Figuring out my stance, 19" wheels and front braking

[SoupMan]

Guys,

Happy to be the second post in this thread

FYI, question is at the end of the post.

This year I decided it was time to move away from the 15" wheels and aging suspension components. There's a look I'm going for which involves 19" tuner wheels. The wheel I purchased is a 19x8.75 and it has a 255/40R19 tire mounted to it. To fit the front, I had to rid of the old spindle which was a good excuse to get the C6 brake upgrade done. The front has been fitted and it looks good. I'm waiting for my UMI 2" lowering coil for the stance to be right in the front. FYI, I did NOT buy the spindle + bearing + brake kit. Instead I purchase the spindle on it's own, C7 bearings along with C6 powerstop brakes. I'll provide specific part number when I complete the setup.

The rear is where I have concerns. If I stick to the 19x8.75 wheel, I can make the rear work even with a 2" drop leaf because the wheel will travel into the wheel well. But honestly, why would I keep it simple? Instead, I want to go to a 19x10.75 in the rear with a 285/35R19 tire. That's a 27" tall wheel/tire which is 11.2" wide. I've been looking at the UMI 2602 spring to get a 2" drop.

Since my wheel will be flush to the outside of the quarter panel, will a 2" drop still give me enough clearance for a 27" tall wheel/tire?
Can I do slight adjustments to move the rear stance up once I drop it 2"?

[JJ 109]

I have 285/40/18. They sit flush to the outer quarter with ~2” of clearance.

You can raise lower the ride height to whatever you want with springs and blocks. You can also use the bump stops for a little insurance.

Look up my other post on the subjects and pics.

Btw, I haven’t seen wheels in the widths you reference, in 0.75 increments.

[SoupMan]

JJ,

Thanks, it was you that helped me sort out Coil overs or just coils + shocks. I opted for UMI coils + KYB performance shocks. It will be 100% better than old coils and Monroe blue shocks

I was planning to do the bumpstop. The wheels I purchased are XXR. They comes in 8.75 and 10.75. If this was an all original 1980 Firebird I would not have put tuner wheels on the car but this is a bastard child and I'm making it what I want it to be. Might look funny but I don't think it will. Wheels can always be changed. The money I put in suspension stays and brakes stays.

When you say 2", you mean 2" under the rear fender lip?  If so, what leafs are you using?  I was looking at the UMI 2" drop leafs but the picture on their site show the stance being barely 1 inch under the lip. I'd rather avoid blocks if I can. I guess I could user lower hangers and shackles if my drop is too low?

[JJ 109]

I agree in choosing what you like. I am forever looking at wheels. Which XXR version you thinking?

I read a Camaro thread where a guy used these.

https://www.apexraceparts.com/store/wheels/ec-7-wheels.html?p=2

Yes I have ~2 between wheel lip and tire.

I have DSE drop leaf springs (2-3” drop) and 2” lowering blocks on top of that.
They will sag overtime, so I am about to change to. 1” block. 

I posted a link to pics in a previous thread.

[Formula8]

Slightly off subject but what is the deal with these "Tuner Wheels"?  Generally I see these available in the BMW bolt pattern which I believe is slightly off of the GM 4.75" pattern.  I see folks say it is enough to eventually fatigue the wheel studs so don't do it and others who say it is not a problem.

[JJ 109]

Metrics are  5x120mm pattern.

4.75”=120.65mm so 0.65mm different.

Divide that across two studs and it’s 0.32mm or 12 thousands of an inch.

Never done it, but have considered it. Never heard of anyone having any  issues