HArd to give info on painting, simply because there is so much to it, and anyone who has painted a car will have their own thoughts on method and materials. It really depends on if you plan on going to bare metal on the whole car. Because it's his DD, it's probably not necessary, but you will have a ton of sanding to do to get the primer to stick. I am a big fan of epoxy primer as a base, whether over bare or old paint. It sticks to anything and seals well. Follow that with a 2K high build for your blocking. Spray 2 coats, let flash in between, spray a giude coat, and sand with 180(on a block). Fix any high/low spots, then 2 more coats. By now you could get away with using 320, checking/fixing high/low spots again, which there should be very few of by now. Finally 2 more coats. Again, different folks say different things here. You can choose to use a sealer before your color, which is a good idea if old paint is underneath it all. Sand your last coat of 2K with 320 again, then 1-2 coats of sealer (which is just reduced epoxy), and follow the tech sheets for you color in regards to sanding. Usually it's 400-600 wet. Now you are ready for color. Single is less work, yet not as forgiving for dirt/bugs. I prefer a base/clear, since tiny dust nibs/bugs in the clear can be sanded out before buffing. Granted, you can sand em out of SS, but you are sanding away color. I'm just not a fan of SS, but for your application, it would be fine. The bad part of doing a 3rd gen is the front and rear bumpers will need a flex additive, and are harder to sand without damaging them. I used PPG Omni on my TA and liked it. It was fairly cheap and turned out real nice. I'd stay away from the pre-mixed Dupli-Color though. I've heard it's way thin and doesn't cover real well. I'm sure others will chime in here, and maybe have an easier/better method for you. This is just how I've done it, but this was on a resto that went to bare metal. Hope it helps a little.