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Author Topic: 79-81 Glove Box door lock removal  (Read 7002 times)
BANONE
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« on: April 10, 2007, 02:45:22 PM »

I just picked up another glove box door, and I would like to swap out the locking mechanisms, The new one is pretty pitted, and Ive got to spray a new coat of paint on the back side anyway, Any tips out there on removal and reinstall!!!! Happy 30th Bandit Anniversary, Thanks steve[/b]
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1979 TRANS AM SE PHS documented
Grand73Am
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« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2007, 05:43:43 PM »

I did a post about that back in February. Here it is:
Here's how to remove the glove box lock cylinder. First is the explanation, then some pics:
1) Put the latch catcher in the "up" or closed position, and with the key, lock it, like in the first photo.
2) Remove the key
3) Using a tiny screwdriver, push down on the steel tumbler that is visible thru the little window in the top of the lock housing. It's that shiny spot in the photos. The tumbler is spring loaded. Hold it down while pulling on the chrome lock bezel as best you can. You can also shove a 2nd tiny screwdriver in the slot under the latch catcher to push the cylinder outward, while holding down the steel tumbler. That may be easier than trying to pull on the chrome lock bezel. Once it pushes out some, you can grab the chrome bezel easier. The tumbler will move out a little when you get past the steel tumbler. Next you'll see a brass tumbler take its place, as seen in the 2nd photo. Do the same thing again and 3 more times and the cylinder will come out.
4) You may have to wiggle the latch catcher up and down a little to finish pulling out the cylinder.
5) To reinstall, with the tumblers pointing up and aligned with that window in the housing, and while holding the latch catcher up(closed position), shove the cylinder in, wiggling it as you go, until it bottoms out and you see the steel tumbler catch the window again.
6) If you don't have a key, so that you are unable to put the latch in the locked position, you can still get it out. Turn the switch knob to the horizontal position(as in the last photo). Actually, I believe if you pull the latch catcher to the up position, the switch will automatically turn to the horizontal position. You will be lining up the steel tumbler with the smaller window that is on the side of the lock housing at 3 o'clock. Be sure the latch catcher is still in the up(closed position) and do the same procedure as above. When you put the lock cylinder back in, line up the pins with the small hole on the side as you wiggle the cylinder back into the lock, while holding up the latch catcher. Once you get the lock cylinder all the way back in, that's about it, and the lock will work normally.



« Last Edit: March 28, 2013, 08:23:21 PM by Grand73Am » Logged

Steve F.
ponchonutty
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2011, 06:38:24 PM »

I did a post about that back in February. Here it is:

Here's how to remove the glove box lock cylinder. First is the explanation, then some pics:
1) Put the latch catcher in the "up" or closed position, and with the key, lock it, like in the first photo.
2) Remove the key
3) Using a tiny screwdriver, push down on the steel tumbler that is visible thru the little window in the top of the lock housing. It's that shiny spot in the photos. The tumbler is spring loaded. Hold it down while pulling on the chrome lock bezel as best you can. You can also shove a 2nd tiny screwdriver in the slot under the latch catcher to push the cylinder outward, while holding down the steel tumbler. That may be easier than trying to pull on the chrome lock bezel. Once it pushes out some, you can grab the chrome bezel easier. The tumbler will move out a little when you get past the steel tumbler. Next you'll see a brass tumbler take its place, as seen in the 2nd photo. Do the same thing again and 3 more times and the cylinder will come out.
4) You may have to wiggle the latch catcher up and down a little to finish pulling out the cylinder.
5) To reinstall, with the tumblers pointing up and aligned with that window in the housing, and while holding the latch catcher up(closed position), shove the cylinder in, wiggling it as you go, until it bottoms out and you see the steel tumbler catch the window again.
6) If you don't have a key, so that you are unable to put the latch in the locked position, you can still get it out. Turn the switch 90 degrees to the right(as in the last photo). You will be lining up the steel tumbler with the smaller window that is on the side of the lock housing at 3 o'clock. Be sure the latch catcher is up(closed position) and do the same procedure as above.





Any way of getting the pictures back up?
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mark369
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If it's not rust pitted, I can't afford it.


« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2011, 07:12:18 AM »

Thankyou very much. It came out easy with no key. Now I can get it keyed like the doors.
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Grand73Am
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« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2011, 09:51:00 PM »


Any way of getting the pictures back up?

They're still there. Can you not see them?
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Steve F.
mark369
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If it's not rust pitted, I can't afford it.


« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2011, 02:19:19 PM »

I can see the photos.
I found out the hard way that if you put it back in 180 degrees off it jambs up.  Gave the locksmith a frustrating afternoon after I got the glove box off. Had to force the lock to turn with pliers to get it to release then the key was stuck in it.   live and learn.   
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ponchonutty
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« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2011, 10:19:14 AM »

The pics came back the 2nd time I got back on here.  Not sure what was up before.  Got my lock out and was able to rekey it with the tumblers I had on hand.  All is fine now.   THANKS!
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Grand73Am
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« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2011, 08:18:57 PM »

Okay good  Smile .
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Steve F.
ILLTA77
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« Reply #8 on: July 13, 2011, 10:54:32 AM »

This is a great post and should be saved for all time..  Very Happy
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BlueTTA
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« Reply #9 on: July 13, 2011, 03:53:49 PM »

Is there any way to get the door unlocked if the you don't have the correct key?

Edit:
Last week I let a friend of mine borrow my TA for a couple of days.  I didn't realize that she was going to be transporting children in it.
Needless to say, the kids messed with pretty much everything.  And of course managed to lock the glovebox too.   

The keys that I have dont work because I replaced all of the locks with new ones, minus the glovebox because I never planned to lock it.

So if anybody knows a good way to get it open, short of taking it to a locksmith, please let me know.

Thanks!
« Last Edit: July 15, 2011, 08:43:37 AM by BlueTTA » Logged

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Chris
1979 Blue and Black Formula 400
1979 Solar Gold T-top 403
1980 Black Turbo T-top SE  w/400
1980 Blue Turbo T-top 301
1980 Blue Hardtop 305
1981 Brown Turbo Hardtop 301
Grand73Am
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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2011, 07:45:11 PM »

It takes a working key to lock it, so I wonder how they locked it without a key?
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Steve F.
fb_rider
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« Reply #11 on: July 23, 2011, 08:37:16 PM »

Mine locks without a key.
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1977 Trans Am SE w/W72 engine (sold)
1999 Trans Am Anniversary Edition #953 (sold)
2000 Trans Am Firehawk #263
Grand73Am
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« Reply #12 on: July 24, 2011, 02:29:22 PM »

I just checked mine. When unlocked, the lock is horizontal, and you turn clockwise to unlatch and open. To lock, put in the key and turn counterclockwise to the vertical position. Remove key and it's locked and won't turn. To unlock again, use key to turn clockwise to the horizontal position again.

If you can lock your cylinder without a key, something's wrong with the cylinder or latch. Maybe, if your lock can be locked without a key, it can be forced to unlock without a key too, with some jiggling and extra effort.
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Steve F.
78TA_In87
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« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2014, 01:54:38 AM »

Thanks for the instructions Grand!
I was able to remove the cylinder just now. 

Now I just need to remove this piece that is in the glove box door's hole, because I am going to paint the door.  Do I just need some kind of special wrench that goes in there?  Does anyone know what type of wrench it is and what size?

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Grand73Am
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« Reply #14 on: November 22, 2014, 09:32:04 AM »

I hadn't really thought much about it. But now that you asked, I looked around in the garage to see what I could find that would work. Pliers didn't work very well. The metal is soft, so trying to grab the edge with pliers was scarring it up. I thought of a wide screwdriver that could shaped to fit, but didn't have one that wide. Then, thinking about other things that might fit in the hole, I noticed a 5/16" bolt that I had laying nearby, about 4" long. I matched the head of the bolt to the hole in the nut on a glove box door just like yours. Even though the bolt has a Hex head and the nut has an octagonal hole, it was still close to fitting. On my grinder, I lightly ground down 2 opposite points on the head of the bolt and it fit right in the nut hole. It took about 1 minute to do. So, I inserted my new "tool" into the hole, and gripped the bolt shaft with a pair of vice-grips, and holding the latch from behind the door, I was able to screw the nut out of it very easily.
I'll put up a couple pics in a minute.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2014, 11:22:35 AM by Grand73Am » Logged

Steve F.
Grand73Am
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« Reply #15 on: November 22, 2014, 09:58:55 AM »

Very little material has to be ground off the points of the hex head of the bolt indicated by the arrows in the pic, for it to fit into the lock nut hole:



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Steve F.
mark369
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If it's not rust pitted, I can't afford it.


« Reply #16 on: November 22, 2014, 11:19:42 AM »

 That is excellent thanks for photos too.  Cool
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78TA_In87
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« Reply #17 on: November 22, 2014, 11:37:28 AM »

Cool!  Thanks for your reply!  Nice to be able to wake up and first thing in the morning to see a reply to a question asked just before going to bed.  I have a long day ahead of restoration and this is the 1st thing to do on my list!
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Grand73Am
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« Reply #18 on: November 22, 2014, 11:59:52 AM »

You're welcome guys. Thanks for replying.
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Steve F.
4speed76
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« Reply #19 on: November 22, 2014, 12:54:18 PM »

Great write up, Ive used this in the past. 
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