TAC Tech => Tires, Brakes & Suspension => Topic started by: b_hill_86 on September 02, 2024, 10:36:37 AM
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Not to bead a dead topic to death but gonna be doing these soon. Aside from the frequently mentioned need to spray with penetrating oil a week or so prior is there anything to expect or prepare for especially given I’ll be doing this on a fully assembled and driving car. Looks like I can get to the core support ones easy enough and the rear. How about the middle ones?
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I replaced all of the body bushings with the subframe in place and the engine/transmission installed but no fenders, front bumper nor hood.
The core support you can do one bushing at a time. The transmission brace is one side at a time too. You will have to support the transmission and loosen the mount but not remove [ unless the mount bushing must be replaced] The subframe to main body bushings will be more involved with a fully assembled car.
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When I did mine I removed bottom bolt on fender and was able to pull out enough to remove inner fender. They are easy to get at then, also on the passenger side I replaced the blower mother and heater code, not an easy job! Heatercore that is.
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I’ve pulled the inner fender before I was just hoping to avoid having to for this.
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For those who have done it, has anyone replaced with rubber? I know the popular choice is poly or solid mounts but I’ve read conflicting information about going solid. This car is a driver and frequent at that so I’m tempted to stick with rubber to maintain the best ride quality.
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I’ll end the discussion with myself just by throwing up a tip. In following along with the suggestions to use penetrating oil on the cage nuts I decided rather than hoping blindly to try another route.
I have a cheap borescope that I taped a small plastic tube to the end of which I attached to my PB blaster can so I was able to see exactly where I was spraying the oil to ensure the cage nuts got doused. Just a tip for anyone doing this in the future.
https://youtu.be/oBVD9A_mPiQ?si=YZBYXaCBSuTJS474
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Thats pretty cool. Did you get to doing the change out yet? Overall theyre not really all that tough other than getting the stuck bolt out.
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Not yet. I was hoping to this coming weekend but I’m not sure I’ll have the opportunity
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What did you decide to go with? I have the solid aluminum mountain on my TA and I have poly on my formula. I can tell you this. I don't like poly... dang squeaky stuff. Love my solid aluminum mounts. No harshness at all not sure why they didn't do it from the factory. I guess they figured it out on the 3rd gen as the suspension has the only isolator between the road and the seat.
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I cant remember what I put on the 79, they may be solid but I will check later today. I am pretty sure I have the poly on my 77. Like Luke says, my car has more squeaks than you can shake a stick at. I never considered it being the body bushings? I just thought it was the leaf springs. The ride is nice and solid, just squeaky as heck (almost as bad as my 2014 F 150, LOL).
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I purchased poly. From what I’d read from other experiences the poly body bushings didn't squeak like poly suspension bushings.
Luke, I assume the formula hasn’t been on the road with the poly right?
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Put solid on mine plus subframe connectors, no harshness, no squeaks. If you didn't know they were there you wouldn't know. Really tightened the car up
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Well, since I have these I’m going to try them. I planned to give it a shot this weekend and with working 10 hour shifts and 2 kids who knows when I’ll get the chance after this lol
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No, you are right. The Formula hasn't been on the road with the poly body mounts. Kerry, I don't know if the body mounts would squeak as much as all the other mounts do but I wouldn't rule them out. My car has mote than a few squeaks but not horrible. I did lube the heck out of all the poly I installed. Not saying this is correct but if I had to do it again with the formula and only having the poly mounts on hand I think I would cover them in anti seize to minimize squeaking. Anything has to be better than rubber mounts. Flexible frame attachment points is such a horrible design. It doesn't let the suspension actually function as it should, and it doesn't help hold body panel alignment at all. I think you will definitely see an improvement in how solid things feel once you get them installed
Good luck getting them done. Everything seems to take 2-3 times longer than you think it should. Let us know how it went and how it feels once you get to drive it.
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Poly squeaks and failures are from twisting forces, such as control arms, and a much lesser extent swaybar bushes. Compression forces such as spacers and body mounts don't make a noise or have failures of the same sort.
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Will do Luke.
Ben, that was my assumption but I guess we’ll see what happens
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Welp, this project may wait till later. I got the rearmost ones to break loose without any major issue. The firewall set however gave me a hassle. I bent the cage by mistake and that nut spins on the passenger side. The drivers would’ve done the same had I continued so it looks like the inner wheel wells are coming out. No huge deal but I prefer not to remove them when I can avoid it. That said, I have some work in the bulkhead connector I’d like to do and also want to replace or rebuild (actually just re-plate) my break booster and replace my master cylinder so I may do all of this at the same time which means I’m gonna keep driving the car for now rather than put it out of commission with as little time I have to work on it.
I shall return here when the time comes.
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My car has no panels on it if you need pics showing the firewall area and ways to get at it with minimal fuss.
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That may be helpful if you’re willing. I did have my borescope positioned appropriately so I could see what was happening for the most part. It seems like having the fender removed should give enough room to get in there, but I guess I don’t know for sure.