seat belt guides so the belt's positioned comfortably.
 And thinking of body and paint,  I'm considering getting of the stock two panel rectangle marker lights.
 I plan on using these arrow heads from '67 on the rear:
 IMG_3926 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

 And, the small round '68 front marker lights.   Something like this:
IMG_3925 by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

Oh, and the new speakers are installed.  The stereo sounds much better now.  Down the road I'll want to install a sub, and maybe a small amp for the front speakers.  But, it's decent and good enough for the road trip now!

All in all, it was a good day.

Thanks for checking in.
Take care.

-Tom
   
« Last Edit: March 16, 2019, 10:33:41 PM by TATurbo »
Tom
King of Prussia, PA

1981 Turbo Trans-Am
Build thread - http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=69897.0

Nexus

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Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #343 on: March 17, 2019, 10:29:49 AM »
The vid clip put a smile on my face...It sounds great!!

I'm glad those small issues have been resolved...that can end up being a bigger PITA sometimes

Keep it coming!!
Charlie

79 Esprit but like many, it will be a T/A clone
(18 years and counting but still have her)

Re: 1981 Turbo Trans Am project
« Reply #343 on: March 17, 2019, 10:29:49 AM »
You can help support TAC!