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Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: 1979 Circuit Breaker
« Last post by Aus78Formula on Today at 08:37:52 PM »
Perhaps the power locks used the same power feed as the power windows, so no I don't expect they would reset, it's just a massive fuse. You could test by replacing with a large fuse less than the 40A, which is most. Regular Power windows were about 30A so they may be piggybacked onto it. At least it will tell if you have power and function again or something further blown.
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Lobby / Finally found a use for the selfie cam
« Last post by NOT A TA on Today at 08:34:32 PM »
Well,  maybe not a GOOD use........................but


3
Interior / Re: Sound Deadener
« Last post by Aus78Formula on Today at 08:32:47 PM »
Queue the long list of replies that mention every possible brand and still leave you to decide what's best!

Sound deadeners and heat insulation are different things but often have the slightest benefit to the other, as does adding a layer of carpet.
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Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: 1979 Circuit Breaker
« Last post by Jack on Today at 07:29:25 PM »
I'm not aware of any circuit breakers in a 70 to 79 Firebird... Maybe an aftermarket item? but to answer your question and if you have a circuit breaker it should have a reset button, if it does not that means It can't. 
5
Second Generation 1970-1981 / 1979 Circuit Breaker
« Last post by Bill Boyle on Today at 06:51:15 PM »
The circuit breaker (GTE 40amp, 12v) unit in my fuse block tripped today.  It was shorted when one of the poles in the driver side power door lock broke off.  The tripping stopped the function of the door locks and stopped the operation of the power windows.  My question is whether the circuit breaker found on the 70 through 79 Firebird Trans Ams resets?  None of my automotive books deal with the issue.  Should a fuse blow, we replace it.  Not sure what to do with the circuit breaker after it trips. 

Thanks,

Bill Boyle
6
Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: Flushing the radiator
« Last post by jvmagic on Today at 06:43:29 PM »
You need to flush your cooling system and replace the anti freeze every 3-5 years with ethylene glycol. The corrosion inhibitors get used up after 3-5 years and the antifreeze no longer protects against corrosion.  Your not getting all of the coolant out of the block, the Olds water pump holes are higher than the bottom of the block water jacket. I'd flush it with water until it is clear and then add anti freeze, you should aim for a 50/50 mix.  You can buy premix, which is the best route but it doesn't account for the water in the block.  Do not mix anti freeze types!!!!

Do I just put a hose in the radiator opening and open the valve in the radiator while car is running until water is clear? If not, what are the exact steps?
Thanks
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Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: Flushing the radiator
« Last post by SP Steve on Today at 06:19:19 PM »
You need to flush your cooling system and replace the anti freeze every 3-5 years with ethylene glycol. The corrosion inhibitors get used up after 3-5 years and the antifreeze no longer protects against corrosion.  Your not getting all of the coolant out of the block, the Olds water pump holes are higher than the bottom of the block water jacket. I'd flush it with water until it is clear and then add anti freeze, you should aim for a 50/50 mix.  You can buy premix, which is the best route but it doesn't account for the water in the block.  Do not mix anti freeze types!!!!
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Second Generation 1970-1981 / Flushing the radiator
« Last post by jvmagic on Today at 04:34:36 PM »
Hi,
I flushed the radiator on my 79’ 403 olds car when I purchased 4 yrs ago. I used a radiator flush additive and followed instructions. Forward a few years now and upon replacing the lower radiator hose, I noticed the coolant was very “rusty” looking. I proceeded to do the following:

pour a flush additive and fill with distilled water,
run 10 minutes then drain

fill with distilled water , run for 10 minutes and then drain again

water still looked murky so the third time around I added distilled water and 50/50 coolant. ran for 10 minutes and drain again.

The water clarity is a bit better but not quite “clean looking”. Am I doing this right?
Do I need to add an additive and run for longer period then drain?

BTW, I don’t see  20 quarts. It seems like 6-8 quarts every fill.

Thanks in advance
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Hi.  I did not read the entire thread but tried to read at least most of red79 (OP) posts.

I had the soft pedal feel where only until about the last 1/4 of the pedal travel did the breaks kicked in.  I had to get a little extender for the pushrod to make it longer after I purchased a new master cylinder ( I think the MC already came with the adapter, but my mechanic sucked and probably didn't know what it was for and threw it away like he did with some other things). Even with a new booster, this piece was still needed. I found a picture on the internet to better explain it:




And this is the extender I got that did the fix:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-300-13885
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I've never had inconsistent braking, just poor braking. I recently replaced the calipers, rotors & pads and the hydraulic hose with a steel braided one. I can barely lock up the brakes...with a lot of effort. I'm going to power-bleed them to see if performance improves. I may still replace the master cylinder and booster, since what is there is quite old.

I too have experienced the exact some problem. Bought mine new back in 78 and from day one the brakes were as you described. Only time they would ever lock up was in gravel or a wet road. Back then I also dated a girl that had another 78 and the brakes on that car would put you under the dash. Only things I never replaced were the proportioning block and the booster.
Heres a tip on bleeding the master cylinder, get the rear of the car raised as high as you can to help level out the master cylinder, helps prevent the air from getting trapped towards the front.
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