Rear windown removal/install

[N PRGRES]

Looking to remove my rear window and reseal it.  There is a good sized gap between the exterior window trim and the window itself.  I am not sold it's installed correctly.  How easy/hard is this to accomplish?

[FormTA]

I removed and installed quite a few windshields and rear windows.  I am just a backyard mechanic but I do have some good tools. Using windshield wire and an oscillating tool with a homemade blade I can get them out without breaking them. With two people and the interior panels and trim removed you can do it with just the wire but it is fairly difficult and you need to tape up the painted areas and he careful not to scratch it. Now I would highly recommend getting a battery or air powered caulk gun to dispense the urethane, this stuff is tough and there is no way I'd be able to lay a perfect "V" bead without one. I went and bought a Milwaukee m12 unit. Works great. Things to check.  How high you want the glass to sit, you need to know where the ideal spot is so the trim fits. Also replace any missing pins and or clips. Check that the clips you have actually fit the trim. Also order fresh 3m window primer and 3m window urethane. I can tell you that for a one time deal you'd be better off paying someone to remove and install it but you can do it yourself... it's tough but can be done.

[N PRGRES]

I removed and installed quite a few windshields and rear windows.  I am just a backyard mechanic but I do have some good tools. Using windshield wire and an oscillating tool with a homemade blade I can get them out without breaking them. With two people and the interior panels and trim removed you can do it with just the wire but it is fairly difficult and you need to tape up the painted areas and he careful not to scratch it. Now I would highly recommend getting a battery or air powered caulk gun to dispense the urethane, this stuff is tough and there is no way I'd be able to lay a perfect "V" bead without one. I went and bought a Milwaukee m12 unit. Works great. Things to check.  How high you want the glass to sit, you need to know where the ideal spot is so the trim fits. Also replace any missing pins and or clips. Check that the clips you have actually fit the trim. Also order fresh 3m window primer and 3m window urethane. I can tell you that for a one time deal you'd be better off paying someone to remove and install it but you can do it yourself... it's tough but can be done.

Thanks for the insight.  I think I'll let the pros handle this one

[roadking77]

Luke is correct on all accounts. Removing the back window is not that tough. Running a piece of wire around the perimeter cuts the seal. I did it with one guy on the inside and one guy on the outside. Wrap the wire around a piece of wood for a handle and once you get the rhythm going its pretty easy. I have found the windshield being safety glass is a different beast. I have removed a few back windows with no problem, I have broken every windshield I have tried to take out. I watched the guy doing my glass installs pretty close. A battery caulk gun is def needed. When he set the glass in my tata he had the bead put down in a minute or two dropped the glass into place and it was a done deal. I think he charged $80 or something. IMO well worth the cost.

[FormTA]

It also makes the trim fit like doo doo.

[roadking77]

What kind of clips have you all used in trim installation? I found some metal originals in great condition for my black car. The repros sucked and didnt work all that well. I also tried plastic with no luck.

With the 79 I bought new metal clips. Back window was problematic at best but worked. I had trouble with the front glass but was finally able to get them in place. THEN, last night I was cleaning the years of dust and I noticed the pass side down piece of trim was a bit high. I tried pushing on it to get back into position and the whole thing popped off, along with all of the clips. Then it all came back to me the trouble I had with the installation. I am tempted to try plastic to see if they will work any better.

[FormTA]

I have only had luck with metal windshield and plastic rear if I remember correctly.  The rear window was a real pain and I'm not totally sure my rear trim is on a 100% tight all the way around.

[Wallington]

I've only had the metal version, and of course there's different types for front and rear retainers. Others in the past have mentioned having more luck using the plastic retainers for the reproduction trim since the curves and fit aren't quite right and a little flex is useful.

[roadking77]

I have original window trim. I did not know there was a difference between the back and front clips. I bought repros years ago when I did my black car and they were junk. The guy that was doing my windshield gave me a name of a guy to get original clips from but that was so long ago I have no idea who that is now. They worked pretty good. I am pretty sure I tried the plastic on my black car with no luck, but I suppose I will get a variety and see what works.

[Wallington]

The front trim uses the short and square #20603072.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51BVO6xzAcL._AC_UL600_SR600,600_.jpg

The rear trim uses the longer #9731301 (nylon alternative) or metal, haven't got number handy.

https://s.turbifycdn.com/aah/yhst-16933743911250/amc-1975-on-gm-chevy-window-reveal-moulding-clips-9731301-51.png

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-5e9ps2m/images/stencil/500x659/products/3979/82290/9639_1__71145.1662144082.jpg?c=2

I think they were able to work together, some reference one, sometimes the other. GM even did a nylon version with same number, possibly different part numbers and suppliers, designs. The trim is 'the same' so should be fairly similar in function, if one gives dramas, try the other.

I know that I have different types in bags from over the years, not everyone selling parts is the same as GM and many universal to suit a few at same time. Have to check carefully. I have several good originals there, match with the new and toss the rest. Could even try a few clips in the trim before hand, see if slides freely but firmly and just slightly oversized so would snap into place without damage if needed.

[N PRGRES]

After the local companies either won't install old glass, or they quote me $225 for an hours work, it looks like I'll be installing this myself.  Doesn't look too difficult, but curious how much sealant do I use on installation?

[roadking77]

That stinks. When I had my 77 done I bought a new windshield and had it installed. When they were there I threw in a hundy to install my back glass that I had. There was no problem. I bought the front window for my 79 and found a guy through my glass guy. He charged 125. to install. I paid almost 400 for the glass (190 for the product and almost as much for shipping across the country) and he said he could have sold me the exact same piece of glass for 100!

[FormTA]

One tube of 3m window setting urethane.  You will need an air or electric caulk gun to apply it, that stuff is crazy thick an will A, bend s normal gun and B, kill your hand/wrist.

[N PRGRES]

I guess I meant more of, how big should the bead be without getting caulk all over the place

[nas t eh]

Looking to remove my rear window and reseal it.  There is a good sized gap between the exterior window trim and the window itself.  I am not sold it's installed correctly.  How easy/hard is this to accomplish?

I just did the same thing with my car, rear window was leaking at the top near the middle. I did not want to do it myself as 70-74 rear glass with the electric heating grid is not reproduced and very hard to find so breaking it was not an option.
The local F-body wrecking yard said $3000 for the part if I broke the one I have.

My glass had been installed using modern adhesive but the wrong rubber stops were used at the bottom edge and the glass had slid down toward the trunk, opening up a gap at the top. I paid about $ 200 last November for the repair and was happy to solve the issue without breaking a very expensive to replace piece of glass.

I have noticed that the trim is a little loose in spots, so this spring I’m going to bring the car back and ask what they can do to resolve.

P.S.the installer I found for this work has been doing this for 40yrs and the shop at least 60yrs. I was asked /told that I had a choice regarding materials/ adhesive, I could go old school and was going to, until he found that the problem was the wrong rubber stops not the bead thickness or adhesive material.

[FormTA]

As for the bead it's actually a V. You cut the tip so you have somewhere about a 5/16 hole and then cut a (again roughly 3/8-1/2 deep) V. Google windshield installations and you'll see what I mean with more accurate dimensions.

[roadking77]

2021-11-01_02-23-32 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
I dont know if you can see it very well, but I took this pic just before he set the front window into place. Like Luke said, he had a v notch cut in the tube and the bead he put on was at least 1/2" maybe 3/4" high.

[N PRGRES]

Maybe I’ll pay the 225 lol