transamcountry.com
September 18, 2014, 11:48:20 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Login Register  


Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: seatbelt bolts removal  (Read 903 times)
77 Pontiac
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 811


Email
« on: June 29, 2012, 03:09:27 AM »

I have read some posts where people have tried to remove seatbelt bolts with mixed results (stripped threads and a truck load of trouble)

I am going to paint the lower plastic boot on my car, but was thinking of removing it to ease the paintwork.. Its the bolt on this picture that I am thinking about removing:
what would you do? let it be and use more newspapers to cover the overspray? or remove it and paint on the bench?



Logged

Greetings from Northern Europe Smile
dlocke
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 690



« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2012, 04:55:04 AM »

I'd try to remove it first.  The front seat belt bolts "usually" come out OK.  The ones for the rear seat belts are a different story. . . . .
DJL
Logged
firebirdparts
Jedi Council
Oracle Forum Member
*
Posts: 14111



firebirdparts
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2012, 08:44:22 AM »

You can remove that.  Use the proper tool, and spray on plenty of penetrating oil from the bottom side.  You could heat it up from the bottom side if you have trouble getting it unfrozen.

A correct size and hardened torx bit won't strip if you keep it straight.  Try a T-50 first.  If it won't go in, then there is such a thing as a T-47, which is I guess kind of a half-size smaller.
Logged

I want to be like Paul Kenny when I grow up
Joe Bays
Sgtrock
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 16


Email
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2012, 08:26:45 PM »

I'd try to remove it first.  The front seat belt bolts "usually" come out OK.  The ones for the rear seat belts are a different story. . . . .
DJL

I had this exact problem.  I just put in new carpet and the front seat belt bolts came out fine.  The rears were a different story.  After stripping one, I just left the other one alone.  I did put penatrating oil on, but not from underneath.  Should tried that first.  My Torx 50 stripped the one rear bolt, probably 'cause I didn't keep it straight.  Turns out I didn't need to remove the rear belts anyway because i was able to just put a small cut in the carpet to slide the bely through.

Logged
Jack
Oracle Forum Member
*
Posts: 5537


1971 Espirt T/A Clone 1972 Formula


« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2012, 09:30:01 PM »

I removed the front ones only (when replaced the carpet) IT WAS HARDER to remove the seats.  Once the seats are removed you will have plenty of room to work on the seat belts.  Use quality tools and go nice and slow.
Logged


Regards, Jack
77 Pontiac
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 811


Email
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2012, 12:17:53 AM »

Thanks for the help, next stupid question is how to remove the front seats? Is it like in a moderne car where you just remove a split in the slide rails and are able to slide the seat out of the rails after that?
Logged

Greetings from Northern Europe Smile
firebirdparts
Jedi Council
Oracle Forum Member
*
Posts: 14111



firebirdparts
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2012, 02:47:27 AM »

4 bolts through the floorpan.
Logged

I want to be like Paul Kenny when I grow up
Joe Bays
Jack
Oracle Forum Member
*
Posts: 5537


1971 Espirt T/A Clone 1972 Formula


« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2012, 06:04:02 AM »

Now that’s no picnic... the way to do it is first move the seat all the way to the front and do the 2 rear bolts and then move the seat all the way to the back and do the front two.  You have to do it in that order so you can use your body weight to move the seat around.
Logged


Regards, Jack
dlocke
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 690



« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2012, 06:33:03 AM »

I had one where the wire that connects the releases was broken and the seat was all the way back.  Had to grab ahold of the wire w/ visegrips & pull on that while pulling the lever as well while I was sitting in the seat looking like a dog humping a couch cushion.  Got it far enough forward to get to the rear bolts, though.
For the rear seat belt bolts, I worked them for a week or so.  I'd hit them with Free-All, let them sit overnight, and try to move them a little further each time.  Finally got tired of it and used my air impact wrench.  They came right out with no issues.  Can't say it would be that way every time, though.
DJL
Logged
thafezz
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 475



« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2012, 01:31:34 PM »

Glad to see this post.  I'm going through the exact same thing.  Rear seats are unbelievable.  One bolt is already stripped.  Used a torque wrench and and air wrench.  No luck.  I have to change mine out, as I'm going from tan to black in my interior. 
You think the penetrating oil would help, from the bottom and above? 
Logged

"once in awhile you get shown the light... in the strangest places if you look at it right..."  Scarlet Begonia's  - The Grateful Dead
dlocke
Active Forum Member
*
Posts: 690



« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2012, 05:26:39 PM »

Yes, from the bottom AND above.  Use Free-All if you can get it, if not PB will work too.  The trick is to plan on a week or 2 to lube them up.  They put some nasty threadlock (similar to Locktite red) on those things from the factory.  Here in the northeast, stuff gets worse the further back you go.  The seatbelt bolts in the tranny tunnel are easy from the 80/90 lube getting slung on them.  The rear ones have that heavy flaked surface rust.  Doesn't help that the studs are a couple inches long.
DJL   
Logged
transamcountry.com
   

You can help support TAC!
 Logged
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.10 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!