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Thanks Cyber104!  That would be awesome if you are close.  Am in Flower Mound Tx. 
Interior / Re: Speedometer sqeauk
« Last post by itllfly on Today at 05:12:44 PM »
Works fine no needle bounce just noisy. 
Mechanical / Re: Top End Kit + differential choice
« Last post by oldskool on Today at 04:46:52 PM »
"...Should I not waste my money with a top end kit and just start saving towards full engine rebuild or purchase?"


Your 5C heads would work good on a 455 shortblock.

If you go with 455 or more cubes, 3.08 will be plenty of rear gear. If you ever plan to run a 455, with sticky rear tires, it might be a good idea to go with 30 spline carrier & axles, or at least stronger 28 spline axles. Don't know which brand of gears whine the least.

Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: Formula steering wheel
« Last post by Wallington on Today at 04:39:22 PM »
About 80-81 they were steel. You can tell because they switched to that painted pebble effect on the spokes.
Second Generation 1970-1981 / Re: Formula steering wheel
« Last post by sCI on Today at 03:45:25 PM »
When were they steel and when were they Aluminum?
Electrical / Re: Best battery for cars that sit
« Last post by stros on Today at 03:30:51 PM »
Thanks yeah the clock was still moving when I started it up today.  Just curious what battery are you using?
Electrical / Re: Best battery for cars that sit
« Last post by 81Blackbird on Today at 03:14:21 PM »
IMO one month shouldn't be too long for a battery to sit if there isn't anything pulling power like the clock.  It doesn't draw much, but if you have an old battery it may be just enough to send it below the CCA/Volts need to turn the engine over.  I have used a HF trickle charger from time to time just to keep the battery happy.  But even that will not help if the battery cannot hold the charge.  Perhaps a Battery ON/OFF switch is in order or just remove a battery cable until your ready to play.
Electrical / Best battery for cars that sit
« Last post by stros on Today at 02:38:01 PM »
It’s that time of year again.  My Optima Red Top was unable to start my T/A this morning after not driving it for about a month.  The Optima is 6 years old however it has only about 5K miles on it.

Has anyone been successful finding a battery that can still start after sitting awhile or is it just a fact of life that any battery will need a tender/trickle charger in this scenario?

Mechanical / Top End Kit + differential choice
« Last post by 71Firebird on Today at 02:14:14 PM »
I've got a 71 Firebird (not original motor) running a 400 YC/TH400 with a 10bolt 2.73 gear non-posi

I primarily street drive the car on the weekends to let my badboy out but I'm now wanting more power especially as I keep getting left behind by my buddies 68 camaro, Lol.  I have the full pro-touring suspension under the car and it's obvious I could push it more at times if I had the extra juice. I travel highway distances as well so I don't want to get crazy with the gearing.

Did a compression test and read 115 lowest and 130 highest, did not perform leak down test.  I've got 5C heads, stock manifolds, and 75 is stamped on the block by the distributor...I'm using an MSD RTR distributor w/blaster 2 box and an edelbrock 600cfm.

So, I'm thinking about options and have been pondering about the Butler Performance top end kits but I'm not sure if it'll be that simple of a plug and play and what to really expect from it...or if it's even the best option out there?  I don't know how many miles are really on the motor but it drives fine. Should I not waste my money with a top end kit and just start saving towards full engine rebuild or purchase?

Additionally I'll build up my differential.  I'm running stock 15inch wheels with 275/60 BFGs.  I'm planning on getting a 3.23 gear, true track or locker... I'd love to hear about a combo (manufacturer/brand) that doesn't whine or fail.

Appreciate all inputs.
Projects & Restorations / Re: 79 TATA With 35,000 Miles Project
« Last post by MNBob on Today at 12:25:48 PM »
Amplifier Installed
One of the first things I did in 2012 (wow, time flies!) was to upgrade the stereo.  I installed 6 speakers, a head unit, and a 4 channel amp.  The head unit (Retrosound Model One) had an internal 4 channel amp so I used that to drive one pair of speakers.

This layout was a problem from the start.  I had to turn the level controls on the internal amplifier way up and those on the external amp way down to get a volume balance on all speakers.  This resulted in not enough power to the amp speakers and poor overall sound.

After 7 years, I finally decided to fix this and it was a good winter project.  A new 2 channel amp was not very expensive, but I knew it would be some work to install it and reconfigure the system.

It was a lot of labor and it took about a week to get it done.  All the seats, the glove box door and glove box, the right kick panel, the sill plate, etc. had to come out.  I also took the "opportunity" to clean up some of the wiring under the dash.

It sounds a lot better with more bass and clarity.  Here are the pics:

Wiring Amp

Wiring Channel

Top Amp Wire In Fuse Panel

New Amp Mounted

Amps Final
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