Sniper EFI with Hyperspark idle problem

[SoupMan]

Guys,

I've had the sniper EFI for a few years now. Decided to upgrade the setup with a Hyperspark along with the control and coil. Install was easy. Last night for the first time I got the car to run with the hyperspark in place. I did however have to set the idle screw a few turns for it to idle. I figured I get the idle sorted out while hot and then it would just be all good like it was before but it's once again hard to start (impossible without getting a few turns of the idle screw).

Currently I've got the idle spark disabled (as recommended for early idle tuning) and I have the cranking timing set to 15 with the idle timing set to 12.  It shows sign of life and just dies right away.

If you have any advice I'm all ears. 

Forgot to add. Pontiac 455, Edelbrok intake, 6x-8 heads and Xe274 cam.

[SoupMan]

Update.

As of right now I'm suspecting a EMI issue. I'll post updates for others to see should they encounter similar issues. I'm redoing all my grounds and wiring to ensure the cleanest possible  power.

[FormTA]

Sorry for being dumb here, but what is a EMI?

[5th T/A]

EMI , Electro magnetic interference.

Soupman, I can offer a couple suggestions. Make sure all you electrical connections are good. I installed a FAST EFI system on my TA, the manufacturer insists that the power and ground connectors go directly to the battery, not a terminal strip, fuse block or buss bar. You don’t want any voltage drop that could be caused by any electrical accessory. The battery kind of acts as a large capacitor insuring you have stable voltage. Also with EFI you could be putting a higher load on the cars charging system than what the alternator is capable of producing. A factory 70 amp alternator might only put out 35 amps at idle. The ECU, electric fuel pump, capacitive ignition system, electric cooling fans (if you have them) is all additional load. Also if you do add a higher capacity alternator make sure to run a heavier gage wire from the alternator to the battery, I think factory only came with a 12 gage wire.

[SoupMan]

5th T/A,

Been working with some folks on the Holley site. I spent 10 - 15 hours redoing all my wiring. Found a few things that weren't great but I'm now in a position to say wiring is good with 99% confidence. My wires were going directly to the battery. They aren't going direct anymore since I've moved them to a post fed by a 1/0 gauge wires. As for alternator, I have a power master that produces up to 150A. When the engine runs I'm getting a solid 14v to 14.2v.

I'm pretty confident my problem is EMI or bad switched power since the datalogs often show weird data points the holley people tell me are sign of EMI.

[SoupMan]

Well,

I feel like an idiot now. I purchased a set of HEI wires 4 years ago so I just turned a blind eye to the possibility of the plug wires being wrong. Today I went and looked at one of the left over off-cuts and they clearly are NOT HEI. This looks like a the product may have been re-boxed. So these wires were fine with the old distributor but with the more powerful ignition coil it's probably making a massive EMI mess.

I'll find out tomorrow if that is truly the issue as I will receive my new wires. Oh well. Live and learn... Appears to be move learning lately

[olds403]

Accel ceramic wires.  I am using AEM ECU.  No issues. 
They are expensive but…..

[SoupMan]

Good news is I got it working Saturday. The adventure was positive overall except for the Holley support which was slow.

I replaced plug wires, plugs. Applied dielectric grease on all boots. I reworked a lot of the wiring, increased grounds sizes and ensure they were good. Cleaned the alternator terminals and re-twisted the RPM signal from the magnetic pickup to the sniper.