Author Topic: Electric powerdoor locks......for the 5 pin plug... with color wiring diagrams  (Read 3418 times)


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This shows the route the switches take inside the housing

Black and white diagram

Color diagram

For a 79 corvette.....exactly the same route. Fuse box is 1980-81

1/2” rivet. I had to buy the special. I also had to buy a rivet gun just for them. These are also the rivets for power window regulators. I got the rivets at fastenal. The 4 bolts holding the solenoid to the bracket can come out to get the actuator out. This requires a a 1/4” wrench. It’s tight but not too bad.  The metal bracket does not ground the actuator. This ground comes from the switch. These actuators were used for several years. I have a second gen and a third gen on my car. They have different part numbers. Which side they are on doesn’t matter.....they are the same for both doors.

Actuators......these can be easily rebuilt or taken apart and cleaned. They are usually good after being cleaned. They have 2 brushes connecting to the motor. The electric motor is inside the gold colored housing. The power connects to two places on the actuator. One wire (black) pulls it in. The other wire (blue) pushes it out. The ground comes through the switch on the drivers door

here is the harness for the drivers side.
 (The thick brown and thick dark blue wire are for the power windows.They go into the white plug). The rest is for the power door locks.
The wires travel all the way across the dash. The power goes to the passenger side with hot all the time orange wire. The engage wires are the black/yellow and the blue/black.
1..the drivers switch tells the passenger how to operate using these striped wires.
The passenger switch receives power from the engage wires and directs it to the actuator via the solid blue and solid black wires. The solid blue and black split off on the passenger kick panel and travel all the way back to the driver actuator and the passenger actuator. They split off at the passenger 4 pin plug. [/url]

by -foreverwhiteowl- the passenger harness. Notice there are no grounds on the door lock plug. You have the
1.orange master power.
2.black/yellow .....unlock from drivers side
3.blue/black .....lock from drivers side
4. Blue.......lock from passenger side direct and feeds both actuators
5. Black .....unlock from passenger side and feeds both actuators.

The blue and black go all the way back across the dash to feed the drivers actuator.
This is the longest part of the harness. The dash has to come out to get to it. Notice the two female 4 pin plugs
..... and the separate orange wire by itself to power the entire system. Should be hot on both switches

here are 5 pins.
The pin with the plate under it is orange power. The plate goes to the other plate which basically shares orange power when pushing the switch in the other direction.
....so there really is 6 pins inside this switch and 5 pins outside the switch. Pin 1 and 6 just share the path through that copper trail you see connecting them

I hope this helps anyone messing with this. It took me some time to sort through how it all works. It a lot of info and some of it might be confusing. If that’s the case just carefully follow the color diagram and then look at the switch diagram.

The system will not work unless both switches are hooked up. If you have any doubt just replace them. I bought mine on eBay and changed out the chrome housing. This helped with the craziness and partial working.
Then I ran into the solenoids not being strong enough to lock the doors. This was due to the solenoids just being dirty. They were unbolted and taken apart. I then cleaned them and lubed them with lithium grease. I sanded the brushes. There is also a really good you tube video on rebuilding them.

Then you have the locking mechanism being old and worn out. Mine are new so I don’t have this problem. How can you clean these? You can spray them and that will help a lot. I boiled them in water (car wash coin mech trick). The grease dries out and basically glues the mech to itself and prevents it from moving. This was the last thing to do. The solenoids being weak are usually the cause of no lock or unlock. They have to be strong enough to fight the friction of the lock mechanism.
Cleaning them internally is easy and should be done anyway. You can also replace them but I don’t know how strong the replacements are.
If anyone knows any solenoid upgrades.....post them here.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2018, 07:51:42 PM by glhx »


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Thanks for the wonderful and detailed write up.  I did not know the locks were powered off the "Ctsy Clk" fuse.

I have already converted the system to relays and use the switches just for switching the low side relays.  My right side has started to work intermittently.  I don't think it is the wiring as I can hear the relay click when I hit the remote.  And then it will work 10 minutes later.  From your writeup, it sounds like I should clean and lubricate the actuator.  I did lubricate the linkage a couple of years ago.
1979 TATA Extreme TKO .64
Hedman elite; Pypes 2.5; Borla XS; MSD 6A; Edelbrock intake; open scoop; modified Q-jet; Powermaster 150; 4 core radiator/Mark VIII fan; RobbMc mini starter; subframe connectors; solid body mounts; fiberglass rear springs; poly sway bar and link bushings; 81 master; D52’s; Blazer disks; 225/60 & 235/60 17's TrueContact's; relays for PW, PDL, lights; keyless entry


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I am going to sticky this - I don't guess it needs to be merged with anything else.  That colored diagram is way better than what I had.
I want to be like Paul Kenny when I grow up
Joe Bays
1977 Y82 4-speed (red interior)
1978 Skybird 350
1978 Redbird 305
1979 Redbird 301 4-speed
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC/SE (red)
1970 Datsun Pickup
1953 Chevy pickup (converted 4x4)
1988 T-bird Turbo Coupe


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Thought I'd come up with a novel idea creating a template mounted off the door latch, but that guy also has similar in red. This is to suit 78+ models, not factory 70-77.


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Wait, how did you change the chrome housing???
1979 T/A Y84 WS6
1979 F/A W72 WS6
1971 Formula 400 4-Speed