Recent Posts

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Tires, Brakes & Suspension / Re: Rear shock recommendation
« Last post by rkellerjr on July 13, 2020, 12:46:52 PM »
I "stepped up" to Koni Classics. Good ride and good performance as well.

Nice!  Have you played with the adjustment at all?

No, just installed them and away I went. Don't seem to need to be adjusted.
Lobby / Re: Today I...
« Last post by ryeguy2006a on July 13, 2020, 12:46:51 PM »
I sold my Eastwood flaring tool on CL when I moved up to the hydraulic type. They're pretty bulletproof so buying/selling used ones is no big deal.

Were you the guy who outbid me on ebay for the used Mastercool 72475?? Let us know what you got John.
Projects & Restorations / Re: Project QuickBird with LS swap
« Last post by Nexus on July 13, 2020, 12:44:10 PM »
I was wondering if you were to tweak the egg crate a little to allow the bumper to cover to come in closer, would that help?

sand just a smidgen off the face maybe?
Projects & Restorations / Re: 1981 TA SE LS-swap
« Last post by Nexus on July 13, 2020, 12:38:21 PM »
Great opportunity for a Public Service Announcement...
Anyone know what the correct torque IS for these Snowflake rims?
TMYK by Tom Sherer, on Flickr

I wanna say they around 100 to 120 foot lbs but that's going off memory and not very exact.

The little Mazda I had was 100 ft lbs. and I had after market rims on it.
Lobby / Re: Today I...
« Last post by Nexus on July 13, 2020, 12:21:53 PM »
Today I...

Took on the daunting task of installing new parking brake cables and re-installing the drum brakes on the womans wagon.  If you guys ever want a solid 8 hour fight...  that's the way to do it. 

Made me laugh right there
Glad to hear the car is still going. I swapped out my factory ECU and harness this past winter for a Terminator X and have been extremely happy with it. While it is very good at targeting the AFR for the engine, it is all based on some critical inputs from the user. One of which is the MAP sensor and the commanded AFR. You need to be certain that you have a functional MAP and that you are selecting the correct one when you build the tune. The other is your commanded AFR at idle, cruise and WOT. Holley has some great base tunes to start with, but you'll need to have an ECU and some basic tuning knowledge.

With that said, you can use the Wizard to build yourself a tune. The issue that I found with the Wizard was that it defaulted to the integrated internal MAP sensor, but I wanted to use my factory LS1 MAP, and it ran terrible until I figured that out. Since I didn't have anything hooked to it, the ECU thought I was at WOT and tried to compensate for that.

If I were you, I'd ensure that there is not something going on with your engine/tune/sensors etc before you go through the expense and time to remove and replace it with a Terminator X. You could have a pinhole leak in an exhaust tube that is causing false readings, or a IAT sensor that is failing where the engine thinks its 30* and adding fuel to compensate. Do you have access to a OBD2 reader with live data? If you do, make sure that all the sensors are functioning properly.

Good points Rye.
I do have a cheap dongle that I can try hooking up.  Excellent call.

This motor is a stock LS3 E-Rod motor.  It has 4  O2 sensors.  2 before and 2 after the cat. I am only using the 2 before and no cat.  I need the crank learning procedure (dealer has no clue). Too many issues against me with the stock ECU tune. I just need to move on.

Sounds like the Terminator X isn't as easy as it appears to be to get up & running.  Perfect...   :-?
Interior / Re: factory clock still working ?
« Last post by b_hill_86 on July 13, 2020, 11:10:31 AM »
I never used my electromechanical long term so I don’t know for sure but I read they didn’t keep great time. Has to be halfway decent I’d think. Anyway, the quarts conversion was easy to install and I don’t know if mine is the exception but mine stops occasionally. Keeps good time when it’s running. Like running all winter and it’s still accurate. But every now and again it’ll stop and I have to tap on the tach window. I’ve been tempted to reinstall my old mechanism just cause I think it’s cool.
Mechanical / Re: Differential rear cap gasket replacement questions.
« Last post by pancho400cid on July 13, 2020, 10:28:30 AM »
lightly glue to the cover(not the rearend housing)

Good advice.  Whatever you do, don't put gobs of silicone oozing out around the cover (the universal symbol for "I am a hack").
Interior / Re: factory clock still working ?
« Last post by gm muscle on July 13, 2020, 09:47:19 AM »
Mine hasn't worked since 1995!  :lol:

I fully had intentions of replacing the electro-mechanical movement with a quartz set up but after having seen a few videos, I want to keep it original. I'm looking to have it rebuilt.
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