76 400 T/A resto.

[DeCaff2007]

Hey all.  Been a long time since I've had a chance to do any wrenching, and even longer since I've posted anything relevant to my T/A.

Well, in order to further motivate me to get this resto going, I guess it's time to make a thread about it.

Here's a rundown of everything....

Day 1, how I found it:



With a non numbers matching 400/th350:



And here's the cowl tag to confirm the original Firethorn interior and true T/A status.



So I got it home, and it did run for about an hour before I realized it had ZERO oil pressure.

The problem was the oil pump shaft so I was like... screw this and tore the motor apart for a rebuild.  The machine shop deemed the block to be junk.  Seeing as how it wasn't numbers matching, I trashed the block and bought a workable 455 block.







Soooooooo while the block is at the shop,  I took it upon myself to do some sandblasting:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=47514.0

The subframe has to be painted in halves due to space constraints and poor weather.  I've got the "underside" and the coil spring wells finished.  When that dries, the rest will be done.

There will also be pics of this very soon to come    (3 inches of snow out there right now.  Guess where I'm going...  No where!)

Last thing to update on here right now is that the control arms are currently at the machine shop getting new bushings from "Energy Suspension" pressed in.

I guess I should seriously start considering what cam I want.  My current goals are to have a streetable motor in the 400 - 450 hp range.

Suggestions anyone?

[DeCaff2007]

What's the saying?  "Pics or it didn't happen."

Well, I actually managed to finish POR'ing the sub frame!





Let me tell you guys, there is a LOT of bs around the marketing and use of POR-15!

If you read all the nonsense on the website and the garbage on the can, it says you must use a thing called "Marine Clean" to properly clean the metal before applying POR.

LOL a can of brake cleaner does the exact same job and then evaporates right off. 

I would, however, definitely recommend using a respirator if you are painting indoors.

Ok so the instant this dries, it's going back on.  Hopefully by then, my control arms will be ready

[rad400]

sweet

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice looking foundation for a resto. I really like the height that the shaker is at, nice and low. Does the car have a sunroof?

[shank0668]

Firethorn interior?  My dream car!
Good luck!

[Pontiacnut7077]

Looking good 

[DeCaff2007]

Nice looking foundation for a resto. I really like the height that the shaker is at, nice and low. Does the car have a sunroof?

That would be the original, uncut shaker for this car 

Yes, it has a sunroof, but I'm planning on making it a t-top delete.  It is, however, a good thing that sunroof is there.  It's a long story but to make it short, we couldn't open the doors or windows while the car was on the flatbed so I took the glass out of the sunroof and went dukes of hazzard style on entry and exit.  GOOD THING too because it had to be 100 degrees that day and the inside of that car was HOTTTT!!!

So, here's a small update:  I went by the "garage" last night to tidy up a bit and I noticed one of the nuts to secure the sub frame to the chassis is missing 

It cannot have gone far so I either have to find the daggum thing or hit up NAPA and pray they have something even close to replace it.

Lastly, my plans for this weekend include installing the sub frame (new bushings and hardware included), bolt on the control arms if the shop finishes them (another long story), and grab some 409 and bucket to SCRUB all the filth off of the firewall.  Then I want to get the wiring harness and brake lines sorted out.

LOL by then, it may be Monday morning...

[DeCaff2007]

Alright got some more work done on this grueling slow process.

Got the sub frame on today (with some help from my good ole dad).  It took a few minutes to figure out the placement of the new bushings, but we got them in and all properly torqued.

Before:



After:



Brand new polyurethane bushings from Year One and new sub frame bolts from Classic Industries 



Also, since I was missing one of the caged nuts to secure the sub frame to the chassis, here's my solution:  A $0.42 nut from NAPA and a washer from the new sub frame bolt set (I used the nicer looking washers from the bushing set to install everything).



Also, got the lower control arms back from the shop so I POR'ed them up and got new MOOG ball joints pressed in.



For some odd reason, the Energy Suspension bushings I ordered came with all but ONE correct bushing.  The lower control arms were fine but the uppers were not.  The passenger side has the correct bushings but the driver side has one odd one.  I took the control arm and bushing to 3 different machinists and they all said the same thing:  Incorrect bushing.  Weird, seeing has how it came as part of a kit with 7 other bushings.

No matter.  I'm simply going to order a new set, separately, for the upper control arm. 

After this, it's on to sandblasting/POR'ing the spindles and the coil springs.  Which, question:  Would it be better to just spray paint the coil springs or perhaps even get them powder coated?

Lastly, I also have new coil spring insulators on order, as well as Monroe shocks.

[DeCaff2007]

Alright so a small update is in order, in an attempt to keep this thread somewhat interesting.

Coil spring insulators came in, as well as the new shocks:



LoL looks like I know what I'll be doing this weekend.

I also managed to get the control arm bushing hiatus sorted out.

Here's the incorrect one:



Here's the correct one:



I've contacted NPD about it and they are sending me another correct one free of charge 

The instant that comes in, I'm getting it pressed in and the control arm painted. 

Throw that on and the rest of the suspension...  I'll be THAT much closer to at least having a rolling chassis!

[eschatts]

a lot of good work is going on!

[DeCaff2007]

a lot of good work is going on!

Yes thank you and here's another update:

Oooookkkkkkk the coil springs FINALLY came in yesterday, so today my goal was to get the upper control arms, shocks, coil springs, and spindles installed.

I got decently far, considering all the problems I ran into.

Here's the lowdown.  My first priority was to get the coil springs installed since I knew they'd be the toughest.

This thread:  http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=4042.0  helped IMMENSELY, although my biggest problem was that the piece of JUNK coil spring compressor I had bought from Advance Auto, as it kept slipping off the spring, sending everything downward in a dangerous way!  I returned that and found a MUCH better one at a different Advance Auto.  I also put a thin layer of bearing grease on the new compressor threads and that helped in a major way.

Also, I didn't have a "safety chain", so I used the ratchet straps that I had in my truck.  Exact same effect 



Spring, shock, upper control arm, and spindle (minus dust cover), installed:

\

Everything all said and done, including new upper and lower bump stops from Energy Suspension:



The driver side dust cover is pretty rough.  I haven't decided yet if I'm going to try to save it or just buy a new one.

Lastly, I would have done this to the passenger side today, however, the other spindle is in the shop because a bolt broke off inside it.  My bolt extraction skills are less than favorable so I'll let the shop take care of that.

I guess now it's time to order new calipers, pads, rotors, bearings, and brake lines.... whew!

[DeCaff2007]

Alright, small update.

I won't get the other spindle back until Monday, so I decided to see what I could do with the dust cover for the driver side.

Here it is as taken off the car:



...and the two damaged areas:





The second pic is my area of most concern.  Seeing as how a seal goes in there and it's out of round, it may leak.  We'll see what happens.

So here it is all pound out:



...and POR'ed.



It's going back on the instant it dries.

[DeCaff2007]

Ok so sorry I haven't updated this in a while.  I been doing a lot of parts hoarding, prepping, and trying to locate all of my hardware.

I've ordered all the brake parts I think I'll need.  Once I start putting them on tomorrow, I know I'll be taking a trip to the store.  Anyway, I have the calipers now (they just came in yesterday), rotors, pads, bearings, and races.  All for tomorrow.

Today, I was at the doctor for most of the morning so I didn't get started until about 3pm.  I did, however, manage to get the motor mounts on, and I finished installing the suspension the other night.

Some pics:

Dust cover now installed



New motor mounts from Anchor:



I've read horror stories about installing these.  Not true!  They are actually quite easy if you have the right tools:



... and it helps to have a helper and a flashlight.

Put a nut on the socket like so:



Jam it up into the subframe, to cover the hole that this bolt is sticking out of (that bolt is just sitting there, not held in by anything):



Then hold the socket wrench/extension in position (that gold thing in the pic is the rear lower control arm bushing sleeve on the driver side, for reference):



With that done, have a helper use a pointed tool to line the nut up through the hole in the above pic.  Then have your helper GENTLY start threading a bolt into the nut.  Works like a charm if you take your time.

The passenger side is 10 times easier because there is an access port in the frame, just below and behind the upper control arm, where the cross member meets the frame:



Here we are all said and done:



And what everything looks like so far:



Lastly, I've just noticed something today.  I'm missing the hardware for the driver side upper control arm! (Can be seen in the last pic)  I'll have to see if NAPA has any.  If not, off to the junkyard!

[LeighP]

Don't be too concerned over that dust cover damage...the seal that goes under the cover is only there to stop harmonic vibration of the cover...doesn't really seal anything.
Nice work....I hope you didn't tighten the engine mounts up all the way???? They often need to be a loose so you can get the mount bracket bolts through them when you fit the engine.

[DeCaff2007]

Don't be too concerned over that dust cover damage...the seal that goes under the cover is only there to stop harmonic vibration of the cover...doesn't really seal anything.
Nice work....I hope you didn't tighten the engine mounts up all the way???? They often need to be a loose so you can get the mount bracket bolts through them when you fit the engine.

This is exactly why I made a restoration thread.  Thanks for the info!  They will be a trivial task to loosen when it's time to lower the 455 in.

Today is brakes or bust!

[DeCaff2007]

LeighP,

Just to be clear, this is the gasket I'm referring to:

[DeCaff2007]

Well the brakes were a successful attempt!  After doing this once already on the 91 Formy I used to have, it was pretty much the exact same procedure.

All the goods:



The rotor had the races included, so I didn't need the ones on the bearings.



Next, the grease seal.  (I later realized that this is on backwards and had to flip it around)



Rear bearing installed and everything all greased up!



Front bearing, load washer, and spindle nut all installed, properly adjusted and even have the cotter pin.



Now for the caliper.  The first one was a PITA to line up, then I realized my mistake and it practically fell into place.  What happened was the silver bushings were too far against the spindle.
I simply backed them off a bit and all was well.



And installed:



Now to sort out this mess:



NOTE:  After taking this many pics and posting them, I'm realizing how bad of a photographer I am......

[Aussie 1977 Trans am]

Mate good info great pics of what your doing read your whole thread your doing a great job keep it up.
Ed

[Aldo]

Great progress so far looks like your doing well hope to see more in the future.

[DeCaff2007]

I'm glad to see positive reviews!  If there is any advice or critism, I'm open that as well.

This weekend, I hope to get the AC box out and cleaned. and maybe the brakes lines done.

[DeCaff2007]

Small update: 

I went ahead and ordered new sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension and also the full 7 piece stainless steel brake line set from Inline Tube.

Now for the hard decision:  What to paint the sway bar with?  POR, attempt powder coating (may take a LONG time to get done), or rattlecan flat black???

Also, I'm more than likely going to send off my power brake booster to Steve Gregori for plating/rebuilding.  The master cylinder I'm going to attempt myself.

LOL I wish I would have taken a video of the old brake fluid.  It looked like maple syrup coming out of that reservoir!

[jaygt]

gonna be awsome car.   455 would be cool.

[BAN]

Cool stuff, i take all my pictures with my phone. Half of them never turn out till i look at them on a bigger screen.

Word of advice. If you are planning on printing out the photos to make a book , something i like to do. Make sure whenever you are uploading the pictures to your storage photobucket or whatever, check that they are going up at FULL resolution. Don't hurt and saves you if you ever want to print them out.

Love the car.
Cheers
Sam.

[DeCaff2007]

Brake hoses came in today.  I'm HIGHLY appalled at the fact that

1:  The fittings aren't brass colored.  They look to be aluminum.        For $30 EFFING dollars, I would have thought them to be make of gold!!!!

2:  Made in China     



I should have ordered them from Rock Auto.  They would have been here a lot faster and would have been the correct color.

Meh.  I'll have nearly 4 straight days of wrench time this weekend and a lot of parts I expect to get here by then so lets see how much I can get done.

[DeCaff2007]

Sway bar bushings came in today from Energy Suspension.



If my brake lines from Inline Tube come in before the weekend, I'm going to be very busy this weekend!

[LeighP]

LeighP,

Just to be clear, this is the gasket I'm referring to:

Yep, thats the one I was talking about...it doesn't seal anything...just stops the disc "singing" from vibration against the stub. I've seen people use felt, or thick paper or even silastic form-a-gasket.

[DeCaff2007]

LOL how about nothing at all?  I'm not tearing the brakes back apart for a paper gasket unless there's a problem back there.

[DeCaff2007]

Alright so I have another small update today.  Small update is better than nothing, right?

My goal today was to disassemble the A/C box, scrub the firewall, and take off the cowl grill to see just how bad things are under there.

So, I did get the A/C box off.  Wasn't as bad as I thought just really dirty.



It's going to be a B***** cleaning that thing separately, along with repairing the one hole in the box.  I believe JB weld will work here.

Next, I turned my attention to the firewall.  The master cylinder was already off so I took the rest of the brake lines off and tore everything else off the firewall unless it was a vacuum line or a wire that couldn't be removed.  Can you say FILTHY?





Also removed the cowl grill at this point.  I need to figure a way to get all that dirt and filth out of there.  This crap of not having power is starting to really annoy me. 

So.....  after 2 hours of scrubbing, scraping, spraying industrial cleaner, wiping, more scrubbing, more scraping, some wire brushing for the small amount of rust that was there, and a whole lot of elbow grease....

I'm happy with the firewall now.  Just have to mask it and paint it.



Lastly, I was wire brushing the covers where the sub frame bolts are hidden.  To blazes with that!  Just gonna sandblast and paint them.

On a side note, I've picked up a few sandblasting jobs on the side and I'm glad I did.  I don't do it so much for the money.  I do it because it's fun and I enjoy it. 

Alright guys I'll post an update whatever I get done tomorrow.

[LeighP]

LOL how about nothing at all?  I'm not tearing the brakes back apart for a paper gasket unless there's a problem back there.

lol...don't let it keep you awake at night! 

[DeCaff2007]

I now hold the record for worlds fastest update after doing work... lol...

Ok so I masked everything off first thing this morning



Here is the finest rattle can primer job that money can buy!  (YEAH RIGHT!  I cannot paint to save my life!)





Also, I tried plugging a small shop vac into one of those devices that turns a vehicles 12v cigarette lighter into a 120VAC outlet.  LMAO        NOT one of my better ideas!

I didn't blow a fuse or anything but all I got was an intermittent buzzing noise out of the shop vac.  Grrrrrrr.....

Alright well this primer is the "Dries in 15 minutes" stuff from Krylon so I'll give it an hour and then it's getting painted gloss black.

[DeCaff2007]

Ooookkkkk so I did manage to get 3 coats of Krylon paint on the firewall.  I didn't realize just how BAD this picture was until I saw it on my computer screen as opposed to my tiny little phone screen.



I'll try to get a better pic in the daylight.

Well, now that I just need to wait for that nonsense to dry and tear off the masking, I thought I'd start on the swaybar.

Before:



Sandblasted and primered:



Some more random-yet-important parts that I went ahead and sandblasted and primered up.



Then tomorrow will be the final coats of paint.  Now, when I ordered the bushings for this thing, I ordered them for a 1" swaybar, because that's what it measured at.  I think the wrong bushings came in (anyone seeing a trend here?) because they look WAAYY too small.  I'll know for sure tomorrow when I compare them. 

It really sucks having things in two different locations but well I'm doing the best here with what I have.

More tomorrow hopefully.

[Aldo]

Pics are not bad that firewall looks great,nice job keep going .

[ryeguy2006a]

What was the part number for the sway bar bushings?

[DeCaff2007]

What was the part number for the sway bar bushings?

You won't believe this.  The WRONG part came in from Energy suspension.  I'm leery of this purchase, however, because the bushings didn't come in a standard Energy Suspension box.  They came in a clear plastic bag with generic instructions, all wrapped up in a US Postal Service Priority mail box.  WEIRD!!  It also had some guys name on it as the sender, not Energy Suspension.  I'm returning this after seeing this mess.

I went to Advance Auto and asked for sway bar bushings and guess what... SAME part number, different size bushing and it was CORRECT.  Only difference is it's the red, greaseable type.  Still from Energy Suspension, though.  I'll get you the part number straight off the box tomorrow, with pics.

[LeighP]

I was kind of surprised to see the black ones...my Energy Sus sway bar bushes were red, with grease nipples (handy idea).

[DEIVIONCRX]

The difference in the black and red Energy bushings is the black ones are Graphite Impregnated to cut down on squeak.  With sway bars i always do a wrap or two of Teflon tape around the bar where it goes through the bushing.

[DeCaff2007]

Ok guys so here's the lowdown today.

I actually spent the majority of the day trying to get organized as my "garage" was a mess.

Here, however, is the full story with the sway bar bushings.

As you all know, I ordered what I thought was the right size from Energy Suspension.  Wrong!  So I went to Advance Auto and bought these (the ones on the left are the incorrect ones):



I was positive they were the correct bushings but guess what:  TOO SMALL!  GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR 

So back to Advance I went.  This time, I brought the sway bar and bushing brackets with me.  It turns out this whole time I had measured my sway bar incorrectly.  It's a 1 1/4 inch, NOT a 1 inch......  How did I mess this up?  A micrometer with a dying battery didn't help, I'll say that much.

Well anyway we actually test fit 1 1/4 inch bushings and they fit like a glove.  The only problem is that the factory brackets do not fit the new bushings so I had to use the brackets that came with the bushings.  Not a big deal.

I did finally get my sway bar painted:



And installed.



And yet another thing held me up from progress....  I only had 3 out of the 4 bolts to install the bushing brackets.  I remember one of them broke clean off and the nut came with it, so off to NAPA I went, a mere 30 minutes before they closed.  I needed that, the nut for it, and another random bolt that I lost.  So the guy there said $0.72  Ok I go for my wallet and BLARRRGH there's no cash in it!  Well he couldn't swipe a debit card for 72 cents so I had to buy something big.

LOL this gave me the perfect excuse to price a new master cylinder.  $34 later and I'm out the door with my hardware and this:



I wonder how long it's been sitting on the shelf?



So I get back to the "garage" and start putting the last bracket on and decided I didn't like the look of the old hardware:



So it's a good thing I bought enough bolts to do both sides.  Looks MUCH better with the new hardware:



Guess how much fun I had fishing this nut in there...



And well before this hiatus, I had installed new MOOG end links:





My nice clean, painted firewall:



Some random parts I need to sandblast (now minus the master cylinder)



Fender to firewall brackets sandblasted and painted:



Haha it's all coming together nicely:

[LeighP]

Cleaning up real well....you might think about painting that mastercyclinder now, while its empty.

[DeCaff2007]

Cleaning up real well....you might think about painting that mastercyclinder now, while its empty.

Yes that will be happening shortly.  Gotta find somewhere to plate the lid, though.

[js1977]

That's looking really nice, I like the red bushings with the black.