TAC Spotlight => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: jonathonar89 on March 07, 2021, 01:02:03 AM
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Great day for me today and I think some will enjoy seeing. Sold my '98 BPM Trans Am last night and made room in my new garage to start working on my '79 Trans Am again. Now that I'm down to just owning this one, the '79 will be at my full concentration.
Here is the big messy pile of parts I started with last night after I got the other car out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011495732_31c118cf08_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHHft7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHHft7) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51010683663_a2030da471_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHD64V)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHD64V) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Once I was able to get in the garage this evening, I did some organizing for a bit and then took the fenders, core support and control arms off...then centered it up in my garage.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011393276_4fc9008b83_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHGJ1C)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHGJ1C) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
After the car was stripped down up front I started doing an LS swap mockup with my spare "parts engine". Bolted my 4spd up to my 5.3 LS with the Silver Sport Transmission bellhousing and then threw on my 1" setback plates and UMI solid motor mounts. Got a little late doing all this but it's nearly in. I just have to double check and see how everything tightens up. So happy that the UMI mounts worked though. I tried two other brand mounts that were sold under my application but neither worked.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011495702_dba8f07e2b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHHfsA)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHHfsA) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011495692_070edc2702_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHHfsq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHHfsq) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Congratulations, you really got a lot done in one day!
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Signed up. Great progress, can't wait to see more.
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I like your enthusiasm. The concrete hadnt even cooled off and you were already starting the next build :D.
I kinda like the way the 3rd gen wheels look on the silver car.
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Thanks for the interest guys.
roadking77, my idea on this car has been to incorporate many of my favorite aspects of Firebirds in general. I actually have an LS1 being finished up by someone right now and it will be mated to my original 4spd transmission. The drivetrain should shave a lot of weight. The wheels are 4 front 16x8 0 offset '84-'87 WS6 wheels I had refinished along with BFG Comp-2 255/50-16 tires. I also have 3rd generation '87 GTA seats but I'm thinking I'm going to sell those and go back to original 2nd gen seats. The 3rd gen works, they're super nice and I got them to fit the car but rears are not great for swapping and I want to have an easy/matching interior in the end.
Here was an update last week on my engine. I should have it back within the next few weeks here.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51014568972_0042fae05e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHZ131)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHZ131) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Looking great man! Major hurdle figuring out the engine mounts.
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I had those same wheels on my old 3rd gen. Mine never looked that good though. Looking forward to your progress!
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I had those same wheels on my old 3rd gen. Mine never looked that good though. Looking forward to your progress!
Me too, on my 85 T/A, I liked that style over the other that was available at the time. Motor is looking good.
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I am so glad to see this thread started! You have been on the sidelines of many builds and now we get to finally see yours commence! You have great start to it too!
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Good to see you're working on it!
Perhaps have upholstery for the 2nd gen rear seat made with the 3rd gen material and "look"? I've done that type of thing in the past with other models of cars so I could have matching interior.
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Well guys,
I decided to take NOT A TA's advice here and bought a cheap rear 2nd Gen seat this evening because the rear 3rd gen seats don't fit these cars very well. My plan was to use take the both 2nd/3rd Gen rear seats to an upholstery shop tomorrow to get a quote on transferring the 3rd gen seat material to my 2nd Gen rear seats. While I was at the guy's place, he ended up having a set of Camaro seats he was trying to get rid of and gave them to me super cheap because he was desperately cleaning his garage out.
Now that I have two full sets of 2nd and 3rd Gen seats, my new debate is which seat I actually want to use. In either case, I need to use the 2nd Gen rear seat frame (not pictured).
1) The GTA seats are awesome and I can get them to fit but it's a decent amount of custom work to get it right. The fronts need custom fabrication for the seat brackets and the rears would need the 2nd gen seats custom-fitted with 3rd gen material to match correct. This route would cost some money. These seats have recline, cargo net, electronic air bolsters, adjustable headrest and adjustable lower cushion. A downside is they're heavier and slightly smaller in width.
2) The 2nd Gen Camaro seats I just picked up actually have frames that are in super nice condition and bolt in with barely any labor. Mice ate the fabric but everything else is super nice and no rust at all. Even the seat bottom wires are still intact. These would look like crap now but I could sell the super rare 3rd Gen seats, fund the car more to get it running and restore them at a later date. They're lighter but unfortunately don't have any features like the later model seats.
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions....hmmm
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51024859697_c51edfe8dd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJTK7i)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kJTK7i) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51024030163_a06e43a22e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJPuvZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kJPuvZ) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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I think for most the recline alone would be enough to make the decision.
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It all depends on what your end game is. If you want something to be factory, well you know what to do there. I am a purist at heart, but I think the 3rd gen seats would look pretty good. I would do what I could to make the tracks work. For the backs, if you could find fabric to match that would be ideal. It would bother me if the fronts didnt match the rears. Is it possible to recover the 2nd rear with the 3rd gen fabric off the seats you have?
Tilt is nice, I have back issues but never have a problem driving my T/A with stock seats.
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Seats are a personal preference item, you'll have to see what fits you and what you like. I am really curious as to the cost of recovering, I am going to get some estimates this summer.
Ditto on the progress. The new engine looks good; I like the color choice.
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Hey Guys,
No progress pictures this evening (phone died) but I dug into the project further than I intended this evening and needed to concentrate on what I was doing. After speaking with Tobin at Kore3 this past week and ordering braided brake lines for my car, I ended up deciding I would like to try manual brakes with the 1" master cylinder I currently have. Once I decided on that, I ordered a 70-81 F-Body manual brake conversion kit from manualbrakes.com. The part this evening that pushed me beyond where I've gone before on these cars, is the brake assembly needed to be removed from the car to modify the studs so I can install proper studs for the master cylinder. In order to do that, I had to remove the dash plate, steering column, and steering column/brake/clutch wires just to get the assembly out. It was a bit overwhelming at first but it ultimately doesn't seem like it's too bad. Now I just have to put it back together correct haha.
I'm interested to see how this brake system turns out as I've never driven manual brakes before. To recap, my setup is the 12" 1LE rotors on B-Body spindles, factory WS6 rear disc, Kore3 braided lines, 1" aluminum master cylinder, and manualbrakes.com conversion kit.
I'll post more pictures on this once I start getting to the installation portion.
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Made some slight progress this evening but took a lot of effort to get there. Once I got the pedal assembly out the other night, I found I have to remove the studs which held the original booster. They were welded on and it took a lot of grinding for me to get them out but I got them out. My neighbor convinced me to take apart the assembly and bring it by his house to sandblast and paint it. Hopefully I can bang that out before the weekend.
To add to my previous parts list for brakes, I called up Kore3 yesterday and ordered Hawk HP+ pads for front and rear as they said it would be a better compound for pedal effort and feedback on manual brakes. This should be a fun setup between the Hawk pads, braided hose, 4 wheel disc, 12" 3rd gen rotors and manual master. I'm not a parts-seller but I'm going to call this brake setup the "Super WS6" package haha.
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/03/51045222247_6597a1c7bd_z-1.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2kLG7bK")Untitled (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2kLG7bK") by Jonathon Randolph (http://"https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/"), on Flickr
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/03/51045222227_d655101ef8_z-1.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2kLG7bp")Untitled (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2kLG7bp") by Jonathon Randolph (http://"https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/"), on Flickr
(https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/03/51045222232_7cede6fb9d_z-1.jpg) (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2kLG7bu")Untitled (http://"https://flic.kr/p/2kLG7bu") by Jonathon Randolph (http://"https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/"), on Flickr
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My neighbor got me convinced to using his sand blaster this evening. I said I wouldn't get too into the weeds with this build but this was actually a fun project I was able to complete this evening.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51051131786_4fb7fff72d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kMdoTm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kMdoTm) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51051215792_dac852d7c5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kMdPRJ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kMdPRJ) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
After I got done with the blasting, I used some OER Chassis Primer then finished with their Chassis Paint. 2 coats primer, 1 coat paint and heat gun in between each round to speed up the process. I'm happy we got this done but now I have rusty looking pedals for a nice painted bracket haha
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51050406253_35e5b87b1f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kM9Fda)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kM9Fda) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51050406373_ab9f8023df_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kM9Ffe)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kM9Ffe) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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This how it begins, derailed right out of the gate. :grin:
Same thing happened to me, but I'm glad it did, my car came out great and I'm sure yours will too. So, why manual brakes? I love my 4 wheel disk setup with the 4th gen rear and stock front. Stops on a dime, I can't see needing much more unless I was autocrossing it and would worry about brake fade. Looks great by the way, nice job!
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Wow, that turned out great!
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This how it begins, derailed right out of the gate. :grin:
Same thing happened to me, but I'm glad it did, my car came out great and I'm sure yours will too. So, why manual brakes? I love my 4 wheel disk setup with the 4th gen rear and stock front. Stops on a dime, I can't see needing much more unless I was autocrossing it and would worry about brake fade. Looks great by the way, nice job!
Since I’m starting from scratch at this point, I was exploring buying a whole vacuum or hydroboost unit with everything (master/booster/prop) but those units were pricing at $275 or $1,000 respectively. I was going to go that route and sell the 1” master cylinder I got from PTFB years ago but Tobin from Kore3 mentioned that the 1” master cylinder could be used manually if I wanted. Since I had that on hand and there has been no interest from buyers in that part, I figured “why not?”. He was saying that I may actually like manual brakes and it’s actually a good setup for cars that get spirited driving because feedback is better. The downside with manual brakes is that everything is very sensitive in order to work right.
On a side note, I had Hawk HPS pads and Tobin said they could work but I would be better off with the slightly more aggressive Hawk HP+ pads since the car is going to be manual. He gave me a good sale price on those so I ended up pulling the trigger on front and rear HP+ pads. They’re supposed to be a little more noisy and dusty but the pedal effort will be reduced and feedback will be better. This should be an interesting “super WS6” setup coming together that I was not planning on initially.
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Pedal mounting bracket looks great. Even though it’s buried up behind the dash, I certainly understand where your coming from. When everything else on your car is done first rate, it’s hard to take shortcuts.
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Awesome stuff and signed up for the progress
I will eventually be doing something similar-ish to your build so I'm anxious to see your ideas unfold!!
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There is a night and day difference in that pedal bracket from the original photo. I really need to get a blasting setup. Great job!
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Went over to my neighbors house again for sandblasting this evening to work on my pedals and rear brake backing plates. For some reason, I was having issue with the media/equipment being really slow about removing the paint/rust. I was only able to clean up one backing plate but it still did not do a perfect job. Took forever and really frustrating but this is what I had to work with so I dealt with it for a 1-2hrs. Not much progress but it was something. We're picking up more media tomorrow so we'll see how it goes then.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51064862746_5ed9604139_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kNqLC3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kNqLC3) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51064862751_bb7bf6827e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kNqLC8)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kNqLC8) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51064954422_fe240e3175_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kNreSE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kNreSE) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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They look fine to me, but new media will definitely help. Does he have a water separator? If not sometimes when you run the compressor too much water gets in the lines. Try emptying the bottom of the tank too.
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They look fine to me, but new media will definitely help. Does he have a water separator? If not sometimes when you run the compressor too much water gets in the lines. Try emptying the bottom of the tank too.
He doesn’t have a separator. It’s also a smaller tank so I’m sure I was killing that pump yesterday considering how long it ran. We were talking yesterday about getting a bigger compressor from Marketplace or somewhere else. The pedal bracket cleaned up easy but these thick rusty brake parts are much more challenging.
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If it works good at first and the starts to slow down it is as Ryan said, water is gumming up the media. Also, on siphon fes cabinets some debris that was blasted off can get stuck in the suction line. On siphon units you can block the output jet with your glove which will force air back down the pickup tube and clean out any foreign material (it also verifies the conection of the suction tube).
I have spent countless hours at work and home using blasting cabinets.
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Couldn't help myself but this is more of a "show 'n' tell" rather than a progress post tonight. I got my Viking front coilovers and rear shocks that I ordered from Rodney at Suspension Geek today. Man, I'm excited to run this setup. Big cost for my budget but I'm happy I pulled the trigger. I don't know the weight difference but I can definitely feel this front coilover setup is much lighter than the stock style springs and steel shocks. Since I'm changing the weight of the car by couple hundred pounds and using the free-moving AFCO control arm bushings, I've been kind of wary about using generic shocks for my setup. Now that this setup will be adjustable, I can dial it in to what the car will like.
In speaking with Rodney at Suspension Geek, I was originally intending on going with 550lb front springs like most small block applications but we ended up settling on trying out 450lb springs to start. Since I'm going manual brakes, 1" engine setback, aluminum LS1 engine, keeping the T10 4spd transmission and low-friction bushings, the car is going to be lighter than most applications up front.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998148935_8f717a0408_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwQVV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwQVV) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
I'm not sure if I showed this online before but my upper control arms were rebuilt a few years ago. I disassembled them and Dave from PTFB helped me by installing the AFCO bushings, Moog offset cross shafts and powder coating them. For anyone looking to have this work done by Dave, don't get any ideas haha! He told me not to advertise this work from him because it's a hard job and it's actually more cost effective for buyers and himself to just to do new control arms. I haven't actually used these uppers but they're pretty much as good as you can get with the offset shaft and low-friction no-deflection AFCO bushings. When I had them worked on originally, I installed QA1 racing style ball joints but this evening I just swapped in standard height Proforged ball joints because I'm not trying to build a race car, as much as I think performance parts are cool.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51067537757_ed98af633f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kNEtNV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kNEtNV) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Got a set of Speedway Motors lower control arm reinforcement plates today. I couldn't find anything specifically for '70-'81 control arms and these were stated to be made for '67-'69 control arms so they're going to need modification to fit. My debate now is whether to install on the top side or bottom side of the shock mount.
Option 1- Cut the heck out of these things down to nicely fit on the bottom side. I'm leaning towards this direction...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51072673367_af6f92e74d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kP7NrV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kP7NrV) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Option 2- Just drop them in the top side, plug weld, and redrill the plates to the stock shock location. This route seems much easier but I would close up the available shock mounting length by 1/4".
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51072673452_d76f4b932d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kP7Nto)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kP7Nto) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51003391400_1f9da7d54a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGZHkf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGZHkf) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Good amount of work done this evening while I had a few hours after work.
-Finished sandblasting the rear backing plates and pedals. The backing plates did not blast out perfect but they ended up being about 98% clean. There were just some spots that did not want to come out (I believe undercoating) and it would've taken hours more to get it right with the blasting setup I was using.
-Took the parts home from my neighbors place and quickly threw 2 light coats of primer on and then painted the parts. All with OER Professional primer and paint. Heat gun in between rounds to speed up the process.
-Reassembled pedals to the pedal bracket.
-Mounted the pedal assembly to the firewall for mock-up.
-Attached the clutch and brake pedals for testing.
My oh my, this is probably the first time the brake pedal has pushed a brake cylinder in, I'd guess, 7 years. I still have a ton to go for getting the brake system tested, modified and installed but this was a big leap towards getting it done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51013853245_0116f00858_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHVkgT)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHVkgT) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998113714_8d19c618a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEsE)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEsE) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998113769_0b0bf4f324_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEtB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEtB) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51083035966_076929354c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQ2UTq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQ2UTq) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998114059_8abbfc39fb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEyB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEyB) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998114154_ded66e2f66_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEAf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEAf) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51013853305_12ce78335d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHVkhV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHVkhV) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51013852895_7d68d546bd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHVkaR)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHVkaR) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51083036011_aaeaa1c8c0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQ2UUc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQ2UUc) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50998113749_a1fcbc4a8f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEtg)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kGwEtg) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Fantastic updates! The pedal assembly looks great and the manual brake MC looks right at home. When are you going to install the LS1?
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Fantastic updates! The pedal assembly looks great and the manual brake MC looks right at home. When are you going to install the LS1?
Thank you sir!
For the LS1, I'm going to mock up the z-bar bracket to frame alignment before pulling the 5.3. I know haven't talked about it on the forum but I have that SDPC LS mechanical clutch bracket for the block. I still haven't fully bolted in the motor mounts to 100% know that everything fully seats into place. While that is being done, I plan on sandblasting the accessory bracket to prep for painting. I sold the Holley single plane MPFI intake today and have the dual plane intake.
One thing you and probably many others have seen is that I have gone back and forth with how I'm finishing this engine. I was going to do a carb setup, then the whole deal came along with EFI and now Holley is on major backorder with their Terminator X so now we're going back to building a carb setup.......and now that I ordered the carb LS controller, I found out yesterday those are backordered to May. Atleast that beats Holley's anticipated July date lol :lol:. At this point, I'm just going to be patient, take my time and keep plugging away slowly through this summer to hopefully get the engine fired this year.
We'll hopefully get it fired this summer. I really want to get it running sooner than later so my engine builder can verify the engine is good to go.
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Great stuff so far
Looks great
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Glad to see you are finally able to get after it.ill be watching the progress.
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Your engine builder doesn't have a test stand?
There are lots of dyno rigs you rent for a half a day.
I would have to think twice about using a builder that doesn't at least have a test stand
for break in and checking for leaks.
Darryl
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Your engine builder doesn't have a test stand?
There are lots of dyno rigs you rent for a half a day.
I would have to think twice about using a builder that doesn't at least have a test stand
for break in and checking for leaks.
Darryl
Funny story with how the engine build started. I had two LS1 short blocks that I was selling right when I was moving to my new townhouse and planned on funding my Pontiac 400 at the time. I had a young 21 year old guy show up to buy and when he came to buy a short block, he gave me a business card for his engine shop that he just started after going to school for engine/machine work down in Texas. After some conversation, instead of selling him one short block, I decided to have him take both engines and he would basically do the labor for free to assemble one of them. Since I had LS1 parts from a previous build, I figured I would give the kid a chance since he was getting an LS1 in exchange for labor to build another nice short block for me.
The year prior, I was ripped off thousands by a "race engine shop" that has been in business since 1969. That old man was a straight up alpha male but I was stupid to go to this place even after knowing others in my area have said the guy is a piece of work....expensive lesson learned there. I told myself I would never deal with one of those shops again.
The young guy proved himself and came through in the opposite manner. The young guy trying to start a business was motivated and excited to help me out. Although he doesn't have a dyno like the old business, he has a block cleaner, oven, bridgeport, valve grinder and some other machines to do most work. We did end up farming out some work like the block boring/balancing but he was able to get a good amount of the work done and brought me back an assembled/painted engine in the end. I sold my 400 to help fund a lot of expensive parts but in the end, I now have a very nice built LS1.
I will do another post showing all the specs on the engine again soon.
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Sounds like a good deal, and kudos to you for giving a young guy starting out a chance. Of course after hearing of your negative experience, doesnt sound like you had a lot to loose.
My builder is very experienced, he has 3 very busy auto shops and he doesnt own a dyno. He is a racer at heart and builds a lot of motors for guys but he does have a connection that has a dyno he uses on a regular basis. Last I talked to him he was getting ready to get one for himself though.
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...At this point, I'm just going to be patient, take my time and keep plugging away slowly through this summer to hopefully get the engine fired this year.
We'll hopefully get it fired this summer. I really want to get it running sooner than later so my engine builder can verify the engine is good to go.
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda
But seriously, love that update. Keep with it and you'll get there. It's easy to get distracted or overwhelmed with a project, but if you keep doing a little bit here and there before you know it you're turning the key.
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...At this point, I'm just going to be patient, take my time and keep plugging away slowly through this summer to hopefully get the engine fired this year.
We'll hopefully get it fired this summer. I really want to get it running sooner than later so my engine builder can verify the engine is good to go.
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda
But seriously, love that update. Keep with it and you'll get there. It's easy to get distracted or overwhelmed with a project, but if you keep doing a little bit here and there before you know it you're turning the key.
Yes Master.
I still haven’t found my keys from the moving process but hopefully they turn up as I get parts together :sad: :lol: :sad:
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Fun update from yesterday. Got my Holley carburetor intake from Suspension Geek.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093120426_10583a6458_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQVADq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQVADq) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093933355_a76cd5db00_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZLir)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZLir) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Today I got around to throwing some engine primer and Pontiac Blue paint on the intake. Before anyone roasts me on my paint job, I figured it would be best to leave the pad not masked since there usually is some area of the carburetor that does not fully cover the pad.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093933375_f32ee6740e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZLiM)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZLiM) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093661813_b02f1fa209_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQYnzF)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQYnzF) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093120326_af79f7d86a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQVABG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQVABG) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093661938_725e3bf12d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQYnBQ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQYnBQ) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
After messing around with the intake, my friend came over and worked on installing 8ft LED ceiling lights I pulled from my old house. This new place had a non-functioning fluorescent light when I moved in and now this update/fix has made for a huge improvement in lighting. The pictures don't do just but this will give an idea. I was having hard to time getting my camera to focus but this is the install....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093933315_f9b474ffcc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZLhK)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZLhK) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093197589_87a6e8460e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQVZzP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kQVZzP) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Jonathan,
Motor looks great, I like that you’re staying with Pontiac paint color and old style intake. Having good lighting in your garage is invaluable, I would have been real nervous working over your car with that beautiful paint.
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Jonathan,
Motor looks great, I like that you’re staying with Pontiac paint color and old style intake. Having good lighting in your garage is invaluable, I would have been real nervous working over your car with that beautiful paint.
Thanks! Yea, I'm pretty excited to do up this engine in an original 70's appearance. A lot of people spend a lot on coil covers and other "old-school" dress up parts but I won't be going that far. Aside from the carburetor, I'll mostly be doing stock LS stuff but painted to look like a 70's engine.
Man, I wish nice paint was the case haha! I know some angles and distance make it look pretty but the car has rust in various areas and it would need a repaint to be nice. It needs much attention on the body actually. I won't be going that far in the near future but we'll see how life plays out. Right now my main focus is mechanics and getting it functioning again.
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Got some time in the garage today. Decided to wipe down my super grimy 5.3 valve covers and throw them on the LS1 to give more of a factory '79 W72 400 look to the engine. Doing this job with brake cleaner and rags wass not fun but I got it done. Results aren't the best, but it's something. After I finished cleaning the covers, I wiped down the coils/brackets and put them on. Followed up by spark plugs, wires and the oil filter to keep the engine sealed up. Last night I cleaned/painted the steam tube from my 5.3 and put it on the LS1 as well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51100714230_b1af84a757_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kRAw25)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kRAw25) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51100004752_72b386d550_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kRwT7G)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kRwT7G) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51100450183_62074885d0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kRzawx)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kRzawx) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51100004727_05e14cb382_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kRwT7g)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kRwT7g) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Looking great! What did you paint it with? Looks about the same colour as I used on my oil pan, hoping he paints the motor to match :shock:
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Looking great! What did you paint it with? Looks about the same colour as I used on my oil pan, hoping he paints the motor to match :shock:
Thanks Kerry!
Nothing exotic here haha. Just some Dupli Color engine paint in Pontiac Blue.
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I would have to check, may be the same that I used.
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It's funny how just a color makes you think it's a Pontiac. The throttle body will be the icing on the cake. Looks great!
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Engine looks good. How does it compare in weight to a Pontiac 400? I am assuming several hundred pounds less, but have no idea.
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Thanks for the interest guys.
roadking77, my idea on this car has been to incorporate many of my favorite aspects of Firebirds in general. I actually have an LS1 being finished up by someone right now and it will be mated to my original 4spd transmission. The drivetrain should shave a lot of weight. The wheels are 4 front 16x8 0 offset '84-'87 WS6 wheels I had refinished along with BFG Comp-2 255/50-16 tires. I also have 3rd generation '87 GTA seats but I'm thinking I'm going to sell those and go back to original 2nd gen seats. The 3rd gen works, they're super nice and I got them to fit the car but rears are not great for swapping and I want to have an easy/matching interior in the end.
Here was an update last week on my engine. I should have it back within the next few weeks here.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51014568972_0042fae05e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHZ131)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kHZ131) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
I have a set of those wheels, and was wondering what lug nuts you ended up using.Thanks.
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Got my carburetor today.
I never thought this would happen but this was a crazy shopping experience that took about a week to figure out. In the beginning of shopping carburetors, I was set on getting a 650 for my LS1 and after searching around, I found the prices for standard Holley 650's are pretty expensive while being on back order. Other brands such as Brawler or FST looked cool but on 1 month back order as well. After digging through the catalog/online, I ended up finding Holley 750's are not as expensive as 650's. I was surprised to see that so I started looking at a Holley 750cfm 4160 that I found for $385 but it was on backorder. After calling in on that carb, I decided to search around a bit more and found an aluminum Holley 4150 770cfm Street Avenger priced at $505 and it was in stock with Holley. After some contemplating, I decided to pull the trigger on it. This one is about $175-$200 less than Ultra Street Avengers because of the cast blocks and baseplate (Ultra's are billet) but it has the aluminum body like the Ultra carburetors which are lighter.
Holley 770 Street Avenger
-Vacuum secondaries
-Electric choke
-Quick-change vacuum diaphragm spring
-4150 dual metering blocks
-Aluminum main body, block and bowls
-clear sight bowls
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51103988229_99cebd18f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kRTigk)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kRTigk) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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langss,
For my lug nuts, I currently have to use metric tapered lugs for the front wheels because I have the "1LE Mod" which consists of using 90's B-Body spindles and 3rd Gen F-Body 12" front rotors which have the later metric thread pitch. For the rear, I currently roll the car around with standard tapered lug nuts. I have to do final fitment on the rear with the disc brake conversion because I'm using a rear end that came out of a Camaro.
5th T/A,
Your assumption should be correct. Aluminum LS blocks are about 125lbs lighter than iron LS blocks which are similar in weight to Pontiac engines. Factoring in aluminum heads, intake and carburetor, I would guess around 200lbs difference on engine. To go further on this subject, I'm bolting the aluminum engine to my original 4spd transmission and doing a 1" engine setback on the frame. My setup will probably be lighter than most LS swaps you will see because I'm not running a big/bulky overdrive auto or T56 transmission. Manual brake swap should be another 20-30lb taken out of the car. This setup should be as light and well-balanced as you can get without going too crazy on modifications. I won't be doing things like striping out the door structure or fabbing aluminum core supports like some of the racers do. These basic things I'm doing are enough for me.
FormTA,
Thanks! I was actually planning on doing one of the classic Holley carburetors with the gold zinc coating but this polished aluminum body 770 carb fell right in the same price range, is lighter and was in stock for sale. Not what I planned on initially but I think this is working out for the better.
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langss,
For my lug nuts, I currently have to use metric tapered lugs for the front wheels because I have the "1LE Mod" which consists of using 90's B-Body spindles and 3rd Gen F-Body 12" front rotors which have the later metric thread pitch. For the rear, I currently roll the car around with standard tapered lug nuts. I have to do final fitment on the rear with the disc brake conversion because I'm using a rear end that came out of a Camaro.
Thanks....I have several different sets of 3rd gen wheels and until I saw those on your car I had not considered them. I agree, they go very well with the color of your car.
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langss,
For my lug nuts, I currently have to use metric tapered lugs for the front wheels because I have the "1LE Mod" which consists of using 90's B-Body spindles and 3rd Gen F-Body 12" front rotors which have the later metric thread pitch. For the rear, I currently roll the car around with standard tapered lug nuts. I have to do final fitment on the rear with the disc brake conversion because I'm using a rear end that came out of a Camaro.
Thanks....I have several different sets of 3rd gen wheels and until I saw those on your car I had not considered them. I agree, they go very well with the color of your car.
For street-driven 67-81 cars, the 16” 3rd Gen wheels are a nice/cheap upgrade in my opinion. 16” tire selection isn’t the best but the offering for street performance tires is a lot better than what is currently available for 15”. I don’t know of any Z rated 15” tires unless you go to a full race offering.
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For street-driven 67-81 cars, the 16” 3rd Gen wheels are a nice/cheap upgrade in my opinion. 16” tire selection isn’t the best but the offering for street performance tires is a lot better than what is currently available for 15”. I don’t know of any Z rated 15” tires unless you go to a full race offering.
[/quote]Funny you mention that....I'm looking for some 16" tires for my 92 Camaro. I find the selection somewhat limited, but at the same time somewhat pricey. I'm sure I can find something that will work at a reasonable cost for a car that mostly sits.
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Got my new air cleaner yesterday. Ordered a Spectre single inlet air box kit off Amazon for $95....$135 with the cold air intake tube and mounting bracket. This is a cool piece because it's a drop base air cleaner that provides the minimum needed for Holley air cleaner clearance. The fit is great as the 4" air intake has clearance in between the coil packs. The one spot it's not clearing is it's barely touching the throttle bracket but I can address that easily with a grinder or bend.
As nice as this air cleaner is and I will use it, I do have a few points I don't like about it. The biggest issue I have with this thing is it's advertised as an air box but the whole bottom is not sealed. If you flip it over, the whole bottom is an open ring. If you built a ram air or cold air intake system, it would all bleed out on the engine before entering into the carb. The other issue I seem to have is the filter seams a little thin. The filter will work but I was not expecting it to be so thin. Guess I'm just used to thick factory type filters.
Overall, this air cleaner (I won't call it a box) is decent and good for the money. After I paint it black, it will give a factory look but it's just not was expecting based upon how it's advertised and pictured.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51117268585_eb41125e30_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kT4n3Z)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kT4n3Z) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116471396_b195c2c557_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZh5m)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kSZh5m) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51116223624_50139ca3ed_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSY1qq)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kSY1qq) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Nice progress. Looking forward to seeing the finish
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Small update for the engine.
Picked up an adapter fitting to install the '79 style oil pressure sending unit in place where the LS engine oil pressure sensor usually goes. This will get my stock '79 gauges to read oil pressure and I think this will be a better overall placement than stock for the oil pressure sending unit compared to the 70's Pontiac which was on the side of the block
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132928854_5bda1b4fbc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUrCiC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kUrCiC) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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1. Taking weight off the car is always good and an aluminum block and 200 lbs off the front end is even better.
2. Been reading and getting info on Holley carbs and it seems these are a lot easier to work with and tune that a QJ.
3. Used the Duplicolor in GM corporate blue last summer and found it to be excellent. Engine looks great.
4. Air cleaner has good size snorkel and will look good in black - a stock type look.
5. Sending unit should be perfect. Paint it black or silver?
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1. Taking weight off the car is always good and an aluminum block and 200 lbs off the front end is even better.
2. Been reading and getting info on Holley carbs and it seems these are a lot easier to work with and tune that a QJ.
3. Used the Duplicolor in GM corporate blue last summer and found it to be excellent. Engine looks great.
4. Air cleaner has good size snorkel and will look good in black - a stock type look.
5. Sending unit should be perfect. Paint it black or silver?
Thanks for the response!
-I'm pretty excited to see how this car feels with an aluminum top-to-bottom engine along with doing the 1" engine setback. It will be as light as it can get along with the 4spd transmission.
-If you're interested in reading material on carb tuning, below is a good source for links to tuning carburetors with wideband/data logging..
https://innovatemotorsports.com/resources/carb-central.php
-I do have plans to do a black air cleaner but I'm waiting for it to heat up a little bit outside before I spray again. We had a good few weeks of weather and then the past week and half got cold again. In regards to the sending unit, I'll be leaving that in the anodized finish. I think the sending unit looks very period-correct in the anodized finish.
-I haven't really put this out there on the forum but I'm in a little bit of a reaction mode with my health at the moment. I'm concentrating a little more on myself outside of work before I get back on the car for a short time. I feel fine but my liver enzymes weren't showing the best in December and I went on medication for a couple months for a foot fungus. After I did some diet adjustments per doctor recommendation, I tested again this past month and apparently my liver numbers have gotten worse and the doctor will not prescribe me more medication for my foot issue. I just scheduled a ultrasound in two weeks for my stomach and then I have another blood test coming up in June. I feel fine but I'm keeping my fingers crossed in this department and hope I don't have something lurking internally.
Jon
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Take care of yourself Jon, nothing more important than your health. The car and truck will be waiting for you when you are up to the task. I will say working on a project can be a great distraction and stress relief if you are feeling decent.
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Ditto above comments. I went through prostate cancer in 2013 so I know what health scares are like. The good news is modern medicine can take care of most issues so just follow through with it.
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Jon, sorry to hear this, take care of yourself.
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Thanks for the words in regards to the health guys. I've been better about the foods/liquids I put in my body but I still have a ways to go on the food side. Since December, I have not had any alcohol and just started drinking coffee again in moderation the past month.
I know I said I'm going to slow up from the vehicles but today I decided, "what the heck, why not?" The CEO from the company I work for announced that all employees are receiving a $1,000 pre-tax bonus/support on our upcoming checks. After this news, I ended up speaking with Dave at Pro-Touring F-Body and placed an order for some suspension parts I need. Ordered his new steering shaft kit with the upgraded stainless steel joints, front/rear sway bar bushings and HD drop links.
This should be an exciting factory style suspension. All little upgrades but highly effective without going overboard on money spent.
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Good Deal.
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Alright, got a chance to spray some paint on my air cleaner MNBob. Also, bought blank knock-delete valley cover and painted it Pontiac blue. Those two moves helped clean up the appearance a lot.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51147561991_c7eeff7894_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVJCe6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kVJCe6) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Let's switch gears to a different subject besides the engine. I currently have convex 3rd gen wheels on the car but I have been disappointed with how my local Discount Tire had them refinished and one of the tires has been leaking air. I haven't posted this on the forum but I ordered a set of Firehawk wheels that were on back order with Classic Industries. After a few weeks of waiting, I found out the wheels I ordered apparently are under development with no ship date any time soon.
Since figuring that out, I decided to modify my order to OER 3rd Gen WS6 16x8 replica wheels. These were not my first choice but the price was right and I think this new set is going to be what I want...an upgrade from original but a very factory appearing wheel. I had the 17x9 snowflake wheels back in '08-'09 when they first were released but I wanted to try something different this time around. These are 16x8 in silver and my car originally came with 15x8 in silver. The silver WS6 3rd Gen center caps are perfect for how I'm trying to build the car.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51147791433_7a24a06096_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVKNqZ)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kVKNqZ) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51148341324_d0aa3325f3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVNBTS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kVNBTS) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
It was fun to open/inspect the wheels with my kid. She was just saying, "car, car, car, car, car" while checking them out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51147791423_bfb99b67da_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kVKNqP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kVKNqP) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Motor looks great, I have serious moto envy watching you, Ryan and Larrys threads! Maybe someday I will have mine back :shock:
I like the new wheels they do look nice. But I am with you on the first choice. I thought the original set which I would call a bit convex were for the ws6 cars? If thats what they were called. Back when I had my 86 I wasnt as versed in Trans Am lingo as I am now, I just know I loved the cars. Anyway, my 85 had the upgraded performance package (which I assume was akin to the difference between the 77 cars t/a 6.6 and 6.6 litre cars) which had the 'convex' wheels. Pretty sure the base model t/a had the wheels like the new ones you pictured.
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Sorry for the multiple post, I may have missed but are you planning on mounting the shaker to the hood? I dont see how it will fit to that air cleaner, which looks great btw.
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Jon,
I like the look of the painted air cleaner, it makes a big difference.
Watching you daughter play on top of the wheel, brings back memories of when my girls would spend time with me in the garage.
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Looks great Jon! That motor looks amazing. Great attention to detail. Love pictures with the kiddos playing with cars. My youngest is about your daughters age and he does the same thing. "Car, Car"
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Motor looks great, I have serious moto envy watching you, Ryan and Larrys threads! Maybe someday I will have mine back :shock:
I like the new wheels they do look nice. But I am with you on the first choice. I thought the original set which I would call a bit convex were for the ws6 cars? If thats what they were called. Back when I had my 86 I wasnt as versed in Trans Am lingo as I am now, I just know I loved the cars. Anyway, my 85 had the upgraded performance package (which I assume was akin to the difference between the 77 cars t/a 6.6 and 6.6 litre cars) which had the 'convex' wheels. Pretty sure the base model t/a had the wheels like the new ones you pictured.
Yes, both are 3rd Gen WS6 wheels. One set is convex and the new set is concave. That “convex” wheel first appeared on the ‘84 15th Anniversary Trans Am and ended production on ‘87 Formula WS6 cars. The ones I have now were an option up until 1992 on the Formula WS6.
I really wanted the Firehawk 17x9.5 but production seems to not be happening right now. The next in line were GTA wheels but those are not in stock either. I guess no one wants these base model reproduction 3rd Gen Wheels. I guess I’ll give them a whirl haha
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Sorry for the multiple post, I may have missed but are you planning on mounting the shaker to the hood? I dont see how it will fit to that air cleaner, which looks great btw.
Doing a Turbo Hood on the car. Going for more of a later 3rd Gen look at this point.
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Motor looks great and so do the wheels!
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Well guys, upon further inspection, I did find a few dings/knicks on the wheels. There was also some gouging around where the center bore is on two of the wheels. I spoke with Classic and they’re giving me a refund. It’s a shame. I like these wheels but they have some dings on them. It’s annoying and I didn’t even use them yet. I would post pictures to show but I don’t want to waste my free Flickr memory before I have to pay.
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Well guys, upon further inspection, I did find a few dings/knicks on the wheels. There was also some gouging around where the center bore is on two of the wheels. I spoke with Classic and they’re giving me a refund. It’s a shame. I like these wheels but they some dings on them. It’s annoying but I didn’t even use them yet. I would post pictures to show but I don’t want to waste my free Flickr memory before I have to pay.
Sorry to hear of your troubles with the new wheels. I ran into the same thing a few years ago when I bought two of the GTA wheels. Fortunately I picked them up in person, and had to go through several boxes before I found 2 that were acceptable. Considering what they are asking for this stuff, I would expect the QC to be a little better. I bought a Bell Housing from them, and had to return it as well. It was cracked and welded and ground on......I had to wait almost a month until they got fresh ones to get again an acceptable one.
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I ended up speaking with Classic Industries and they're giving me a refund. I reboxed everything and shipped back on Saturday.
No progress on the car over the weekend. My big concern for vehicles right now is getting the truck I just bought up and running. I'm finding a bunch of issues with it and I'm lucky I have a neighbor who is a at-home mechanic come over and help me out.
Aside from no progress, I did get some PTFB goodies today. Heavy duty rear sway bar drop links, upgraded front sway bar bushings and the new PTFB steering shaft that eliminates the rubber rag joint. I'm excited to eventually this installed. Original WS6 sway bars but this will make the stock suspension much more effective along with better steering response/feedback.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51157407567_08c1d6b467_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWB5Yp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kWB5Yp) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Jon,
Between your car and newly acquired truck you sure have a lot going on. PTFB suspension and steering parts look high quality.
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I may have to try that steering shaft out. Keep moving forward Jon!
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Those are some nice parts! Keep it up man.
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Hey Guys,
Been a month since posting but I figured I'd share my big spend/upgrade on the engine. This past month I returned my Holley carburetor and decided to switch to Holley Terminator EFI since aftermarket carb system ignition controllers have been on back order for a while.
This EFI setup is nice but I must say I'm hurting mentally for spending over $2500 and I am feeling the build cost now :lol: :-?
Time to regroup before the next push forward.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51222388969_11451f6c87_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3m8Fp)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2m3m8Fp) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51221834958_3357bd2242_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3ihZu)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2m3ihZu) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Looking good man! Get those mounts ordered so we can see that motor in the car! :cool:
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Looks good Jon, I hear ya on the cost :shock:, thats about 2/3 of what I will have in my entire motor!
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Jon,
Holley Terminator EFI looks great. Glad to see you are moving forward.
Nothing cheap about this hobby. I’ve seen a broad range of builds from economical to the sky is the limit. Some are done quickly and others take a decade or more. I enjoy reading about all of them.
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Ya, mine was the worst of both. 10+ years and low budget.
You'll be glad you went EFI!
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Nice job on a great project!
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I have had the PTFB drop links for 3 or 4 years and am very happy that I got them! That steering shaft looks really nice; definitely will look into that.
The Terminator EFI's are said to have a lot of capabilities. Give us a report on it when you get it installed.
Having just purchased a new engine, I feel your pain. Being an old fart, I justified it as a bucket list item.
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Finally got some time in on the car today. Been so busy with work and my truck all summer.
I've been putting off doing the frame on my car so long because I've wanted to do the professional route of sandblasting, primer and paint. Today, I finally got aggravated and said, "Screw it! I'm getting this done!" Took a rag with brake cleaner and wiped down a majority of the visible spot on the frame.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51393292506_77699f93e3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mis4m7)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mis4m7) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
After that was done, I used some black rattle can spray paint to coat the frame. The paint was OER brand chassis paint. Came out pretty nice with the extremely bare minimum of prep and no primer. I didn't have any primer on the shelf, so I didn't use any. Again this was simply about getting it done and moving on at this point.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51394023584_3d114029c7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mivNEU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mivNEU) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
While on this subject, I figured I would finally show off my Lab-14 lower control arm frame reinforcements. John at Lab-14 sponsored me when he started his business years ago. His parts are an awesome upgrade for factory F-Body frames.
https://lab-14.myshopify.com/
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51394304625_1674cd5a89_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mixfdr)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mixfdr) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Long awaited test fit for me today. Set my LS1 in the frame with my '97-'04 C5 Corvette oil pan. Long story short, it pretty much fits with the minor exception of the oil drain bolt hitting the frame. I knew about this going in so I will have to address that at some point.
Driver side...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51396617784_3ee202b2f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2miK6Qu)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2miK6Qu) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Passenger side...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51396144638_7d3f4cb994_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2miGFbN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2miGFbN) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Oil pan drain bolt where it's hitting the frame...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51396894170_8f690db694_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2miLvZL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2miLvZL) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
General front view...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51395121582_3fe80b152f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2miBr4U)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2miBr4U) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Huge step forward!! Congrats, I can't wait to see more. :cool:
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Paint job looks great. Thats all I did on mine. After looking at my 77 once everything is in place you can hardly see it anyway. I though you were selling the motor?
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Paint job looks great. Thats all I did on mine. After looking at my 77 once everything is in place you can hardly see it anyway. I though you were selling the motor?
I did post an ad on a few sites along with Facebook but unfortunately no interest at all in the engine. Not even one question about it. I just took all the ads down for it over the weekend.
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Exciting stuff. I like that you painted the bock Pontiac blue. Looks right at home there!!
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Jon,
Sorry you weren't able to sell your engine, my wife has a saying everything happens for a reason, or doesn't happen for a reason. The motor looks great and should provide all the power and refinement you want or need. I know your life is busy right now, but some day when your car is finished you will be happy your motor didn't sell.
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Frame paint looks good. Motor seems to be setting right where it should be. Maybe you can cut out a little notch for that plug.
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Finally got a chance to work on the car again today. To start, I pulled the engine out, put shorter bolts on the engine hoist chains to clear the firewall and a got the engine back in the frame.
One thing I noticed was the UMI SBC motor mounts were pulling off the frame. After seeing other online forum recommendations to use 1" setback plates, I was feeling the engine needed more setback. To achieve this and "widen" out the block mounts so the frame mounts would sit flat, I simply relocated the SBC motor mount to the block mounting point on the plate as seen below. Now the motor mounts sit nice on the frame. I think my solution, at this point, will be to weld the Car Shop 1" setback plate to the new relocate position of the UMI mount.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51411126568_764e2d2221_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mk2sMW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mk2sMW) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51411622739_0ec0d8ef88_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mk51hB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mk51hB) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
With the engine shifted back a good amount, I got around to test fitting the shifter. It's back a bit but it looks like it's clearing the console (loosely installed).
Below is the 1/3 forward position...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51410117422_e51d200184_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjWhNS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mjWhNS) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Below is the 2/4 rearward position...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51411847310_e052b478b9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mk6a3w)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mk6a3w) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Now, that I got the engine set back some more, the drain bolt almost comes out. I think I can notch the frame but man is it ever so close!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51410861106_621dd15500_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mk16T1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mk16T1) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Also got to see how the pilot bearing is fitting with my phone camera. Looks good to me.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51411847315_edd3d5020c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mk6a3B)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2mk6a3B) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
I'm not much of a video guy but I did end up making a video today showing what I have going on with this setup if anyone wants to see a "live" version of what I have posted here. I'm not trying to be an entertainer or YouTube famous, so sorry in advance if this is not the most exciting video lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-qghTmb944
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Hey Jon,
I am really happy you are back to working on your car and making progress on getting the LS engine in. The oil drain plug looks close, I agree you should be able to notch the frame to provide enough clearance.
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Hey Jon,
I am really happy you are back to working on your car and making progress on getting the LS engine in. The oil drain plug looks close, I agree you should be able to notch the frame to provide enough clearance.
Thanks, it’s been a rocky road financially this year but we’ll see how everything turns out. We’re doing the best we can with what we have. I know this LS1 install is far from budget oriented but my goals from here on out is to keep the car somewhat modest. I’ll spend money on lowering springs, nice bushings, brake pads, nice clutch or other small items but I’m not trying to overdo it anymore. When I was younger, I wanted the 335 tires, mini tubs, link suspension, LS9, T56 and everything else “pro-touring”. Now that I have a family and real budget, I’m not chasing that dream anymore. There’s always going to be a new efi system, updated suspension, crazy brake kit or whatever else released.
Hopefully I can get back on it soon. Blasted out an oil change for my mom after work this evening and I need to do her driver rear brake soon. Also have a ton more work to do on the truck.
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Hey guys,
Just want to give FYI that I won’t be updating my build for a while. I was working on my truck on Monday and accidentally dropped the spindle on my finger. I hate the terminology but this unfortunately has caused an “amputation” of my finger tip. I will be needing to address important things such as health insurance, medical bills and getting back to work.
If anyone wants to check in or see how things are going, send me a PM.
Thanks,
Jon
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Jon,
This is terrible. I wish you a quick recovery. I guess better to lose a finger tip instead of an entire finger.
Hang in there, you will get past this.
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Hello Everyone,
I have unlocked this thread for commenting again. I locked my build threads when my injury occurred and have not been on the forum much this past year. Not much updates with the car this past year but I plan on getting on top of it very shortly.
Jon
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Glad to hear you are doing better. Sometime after your last post I lost access, and it took a while to figure out what was going on, so I would have missed out on any and all of your progress. Just the same its good to have you back.... Forum has been just a little dead lately.....
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Good project, good progress.
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Worked on doing some painting yesterday. I'll keep this one short.
LS truck alternator and power steering bracket pressure washed and scrubbed with a brush...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52317849636_87c1f86c43_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nH9DYh)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nH9DYh) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Painted with Rust-Oleum black engine paint...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318159563_99082fd1e3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbf6R)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbf6R) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Hung up on the engine yesterday with a brand new pump I bought at my local Autozone. Original pump from the truck engine I had was missing the cap and the reservoir was crushed by previous owner/mechanic.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52317849906_47ca70d8f0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nH9E3W)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nH9E3W) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Yesterday a friend of mine told me my factory '00-'01 F-Body LS1 look hideous, poor flowing and I should buy headers from Summit. While I did partially agree with him, he got me motivated to clean up what I have to prove a point. Factory GM LS manifolds support 400-600hp depending on the engine and the outlets are 2.5" from the factory! After I cleaned them up, I showed my friend and he ended up being impressed afterwards.
In the below picture, the one on the left is how both looked when I started yesterday. The one on the right is after pressure washing and scrubbing with a brush and degreaser.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318160148_d4363bfb0e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbfgW)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbfgW) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Here both are pressure washed and scrubbed...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52317045992_6a54ac8515_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nH5x5m)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nH5x5m) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
While the manifolds were drying, I went to my local Autozone for some paint.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318292475_df5779e7dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbVBr)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbVBr) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Here they are after I laid some paint on. I "assisted" the drying with a heat gun...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52317046607_a78c15af0d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nH5xfX)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nH5xfX) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318291375_ff0fc0e8fa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbVht)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbVht) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
And, finally, a test fit on the engine. These look 10x better being washed and painted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318160428_cdfddf82db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbfmL)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbfmL) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318160003_8b83bd8faf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbfer)August update (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbfer) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Let this be a lesson for many of us. A couple hours of elbow grease and a few dollars went a long way on this one.
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Working on the Detroit Speed hydraulic clutch conversion this evening.
To start with this project, there is an OE installed plug that's in the firewall in between the lower bolt holes for the brake booster. The plug and this factory punched hole was not allowing the DSE clutch plate to sit flush against the firewall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318191676_e5a82dc478_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbpDw)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbpDw) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Since I'm someone who likes using factory parts when I can, I ended up drilling a hole in the DSE plate to allow for the factory rubber plug to pass through.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318501368_251f4ca8c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHcZH3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHcZH3) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
After the hole was drilled in the plate, it now is able to sit flush against the firewall.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318191691_e38419f21a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbpDM)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHbpDM) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
With the plate in place, I scribed a line to find the areas where I will weld. Welding is not necessary for the installation of this bracket but Detroit Speed instructions say this is optional/recommended for a fully weather tight seal.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318620509_eb1eb98698_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHdB8c)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHdB8c) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Paint stripping tool pretty much on the areas I scribed.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52318620529_b6164023fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHdB8x)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHdB8x) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
In place and nearly ready to get welded.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52317398367_05b7790a73_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nH7kPM)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nH7kPM) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
More to come soon....
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Glad to see you making progress on the T/A! Looks great. I can't wait to hear this thing fire up!
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Great to see you back at it. Manifolds turned out great, well worth the effort.
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Haven’t welded in a few years and it definitely showed me today. The summary of my day…
-Why did my first welds look awful and not stick for crap? Oh….my gas tank was empty.
-After I got my gas tank filled, why did I just blow a hole through the metal? Oh…my settings were too high.
-Oh great, now that I’m getting my welds figured out, half of this install looks ok and the rest looks like garbage….gotta break out the grinder.
-Ok, now that these ugly ass welds are ground down, I can cover it with chassis primer so it won’t looks as bad.
-Done
Man, I gotta say for a $30-$40 clutch bracket, this was one tough install. Installing and removing the pedals and brake booster a few times to get the perfect fit is definitely a hard task along with all the marking, grinding, cutting and welding.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320542466_3e951ed239_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHosso)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHosso) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320830778_f5fe80d1a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHpWah)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHpWah) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
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Progress is progress! Doesn't look too bad from here and you can blame it on your handicap now. I'm sorry, is it too soon? :grin:
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Progress is progress! Doesn't look too bad from here and you can blame it on your handicap now. I'm sorry, is it too soon? :grin:
hahahaha.....that one took a sec for me :lol:
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Coming together, good progress my friend.
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Good to see you're back at it!
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Alright some further updates this week...
Since I don't have a driveshaft for the car and I'm going to literally be making roughly double the horsepower compared to stock, I decided I'm going to install a stronger 1350 yoke on the transmission and rear end. After speaking with a welding and performance shop, I'm going to get the axle tubes welded to the center section and install a crush sleeve eliminator while the 1310 is out and getting swapped for the 1350. I would love to do the axles, gear and differential but it's just too much money for me to spend right now.
Step 1 was take off the wheels....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320521996_97749c94c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHomns)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHomns) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Next was take out the axles to make it lighter...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320962675_d6f53b6651_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHqBnn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHqBnn) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Got the rear end out and started pressure washing and scrubbing...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52326691107_e3c72d885f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHVYer)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHVYer) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Dried up after washing...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52328067035_915b5cf9f2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ42fk)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ42fk) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Since I'm having a shop do the welding, the guy at the shop said it would be cheaper for me overall if I do as much prep work for him as I can. I got as much as I can degreased and started some light wire wheeling in the area that will be welded. I plan on doing more before I drop off at the shop....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327941399_faaf147b85_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ3nUc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ3nUc) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Axles after I degreased them...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327887168_1a9403cca8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ36Mb)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ36Mb) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Bummer....after pulling out and degreasing, I looked closer and found out there are two different axles that were in this rear end...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52326689737_807a26518c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHVXPP)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHVXPP) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Since I'm converting the car to 1988-1992 1LE front rotors, which have a metric wheel stud, I decided to buy some GM Genuine metric wheel studs along with black lug nuts for a 1992 Trans Am on Rock Auto. I'm pretty excited about this part. The drum brake rear end also has short wheel studs, so installing the 3rd gen metric studs should bring everything into correct specification.
These are the "now garbage" wheel studs that came out. Glad I took it apart and found the mismatches.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327887933_4204a58f87_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ371n)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ371n) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327888503_af248855dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ37bc)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ37bc) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
Since the axles were broken down and cleaned, I decided to throw some silver engine paint on them. Came out nice for "quick and easy". Now I'm waiting for axle studs to come in the mail.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327941584_9f07245494_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ3nXo)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ3nXo) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
After the axles were prepped, I decided to degrease, wire wheel and paint my sway bars. Factory is black. I like most things to be stock-appearance but I figured I would try something different with the silver instead. Original GM sway bars and PTFB rear drop links painted silver....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327941429_f4e2659356_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ3nUH)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ3nUH) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327645921_fa02227ac4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ1S4K)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ1S4K) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
1981-specific WS6 brake booster and aluminum/plastic master cylinder. Quickly disassembled, painted and greased. I would love to send this thing out for a zinc coat restoration but rattle can paint will have to do for now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327888373_858bb192c4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ378X)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nJ378X) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52326690707_bfdb44a0ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHVY7x)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2nHVY7x) by Jonathon Randolph (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156619454@N04/), on Flickr
A few words....
I'm pretty excited with how this rear end, suspension and brake system is coming together for being basic parts. 1988-1992 1LE front rotors, 1981 WS6 booster/master cylinder, 1979-1981 rear discs/calipers, 3rd Gen GM wheel stud conversion, Kore3 black braided stainless hoses, Hawk HP Plus pads and GM 3.42 rear gears. For the suspension/steering, I have an original GTA/IROC steering box, PTFB steering shaft, original GM WS6 sway bars, PTFB HD drop links, PTFB GT Pro leaf springs, solid leaf spring plates, Detroit Speed front springs, AFCO Racing control arm bushings on the stock arms, and non-adjustable Bilstein shocks. Wheels are '84-'87 16x8 convex WS6 with BFG Z-rated 255/50-16 tires. I like this combination, now that I think about it more, as it will be a good representation of originality, GM Performance and very slight modern enhancements.
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Nice work. Note you MUST adjust and cycle the parking brake function of the rear calipers BEFORE bleeding the brakes - otherwise you will be plagued by a low and spongy pedal.
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Seems like things are really moving along. Good progress and looks great!
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Great work, lots of progress! Those exhaust manifolds came out nice and I can see how the would flow well as they are shaped like a header. I wouldn't worry about the welding, its fine. The 81 master and booster has been a great combo for me, it has been good with the D52's in the front and Blazer rear.
Welding the axle tubes is a good idea. My welding shop also blasted the rear assembly for $20. It seems like the factory wheel studs were pretty short, if you do anything they need to be longer. I have been really happy with the PTFB drop links. Larger yokes can not hurt.
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Great work Jonathon! Love seeing all the progress. All that cleaning, sanding, preparation and painting makes for some really nice looking parts. One of the best feelings when building a car is bolting on nice shiny painted parts.
I look forward to seeing what you do with the LS to T10 adaptation.