TAC Tech => Exterior => Topic started by: TA301 on September 04, 2024, 10:17:40 AM
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The original is still OK but shows its age. Wanting to replace it with a new. All are reproductions of course. The question is there are two suppliers: OER and IDK the name. Have any of you done the replacement, what brand you used and your user experience.
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I replaced mine with one from Firebird Central I believe. Don’t recall the brand though off hand.
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I replaced mine with one from Firebird Central I believe. Don’t recall the brand though off hand.
How is the fit and quality?
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Cant help as my original is in great shape and I plan on reusing.
However I was just having a related discussion with a friend last night regarding the seal.
His shaker has holes in the perimeter and installed with a push pin type, and both of mine a 79 and 77 were glue on seals, no holes at all. Is there a rhyme or reason why?
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I replaced mine with one from Firebird Central I believe. Don’t recall the brand though off hand.
How is the fit and quality?
It fit well. I’ll see if I have any pics. Quality seems good. It’s the type with push pins which my 77 shaker didn’t have so I had to drill holes which I wasn’t thrilled about but ended up not being a big deal.
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Best I can find at the moment
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I believe I used the oer seal with the pins. I removed them and glued it down using a billion clamps. Seams fine but mine is clamped to the hood as I have a LS engine.
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The spare parts replacement used the pins, and at some stage the production also switches to them. I have a Bulletin update for revision of the shaker seal with dates etc, but can't recall if switch from glued to pins or an alteration with the pin type, think I have both. Of course, if your shaker base has no holes, you know the factory, or previous owner, or warranty guys didn't drill it. Originality aside, the pins were probably neater and quicker to do, and use within minutes, yet took them years to think of!
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Bought one from Firebird Central as well. It's OER. The pins don't line up with holes.
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Typical OER quality. I wonder if they claim it to be correct for existing shakers with pins or just to suit any where you would need to drill your own holes anyway, and therefore the pins could be anywhere, and they could reuse existing seals and just cut to length. Do they come with a template?
The NOS GM came with a template, I even have a copy somewhere folded up, can't recall why, probably just stock I picked up as a package deal. I wonder if the GM spacing matches what they claim theirs is. Then again, as mentioned before, I think there was a second revision as well. Note also, the different hole spacing for 403 shakers, that sounds like someone messed up the one pattern suits all, especially how close it is.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53973135415_a0384b59f6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeqqLg)NOS GM Trans Am shaker seal template 77-81 (4) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeqqLg) by Ben (https://www.flickr.com/photos/196419001@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53973020839_2e5d9c108a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qepQGP)NOS GM Trans Am shaker seal template 77-81 (3) (https://flic.kr/p/2qepQGP) by Ben (https://www.flickr.com/photos/196419001@N03/), on Flickr
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Yes, they come with the template.
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Mine being a 1981 301NA has the seal mounting clip holes. So, which brand is good, OER or non-OER, if anyone has used it?
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I have 2 403 Shakers. The one original to my 78 car and one from the 79 front clip I bought for the car. Both are the "Glue On" style. The Original was like a Rubber Band, no glue, stretched tight. The 79 had glue everywhere, came off like it was never glued at all.
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The paperwork I looked at yesterday seemed to indicate the change to pins was early 79, it suggested how to install the revised seal kit on 77, 78 and early 79 models.
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Original owner here. My car was built in early March of 79. The seal is glued on with the split at the rear near the windshield. I did have to re-glue it with weatherstrip adhesive and it has held up for more than 10 years.
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I forgot to mention, the original seal was held together with (2) metal staples where the two ends meet. Now it may have been glued originally from the Factory as there is some trace of off color smear here and there, but it went back on as I said above, like a rubber band. In fact it is so formed that it just literally wouldn't go on any other way.