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Author Topic: Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07  (Read 70507 times)

rkellerjr

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Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« on: March 17, 2007, 04:13:51 PM »
Well, there's always a first and this one is mine.  I've never done this before so ya'll will be getting tons of questions.  Here's where I am now...

The start of the project...




Radiator, outta here...


Top of the motor off...


Front of the motor almost off....


I still have the harmonic balancer to take off and the timing cover.  Then I'll start asking some detailed questions.  I want to get the block number so I know what engine I'm dealing with. I have a sneaky suspicion this isn't a '75 400.

The plan now is to take the 'cap' off the top of the engine, to expose the lifters and remove the harmonic balancer and the timing cover off tomorrow.  I just got back from the tool store to get the harmonic puller and a 15/16" socket for the crankshaft bolt.  But tomorrow is when the education part of this will start and where your going to be very important to my education.  My goal with this build is to put in a mild CAM to give this basically stock engine some pep.  With that I'll be replacing the timing chain, lifters, and water pump plus gasket sets of course.  

Last thing, I want to make it very clear, your dealing with someone who doesn't know a lot about engines but am willing to learn, of course.  I have my service manual for the '75 as well as the Chiltons and Haynes manual so if you need to refer to those by all means do.

With that said here's my first question which I discovered with my dissassembly...
Notice the arrow pointing to that exhaust port and notice the yellow line I've drawn.  The intake, Edelbrock Performer, only goes as high as that yellow line exposing a small portion of that exhaust port.  This happens on both sides of the intake or heads.  This can't be right, what should I do about it?  Do I have the wrong intake?  Should I put the heavy iron intake back on the engine?  If I do that I have a problem with the Edelbrock carburater and the shaker.  Suggestions and comments welcome.



Thanks in advance for all your help.

Maryland Bandit

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« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2007, 04:58:36 PM »
You might find it much easier on your back and head to remove that hood. Get a blanket and lay it on the roof. Baggies and a sharpie first off. Label EVERYTHING and take pix before removing anything. Don't trust you memory or a book.
Wire brush attachment for a drill, great for removing old gasket material on those heads and intake.
A can of Permatex :Right Stuff" gasket maker in the cheeze wiz can.
Couple of cans of brake cleaner, and plenty of rags.
Part number or pix of what intake came off of there so it canbe checked for correctness.
We'll be here when your ready.

JasonD

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Re: Partial engine rebuild - I WILL need help
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2007, 05:09:42 PM »
Quote from: "rkellerjr"

Notice the arrow pointing to that exhaust port and notice the yellow line I've drawn.  The intake, Edelbrock Performer, only goes as high as that yellow line exposing a small portion of that exhaust port.  This happens on both sides of the intake or heads.  This can't be right, what should I do about it?  Do I have the wrong intake?  Should I put the heavy iron intake back on the engine?  If I do that I have a problem with the Edelbrock carburater and the shaker.  Suggestions and comments welcome.


Rich don't worry about the intake covering that "hole" in the heads........it's just there and it doesen't lead to the exhaust ports or really do anything.  :wink:

rkellerjr

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Re: Partial engine rebuild - I WILL need help
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2007, 05:13:11 PM »
Quote from: "JasonD"
Quote from: "rkellerjr"

Notice the arrow pointing to that exhaust port and notice the yellow line I've drawn.  The intake, Edelbrock Performer, only goes as high as that yellow line exposing a small portion of that exhaust port.  This happens on both sides of the intake or heads.  This can't be right, what should I do about it?  Do I have the wrong intake?  Should I put the heavy iron intake back on the engine?  If I do that I have a problem with the Edelbrock carburater and the shaker.  Suggestions and comments welcome.


Rich don't worry about the intake covering that "hole" in the heads........it's just there and it doesen't lead to the exhaust ports or really do anything.  :wink:


Is exhaust coming out them?  If so I think I'd want to at least plug them somehow with some silicone or something.

Joker (§ir£Ðragon)

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Re: Partial engine rebuild - I WILL need help
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2007, 05:21:37 PM »
Quote from: "rkellerjr"


I have a question for you now.

Is that valve cover on upside down?

Boy, you do need help! :lol:
Larry


rkellerjr

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« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2007, 05:27:22 PM »
hehehe, yes, it's upside down because I pulled it earlier to check the rockers.  I 'temporarily' laid it on the rockers to drive the car back in the garage so I wouldn't get oil all over!  Good eye Larry!

Another question folks, how do I keep the engine from turning when I torque the crankshaft bolt off tomorrow?  Can I put the car in gear?

78thumper

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« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2007, 05:34:25 PM »
Rich

2 things

1. Jason has it right about the uncovered port there. It's a hole to nowhere. No exhaust coming out there. Some speculate it was installed to keep the oil from burning in the exhaust crossover area (inside the head). Anyways, it doesn't go anywhere.

 Prove it to yourself. Take a wire and shove it down there; it should hit the bottom of the hole, maybe 1" down. It's not very deep.

2. Save yourself money on the harmonic balancer puller rental. This ain't no Chebby you're working on here.  :?  The balancer should slide off after you remove the big bolt. At the worst, you may have to tap it with a rubber mallet to get it moving.
Later
Steve R.

78thumper

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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2007, 05:40:55 PM »
Quote from: "rkellerjr"
Another question folks, how do I keep the engine from turning when I torque the crankshaft bolt off tomorrow?  Can I put the car in gear?


I'm guessing it's an automatic, so no.

Get a big screw driver, a bar, or a hunk of steel. You should be able to slip one or the other through one of the holes in the flexplate. Let it ride around till it contacts the block.

Then lean on that breaker bar :wink:  :D

Make sure you're going the right way. Righti tighti, lefti loosi. :wink:
Later
Steve R.

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« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2007, 06:33:18 PM »
What brought this project on, Rich??

Looks like good progress. 8)
Jeff


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Milly

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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2007, 06:41:11 PM »
Good to see that you have gotten started. Take lots of pics. :D
John
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Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2007, 06:41:11 PM »

78thumper

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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2007, 07:05:49 PM »
After rereading your initial post concerning the exposed port, I have a question for you.

Look at the ports on your intake. Does your intake have small square ports for the exhaust crossover?

Or is one side a tall rectangle? The other side will be a small square.

If both sides are square, then you won't have an exhaust leak.

If one side is a tall rectangle, then yes, you'll have a problem.
Later
Steve R.

Joker (§ir£Ðragon)

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« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2007, 07:10:29 PM »
He had a lifter knock develope Milly. So now he's headed into the realm of "Well, as long as I'm this far into it I may as well..."

:lol:


Rich, since you have an automatic, putting it in gear won't keep the engine from turning. The torque converter acts like a clutch. It disenguages at anything under a certain engine RPM. That's what allows the engine to idle and not stall at stops. To keep the engine from turning over when torquing things like the balancer there's two methods. The first is a small nylon (I believe) piece called a "piston stop" that fits into a spark plug hole and allows the piston to come almost to top dead center but not go past. It's soft enough to keep from hurting the piston but hard enough to stop the crank shaft under normal torquing conditions.

The other calls for a strong buddy and either a flywheel turner or (if he's really good and you trust him not to slip) a big scew driver between the teeth of the flywheel and the tranny case.

The first option is a sound investment. :wink:
Larry


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« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2007, 07:13:42 PM »
Quote from: "78thumper"
After rereading your initial post concerning the exposed port, I have a question for you.

Look at the ports on your intake. Does your intake have small square ports for the exhaust crossover?

Or is one side a tall rectangle? The other side will be a small square.

If both sides are square, then you won't have an exhaust leak.

If one side is a tall rectangle, then yes, you'll have a problem.


He's talking about the "hole" above the heat crossover The one that most Pont. owners don't ever see because it collects dirt and grime until it blends in. :wink:
Larry


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« Reply #13 on: March 17, 2007, 07:14:23 PM »
The screwdriver always works for me....but it's aggravating the first few tries when it falls out :x
Jeff


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78thumper

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« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2007, 07:32:52 PM »
Quote from: "SirLDragon"
He's talking about the "hole" above the heat crossover The one that most Pont. owners don't ever see because it collects dirt and grime until it blends in. :wink:


Larry, see my post about 8 further up. I initially thought that's what he was talking about, but upon reading it again, I thought I would ask for clarification.

If you used a pre 72 manifold on the later heads, then you will have an exhaust leak. Since we're all ASSUMING it's a correct AFTERMARKET manifold for a 75, there may be a problem with his manifold.

If Rich responds with his finding, then we'll all know. All he has to do is look and post a response.

If I'm wrong, then I'm wrong
Later
Steve R.

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« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2007, 07:32:52 PM »


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rkellerjr

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« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2007, 08:39:11 PM »
Quote from: "78thumper"
After rereading your initial post concerning the exposed port, I have a question for you.

Look at the ports on your intake. Does your intake have small square ports for the exhaust crossover?

Or is one side a tall rectangle? The other side will be a small square.

If both sides are square, then you won't have an exhaust leak.

If one side is a tall rectangle, then yes, you'll have a problem.


Both sides are small squares.  I also climbed up into the engine bay a few minutes ago and again, everyone is right, those ports go nowhere.  As a matter of fact, one had a very small rusted nut inside.  I couldn't get it but it looks like it came off a carburetor some time ago so... no worries!!

Quote from: "79ws6resto"
What brought this project on, Rich??

Looks like good progress.  


Larry has it right, a lifter started knocking two weeks ago and got progressively worse.  This morning I pulled the tappit cover and pressed on each tappit (rocker?) and #1 was the culprit.  When I pushed hard I stopped the knock and the noise was coming from inside the engine.  I also was planning on changing the water pump but figured I'd go a little further and check the timing chain.  Since I was doing the second already and then the first happened.... you see why.

The screwdriver bit, your talking about where the four bolts came out inside the pulley around the crankshaft bolt?  I stick it in there and hold while cranking on the bolt.   Hmm... I suppose I should get a breaker bar.  Rick indicates that puppy is on there at 160lbs of torque.  Since I'm looking into that I suppose I'll check on a "piston stop" tool as well when I need to do the reverse.

Great stuff guys, thanks.  I'll have a lot more questions when I'm ready to go the other way.  Thanks for checking and responding to my post.

ih8z28s

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« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2007, 09:08:18 PM »
Don't know if you have access to air tools, but a 1/2" impact will break that crank bolt loose real quick :D
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rkellerjr

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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2007, 09:13:43 PM »
Quote from: "ih8z28s"
Don't know if you have access to air tools, but a 1/2" impact will break that crank bolt loose real quick :D


Hmm... I don't think so, at least no one that might have a portable one.  I suppose I might rent one but probably cheaper with just some good old American muscle.

78thumper

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« Reply #18 on: March 17, 2007, 09:15:51 PM »
Thanks for replying Rich.

If the intake manifold has square holes on each side, then yes, no leaks from those "extra" holes in the head.

As for the screwdriver thing, that's jamb it in a hole in the flexplate, or have someone hold it in the flywheel teeth.

Don't shove it in the balancer pulley bolt holes.
Later
Steve R.

Rick

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« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2007, 09:19:57 PM »
Rich -- be aware that a lot of portable compressors don't produce enough CFM at the specified PSI to drive an air wrench.  A impact wrench capable of making adequate torque needs some pretty hefty air, and the little compressors commonly used for house painting, nailers, etc., don't cut it.

Just check the air supply requirements on the tool you want to use before selecting a compressor. :wink:

Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2007, 09:19:57 PM »

rkellerjr

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« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2007, 09:20:49 PM »
Quote from: "78thumper"
Thanks for replying Rich.

If the intake manifold has square holes on each side, then yes, no leaks from those "extra" holes in the head.

As for the screwdriver thing, that's jamb it in a hole in the flexplate, or have someone hold it in the flywheel teeth.

Don't shove it in the balancer pulley bolt holes.


I warned you in my original post so here goes, where is the flex plate?  I'm clueless at this point.

Edit: Would the "piston stop" thing work?

Rick

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« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2007, 09:22:36 PM »
The flex plate is the thing the torque converter bolts to at the back of the engine.  Think of it as a flywheel for an automatic -- it's got the starter ring on it.

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« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2007, 09:24:27 PM »
I've heard of guys running a long piece of rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and coiling it up to make a piston stop.  I've never done it but it sounds like it would work and the rope shouldn't damage the piston/bore -- but I'd wait until somebody who's done it weighs in before trying it.

rkellerjr

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« Reply #23 on: March 17, 2007, 09:24:31 PM »
Quote from: "Rick"
The flex plate is the thing the torque converter bolts to at the back of the engine.  Think of it as a flywheel for an automatic -- it's got the starter ring on it.


So, what, I have to take the tranny off?   :oops:

Milly

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« Reply #24 on: March 17, 2007, 09:57:51 PM »
No, the trans won't have to come out. Just remove the inspection cover (if it is still there) under the torque converter. It covers the converter between the engine and the transmission.
John
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78thumper

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« Reply #25 on: March 17, 2007, 10:10:19 PM »
Quote from: "rkellerjr"
Would the "piston stop" thing work?


Probably. But I've never done it that way.

Not to say it doesn't work, because I don't know.

But I'd be leery about putting all that pressure against one spot on the piston with a piston stop, especially one that comes in on an angle into the cylinder. Think about how an extended spark plug would contact the top of the piston.

I'd rather use Rick's rope trick before a piston stop for loosening up a bolt that's torqued to 160 lbs.

Just my opinion, for what it's worth.

And what Milly said about accessing the flexplate. It's right behind the inspection cover. You just need to position your screwdriver or bar or whatever you're using on the proper side to loosen the bolt. You just need to think it through.
Later
Steve R.

rkellerjr

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« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2007, 07:00:20 AM »
Alright, I think the screw driver bit into the flywheel idea is what I'll use.  Anyone have a pic to show me where I would stick my screwdriver?  I understand the concept and the dust cover is missing from my tranny so I have access.  I just don't want to 'think' I understand and stick this thing in the wrong place.  I'll be putting a lot of pressure on this thing.

Although there's confidence in using rope in the cylinder .....  well ... that just makes me nervous and I don't like the idea of all that pressure on one cylinder.

Rick

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« Reply #27 on: March 18, 2007, 08:22:37 AM »
Quote from: "rkellerjr"
Anyone have a pic to show me where I would stick my screwdriver?


Rich, I have a 4 speed so I haven't had to work with a flex plate, so I'm not much help with this, but...

You do realize EXACTLY what you may have set yourself for with that question, don't you? :shock:  :P  :twisted:  :twisted:  :wink:

ih8z28s

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« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2007, 09:51:35 AM »
Check with the local rental place, they may have an electric impact, a friend of mine farms and carries one in his truck all the time, that thing has a LOT of torque :shock:
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« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2007, 10:28:50 AM »
Quote from: "Rick"
You do realize EXACTLY what you may have set yourself for with that question, don't you? :shock:  :P  :twisted:  :twisted:  :wink:


Darn Hoosiers!!...I thought the same thing :lol:  :lol:

Just stick the screwdriver through any of the large holes in the surface of the flywheel. Wedge it in there at an angle to prevent the flywheel from turning...that will hold your crank in place while you free the bolt




btw...stick that screwdriver up your  :shock:  :lol:  :lol:  (joke...just couldn't resist). Good luck with your project, Rich :D
Jeff


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Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2007, 10:28:50 AM »

rkellerjr

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« Reply #30 on: March 18, 2007, 11:31:36 AM »
Nothing like feeling like family where the big brothers beat up on the little brother!  I feel so at home  :lol:

Thanks, will stick the screwdriver where it should go.

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« Reply #31 on: March 18, 2007, 11:43:12 AM »
Sounds like you'll do fine...proud of you for tackling this, lil' brother :D
Jeff


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78thumper

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« Reply #32 on: March 22, 2007, 06:46:02 PM »
So  Rich

Did you finish this project, yet?
Later
Steve R.

Rick

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« Reply #33 on: March 22, 2007, 07:42:32 PM »
Rich is currently nursing his fingers back to health.  As soon as the skin grafts on his knuckles heal, we will get a full report from him... :shock:  :P  :P

rkellerjr

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« Reply #34 on: March 22, 2007, 09:17:32 PM »
LOL, thanks Rick!  :shock:

No, project not done, sorry for not posting but during the week it's family and school so the TA sits in the garage waiting.  I do check on her from time to time though.  My plans go like this, this Sat. I'll tear the rest of the engine down, write down all the numbers I KNOW you guys are going to ask for and then post a big long discertation  :roll:  that I'll expect feedback on.  We'll probably go back and forth a few times  :?  and then I'll order the parts I need and have them here no later than next Friday.  :lol:  I'll also post my discertation over at 78ta to get their input.  Bunch of great guys over there too, you can never have too much advice.  8)  The following Sat. I'll start putting her back together.  :wink:  I'm figuring two, maybe three weeks and I should be able to turn the key and see how I did on my very first engine tear down and rebuild.  :P  Granted, it's not all the way down but, close enough for a first timer.  :wink:

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« Reply #35 on: March 23, 2007, 05:17:33 PM »
Rich, let me know if you need to use an impact wrench, I have one and a 30 gallon compressor and you're not that far away.  Also let me know if you need an extra hand.
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« Reply #36 on: March 31, 2007, 05:49:44 AM »
Hey Rich - any recent progress on your project?
1977 Trans Am SE w/W72 engine (sold)
1999 Trans Am Anniversary Edition #953 (sold)
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rkellerjr

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« Reply #37 on: March 31, 2007, 04:14:03 PM »
Wow, what a day today.  :o I actually wasn't sure I was going to get to this today.  I made progress  ;D and I found some interesting things you'll see below.  First things first.  All I have left now is to remove the old parts which are...

Timing Chain and gears
Cam
Loosen the rockers and remove the rods (I'll make sure they all are straight and air will blow through them)
Pop out the lifters

Harmonic balancer came out easy utilizing the puller. This whole removal process has been a piece of cake however, there have been missing bolts (can't believe the engine has no leaks).   I believe my timing was off so I'm going to be putting things back together using TDC and aligning everything.  I will read my manuals but any suggestions you give is appreciated.  Also, sometimes you guys explain it better then the book ;)  

So my first question is... at this point how do I rotate the engine to achieve TDC?  Can I look inside the engine at the lifters (before taking them out) and 'see' TDC versus putting something in the cylinder chamber?

Second question, how do I remove the chain after I achieve TDC and how do I remove the gears.  The top gear looks simple however, the bottom gear does not.

OK, for the fun part, pictures.  I'm going to caption each with comments as I have some questions and comments to make as we go along and then comes the fun part, recommending and then buying parts.  ;D

Engine number information.  This was a toughy.  Here is what I've found.  I'm trying to determine the year of this thing however, I'm guessing (amateur that I am) that it's a '77 engine.

Heads: 6X (how do I determine if they are 4 or 8?)




Engine numbers were a bear.  Here's what I've found...

Block #: 27P??8490.   The question marks looked like they might be letters, possibly two N's as the had the left line, like an N, and then the downward stroke but stops about half way down that downward stroke.  That's all I could read.  The number is very faded.  The engine does have Y4 on the front and 400 on the bottom of the drivers side.   The next two numbers I found in the back of the block.  The first is the passenger side which is 50055 and the other, which I think is the date code on the drivers side is ?255 which I believe the first character might be an F.  Again, so freakin hard to read.  Here are pics...

Blue arrow, block #.  Red arrow, Y4 stamp.


Green arrow, 50055.  Blue arrow, date code.  See below this pic about the red arrow depicted.


Here's the first interesting item I found which I did not like.  Notice the port I'm pointing to with the red arrow.  I found something inside that, see below pics.  It's some type of ring.  I happen to see it as I was shining the light and looking for engine numbers.  I stuck my finger in there and pulled it out.  Comments on that?



Here's the timing cover.  I don't see any markings nor was there a tab to be able to set the timing.  I guess I need a timing tab????



Here's another interesting find.  The red arrow is pointing to a hole in the block next to the distributor.  The blue arrow is pointing to oil on top of the engine which I think may have come from the hole.  Comments on this little jewel?




OK, barring any major issues you guys see above I'm ready to talk about parts.  Rick has suggested that I remove the heads and measure .... stuff.  I'm opposed to that for two simple reasons, I've run out of money, actually spending a little more than I wanted to, and that will put my car being back on the road several weeks out.  I only get to work on this thing about 3 to 4 hours a week, max.  So, I'm frustratingly trying to find a middle road here as my goal is to have a decent daily driver until I get out of college.  So my goal at the moment, and it's subject to change depending on your feedback, is to replace the things I mentioned above and attempting to get a little more horses out of her in the process.  So, here's what I've been told and what I know about the engine ....

When I bought it I was told that the engine was bored .30, or .03 which ever it is, however, on the dyno I was at 170 at the rear wheels.  The car has had a timing problem, I'm almost positive of that, which is why I wanted to go down to the timing chain.  Engine was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago is what I was also told by the previous owner.  My general mechanic seems to believe this as he say the freeze plugs are new.  Anything else you need to know?   It's been suggested, and I agree, that I want to buy a kit or package deal with cam, lifters, timing chain and gears.  What do you recommend without having to do anything else to the engine?  Also, should I replace the rods?

One last question, which just came to mind, when I remove the top timing gear and lifters, does the cam just slide out?

Thanks everyone for your feedback!!  I've also posted this over at 78ta.

rkellerjr

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Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« Reply #38 on: March 31, 2007, 04:15:30 PM »
Quote from: "Sct402"
Rich, let me know if you need to use an impact wrench, I have one and a 30 gallon compressor and you're not that far away.  Also let me know if you need an extra hand.


I 'might' need one putting this back together.  We'll see ... I really appreciate the offer.

78thumper

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Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« Reply #39 on: March 31, 2007, 08:33:04 PM »
Wow, Rich, congradulations, you made it this far.

Now, so many questions. Let's see if we can whittle the list down a little.

I wouldn't worry about bringing the engine to TDC before removing the cam. You'll be setting this all up before you install a new cam anyways. If you really want to bring it there now, just reinstall the crank bolt with some type of spacer to keep the bolt from bottoming out in the crank snout. Then use a 15/16" wrench or socket to turn the motor. Remove the spark plugs to make turning the engine easier. Since your timing cover is already off and you don't have a timing mark anyways. just line up the small marks on the sprockets.

Remove distributor cap after reaching TDC. Note and make marks where the rotor points for #1 cylinder. If the rotor is not pointing to the #1 plug wire, rotate the motor another turn on the crank. This will bring your marks in line again, but the cam sprocket will be 180* from the first position (if you need to rotate again).

To remove chain and gears, remove the bolt in center of cam. Removing this bolt will also remove the fuel pump eccentric assembly. Cam sprocket, chain, and crank sprocket should slide off. Try to pull them evenly. Clean any built up oil deposits off the crank snout to help the crank sprocket slide off. Use something like a scotchbrite pad.

Once the cam sprocket is off, you'll see a plate (cam thrust plate) with 2 bolts holding the cam in place. Note the position of the plate. Remove the plate. The cam is now ready to remove. This assumes you've already removed the push rods and lifters. Of course, you also need to remove the distributor.

Install a long bolt (the longer the better) with the proper threads size in the cam sprocket bolt hole. This will serve as a handle to help remove the cam. Carefully pull the cam from the block. Try not to slam the high points of the cam lobes into the cam bearings. It is very easy to damage the bearings. You don't want to put deep scratches or gouges in them. Take your time doing this.

The oil under the distributor is probably from the distributor. There shoud be a paper gasket between the distributor base and the block. The plug in the block is a pipe plug to the main oil gallery. These seldom leak, mostly because they are such a bear to remove. If yours was removed at the last engine build, it is possible it wasn't tightened properly. If it is loose, remove, install some teflon tape, and reinstall. Pipe plugs are tapered, so the further in you get it, the better the seal. Don't be afraid to crank it in.

Take plenty of pictures as you go, especially of different sub  assemblies.

I'll study the rest of your questions and reply later.
Later
Steve R.

Partial engine rebuild - Completed 5/5/07
« Reply #39 on: March 31, 2007, 08:33:04 PM »
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