Steering gear and wheel alignment

[jbanna]

I just replaced my steering gear and coupling joint, but now my steering wheel is off-center...there is no way the gear, pitman arm, or coupler could be installed with the splines in the wrong position; assuming the gear (a quality one from Red Head) was centered when I bought it, do I need to try to adjust the tie rods to fix?  I seem to remember the same kind of issue when I replaced the gear and coupler 30 years ago...ugh!!

[tinpusher]

I just got my front end aligned after a complete rebuild. They centered the wheel by making adjustments to the tie rods.

My best guess  is that maybe you old one had enough play in it to be off (centered) and the new unit confirmed it? Just a guess..

How far off?

[5th T/A]

I agree with tinpusher. It’s likely just small differences between steering gear boxes.

About four years ago I removed my subframe. Using all the original suspension parts my steering wheel was off about 40 degrees. This was not due to component wear as everything was tight. Considering I had removed the upper, lower control arms and steering linkage I was not surprised. I did the toe in adjustments myself by building four platforms to have the car off the ground while I adjusted the tire rod ends. I used steel fishing line to create a rectangle I could measure against. If memory is correct toe in is 1/8” on each wheel while having the steering wheel locked in center position. If you are interested in doing this yourself I could provide more details and pictures. Otherwise just take it to a shop for a front end alignment. Any reputable shop will check out your suspension and steering linkage for slop before doing an alignment.

[jbanna]

Thanks for the replies - I may wind up having the alignment done...I had purchased a lifetime alignment from Sears in 1983, so got about 30 free alignments, but of course they went out of business; however, I might try to align the steering wheel myself to see how close I can get it, so would appreciate the more detailed info on how you did your own...

[jbanna]

Thanks, that does make sense as my old gear and coupler were quite loose...I'll get it close and then take it in to a shop for fine tuning...

[5th T/A]

Thanks for the replies - I may wind up having the alignment done...I had purchased a lifetime alignment from Sears in 1983, so got about 30 free alignments, but of course they went out of business; however, I might try to align the steering wheel myself to see how close I can get it, so would appreciate the more detailed info on how you did your own...

First I built four platforms that would allow me to raise the car up in the air enough to adjust toe in while still having it set on all four tires. I used 2"X8" stock and 3/4" plywood for the top. as shown in these photos.

IMG_3097 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr

IMG_3098 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr

Jack up the car and place platforms under each wheel, put car in Park if an automatic and engage parking brake. Center the steering wheel, lock wheel in place with key or seat belt. I used steel fishing line as shown in the next photo and notched two pieces of 1/2" electrical conduit with notches cut to hold the line in place along with heavy sockets to keep tension on the line. I then spaced the line equal distance from the wheel center cap on each side for both the front and rear tires. Basically, creating an evenly spaced rectangle to measure off of. So I had equal distance on each side. The line should be taught and be approximately the same height as the center cap. By measuring the cable distance from the front and rear wheel lip you can determine if the wheel is straight ahead, toed in or toed out. I believe the spec is for each front wheel to be toed in 1/8"

A real front end alignment rack has floating platforms the front wheels set on allowing you to easily turn the wheels when making toe adjustment. With this method there is some tension between the tire and platform as you make toe adjustments. It took me two or three attempts before I had the wheel centered, getting a little closer each time.

IMG_3099 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr


These three photos are screen shots from my posting on TAC hopefully clarifying what I am trying to explain.

If the screen shots are too hard to read you can clink n this link to go to my original post, 2nd page about 1/3 down. It will allow you to enlarge the photos.
http://www.transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=83455.40


IMG_4138 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr

IMG_4139 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr


IMG_4140 by Lawrence Alexander, on Flickr

[b_hill_86]

Not to take away from Lawrence’s post because he gave some really good info but if your alignment was ok prior to the gear and joint swap, and the only complaint is the steering wheel being off, I’d take a measurement between the two front tires as-is then adjust your tie rod sleeves (one out, one in depending on which direction you need to go and try to replicate the current measurement. I had to do that on mine after I replaced the rag joint. That should get you close enough to get to a shop if needed.

[jbanna]

Yes, I was able to turn both tie rod sleeves the same number of turns to align the steering wheel, and the alignment drove just fine, but now my left turn radius is wider than the right, by about 1/8th on the wheel turns, and 1/4" from the lower control arm stop...maybe I'll have to take it to the professionals..

[N PRGRES]

Why couldn't you install the gear, center it, then disconnect the steering wheel linkage again and just center it?

[5th T/A]

Honestly, at this point I would just take it to a local shop for an alignment. At the same time they should check your entire suspension for wear before attempting an alignment. Replacing any steering component or suspension part can alter toe settings. The way the steering gear box is mounted against the frame, you could remove and replace the original and still come up with slight changes in toe and steering wheel alignment. Many modern cars don’t even have any adjustments for caster and camber. The unibodies are built to very tight tolerances, But we are talking about 40 plus year old design and engineering.

Enough changes to caster and camber can also affect toe and steering wheel alignment. If you make changes and don’t take accurate measurements you are just guessing.

[firebirdparts]

I am not sure how accurately you can assess center on that box, but I would sure try.  For driving, the box needs to be centered.  The steering wheel is just a handy indication of that if everything assembles correctly.  I would be just a little concerned that something is "off" and then if so, how much.

If it turns out you're a little off, it may not be noticeable practically.  Toe out on turns and bump steer would both be affected by having it lined up with the box off center.  It does bring up the question of why it's off, but I'm hoping here it's just a small amount and within tolerances.  Bent pittman shafts are a possibility that I don't like to contemplate.

[jbanna]

Thanks for all the help here!  I'm lucky to live near Red Head's Post Falls location, so drove the car there for their assessment - right away they confirmed I need to adjust the tie rods in opposite directions, so I think I'll take it to a shop - I'm either too lazy to make my own alignment rack, or too concerned I'll not be precise enough...I also would like their opinion on the other component wear - all the joints seem tight, but many are old; however, the pitman arm is not bent!

[N PRGRES]

Question - Did you have to add an addition spline or anything to get it to fit?  Redhead mentions using a 32 to 30 spline.

[jbanna]

No changes - I've kept everything stock...after my experience straightening the wheel with the tie rod adjustments, coupled with Red Head's advice, I'm convinced it just needs a proper alignment, which I'll get next week...I'll post the results!

[jbanna]

Ok, I'm back pulling my hair out - my gear is 100% centered, and my wheels aligned, but I can't connect the steering shaft to the gear and rag joint unless the steering wheel is turned almost 90 degrees to the right.  I see no way to independently adjust the steering wheel to the gear - adjusting the tie rods to straighten the steering wheel will just move the gear off center, which means no easy left u-turns because the gear has an extra quarter turn to the right when the steering wheel is centered.  Can the steering wheel be pulled and its mounting adjusted, with the other parts still functional?  I've pulled the wheel many times in the past to replace broken cancelling cams, bad ignition switches, malfunctioning horns, etc., but I can't remember as it's been over 20 years!  The old gear and rag joint were worn, but not that much - the car drove straight, with a straight steering wheel - there was just a little too much play...

[N PRGRES]

Ok, I'm back pulling my hair out - my gear is 100% centered, and my wheels aligned, but I can't connect the steering shaft to the gear and rag joint unless the steering wheel is turned almost 90 degrees to the right.  I see no way to independently adjust the steering wheel to the gear - adjusting the tie rods to straighten the steering wheel will just move the gear off center, which means no easy left u-turns because the gear has an extra quarter turn to the right when the steering wheel is centered.  Can the steering wheel be pulled and its mounting adjusted, with the other parts still functional?  I've pulled the wheel many times in the past to replace broken cancelling cams, bad ignition switches, malfunctioning horns, etc., but I can't remember as it's been over 20 years!  The old gear and rag joint were worn, but not that much - the car drove straight, with a straight steering wheel - there was just a little too much play...

Something is for sure off.  Since the only part thats been changed was the gearbox, that would be suspect.  Have you called Red Head to see what they say?  Sounds to me, and I am by no means an expert, that maybe the cear is centered, but the input shaft on the gearbox was installed wrong, if thats possible.

[b_hill_86]

I’m also going from memory, although only about a year or so ago, but I think (being the key word) you can change the position of the hub relative to the shaft. The wheel technically could be changed relative to the hub but there’s that little notch for the horn contact that lines up on the wheel and hub which would be off. But I’m fairly certain I remember being able to go a tooth in either direction when I put my column back in and out the wheel back on.

[jbanna]

Well, after trying every conceivable fix without success, I finally figured it out, which was a bonehead mistake - I took the steering wheel off the column (for what reason I have no idea), and didn't mark it's position, so I guessed the wrong direction when I put the steering wheel back on...maybe now I can give some advice!  Anyway, it's now straight and tight (thanks Red Head), with just some fine tuning alignment by a shop next. 

[N PRGRES]

Well, after trying every conceivable fix without success, I finally figured it out, which was a bonehead mistake - I took the steering wheel off the column (for what reason I have no idea), and didn't mark it's position, so I guessed the wrong direction when I put the steering wheel back on...maybe now I can give some advice!  Anyway, it's now straight and tight (thanks Red Head), with just some fine tuning alignment by a shop next.

Glad you found the issue!  I haven’t installed Mine yet but plan to in the couple of weeks.