TAC Spotlight => Projects & Restorations => Topic started by: roadking77 on February 08, 2021, 07:22:37 AM
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Hoping the old threads come back :?, but just in case I will restart my old thread. Not much mechanical info, motor is still at the shop, I will be checking in today, hopefully the block is back from the machinist.
I have been doing bits and pieces in my small heated shop. I have found that when some larger tasks seem too daunting, thats a good time to work on the little stuff. That way when the time comes you have your stash of plug n play parts ready to go. Most of the int. trim was finished last winter. Last couple of weekends was the steering column. The tilt is nice and tight so it just need a tear down, clean and paint. I did break the hazard knob so I ordered new from firebird central. I cleaned all of the switches with electric contact cleaner so I hope they will be good to go. Ordered a new key switch from Ames, waiting for it to come in so I can get things buttoned up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912534908_6a2a467d62_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyY3S1)2021-02-05_07-52-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2kyY3S1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912841197_c8b6371cf6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyZBUR)2021-02-05_04-19-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2kyZBUR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912712471_9d094f4f16_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyYXDr)2021-02-05_04-19-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2kyYXDr) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Re did the collar. Stripped off the old with my trusty little battery die grinder and a medium then fine roloc. Took all of 10 minuts. Then I put the collar on my shop furnace for a few minutes to warm it up. Sprayed with VHT wrinkle paint. I have to say it even impressed me. Came out darn near perfect. THEN, I put some colour to it with SEM :( :( The SEM melted off the wrinkle coat. Strip it back down, wrinkle coat again, this time some rustoleum primer and then the SEM. Worked the second time around with primer, but the extra layer of paint concealed the wrinkles a bit. SO, I am thinking third times a charm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50891577782_3aa677c8a3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kx7D3f)2021-01-30_01-21-26 (https://flic.kr/p/2kx7D3f) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Nice work Kerry! That steering column looks brand new and the collar looks great.
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Cleaned up and painted the bottom of the shaker. I recently got this from a local source, very nice, uncut and still had the factory nipple for the drain tub. I painted the metal plate satin black, and cleaned the bare fibreglass.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50891420838_20fddd4b93_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kx6Qoj)2021-01-30_05-12-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2kx6Qoj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912842327_628a088995_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyZCfk)2021-02-05_04-20-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2kyZCfk) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Another little project, I had a rear sway bar made, so I cleaned it up a bit and sprayed with 'shark hide'. This part is ready to install as well.
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Thanks Ryan, compared to your mechanical skills this is pretty basic stuff, but I figure what the heck it all needs done.
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That shaker cleaned up nicely, great work as usual Kerry.
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Ya, that shaker really surprised me too! The steering column looks amazing as well. It's surprising how many small items there are to restore. It's good you get them done now, so they don't slow you later.
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Kerry,
I am always amazed at how well everything you touch turns out.
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Thanks Larry. Im not very mechanically minded so motor work is my shortcoming right now, But I can clean and paint stuff :shock:
Guess I will start on the 'show' side of the shaker now. I have way too many small projects started and nothing finished, including the steering column. I am waiting on a shipment from Ames for the new key switch. I ordered that and a couple of small things last monday, I also ordered the hazard knob from Firebird Central on the same day. Got the knob on Friday, still waiting on Ames. Their service is usually better, but a bit of a let down this time around.
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Kerry,
You give me and others incentive to keep moving forward. When you take a worn out part and make it look like new or sometimes better, that's restoration, really kind of an art form. I am more mechanically inclined. I used to paint but haven't for years. When the weather gets better I will dust off the cobwebs in my brain and relearn what I have forgotten.
I have been ordering parts from various vendors and the delivery times are all over the place from the same vendor. I am sure the weather has been a factor as well as the pandemic. In the grand scheme of things I am not going to complain. Not like my health or livelihood is depending on prompt delivery.
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Shaker came up nicely with date stamps intact, easy to remove with the slightest cleaners or scrubbing.
What's the blue paint blob or sticker on the column, inspection stamp?
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Yes the date stamps are still on the shaker, I worked carefully not to remove although they are not correct for my car!
Yes, the blue dot is a sticker. There was one on there before I started the cleanup. At first I thought it was just something on there, then I saw a couple more pics that also had them present. I was 'told' that it was a factory marking, so I figured what the heck. Im not really that guy that wants to replicate factory markings but.......since it was there :-?
There was also a green paint marker check mark on the bottom side of the mounting plate. I put that back too, although that will be covered over with the foam seal.
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Question about the shaker. The one I have is in very nice original condition, I think? The top is painted white and I havent started working on that yet so I dont know how many coats of paint are on there. The complete underside, inside the scoop and even the outside of the black metal plate were bare fibreglass. Was this how the factory painted these? Paint on the top, bare underneath?
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Before resto.
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Kerry,
To answer your question on shaker paint.
This is a picture of my 1980 301, top
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50926744563_18f444b106_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAdSU4)IMG_7668 (https://flic.kr/p/2kAdSU4) by Lawrence Alexander (https://www.flickr.com/photos/188552644@N06/), on Flickr
Here is the underneath of my 1980, 301. The fiberglass shaker is unpainted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50927427676_866ca8876b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAhnXS)IMG_7669 (https://flic.kr/p/2kAhnXS) by Lawrence Alexander (https://www.flickr.com/photos/188552644@N06/), on Flickr
Here is another picture of the underneath showing the baseplate. It looks like the baseplate started out black but has white overspray from when the top was painted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50927481071_efd23361e7_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAhDQt)IMG_7671 (https://flic.kr/p/2kAhDQt) by Lawrence Alexander (https://www.flickr.com/photos/188552644@N06/), on Flickr
Here is the underneath of the fiberglass portion of a spare I have, not sure what year, but it looks unpainted. I cant say for sure how a TATA might have been, but its unlikely Pontiac painted anymore than what they had to. Hope this helps!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50926744613_edb271876b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAdSUV)IMG_7670 (https://flic.kr/p/2kAdSUV) by Lawrence Alexander (https://www.flickr.com/photos/188552644@N06/), on Flickr
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Thanks Larry, thats perfect, great pics. Makes sense that the bottom would have overspray, after all of the work I did to make mine look purdy on the bottom I guess I will not tape anything off when I paint the top. I am not one for replicating factory marks, stickers etc. And when I started this resto all I wanted to do was a quick paint, motor rebuild, get it on the road, drive for a month then sell. The longer I work on it, and the deeper I get into the rabbit hole the more correct I have become about markings, date codes etc. Why Oh Why ??
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The bottom of mine was unpainted as well,
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:D
The bottom of mine was unpainted as well,
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Kerry, it is always great to see your progress reports on your cars. It is amazing how you can preserve much of the original parts on the car. Very impressive!
Jim
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We had a really cold spell, then I caught up working on the shop ceiling. Now things are put back in their place and spring is here I would like to get back on the car. Finishing the bottom stalled last fall. So I figure may as well pick up there. I dropped the fuel tank yesterday (no sticker, but being a Norwood car I was told there wouldnt be) and pulled the pass side fuel lines. Silly me had a wild thought that I may be able to blow them out and clean them up. They literally fell apart in my hand, SO on to get new lines. I am glad as I knew better and should have just got them from the start. Fuel tank is a bit banged up so I will get a new one of those as well.
Havent talked to my motor guy for awhile, but last time I did he said the blocked had to be dipped several times to get rid of all the rust but it was going to fine. I expect that it is back at his shop by now, hoping to stop by this week and check.
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Caught up and re-subscribed
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Weather breaking, finally back in the shop getting some small stuff finished. Checked with the mechanic, block is still at the machinist. I was really hoping I would have had it back by now but I have other stuff to keep me busy. I took the fuel tank out, after cleaning the trunk floor looked brand new. I coated and re painted but no metal work needed. Nice to have a relatively rust free car! Silly me thought I could blow out and clean up the fuel lines, they literally fell apart in my hand after removal. Tank has a couple of big dents in the bottom that I dont like, if I cant get them out it will be replaced. Bottom side of car is finished, I just need to install new fuel lines (need to be ordered) then I can take it off the cribbing. At that point I can remove the rear end for a rebuild. In the meantime I started the resto on my wiper motor, got the arms done. Transmission was painted all black at one time, I used some paint stripper and then a power washer to clean it up a bit. Shop is going to tear into and rebuild it. He also said he would clean the case but I figure I would give him a little better to start with.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51060249007_1d61419ab1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kN287P)2021-03-21_04-03-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2kN287P) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Looking great Kerry!
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I was able to get the gas tank straps on edge into a mortar mixing tub. Filled it to cover them with Evaporust and waited a few days. They came out good.
My Super T10 had a bad leaky front seal after 38K miles so you might want to check that. Tranny looks great!
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Yea, the guys gonna tear it apart for a once over, replace all wear items.
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That paint stripper did an amazing job on the transmission! That is really impressive!
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Thanks Luke, It was covered with black paint. I used some stuff from Lowes, it did work really well. I was a bit concerned about pressure washing, but figured what the heck, its gonna get wet driving in the rain, and I am going to have it completely torn apart for a rebuild so nothing to loose. I did find the s/n under the paint that matches the s/n of my car :grin:. I was told it was the original trans, and figured it was but the proof is so much better than speculation. SO, the only part not original to the car is the carb, but I do have a correct replacement.
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Talk about value adders!
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Just got another piece of 'gold' in the mail yesterday. Found a really nice air cleaner housing. Stripped it down, hope to get a coat of paint on it tomorrow. Pics to follow.
Motor is still at the machinist :sad: I asked the guy if he needed more money, but he said no. I have already paid a decent deposit but figure the guy with most in the pot goes to the head of the class.
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Picked up a really nice air cleaner. Spent a few minutes with my friend the paint stripper (sorry, its not a girl), a scotchbright with some paint thinner, then my fine grit roloc on the angle grinder.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51074530787_91a2c91128_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kPhjAp)2021-03-26_05-05-17 (https://flic.kr/p/2kPhjAp) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I realized since the reboot I didnt have any pics of the car itself so I will post some up here. From it being a barn find (not actually, just stored in a barn temp until I got it home to my shop) through the present. Not nec. in order
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1956/44836289522_695149570d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bj2GNw)2018-09-24_09-45-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2bj2GNw) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/1913/44166168534_2705abb7ba_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ahPabo)2018-09-24_09-45-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2ahPabo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Congratulations on finding the correct air cleaner, I think they are really getting harder to find. Also nice to be able to compare the before and after body and paint pictures, the car has really come a log way, looks great. At this point you are probably getting a little anxious to have your engine back.
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Happy for you, I'm glad you were able to find the correct air cleaner. If you don't mind can you please see if you can find any stamped numbers/ markings, etc.
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That is coming together nice. It's my favorite stock model of Trans Am.
Not surprising it looks amazing...you do great work and gives the rest of us a DIY level to aim for!!
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Jack, I had the air cleaner down to bright metal entirely. Other than the A/C logo at the 'vaccum port?' on the snorkle there are no markings at all.
Larry, Yes, I cannot wait to get the motor back. I had hopes of having the car on the road by early summer, but I suppose its fall now.
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Great stuff Kerry. You are a true Craftsman with both wood and metal.
JT
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51095403098_d25fda034a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR8icQ)2021-04-04_04-25-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2kR8icQ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Been working on misc small stuff waiting on the big day! Got a coat of semi gloss on the air cleaner, still a couple of parts to install on that to finish, cleaned and painted the linkage and side cover of the trans. I got a 'Hurst Pit Pack' from Ames, this has the new brass bushings and correct spring clips for the linkage connections. I put in pics of the old misc. worn out stuff I removed and a pic of what the new looks like. Anybody that has one of these trans should spend the $14 and replace that stuff. It made a world of difference in how tight the linkage is now.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093577420_bdda048dc2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQXWuC)2021-04-03_06-30-38 (https://flic.kr/p/2kQXWuC) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
How many people have a Hurst equipped work bench :grin:
Polished the corroded handle up nicely, and took some oooo steel wool to the handle to get rid of the rust. Still a bit of pitting, but it is def. servicable. I was thinking of 1. getting a new one-$400 :shock: OUCH, not gonna do that. 2. get this one replated, but after cleaning I think the bad will be under the boot and hidden. So gonna live with it as is for now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51092843144_06a3e0f158_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQUbdG)2021-04-03_06-31-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2kQUbdG) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Washer connector broke on Wiper motor(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51094864511_2569f3bdb0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR5x6R)2021-04-04_04-27-04 (https://flic.kr/p/2kR5x6R) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51094864936_729e5a0f2e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR5xeb)2021-04-04_04-27-15 (https://flic.kr/p/2kR5xeb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Another $10 part from Ames, I didnt check but with the part no. GM parts direct may have it for cheaper, or maybe even NAPA
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51095667970_f9f5f1a7bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR9DWA)2021-04-04_04-27-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2kR9DWA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I didnt like that the replacement was black, there are 2 options, the white one which looks more correct is at a right angle not straight. Once installed if I find the white one will work I will swap it out.
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Last pic for now is of the bottom of the trunk floor after I took out the fuel tank. Its nice not to have to deal with rust!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51095421138_e1ecb908e1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR8oyS)2021-04-04_04-34-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2kR8oyS) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Other than getting some small stuff taken care of nothing major happening. Going to make by weekly check with the shop to see if the motor has come back from the machinist yet. I ordered a new gas tank and fuel lines to be delivered to the Carlisle show, that saved about $400 in shipping. Wont have them until at least the 21st though. In the meantime trying to get some stuff put back together.
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Ooh, I didn't realize this was a 4 speed car. This should be a fun option to your 77.
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Ooh, I didn't realize this was a 4 speed car. This should be a fun option to your 77.
Absolutely!! Biggest reason I bought it to begin with. I was talking to Ryan at one time when he was about to switch out his motor, and came within inches of buying his. But, I figure the biggest value this car has is the original 4 speed drive train. I have driven a lot of trans ams, going back to 1980. I have NEVER driven one that is a 4 speed!! Very much looking forward to it.
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I can attest that he was very close to buying haha. Kinda wish he did, but I understand why not.
My 76 had that exact same shifter in it when I bought it. Very comfortable in the hand.
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Kerry,
It’s been almost a year now since I joined TAC. In that time I have been watching you turn various parts and assemblies that look like crap into a beautifully restored part. I am still amazed every time you do it. Your a very talented person, great inspiration for me and others on TAC on what elbow grease and TLC can do.
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Kerry, was thinking hard about buying Ryan's LS combo for my 67. That was a great deal! I half wish my car was still the 301 4 speed but I love the LS power and ease of use. I really wish I would have bought a LS 5 speed donor car but the price was right for what I got.
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One little piece at a time. Didnt get to check on the motor in the last couple of weeks. Kinda dont want to hear the bad news (that its still at the machinist). I hope to drop by one of these days and see a nice long block on the engine stand!
In the meantime I am trying to get all of the little bits that need refreshed done and put back. One small thing was the wiper arms and motor. I had re finished the motor, got a kit to patch the pump back up and was ready to roll. Then there was a thread on the py forum regarding the date/product sticker. This discussion led to proper finish. I painted the bottom half of my motor satin black, same as I did on my 77. I have seen a few restored this way figured it was right. WRONG. The original had a slight goldish tint on the bottom half. I scraped off my sticker and found remnants of the original hue. So I stripped it down again and lightly misted some gold spray. May not be perfect but it looks closer to correct than black.
I also ordered a correct date coded sticker from ECS, it is close but does not match the original in size and layout. Oddly enough I have a buddy restoring a similar car and he too got a sticker from ECS. The one he got looks perfect!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51101715289_5a142bb4ea_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kRFDAH)2021-04-07_06-27-47 (https://flic.kr/p/2kRFDAH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Very faint gold under where the sticker was.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51107151862_a443300180_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSavGJ)2021-04-10_04-05-59 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSavGJ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51107626938_3b7a786354_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kScWVG)2021-04-10_04-06-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2kScWVG) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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OK, I'll pack mine up and ship it to you. I haven't even got to it yet, it's still in a box somewhere....
Yours looks amazing! You really do some great work!
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Thanks Luke, send it out :grin:, the plastic cover was broke in a few places. I was searching and couldnt find one so I patched this one up with some 'glass and bondo. Far from perfect but it looks better than cracked. Ames had them in their cat., I was surprised to see them so I placed an order. Something like $75 for the whole unit. BUT it was back ordered. I still have my eyes out looking for one.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51137714392_aeba0fb3f7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kUS9SU)2021-04-25_05-17-16 (https://flic.kr/p/2kUS9SU) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51139497855_68db78c583_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kV2i3g)2021-04-25_05-17-26 (https://flic.kr/p/2kV2i3g) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Block off plate in the air plenum cleaned up with a new seal. I have been looking all over for some foam rubber that is like the original. No luck. Guy had Carlisle had a 500ft roll of this stuff, tore a piece off the corner and gave it to me. Its a bit thinner than the original but will work in the meantime.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51139496820_73066ce7fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kV2hJq)2021-04-25_05-16-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2kV2hJq) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
And my haul, new fuel tank from firebird central, along with new fuel lines (sending unit was backordered), new cold case radiator. I did get the driver side line installed over the weekend now I need to get the pass side lines in. Still waiting for word on my motor :(
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I wanted to go to Carlisle so bad this year, but I'm tapped out... I'll definitely be there next year though. Might even grab a vendor spot. :cool:
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Kerry,
Looks like a nice haul from Carlisle. I always wanted to attend one of their events, but it’s a long way for me. Trying to work something out where I can visit my daughter and grandchildren in Alexandria VA and make Carlisle as a side trip.
Hope you hear back on your engine soon.
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Radiator was kinda spur of the moment. Kinda like Jonathon, Wed my 'liquor money' came in!! I am a resident agent for a store, only strings attached is I get a nice stippend once a year when the license needs renewed. I typically use that as my 'play' money. Its not retirement money but I did get my parts out of it!
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Good way to spend the play money...something that still retains some sort of value and brings added value to your asset ;). I’ve been thinking about getting one of those Cold Case radiators myself. They sell them for LS swap vehicles with inlent/outlet on the passenger side.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51156628582_225ca60db6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWx6pC)2021-05-04_08-20-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWx6pC) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Still not much going on but the 'behind the scenes' boring stuff. New fuel tank along side the old one. New sending unit installed need to get some more tubing then I will have it ready for install. I got this from Firebird Central, picked up at Carlisle show to save on shipping. I am very happy with it and wanted to get one with the neck soldered in place. Some sell the necks loose. Also picked up fuel lines. The supply line on the driver side fit really good, not perfect but with a bit of tweaking worked out. The pass side return and vapor lines werent even close. I was able to re bend the return line to make it work but it looks a bit sloppy. The vapor line was non existent, and there was 1 line included that I am still trying to figure where it goes? I ended up getting some nicop off of amazon and bending my own. As typical of all the plumbing jobs I do 3 trips to the 'hardware store' are involved. I didnt order enough tubing the first go round, next order to be in on thursday. Needed to order spring wrapping the stuff I had was too small. And a trip to a couple of stores to get a good tubing bender.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51157529783_2a3cf6a16e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWBHiz)2021-05-04_08-20-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWBHiz) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
My original vent line and the nicop straightened from the coil
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51158399900_fdf2e0b3bc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWGaXA)2021-05-04_08-20-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWGaXA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New one bent up. Need the spring then I can put this in place. Not perfect but I am sure it will be as close as the return line I installed.
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Looks great Kerry. I love NiCopp.
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Kerry,
Nice job on the tubing bends. Having recently done some of this myself, I have an idea of what you went through. As Ryan mentioned NiCopp is great to work with, a lot more flexible than hard steel. If you have to tweak a line a little to make it fit, it's pretty easy to make small adjustments with your hand.
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Nice restoration. How did you determine where to overlay the dark gray over the silver ? Did you lay it out with decals or measure off another 10th Anniversary. We are at this stage ourselves.
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Super impressed with the bending skills! I made a couple of attempts at a couple of different lines. Thankfully, I'm wasn't doing a stock restoration...'cause I was pretty bad at it. I ended up using pre-bent lines for the brake system and rubber coated PTFE for everything else (Fuel system, Trans cooler, and Power steering).
The new lines look great!
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Thanks Tom, The pre bent stuff def looks better, and the nicop bends super easy. But tucked up under the car they look fine together. I started awhile ago with brake lines and wasnt 100% happy so I ended up buying pre bent front to back brake lines. Then I decided what the heck and bought the fuel lines. The big problem was that the pass side lines werent even close to fitting. They were marked for a 79 trans am but I think that was a mistake.
Olds, I did several things with the paint scheme. First thing I study pictures of these cars and minute details almost daily. The good thing is there are still a lot of original's to look at. I surmised that the top door edge colour change is split by the mirror base, so I used that as a starting point. I paralleled that line down the door top. The over the roof width is pre determined (got the measurement from an original car), and for the life of me cannot remember what that distant is off hand. I can get it for you. Something like 1-1/4". I had some traces of original paint on the door jambs so that helped me align all the points. My biggest hurdle was the swoop across the fender top that is the transition from the door to the hood. I traced an original paint car at a show and made a paper template. I also have an original paint hood that I temp. installed to make sure every thing lined up. Hope this helps, let me know if I can offer any thing else.
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Thanks Roadking
Ours is very close to this stage so anything you can share is appreciated
Mike
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As the others mentioned, those came out great!!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51156628582_225ca60db6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kWx6pC)2021-05-04_08-20-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2kWx6pC) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Old tank beside new one. Old tank looked ok, bottom was pushed in a bit and I probably could have reused it. But, one thing I want new on my car is fuel and braking systems. New tanks dont cost that much, my philosophy is to put the best in I can even if I have to wait a bit longer to do so. I dont drink, smoke, gamble, or chase wild women (anymore) so my spare money goes into the car.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183735059_514dbf6841_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYW2dF)2021-05-16_01-05-21 (https://flic.kr/p/2kYW2dF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Cleaned up and sealed, all of the lines in place and stenciled. Back on the shelf for the time being until I get the rear back in place.
There is a bit of work that goes into the fuel tank out of the box. The sending unit needs installed, new return lines and new vapor lines need to be fabbed. The fuel supply line is already there and I got a tank that had a soldered neck in place. The one thing I had to swap from my other tank is the ground wire.
No comment on motor work :sad: I did get all of the lines finished underneath and am pretty much finished on the bottom. So, I took the car off of the cribbing to set it back on its feet, propped up the rear from under the frame and ready to remove the rear end. This should be the last major task I have before the motor. Plan on removal and rebuild, new lines brakes, etc.
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New tank looks good. Did you have to apply the US steel stencil? Is it date coded? I didn’t even know they were available.
I also agree on the one piece tank with the neck soldered on since that’s the way the factory did it. My tank came with a rubber hose to connect the neck. Going straight in the angle wasn’t exactly correct, so I had to compensate a little or it would have been too low.
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I got the stencil from Ames, they have several dates, my car being march 79, dec 78 was the closest I could get. For what it is, a bit pricey but I figured what the heck. Right now is probably the only time anyone will ever see it. I have a buddy restoring a car with a similar time frame and same drivetrain. I thought after I used the template I would put it in the mail and let him use it too. No dice, its a sticker with the negative cut out. Put the sticker on the tank, spray paint then peal the sticker off. One shot and done. Tank was kinda just dull and had a lot of marks on it. I did a rub down with 4-0 steel wool then sprayed the whole thing with shark hide.
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May 17th, gas tank update.
Anything happen since then or has your attention been on getting the garage wiring squared away?
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Charlie, been busy with work, the weather has been unseasonably hot (118 heat index today), and of all things I was sick for about 4 straight days. So not much has been going on. I did finally get the rear out, I started cleaning it up yesterday. I will post some pics when Im done that project. Its pretty much the last 'big' thing to do before the motor comes in.
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Hope your feeling better and nothing serious going on.
I’ll be watching as to how you paint your differential. I see many painted black, but I believe they were not painted at all. The driveshaft and differential were the only parts underneath that I didn’t clean up on my car because I thought I would be changing rear axle ratios. I am planing painting the center section with Eastwood cast blast and maybe the axel tubes too. You seem to have a good handle on how things were done by the factory, so I am curious to what you will do.
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As far as I know everything was left in the raw, and naturally flash rusted right away. The axle tubes are steel, mine were pitted in some parts too bad to go back natural. Which was a shame as some parts polished up perfect. The pumpkin is of course cast, and I am really happy with how mine is coming out. I have almost all of the rust off and the bare cast is showing very nice. I am having an internal debate right now to 'shark hide' or put a cast iron paste on like what is used on exhaust manifolds. I am going to paint the tubes a steel replicating colour. My cover is pitted pretty bad I was gonna clean, fill and paint but new ones dont cost that much so I am thinking that is the route I will go.
Yes, feeling a bit better, had a bad head cold and chest congestion. Hard to breathe for a couple of days with the heat and humidity.
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Still no motor news :(, I wasnt planning on putting anything up until the rear was finished but since I had my flickr open.
Leaf spring mid resto. Rust remover, die grinder, and brass wheel. Still some work but I think they will be fine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51250005298_bff9783d79_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m5MF41)2021-06-15_07-26-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2m5MF41) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51248162034_163f6502f0_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m5Ce7A)2021-06-14_05-09-53 (https://flic.kr/p/2m5Ce7A) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51250602859_47dee6804d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m5QJFM)2021-06-15_07-58-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2m5QJFM) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Before and After of the brake caliper.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51247606443_6d41fc1fc5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m5znXr)2021-06-14_05-12-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2m5znXr) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Partial pic of the rear. Diff is cleaned about as good as I can get it. Covered the bare with shark hide. Now I need to pull the axles so I can get the backing plates off, then I can paint the tubes.
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Nice work Kerry.
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Sure looks good Kerry. If you didn’t post the before pictures it would be hard to appreciate the transformation.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51305515299_ddfa0e0b3e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2maGbeZ)2021-07-11_02-14-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2maGbeZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Rear is all but ready for install. I sent out the backer plates and front mount cups to powder coat. Was supposed to be back by the 4th of July but still waiting. Once I have these I can finish this thing. Install, then put the fuel tank in.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51304050012_4ea34ee168_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mayEEq)2021-07-11_02-14-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2mayEEq) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Pile of parts on the work bench ready to go. New rotors, new calipers, got the prop shaft painted and ready to go.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51311727768_c4d4638268_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mbf1Zw)2021-07-14_02-45-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2mbf1Zw) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51311728023_2daa16a214_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mbf24V)2021-07-14_02-45-31 (https://flic.kr/p/2mbf24V) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
These are the bolts from the backer plates. They were REALLY rusty. I soaked them in the rustoleum equivalent of evaporust. Sprayed it down with H2O and then hit with a wire wheel. I prefer using original hardware if possible, of the shelf stuff doesnt look right a lot of times. These were in good shape and I dont think they have a lot of stress so good to re-use. On the other hand I did use new u bolts and t bolts for the rear to spring mount.
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Looking good Kerry, all up to your usual high standards.
I agree with using original hardware if possible. I have seen the bolts that attach the subframe rust to less than half the original diameter. So for critical fasteners I understand the need to replace.
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Nice job on the rear & parts! Did you fill & smooth the axle tubes & drive shaft? They look remarkably pit free.
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Yes, I used filler primer with several coats. Was gonna put a coat of glazing on decided against. Did the same for the back cover plate. I was wanting to polish them back to bare steel (which they should be) but they were just too bad to do so with success. Same with the drive shaft.
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Looks great Kerry. Glad you are able to continue to share this project with us.
JT
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Nice job on cleaning up those rusty parts! I have done that before so I know it's some work.
I have a rehabbed factory bolt box where I put anything worth saving. Some of them have built in washer heads or indented heads so they are nice and most are really strong too.
I also purchased a Cold Case radiator today so we will see how that works out.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51342799165_2696e5a243_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mdZgrg)2021-07-28_06-45-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2mdZgrg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Parts back from the powder coater. A bit rougher than I wanted. I was debating on sanding and filling and spray bomb painting but figured that would end up making these a $75 sand blast job. Not as pretty as I would like but in the end this is probably the closest anyone will ever see them.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51341783751_d96534f40e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mdU4A8)2021-07-28_06-46-10 (https://flic.kr/p/2mdU4A8) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I got calipers from Firebird central. They told me they are for camaro, a bit different than the stock I have but those are unobtanium. I have rebuild kits for mine and plan on doing so just because, but will use these in the meantime. I need to get the lines hooked up but it doesnt look like the ones I have, also from firebird central will bolt up without some major contortion. I may end up bending my own for this part. I still have plenty of material left so I wont fight with these too long. Once the lines are hooked up I believe I can finally get this back to the car then move forward.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51352194366_516bb70b81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mePqiu)2021-08-02_07-07-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2mePqiu) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
SUCCESS!! Pretty nice weekend weather wise. A few hours on Sat and a few more on Sun and I was able to get the rear installed. I was able to get the impact gun to the old shackle on the pass side and it spun right off. Dr. side was a bit different. There isnt enough overhead room to get the gun in there so I had to resort to a grinder and cut that side out. Still not too big a deal. Once all was in I tried to hook up my drop links and found them to be about an inch too short. A side trip to the garage and take a look at my 77 confirmed I had the sway bar in upside down :shock: Fortunately its pretty easy to pull off. Now everything is new underneath :grin: :grin:
Last big thing is the gas tank. Hoping by this time next week that will be finished as well.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51352936124_284bb60a5a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2meTdNq)2021-08-02_07-06-59 (https://flic.kr/p/2meTdNq) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
These are some of the old bushings I removed. As far as Im concerned anyone getting a trans am should at least check to see if theres have been replaced. My guess is that they havent been. I would hate to drive a car around on stuff that looks like this!
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Great stuff
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That rear diff turned out fantastic Kerry!
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I guess I wasn’t paying attention. I see you got your differential installed, looks great. Is the car a roller now?
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Good update and great progress.
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Thanks Jack. Almost Larry, I need to get the fuel tank installed (maybe this weekend) that should finish the underside. At that point my plan is to start on the weather stripping/interior parts of the car. Patiently waiting on news about my motor :shock:
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Seems like you are moving right along and have plenty to keep you busy. Hopefully your engine will be done soon, although engines always seem to take longer. It’s maybe little consolation but at least you have another TA to drive.
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Just because Im bored, I dont think I put any before pics in.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51365167846_96981aab6f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mfXUSb)2021-08-08_12-58-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2mfXUSb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51364411302_2102342f26_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mfU2Yj)2021-08-08_12-59-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2mfU2Yj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Seeing the before pictures makes me appreciate the after that much more.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51371096365_0928a69b20_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mguid2)2021-08-10_03-57-02 (https://flic.kr/p/2mguid2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Gas tank installed!
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Not everyone cares or gets excited about the undercarriage of their car, but I do and can definitely appreciate everything you put into getting it done correctly. Looks great Kerry!
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Looking great Kerry! Glad you got that strap figured out.
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Dang! That looks amazing! Nice work. I wish mine was that clean!
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Thanks guys. Larry, a lot of the time as I am over analyzing I think to myself that I am the only one that will ever see what I am doing, and most likely the only that cares. Its good to hear from someone else. Makes a bit of overdoing it worthwhile.
As a response to Ryan, I was talking to him over the weekend when I was installing this thing.
It went pretty well but I couldnt get the strap tight enough for the bolt to catch. I found one in my stash 1/2" longer than supplied and it worked like a charm. Only had one though, so I had to wait for another day to get the other bolt.
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Funny, I had the same problem when installing my new fuel tank from Tanks. I called them up and asked if my new tank might have a slightly larger diameter. They said no, OEM straps should work. So I figured the shape of my new tank was slightest different. I initially installed my new tank with slightly longer bolts stretching the straps into position and then reinstalled the original bolts. I think if the straps were just a little more flexible it wouldn’t have been an issue.
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I put a very thin piece of rubber as the 2 isolation strips on top of the tank, as well as I cut a narrow piece and put it between each strap and the tank. I thought this may have had a little to do with it.
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I initially installed my new tank with slightly longer bolts stretching the straps into position and then reinstalled the original bolts. I think if the straps were just a little more flexible it wouldn’t have been an issue.
Similar experience here, although mostly because I went with a stainless steel tank and the stainless straps were way less flexible than the originals. Had a heck of a time getting the right length bolts and spacers.
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Looks great Kerry!
I get the attention to detail it looks awesome.
Careful though...That level of niceness can lead to OCD type behaviors.
Even though I don't think my TA's done to your level, and I don't consider myself the detail type, I found that I can't help but wipe down the underside of my car whenever I'm under there now. A couple weeks ago I had to replace the starter. I caught myself taking a bottle of cleaner and a rag with me under the car, along with the requisite tools for the actual job. :-P
Congrats on the progress. I can't wait to see your TATA!
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That's a nice looking backside you got there sir!!! :grin:
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Kerry,
I always wonder how you manage to get so much done while running a business but haven’t seen an update for a while. I hope your doing OK and still moving forward on your TATA.
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Hi Larry, Things are good, have been super busy with work, no garage time. Spent a couple of weekends looking for my new truck, now thats out of the way. Been doing the final clean out and move from my small shop to the big shop. Small shop is being converted into a gym/lifting room for my son. Now the big shop is a mess with crap piled every where. I am ready to start working on the int. of the car. I got some sound deadening mat and some spray, been sitting in the box in my office for a few weeks now! I have all the weather strip and would like to get that stuff done. I also sent my dash bezel to Randy C for a restor. Now that the weather is cool I may get some 'shop time' in. Slow but sure Im still rolling along.
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Great work.
I sent my Y88 dash bezel to RC and got it back in about 6 weeks. He does excellent work. I don't have any pics of the restore because they were on another computer that crashed. But you won't be disappointed with the end result.
Did you ever get your motor back?
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No news on the motor :( I really need to get on him about this thing. Squeaky wheel gets the grease! Randy did the bezel for my 77 and I was more than pleased with it. Familiar with his work and yes it is first rate.
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Temporary bad news on the motor. Hoping things will work out. Stay tuned...........
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EEEEGAD
There always seems to horror stories with engines. Everything is crossed in hopes it will turn out ok!!!
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No motor news yet.......
But, it seems like I have done a great job of lately collecting parts :shock: Figured no time better than now to get started. I bought a new windshield from Auto City Classics in Minn. Service was great and it came in less than a week. I had a chance to get the same part from the same vendor at Hershey a couple of weeks ago for $129. I had no way to cart it back to my truck parked miles away so I had to pass on the deal. With shipping to my house the same thing cost $299. Now Im looking for an installer.
Have started on the int. Got a package tray and headliner material from Ames. They sell the package tray as a replacement for 10th ann. cars, but its totally wrong!! The original is a crosshatched material (which I have re-ordered and its back ordered) so I will use the crappy one in the mean time if I need to.
I was thinking my headliner board was good, looking at it for all these years. But as typical it crumbled when I took it out. So I made a new one out of a piece of FRP panel. the panel is about an 1-1/4" too narrow so I 'glassed a piece on the back tab. I roughed it up and took the shine off with some 60gr on the orbital sander. Used 3m spray glue and all is good. I pulled my trim pieces out and remembered they all need replacing so another order off to Ames.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51611517856_18b2b644e1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCJw99)2021-10-20_03-51-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCJw99) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New windshield
I also ordered carpet and it has yet to arrive. I have been searching for the last couple of years for something that is correct for these cars with no luck, so I had to settle with what is now offered.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51611721848_8c0c60b271_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKyMf)2021-10-20_03-45-06 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKyMf) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51611725663_d1f08d1c98_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKzV2)2021-10-20_03-46-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKzV2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51611726438_44064ba9ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKA9o)2021-10-20_03-46-34 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKA9o) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51610681092_df85759b57_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCEepb)2021-10-20_03-46-47 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCEepb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51611741863_dc1e39caaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKEJk)2021-10-20_03-51-26 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCKEJk) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51612386765_f026867a7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCNYrk)2021-10-20_03-47-03 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCNYrk) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Also found these in my box of parts. Took the buffer wheel and cleaned them up a bit for re-install
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51612387320_88e3bac4f4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mCNYAU)2021-10-20_03-47-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2mCNYAU) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Nice! Mine are no that nice! If I ever need to change the T-top seal I may replace them.
Nice restoration there! You have home serious attention to detail here!
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I'll need to do my headliner board too!!!
I saved the headliner material years ago and tossed the crappy cardboard (or whatever they use) it was attached too!!
looks good!!
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Headliner turned out nice. Getting rid of that rotten board and replacing it with new will help contribute to that new car smell once your finished. For sure it won’t have an old car smell. The window trim cleaned up nicely. I imagine if it wasn’t stainless, there wouldn’t be much left.
Looking back at your completed differential makes me envious, that really turned out well too.
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Thanks. Yes one of the things I dont like about an old car is the smell. I may be strange as some people I believe to love it. All of the soft parts on the inside contribute to it. Like my 77, everything will be new or refurbished. I will (and did) buy new seat foam and all for those as well. New insulation, new fabric, new all. When my wife got into the 77 the first time she complained that it smelled like an old car!, WTHeck!!
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Nice work Kerry. That headliner turned out great!
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Looks great Kerry.
Can you share more specifics about the FPR board you used for headliner backing?
One of the projects on my winter to-do list is to try to make a set of shades for the T-Tops. I've heard use of 'FPR' for headliner boards, but don't know where to find it or what specs (thickness or whatever) to look for. T-Top shades aren't high on my list, but I'd like to have them as an option for Summer road trips where we might be on the interstate for long periods.
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The FRP is Fibreglass Reinforced Panel. You can get it at lowes or HD. Usually in the same area as paneling. Its typically used in lower end commercial kitchens, I have seen it line bathroom walls in gas stations and such and have even seen a guy that did his basement with it. Its only about an 1/8" thick, only comes one thickness as far as I know or at least what is on the shelf. It has a shiny pebble texture on the finish side and a dull smooth surface on the back. I glued the headliner to the shiny side after I took 60gr and knocked the shine and some of the pebble off. Cuts easily with a vibrating tool. Tin snips will do the trick, razor knife with a lot of work, power saw etc. The sheet I just bought was close to $40.
The stuff is very flexible. I used the same on my 77 and its holding up fine.
Funny you mention the shades. I still have the scraps of black material from my 77 that I was planning on making shades with. Had the same thought when I just did this one. Maybe I will go ahead and get the job done now that you have brought it up, LOL.
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Placed my order yesterday for more parts. Again, hurry up and wait. With my experience with Ames they should be on my step wed or thurs next week.
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I was one page behind... Looking good as always, I like the headliner work.
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Great job on the headliner. I ordered one pre-made, but it was short in the front left corner.
I am going to break down and order new carpet as well. I was looking at Ames, where did you get it?
Your paint on the side panel looks good, that should come out nice when you get the stripes on.
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Yes, I ordered the carpet the from Ames, but they source it from ACC. I have looked through many suppliers over the last 2 years trying to locate the correct weave but had no luck. At the time I ordered they said it comes direct from their vendor (ACC) and should be to me in a week. 3 weeks on I am still waiting.
I found my t top trim and it was typically dryrotted and dusty. So I figured on ordering new. I restored the U hoop trim awhile ago and now that its installed I am not happy with it. Its ok, just not perfect. So I ordered all new trim from Ames as well as the dome light housing. Supposed to be here tomorrow. Digging through my stash I found a pile of t top trim that came with the extra parts that was actually pretty decent. I suppose I will sell that stuff.
I inquired at Ames about door panels and they said 6 - 8 months!! I think I have found a pair but I just had a couple of big expenses, one daily driver car related and then the pressure tank on my well had to be replaced. So I will have to wait another week or so before I will place the order. Hopefully the place does have them in stock.
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In regard to the sun shades.... YoFab (yofab.com) makes some very nice shades for the second gen cars with the Fisher tops. I have used them for several years and love them. They allow the A/C to work as it should on the really hot, sunny says.
Dale Shelton (cup holders for the purest on Facebook) also has sunshades for 2nd gen Fisher top cars. His appear to be quite similar to those from yofab.
Post up if you find correct carpet for the 10th. I've been looking for years. Attached is a label removed for an original carpet s
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Also, here is a picture of the t-top shades
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Those shades look nice, I will have to look into them. Thanks for the carpet info. I have put it on file. I will continue my search. 1 fellow told me that he got carpet by the yard that was for a caddy of the same period. I tried a couple of caddy restorers, they were very helpful but alas no carpet.
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New trim parts came in today. All of the stuff looks nice, but I will have to dye it. Will start on that this evening. I also ordered all new parts for the dome light, connectors, nuts, housing etc. But somehow I forgot to order the stupid $15 lense. I will have to put that on the to do list.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51629965512_d3570c7c71_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mEn4Zb)2021-10-26_11-46-00 (https://flic.kr/p/2mEn4Zb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51631011773_9fbcfe7fdd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mEsr1a)2021-10-26_11-46-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2mEsr1a) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51631012088_6a5f8191a9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mEsr6A)2021-10-26_11-46-36 (https://flic.kr/p/2mEsr6A) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
A few parts ready to install. I thought I had lost one of the wire covers, but did manage to find it in my mess. I could only come up with one rear panel, but might have one in the works. Will report on that later. Getting real close to putting all of this stuff together now.
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I forgot to add, I placed an order for a pair of legendary door panels :shock: OUCH! Got them from NPD, only vendor that had a pair. I called Legendary and they had none in stock, said they may be able to get to them in June. I started to restore mine, and they were coming out nice. I was gonna have to have the carpet redone on the bottom anyway. Originally I was just planning on making this a decent driver car, but the deeper I get the more I seek for the best I can. I knew I would not be happy with the refurb panels.
Seat covers, well thats a different story!
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Since I still have the original carpet in the car, I removed the carpet from my original door pads and used it on the Legendary door pads. I had to have the carpet on the doors match the floor!
I also used Legendary seat covers and ACI foam buns. It was all expensive, and took a long time to get, but well worth it.
Taking the sunshades one step farther, Screaming Chicken Design (find them on Facebook) can make you a really nice two compartment bag to protect the sunshades when not in use. Similar to the t-top bags.
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Make sure you ratchet up the e-brake before bleeding the system.
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Thanks Scarebird, will make a note of that.
Another10th, one thing that bothers me when I see a resto is the carpet, and the bottom of the door panels. I have a used carpet I bought from someone here a number of years ago. Forgot whom that was, sorry. I had even considered doing what you did. I thought about contacting Legendary and seeing if I sent them the carpet they could use that instead of new. But with their lead times out 8 months now I dont want to wait. I still have that in the back of my mind though. I have been searching for used carpets as well and considered piecing together to make a good one. Again no luck with that either.
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Roadking77,
I agree about seeing the low pile carpet in a restored 10th. And as I said before, it bothers me to see low carpet on the door pads, and the correct carpet on the floor. The carpet on the doors was swapped out by my upholsterer. The only hard part (he said) was retaining the map pocket.
My original carpet is not too bad. Most of the wear is near the left kick panel, on top of the e-brake cable, and against the transmission tunnel, near the accelerator pedal.
I'm not sure that I could piece a set together. I could never keep the grain going the same direction on each piece!
That carpet was reproduced a number of years ago by Trim Parts. It was better than what was available previously, but still not quite right. It seems that the availability of that carpet has long since dried up. There have been discussions about it on this forum before.
Good luck, and post up if you find anything!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51646254257_730c985e4e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mFNy4B)2021-11-01_11-51-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2mFNy4B) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Door panels got here friday. They are really nice, and should be :shock: I checked back on the sight just out of curiosity and now they show 0 in stock. I am pretty sure these were the last pair in the country. Lucked out this time around. Got all of my t top trim dyed and ready to install. I am at my limit with flickr if they let me download any more pics I will post.
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Glad you lucked out Kerry! You know there is some guy that's two weeks behind your schedule cursing right now because of the zero inventory haha. :P
As for Flickr, I hit my limit and just opted to pay the $49.99 per year. I get a lot value for that money by posting up my pictures. I do it once a year and otherwise don't think about it.
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Kerry,
Glad you were able to get your hands on a set of the coveted door panels. I noticed they did the cutout for the inside door release but not the power door lock switch. I thought every TATA came loaded with most the options, but maybe not power door locks. I have seen many factory cars where the PD switch looks crooked. So maybe legendary did you a favor by allowing you to make sure the cutout is done correctly.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51646601612_c317777396_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mFQkju)2021-11-01_02-23-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2mFQkju) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51647434046_fd2e16a100_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mFUALN)2021-11-01_02-23-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2mFUALN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
On a whim I got my windshield installed today. I asked the guy that does my glass work for an install price. He had to add in travel time as he is about 45 min away, the price was over $400. I thought that was too much. Then thought, maybe I can do it myself. He gave me the name of a fellow that is much closer that he sends work to occasionally. I called him, he doesnt do auto stuff but gave me another number. SO, I called this guy, he said $135 and could do it today. Just by chance I am home today so things worked out. Only down side he said he could have the same piece of glass delivered to his shop next day for as low as $85! I over paid a bit, but what the heck. Its done now.
Larry, I know what you mean by the cut outs. When I did my 77 one of the most nerve wracking thing to do was to cut the door panels. Not looking forward to it this time around. I will add these are Legendary assembled, which are a bit nicer than the PUI. Not that it makes that much difference because you cant get those either. I think I did see a pair of Legendary un assembled some place but cant remember off hand whom it was. Now if I can track down my missing carpet I will be in business.
Ryan, I get the pop up message about upgrading to pro. I dont have a problem paying the price, but I am old fashioned. Im not keen on giving my cc info on the phone. I suppose its just as safe as the computer though.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51647484056_9a65bc4cce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mFURD3)2021-11-01_02-45-20 (https://flic.kr/p/2mFURD3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Trim all painted and ready to go.
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I forgot to add, I placed an order for a pair of legendary door panels :shock: OUCH! Got them from NPD, only vendor that had a pair. I called Legendary and they had none in stock, said they may be able to get to them in June. I started to restore mine, and they were coming out nice. I was gonna have to have the carpet redone on the bottom anyway. Originally I was just planning on making this a decent driver car, but the deeper I get the more I seek for the best I can. I knew I would not be happy with the refurb panels.
Seat covers, well thats a different story!
Soooo seat covers, What is your plan on those?
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Good Question?
Current plan is to have something custom made by a local shop, IF as Bob Barker would say "the price is right".
Second option would be to get a deluxe int in silver (non TATA) as per you question in another thread.
Third option would be to get a deluxe int in another colour.
Last on the list is correct 10th seats. This may be counter intuitive considering my build, but I cant stand the silver seats in the TATA. When these cars came out I thought they were the coolest until you looked inside. To me they look cheap, quite the opposite though! Before I spend a couple of grand on the correct int. I will pay to have something custom to my liking. I will worry about correctness IF and when I decide to sell.
At this time it may be awhile before I get to the seats. My car budget is just about drained at the time being. And I still have my motor to deal with. If nothing else I have a set of black hobnail that are in ok condition I can use as a last resort.
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Nothing wrong with running incorrect seats Kerry. Heck, look at my car. I drove around for 3 years with the original white seats in a car with all black interior! I was surprised that not one person at a car show mentioned it either.
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Sorry if I missed it Kerry but what are the correct colors and products you are using to paint the seat backs, interior panels, etc?
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At one time I knew the numbers off the top of my head, but I am a couple of years older :shock: I will get a quick look and post, just check back here, same bat time same bat channel.
On the brighter side I did get my carpet in, ACC, colour looks good but weave is nowhere even close. BUT, that much was expected. Will have to live with it until something better comes along. I also tried to put the window trim on the front. That is a major PIA. I had one side clipped in nice and tight, went across the top, clipped the pass side in and the dr side popped off :sad: I didnt have my glasses and could barely see what I was doing, I was also just passing through and thought it would be a quick simple job to look like I got something done. WRONG. Need to go back and attack with a better attitude and some car time. Been super busy with work and no spare time. This time every week I say to myself, "I am going to get car work done this weekend".
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That trim is a PITA. My palms were bruised for a week after I installed mine new metal clips or reshaped originals help.
Again, so sorry I haven't been able to get those panels cleaned up for you yet. I did find a box at work I think will work though. Maybe this weekend I get out there. We don't have many more days until it really cold here and I can't get stuff done outside (at least comfortably) so the wife has had me on projects in my free time....
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I hear ya Luke. I know you didnt completely forget me, I didnt want to bother you. No big rush. Every friday I will think of what I can get done on Saturday. Then friday night or saturday morning my wife will say 'we need to run to .......... or I want to get ..........done today! Before I know, its monday morning again. I keep telling her that my weekends keep getting consumed with her hobbies. One of them we are all going to the shop and work on my car! lol. But you know how that works out :grin:
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I got the front and back window trim on the other day. With the help of my glasses so I could see what I was doing it went ok. I put a small strip of tape at each clip so I knew where to beat :???: Then when I had one side set, I taped it in place so it would not pop back off. I then tapped at each clip with a rubber mallet. They snapped on pretty good. I think the problem may be the windshield is set a fraction too high. Everything clipped down tight but when I did the back window which is original to the car the trim sits just a bit lower.
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Interior trim colours for the light gray which is everything but the dash and kick panels, SEM 15183(warm gray). The dash and kick panels which are a bit darker is SEM 15393(medium gray). I use SEM 13023 low lustre clear top coat.
I have checked these colours against the backside of original parts that were not subject to fading as much and they are just about perfect for a match. There may be other brands but I have had good luck with SEM.
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Catching up:
1. Those Legendary door panels look really good!
2. Your painted/dyed trim parts came out nice.
3. What I didn't like about the 10th seats is they were hard leather and slippery. I have the cloth now with the 300ZX seats and it is very comfortable, but I often wondered if there was a gray/silver velour cloth from another Firebird that would work with the original seats. Go with what you like, it doesn't have to be original.
4. I got the new windshield a few years ago and it really makes the car feel newer over the old pitted one.
Congrats on your progress.
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Haven't checked in here in a while...Looks like things are moving right along huh?
I think I'm the one who brought up the T-Top shades, so thanks to everyone for the input on materials and sources. In my 'Custom' red '81 interior, I found the closest match to the original headliner color, pattern, and appearance was a material listed as being for a Fox-body Mustang. I'm going to look into the sources you guys noted are making shades, but ultimately I'll need to recover them or make my own in order for them to match.
Congrats on finding the door panels in stock. They look awesome! Not sure why it came up earlier, but if someone was asking about Legendary door panels assembled vs. unassembled...I used Legendary's unassembled panels in my car ('81 Turbo). So, if anyone has any questions...Hit me up.
FWIW, I agree with everyone else regarding the original silver interiors in the TATA's. I'm not a huge fan, except (if I remember correctly) they had a bird embroidered in the middle of the rear seats. Which I did like. I WAS a huge fan of the red instrument panel lighting though. I remember the first time I saw one lit up. I was hanging outside a 7th grade school dance when some guy pulled up in a TATA. Already a TA fan, I walked over to check it out. For some reason, the red lights on the dash really stuck in my little pubescent head. It's still my favorite look today. When it came time to have my '81 gauges refurb'd I had AutoInstruments reproduce the TATA illumination. (The 'cups' behind the gauges are a florescent pink instead of light blue)
Anyway...The interior is where you're spending your time so I'm all for customizing it to your liking.
Congrats on the progress! Looks great!
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I posted in the lobby but will post here as well. Spoke with my motor guy the other day. The machine shop is finishing things up now. He should have the parts back within a week. At which time he said it would not take more than a few weeks to finish it up. I dropped it off on Jan 4 or 5. Will see if he can get it done before its been a year.
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Hey Kerry,
I know you have been busy running your business and outdoor temps have been less than ideal for working in your shop. I hope you are well and know you will give us some updates once you have time to devote to your TATA.
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Hi Larry, yes the T/A has been neglected for far too long. We have been extremely busy with work which is good. I had some furniture in the shop that needed refinished (I picked it up in July and by coincidence to this thread we are delivering it back today!) and once I started that I covered the car up pretty tight to keep overspray off. So it has been tucked away in bed for the last couple of months. My engine builder called yesterday and left a message. I have not listened to it yet but will within the next hour or so. Hope its good news.
I have been doing some upgrades to the shop making it a bit more woodworker friendly and getting some more electric added. I am going to pull the radiant heater out of my car garage and put in the shop. It was never hooked up so its just ceiling art at this point. I may as well put it to good use.
I have amassed quite a few parts in fact I keep finding stuff I forgot I ordered. I want to get back to work on the car asap. Now that I have the shop cleared out a bit, and football season is over I may start to get some work done. I wanted to have it on the road by early fall last year, I am going to shoot for late summer this time around.
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Have not worked on the car for a long time, but the engine builder is looking for some parts and wanted to know what colour to paint? Supposed to have the rotating assembly done at this point :smile: , Although I have not seen it.
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That's good news Kerry! Having the engine complete will be a huge motivator.
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Nice but no reds okay Kerry :lol:
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That is great news!
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Yay for engines! That's good to hear, for sure.
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13 months and counting :shock: BUT, it was not too long ago that I thought this thing was lost forever. Its nice to know its back in his shop and going together. I gave it to him in pieces, which was the way it came to me. So now I am getting calls every morning of yet another part that he needs. I am sure he is frustrated not having everything there at one time, and I feel bad about it but I suppose its just holding me up in the long run. Im not sure which shop its at (he has 3) I have been passing one on a daily basis. I would like to get a pic.
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Good news on your engine, I think the saying is nothing good ever comes easy. Not sure what pieces you are missing, fortunately everything is available new or used. Looking forward to pictures.
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Mostly hardware stuff, just got a call and it was kinda short, but I think he said the intake was bad. So add another to the parts needed list :(
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Intake cracked in 2 places. So I ordered a performer from edelbrock. I looked into them awhile ago and from what I found the stock Pontiac performed just as well with the biggest advantage of aftermarket being the weight savings. I had my mind made up I wanted to stick with the stock piece. Oh well, the best laid plans.......... Ordered from Summit, the part I need has a ship date of maybe Feb 23. So the delays begin.
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Kerry, you should be receiving a present for the 10th on Tuesday.
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:grin: :grin:
Presents are nice!
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So, I had to order a few more parts, some fasteners, internal parts etc. Manifold is still being delayed. The new ship date is the end of March. I ordered new rocker covers from summit. They are supposed to be 'exact' replacements. Back ordered, big surprise there, not. No estimate on shipping then yesterday morning when I got up there was a package on the stoop, valve covers ( I think). The box is still sitting on the pile of boxes in my office unopened. Hope to drop them off to the shop today. I have been told the motor is almost finished and this last order of parts may button things up. I am not sure what to expect though. When he did the 400 for my 77 it was a complete job installed. I am planning on installing this one in the 79. Not sure what his idea of a 'finished' motor is going to be. I am assuming running and he hinted that he wanted to put it on the dyno before he let it go so I figure we are on the same page.
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Hang in there Kerry, the finish line is in sight!
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Kerry,
Looking forward to pictures once you have picked up your engine. Even though you have done this many times I am sure you're getting excited. It seems like it always takes longer than anticipated.
About 30 years ago a good friend added a larger kitchen and great room to his house. We were busy with our kids and jobs, so we did not get together often. As we are walking through his house looking at the progress, he said I am having a BBQ in the summer to celebrate the completion and your invited. Several years go by an I never hear back from him, other than annual Christmas cards. I said to my wife I wonder why he didn't invite us. One day we were in his neighborhood and stopped by to say hello. His project was 90% done but still not complete. I said I thought maybe you were mad at me or just forgot to invite me for the BBQ. His answer was " I said a BBQ in the summer, I just didn't say what year"!
He finally had the BBQ about 15 years after he started to project when his oldest son graduated high school. In his defense he ran his own business and often worked seven days a week. Having said that I am amazed when people with busy lives find time to take on huge projects like a total restoration and find time to get them done.
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That sounds about like my pace around the house Larry. Well not quite that bad or I would have been divorced long ago. My wife drives me hard to get things done. Spring has started to be sprung so looks like theres going to be plenty of outside work to get caught up on.
For the motor, I did get a text today from summit that my order has shipped. The only thing I know of that is currently ordered is my intake. That would be good to get.
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That's what you say and then some random part shows up that you forgot you even ordered.... at least that's how it's been for me.... The Amazon van has been here every day.
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Luke, I have not forgot about you :grin:,lol. The big box sits in front of my desk and I stare at it every day. I have purposely not moved it yet until remittance is made. Im afraid if it goes to the shop it will be forgotten.
As far as packages, I am usually pretty good about what I order, my problem is that I tend to order stuff that I know I need and that is within my budget at the time. So this means I may order an interior piece years before I need it. I End up with stuff scattered every where and me not knowing what I do and dont have. I have ordered multiples more than a couple of times. Every 6 months or so I vow to get better organized with my resto but something always comes up. My business is well organized and I can tell someone down to what kind of screws are in what box in my shop, but car parts...... thats another story.
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Even though the Performer gets bashed regularly over on PY, I ordered one for pairing with my Sniper and I have been quite happy with it. The RPM version would not match my basically stock engine and my driving habits. See what you think.
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Kerry, I'm not worried nor am I scraping pennies.
I too have duplicated and sometimes quadruplicated orders. My door handles were one that I must have ordered them twice like 10 years ago or more when I first was working on my car and then did it again once I had the paint finished. Good thing though as most of them turned out to be junk and I ended up with only one set I could use.
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Bob, I have a performer on my 77 and that motor runs just fine. I dont mind using one, but it would have been cheaper to use the original and for this car I was trying to keep it aesthetically stock. Count down is on, its supposed to be on my stoop today.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51955249154_5ba11ea90f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2na7etQ)2022-03-22_04-17-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2na7etQ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51955014283_a737928cc6_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2na62Ek)2022-03-22_04-18-09 (https://flic.kr/p/2na62Ek) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Got a welcome package in the mail yesterday. Manifold finally arrived. I ordered it sometime early feb and it has been on backorder. I forget the model no. offhand but this one is supposed to be compatible with the stock shaker height. Also got the new valve covers in one day last week. Both orders came from Summit. The covers were very pricy compared to some others but are supposed to be 'restoration correct'. They do look pretty nice from what I can tell. Both were dropped off to the builder this morning. I have been told he is close to finishing the motor and desperately needed these parts. Fingers crossed!
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Kerry,
Great eye candy, you're getting close to having an engine! Are you going to paint the intake manifold or leave it natural aluminum?
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Shiny parts :-D Glad the intake finally arrived. That's the same one I run on my '69.
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I will most likely paint it. Its too pretty at this point to do so though :shock: I prefer a stock look to my cars and not much about the bling. One of the reason trans ams are so nice, NO CHROME!
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pieces and parts AWSOME! One step closer to done.
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I will most likely paint it. Its too pretty at this point to do so though :shock: I prefer a stock look to my cars and not much about the bling. One of the reason trans ams are so nice, NO CHROME!
I agree but do like what little chrome the earlier 2nd gens have.
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They don't need chrome with all the Tupperware and bird on the hood. They already scream, "look at me". :grin:
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One of the things I've missed having 'finished' my car is the relatively frequent parts unboxing.
Those'll look nice framing the shaker!
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I like getting boxes and opening them, makes everyday like Christmas, I just dont like the credit card statement at the end of the month :shock: :shock:
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That is exciting news all around. Been quite the wait for that engine to be done!!
New parts are always fun!
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I would make a great doctor, I have plenty of patience!
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Update of no news :sad: :sad:
I look back on this thread for 2 reasons, one so I dont slip back a page and B so I can see the timeline. I called my engine builder the other day to see if he was making any progress. "I havent had time to turn around lately so no" was his answer. Again another disappointment. I started the internal debate in my head again about picking up the parts and finishing it myself. I figure if the rotating assembly is done that should be the hard part, right :???: BUT, I am so busy that IF I got it today, it will be at least August before I would have any time to even think about working on it. SO, the realist in me says, let it stay where it is for now and MAYBE he will get to it before now and August!
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Kerry,
This has to be more than a little disappointing for you. I somehow got the impression the engine was almost done. It’s possible your builder senses your lack of urgency and moved it down on his list of priorities. If your engine was sitting in your shop and ready to be installed, you might be spending more time on your TATA. On the other hand since you are self employed being busy is a good thing. But all work and no play is not healthy either. I hope you can still find time to ride one of your motorcycles or take out your 77.
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Yea, I am at the point in my life that I try to take things a bit easier. I stopped working 6 days a week a few years ago. Saturday and Sunday are my time, but I do admit that since last winter I have been spending extra time in the shop doing work stuff on my time off. I have had the 77 out for the last 5 weeks going to shows and am just about burnt out at this point. I did finally get my bike out a couple of weeks ago when we had a beautiful Sunday afternoon.
It would be nice to have the 79 finished so I can punish myself with the next project but its also nice to have another car to enjoy whilst waiting.
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Hard to stay motivated when things stall out, especially when your busy.
It'll work out one way or the other!
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Yes, when mine stalls a bit, I look at the larger perspective: This is a hobby! The main point is to have fun with it, whether you like doing the work or cruising around in the result.
I am back at it this year, but as usual there are a lot other things that need attention like the house. Still, I am going to keep finding time to work on the TA.
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I dont usually have a problem with motivation, just time. I am completely motivated about 24 hrs a day :grin: The good news with this car languishing in the barn for so long is that I have the 77 I can take out whenever I want and enjoy the ride. The frustrating part with the 79 is that it is SO CLOSE to being finished and the situation is out of my control temporarily. That is one of the reasons why I prefer to do all of my own work, so I have no dependance on anyone but myself. The other thing is I have another project lined up that I am excited to get started on, but need to get this one done first.
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The other thing is I have another project lined up that I am excited to get started on, but need to get this one done first.
Like those girls in high school ( a long time ago). You're just a "Tease!"
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Kerry,
Sorry to hear of the continuing delays in your engine rebuild.
I get your comments about the getting sidetracked and burnout I guess you can call it.
I have to get back to my TA project and visiting here for the first time in a long while is making me think I just have to get to it.
I think I started to rebuild my thread and get was a second crash maybe?
I rebuild it again and hopefully start the process to finish it up. I got a bit down about it but hearing about how guys here are persevering got me a bit motivated to get going again.
JT
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Keep moving forward JT, its all we can do.
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No news on the motor :sad: Honestly have not had the desire to call the guy. He is big into drag racing and now is his busy season.
BUT, after several years on the road, and running great! I finally glued the weather strip in the trunk channel on my 77 TA. The glue has been sitting on my desk for the last 2 months. I suppose all of the stars aligned yesterday, LOL.
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Sometimes just doing a small job like that can motivate you in the car area. It is also nice to have a TA to drive. I have been driving mine and it has been fun except when filling up for gas!
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That's funny, I haven't glued mine either....
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I wanted to wait until it was a definite and not more speculation, but since this area is slow and its been awhile since I have had a post on this thread,
I got in touch with my engine builder on Monday. I have been wanting to for some time but have been way too busy. I very politely asked if he had intentions of finishing my motor and would it be done soon, if not let me know and I would pick up the parts (19 months and counting). His reply was an apology, and that 'a needed part came in last Friday, now he can get things buttoned up'. Said he should be finished in a couple of weeks.
Its in writing here, so that makes it official :grin:
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Sounds like The Money Pit movie..."Two weeks".
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It sounds like your engine build has been low on his priority list. Time will tell if he is sincere or not. I and many others at TAC are pulling for you Kerry. 🤞
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Almost "2"! years for a rebuild? Insane. If he doesn't finish in a week or 2, let me know. I'll have my friend "Guido Knuckles" pay him a visit.
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One week down!
His reply was an apology, and that 'a needed part came in last Friday, now he can get things buttoned up'. Said he should be finished in a couple of weeks.
Its in writing here, so that makes it official :grin:
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Trust me Mike, I am counting :shock:
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And the count has passed. What's the excuse for the engine now? Or have you got it?
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No engine yet :shock: I have been working out of town, busier than ever and little time to do much. I have kind of been giving him the benefit of the doubt, but I know the real answer will be something like 'its getting close' or 'will be finished any day now'. I should have some free time this afternoon may give him a call. I am sure the reality is that he either hasnt touched it yet or just started on it last month when I brough the subject up.
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Bummer!
Lots of us share your frustration with this. I guess it’s a good thing you are busy with work.
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OK, so I reached out today. The latest is that its almost finished but he is waiting on push rods. 'The last 2 sets came in wrong' and he is waiting on the correct parts at this point.
Yes, Larry, as much as I want to get this project back on track realistically I have zero time right now to do any work on it. A blessing and a curse, LOL.
I did get new visors for my 77 installed :grin: One of the few things that had been left unfinished.
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Agree... but you'll find the time if you have the engine.
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Maybe you'll have the motor as an early Christmas present.
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At this point I will be glad to have it AS a Christmas present :shock:
I cant remember the time line now but it was Aug or Sept, when he told me a couple of weeks. I thought, OH Crap, I better get manifolds ordered. So I called Ram Air and ordered a set. They said it would be Oct before they were ready to ship. At the time that sounded like an eternity!! I need to start checking back with them now :???:
Yes, Jack you are correct. If I had the motor ready to install I def. could squeeze in a few hours a week to make things happen.
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Kerry, seems like you were hoping to have your engine done by last Christmas. This time it sounds like it could happen.
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I've been lurking and seeing your motor woes over the past year.
I hate to see it for you Kerry, but hopefully it all turns out OK.
JT
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Maybe Christmas 2023!
I have set my sites back to next summer though, that is hoping my motor shows up within the next 4 or 5 months!! There really isnt that much to do other than getting the motor installed and final hookups. I know with myself doing that it will take several months though. I guess I should name this car COVID! The timeline is about the same as my son said when that dreaded flu came out. March of 2020 when it really started to hit us stateside I made a comment to my son that I thought by the fall (2020) it would be behind us. He laughed and said if its gone by 2023 we will be lucky! I think he was right on that one.
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I had a face to face with the builder on Friday. Same story nothing new to tell. He is still waiting on push rods. He did 'assure' me that once they come in he can be finished in a couple of days. I am planning on doing the install myself so once it does get back it may take me all winter to get things put together. Dale did say he would be more than happy to stop by on a weekend or evening and help me with the install. I was hoping Minn. Bob may loan me one of his motors in the meantime :grin:
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Ha Ha! I have one and spare and I am keeping them.
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Came here to see some good news but I guess some (dare I say good news) is better than no news.
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Not much going on Jack. I was really hoping to have this car out of the shop by winter so I can get a start on my next project, but things didnt work out. I talked to the motor guy a month or so ago and am still waiting. Between the vacation I just took and my tax bill it was a bit of a blessing the motor wasnt ready last month!, LOL.
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Uneventful update to keep me on the front page. I had a long conversation with the builder a week and half ago. I simply asked him to be upfront and honest with me. If he has time to finish the motor in the VERY near future and if not I will gather the pieces and look elsewhere. As I have said before this is kinda cutting my nose off to spite my face being I know the guys work and it is fantastic. But enough is enough. For the past couple of months he was waiting on push rods. He got a couple of sets in that were wrong, so I was told. After our conversation he said he had the motor together and needed the carb (which because of it being worth its weight in gold has been on my workbench for the last 2 years), distributor and water pump. I told him to pick up the dizzy, and I ordered a water pump from Summit. It was supposed to be here on Sat, last tracking said package is delayed. I also ordered the plate and mounting hardware, gaskets from Ames and have yet to get any of that. I get most of my stuff from Ames and it usually takes 4 or 5 days, but this time is a bit longer. I guess its holiday traffic. So, with all that said I am hoping my next post will have pics of a freshly rebuilt motor :grin:
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Great update! I hope you get your Christmas wish!
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This is so much like my odyssey except mine has been going on since I think 1999. But like you I am seeing the light!
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Sounds promising hopefully all goes well.
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Yikes, 23 years is even too much for me, LOL.
All the parts came in yesterday, so off to the shop this morning :-?
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Kerry, it seems like you have been waiting for you engine almost as long as I have been a member of TAC. It sounds like it’s really close to being done. Many of us are hoping you get your Christmas miracle! Or close to it.
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I know I said next post would have a pic :sad:, but I dropped off what I hope were the last of the missing parts yesterday. I was able to talk to the builder as he was on site (he has 3 busy shops and its hard to pin him down to one place). He said everything was together and went on to tell me how happy he was with the final result, being my block was nothing but rust when he started. Being this weekend is Christmas, I asked him if he though he would have it done within the next month. He ASSURED me it was all but finished and ready to roll. One thing I dropped off was the carb, and he said that is the weak point right now. He needs to clean and rebuild that. Also asked if I had ex. manifolds :shock: :shock:, he needs them in place to run the motor on the dyno :grin:
I might have a set of stock he can use, if not he thinks he has a set of headers for the time being.
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All sounds positive. I wish I was near you, I have a W72 carb that I got from tajoe all ready to go but never installed in my 71 that has the matching engine, I could have let you run it until yours was done.
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Whew, your a patient man Kerry. On the bright side, it is winter now. Get the car buttoned up and ready for the spring car scene! We also want video's, not just pics.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52582198666_f91e06ae4e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o7vvJb)2022-12-23_07-32-42 (https://flic.kr/p/2o7vvJb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
At least I got a picture on Christmas Eve! I am starting to get a bit excited now. Needs a colour correction but other than that I am happy. Cant wait to see and hear it running.
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Wow, It looks great. Now the fun begins. For me it’s very satisfying assembling shiny new parts.
Merry Christmas!
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That's a huge step forward, congrats Kerry.
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That's a picture worth framing.
What color correction?
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Wow, that looks nice. Can't wait til you get it back. Definitely worth the wait!
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To the best of my knowledge it should be a solid colour medium blue, not the metallic that he painted it. The worst part is I had already finished the oil pan and gave him the can of paint I used :? I will give him a call in the morning.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50703185291_fd8c89278c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kft5vR)2020-12-10_12-45-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2kft5vR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50702448828_55deb3dfdc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kfpiAd)2020-12-10_12-45-11 (https://flic.kr/p/2kfpiAd) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
This is what the pile of *&*(* looked like when I delivered a couple of years ago. All components that the car left the factory with. The block looked like it had been stored under water for quite a few years. My biggest fear was that it would not be serviceable. He said they had to go over it a few times but it all worked out in the end. Original intake was cracked so I had to go with an aluminum aftermarket.
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Wow! It does exist!! I was worried you were just getting lip service and the engine was scrapped or sold. Now I'm excited to see this project rolling!
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As you may have guessed I like the early year Pontiac engine color and would recommend to leave it alone.
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Kerry, I completely understand where you are coming from wanting to keep the car as original as possible. Having the correct engine color is part of that. Many cars get modified and finding one completely original is getting harder all the time. Since you left your builder a paint can with the correct color, he should have taken the hint!
My engine also came painted the classic Pontiac blue used on earlier cars. The builder did a nice job painting it and I liked the color, so I did not repaint it. But my new engine was incorrect for a 1980 TA anyway.
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Yay on an assembled engine. I know you have to be excited, heck- we all are!
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Congrats on getting the heart!
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I plan on showing in the AACA so correctness is very important. I have been trying to stay numbers right, and high quality parts along the way. I dropped off a minor part yesterday (pvc rubber) and told him about the colour. He was cool with it. He thought the light blue was an early Pontiac colour and that the metallic was for the newer cars. No biggie. My 77 has the original motor and there were no signs of it being messed with when I bought the car. It has a very early build date (sep 76) and the motor was originally the light metallic, same as he painted this one. He gave me a couple of small parts he is needing so I am hunting right now. I am pretty sure another call to Ames will solve the problem.
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The color you need is called corporate blue,which has no metallic.Pontiac had a metallic blue from 1966 thru 1972,and another metallic thru 1976.My 1969 GP SJ is painted the blue your engine is painted.
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Here is a snapshot from AMES catalog page on engine paint, as you mentioned a phone call is a good idea. I ordered my wheel paint from them and thought the color was accurate. AMES is pretty up front with their product descriptions.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52595225413_824eba2258_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o8Eh8g)IMG_1151 (https://flic.kr/p/2o8Eh8g) by Lawrence Alexander (https://www.flickr.com/photos/188552644@N06/), on Flickr
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I've had good luck with the Bill Hirsch line of paints.Used them for over 20 years.The years I listed are from his web site.You could call him at 800 828 2061 and ask him.Good luck.
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You know you're at the "finish line", when you're complaining about the color of your eng. It's definitely gunna be a good New Year. Can't wait to hear your dyno results. Good luck with it. Don't remember your mentioning your exhaust choices.
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I know, first world problems :grin:, I have RA resto manifolds on my 77 with a pypes exhaust. Was planning on doing the same. Only the 77 has duals and I spoke with the Pypes guy at Carlisle a couple of years ago and he said the transverse muffler actually resulted in a bit more HP, so in trying to keep 'original' at least looking I was planning on doing the transverse. I ordered from RA restorations in Aug, they gave me a tent. delivery of Oct, that has now turned to March! Parts Place had 'one pair left' on ebay, I called to confirm and they had ZERO, guy did not know why the ebay ad said what it did :???:
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I have the pypes transverse on my car and really like it but it is on an LS engine.
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Doing a bit of reading the other day I found information that says 1979 w72 (4 speed cars) had a dual muffler settup, not the transverse? I guess I will have to try and find some pics of low mileage tata's and see whats there :-?
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Congrats on getting your motor Kerry! That's excellent news!
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Kerry, I didn't want to open the whole exhaust system can of worms since you said you were installing RAM Air manifolds and they would not be correct for your car. I am ingnorant on the judging aspect, how closely do they scrutinize the exhaust system? Does it have to be exactly like OEM? In other words, do you need to have a catalytic converter? Can a single pipe be replaced with duals? When i was looking for exhaust on my car I stumbled upon Gardner, it looks like they do accurate reproductions, but would not work with RAM AIR exhaust manifolds.
https://www.gardnerexhaust.com/exhaust-systems/firebird/1979-firebird-trans-am-exhaust-system/
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The exhaust should be correct or some points will be deducted. One of the judging requirements though is that they cannot go inside the car, they can look into an open door though. So, using that logic I would assume they would have to crawl underneath to see the exhaust, with low clearance.............
Numbers matching on parts is not a requirement (as far as I know) as long as they are period correct. No.s matching again would only be a bonus. AACA is not as crazy as some judging such as in the Corvette world.
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Latest motor news, I was finally able to drop off the exhaust mani's to the shop (thanks again Larry :grin:), later that day I got a text that he was needing the fuel line from the pump to the carb. Promptly ordered from Ames, shipping says it will be here friday. Dale said he was trying to set up dyno time for next week! Sounds exciting, but I will believe it when it happens. When he told me the motor would be finished over the Christmas break my son laughed and said March. I need to start listening to him more seriously! In April 2020 he also said Covid wont be over until 2023, I thought he was full of soup then also.
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Kerry, great to see your car is still moving in the right direction.
There used to be a saying, “the olderI get, the smarter my parents get”. In your case I think it applies to your son as well.
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Maybe that will lite a fire under the owner of the car too. He should probably get a move on too.... :-D
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Kerry, not sure if you had it covered or not but if setting it up for dual muffler then keep an eye out for the offset bracket on the rear brake hose where it mounts on the diff to keep it an inch further away from the exhaust. The brake hard lines on the diff itself seemed to also be revised in location and had an extra retainer bracket off the diff cover. I don't know if this was specific to the dual mufflers but have only noticed it on those diffs. Of course, custom exhaust and location may not require either except for originality.
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Thanks Walli.. I will keep an eye out for that. Which reminds me I need to get an exhaust ordered :shock: The way things have been I can see it being out of stock for the next 6 months.
Luke, you are so right, there have been a lot of little things that could have/should have been finished by now.
Larry, I like that.
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Nice update Kerry! It would be great if he could get it on a dyno and have it drop in ready when you get it. That would make life a lot easier for you.
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Great update, this made me happy.
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No word if it hit the dyno last week, I suspect NOT. I sent a message on Monday for an update, yet to hear back. :sad: :sad:
I would say I am dissapointed but its far beyond that at this point.
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Well, how did the sayin use-ta go? "No news, is "good" news"? Not sure if that pertains to your situation. I believe you mentioned you saw the engine completed..."almost". So at least that's something. And I'm not sure where your local is, but here it's still winter, so you're not missing out on any cruising. Spring is quite a distance off. So you still have a little time.
And hopefully he'll give you a break on the dyno-testing part, or somewhere in the build. It's totally unacceptable for him to drag this out so long, W/O giving you a heads up in the beginning. In my business, if we don't deliver our engs. in a certain amount of time, we pay a penalty to our customers, for each day it's late. Not every customer, but delivery is expected in a realistic amount of time. So sorry for your situation, and I wouldn't be recommending him to anyone soon. (Unless he apologizes, and cuts you a break on it...somewhere) We can only hope, "the end is near".
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Tajoe, its technically winter but we really didnt have a winter this year. In fact its supposed to be in the high 60's over the weekend (and yet I havent had my 77 out :sad:). But yes, there is still some shop time this spring. Honestly I would like to show the car at Hershey in October so that is my new end date on this one. I am in somewhat regular contact with the builder as he owns the shop that maintains my dd's. I have had the carb on my workbench at home for the entire process just so I could keep a close eye on it. He asked for that a couple of weeks ago, then he needed the fuel line from the pump to the carb which I got and delivered a couple of weeks ago now. I was under the impression that he was just this part away from getting the motor running. Its kind of a weird dynamic and I know I am the sucker that all you guys think I am. I feel like an abused spouse. To meet with this guy face to face is a great experience. He is very personable and all around a good guy. I know the final product so I dont want to cut off my nose to spite my face, as the saying goes. I have even talked to him several times about how unhappy I am that it has taken so long. The one reason for my patience has been me having another car to enjoy, as well as I have been so busy the last couple of years I have had no time to work on it anyway. I am at a point now where I just want to put this project to bed.
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Amen
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To meet with this guy face to face is a great experience. He is very personable and all around a good guy. I know the final product so I dont want to cut off my nose to spite my face, as the saying goes. I have even talked to him several times about how unhappy I am that it has taken so long. The one reason for my patience has been me having another car to enjoy, as well as I have been so busy the last couple of years I have had no time to work on it anyway. I am at a point now where I just want to put this project to bed.
I understand that completely. My house painter started in mid-December. True, he had a lot of trim to paint first so that the contractor could install it. I bought it primed to help him out a little bit. He paints it on the sawhorses (he gets to stand up to work), contractor installs it. He starts to putty in the nail holes (now having to crawl around) and give it a second coat. Then Christmas, then his gf kid has ball games that he has to attend, then one thing after another. I called him Monday and said "what the heck?" You haven't showed up in two weeks and I want to move in sometime this year. He came out at 12:05 and ate his lunch, got his stuff out, stirred paint and started work- so I left. He texted me at 4:03 and said he had something he had to do Tuesday and Wednesday, but would return Thursday and stay until he was finished. Yesterday (Thursday) came and I was there doing dirtwork. Looked at the time- 9:10. I called him and told him to NOT show up here except to pick up his stuff. I have another painter I am meeting this weekend and showing him the house. He's been here before (he did the sheetrock) and I have faith in him. Sometimes you gotta just move on...
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Good for you Mike. there are times, you just gutta say, "enuff is enuff".
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Thats a shame Mike, I have had a couple of jobs go off the rails slightly because of material shortages, but thankfully to date the customers have been patient and understanding, paint was even hard to get a year ago, but that doesnt sound like the problems you are dealing with. Hopefully the new guy will take care of things quickly.
Dale sent me a text this past friday, saying he has dyno time for this week set up! I told him to send me a video. IF it happens and I know how to post, I will put it up.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52730063095_0eb4f9eaa4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okzmET)2023-03-06_08-29-46 (https://flic.kr/p/2okzmET) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
One part that has been unfinished is the hood. I have been going back and forth with this one. It has a bad edge, I was gonna ditch it for new, then figured I have nothing but time so a repair is in order. The hood on my black car was in much worse shape.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52729905079_05f6a0524e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okyxGt)2023-03-06_08-30-29 (https://flic.kr/p/2okyxGt) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I set 6 points and like any good carpenter got out my laser to see if there was any twist. Lo and behold everything was in plane, so I made a couple of cardboard templates and checked the sides, both were consistent then the front.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52729653976_88371ee44a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okxg47)2023-03-06_08-30-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2okxg47) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52729129342_fc15b4b619_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okuz6G)2023-03-06_08-30-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2okuz6G) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52729654616_774c62a719_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2okxgf9)2023-03-06_08-30-45 (https://flic.kr/p/2okxgf9) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
You can see the dr. side has a pretty bad bump on the front edge. I was trying to figure out to fix it easily, the best I could come up with was to remove the inner bracing along the front edge, straighten then weld the brace back in. I also saw at this point that the 'flat' part beside the shaker cuttout has a bad push-in bend as well. Along with some rust along the inner folded seams that will need addressed I made the executive decision to find a better starting point. This one will be relegated to wall art.
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What a shame. I was looking forward to seeing you repair this one.
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Exciting news Kerry. Look forward to seeing the engine dyno video.
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For the hood, I would try hammering it down. Just put some wooden blocks on the bottom for support on either side of the bump and hit it from the top. Any localized metal damage could easily be fixed with filler. I'll bet that bump would come down with a little persuasion.
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I thought about beating on it, but I'm not completely sure the brace on the underside is not bent a bit also. The warp at the shaker scoop area is a bit more of a concern, plus there is one spot with a hole rusted through. All could be fixed and if this was for a 1932 Packard and replacements werent available I would def. be doing some pounding. I dont want to spend money just because, but I think it may be worthwhile this time around. I do have a pretty decent original paint TATA that was given to me that I could use, but honestly I think it looks cool with the original wear and plan on using it as wall art also. Plus Im using it for dimensions for painting. I guess I should focus more on getting my car on the road than interior decorating.
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All could be fixed and if this was for a 1932 Packard and replacements werent available I would def. be doing some pounding.
Kerry, in another 20-40 years that wall art hood just might be the best hood around and worth some money.
About 45 years ago a very good friend of mine owned a body shop. it's a long story, but his body repair knowledge was limited at the time. He had several body men that came from Poland, they could speak little English but were real craftsman. My first experience was watching one of them on a Saturday. He took a late model Datsun that looked to be close to a total wreck and using a frame jack, hammer and dolly pulled out the entire rear end. My friend said at that time in Poland replacement parts were hard to come by, and they could repair anything. I wished I would have taken pictures.
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Yea, I have seen some crazy stuff repaired. This one is not really all that bad, but...... I went on the usual haunts looking for a hood and the only 1 I found looked worse than the one I have and it was something like 500. :shock: I might just wait another month and see if I can find one at Carlisle. I had a couple of contacts but one of them passed away a couple of years ago and the other fell off the radar. I do believe that good original hoods are indeed getting to the point of being scarce to no good ones existing. Shame of it was I started collecting them just because, when I had my barn fire I know I had at least 6 really nice ones that were destroyed. I have 3 now, none of which I want to use.
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If it doesn't straighten out- it is still wall art. If it does, you have a hood with a small amount of finessing and filler.
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Update umpteenth. Last call I got was that he needed the oil dipstick tube and dipstick. 'Last part I need to get the motor running'. I have a 400 behind my shop and lo and behold those parts were there. I think I got a bit lucky as the few sources I checked show that part as being discontinued. Dropped it off at the shop, got a call the next day 'I dont have the correct hold down bracket for the distr. but I do have it in and working'. So, another order off to Ames, I checked their cat. and ordered a new dipstick just because (the one I gave him was rusty and crusty but I cleaned it up pretty good, just figured having a new one would not be a bad idea). So happens they showed the dipstick tube so I ordered that as well. THEN, I get another text, 'do you have the lower dip stick tube?' Ah, NO! I had no idea this was a 2 pc thing!! Turns out by shear luck the part I ordered was the lower tube. Stuff came in 2 days and it went to the shop today. Hopefully this will be the last of it.
For the hood, I stood out in the shop one night looking at it and figure what the hey. So I got a BFH and WaCkEd it a couple of times. Putting my template across the front its pretty darn straight as is. I really need to have it in place against the nose for a perfect alignment but I think I have it to where it may work.
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Sweet! Glad the stars are starting to align on this thing!
It a precision adjustment tool, not a BFH. :D
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IIRC- the lower dipstick tube is installed from inside the block.
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I think it may go in by removing the oil pan? I know I ran into this same issue with the motor for my 77. They had a hard time getting the correct part. This time he just asks me for what he needs. I had forgotten all about it until it reared its ugly head again.
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Right. I was just saying to make sure your engine guy doesn’t “force” it through from outside. It has been done- I’ve seen it and it ain’t pretty.
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I can imagine :shock:
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Right. I was just saying to make sure your engine guy doesn’t “force” it through from outside. It has been done- I’ve seen it and it ain’t pretty.
LOL. Is that like trying to stick a wet noodle up a goats.....( :lol:)
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Thats a good one Joe :lol:
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OK, latest STORY, the dyno guy has had covid for the last 2 weeks. May be, as I know of a couple of people in my area that recently had it. Dale called me this past Friday morning. Motor is running, said it sounded great with a bit of a lumpy cam. I cant wait to hear it myself :grin: He did have one minor problem, the knipple that the heater hose attaches to the back of the head was kinda wonky. He wasnt sure if new ones were available so he tried to reuse what was there. It was leaking. SO, I promptly placed an order with Ames and its supposed to be here the first of the week. I was told that once that gets swapped and another run that proves successful I will be a proud new papa :shock:
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After waiting all this time the excitement must be building, many of us who have been following your build are just as excited. Little bit of a lumpy cam also sounds good.
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Congrats on the engine Kerry! I'm curious what kind of power it put down? :cool:
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That is awesome! About time! You are going to get a lot busier here soon I feel.
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Having him test it on the dyno gives confidence it will be right when you get it. The wait is finally over, congratulations.
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The nipple that the heater hose attaches to the back of the head was kinda wonky. He wasn't sure if new ones were available so he tried to reuse what was there. It was leaking. I was told that once that gets swapped and another run that proves successful I will be a proud new papa :shock:
He didn't have a freeze plug to replace the nipple with, "temporarily" so he could finish the test? Unreal.
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He thought the knipple was going to be ok. Thats why he put it back in. He said it wasnt a blow out but leaked none the less. Hence why its being replaced. He did the run in and said it was good. I am not sure if he got it on the dyno yet.
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Will you get to witness the dyno? Be nice to get it on a video...for future enjoyment. :smile:
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I would love to, hopefully my schedule permits. Its usually pretty flexible but for the rest of this week and all of next week I am tied up between 630 and 630 each day :sad: I told him to video for me in case I cannot make it.
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Congrats on the running engine! Good luck getting to Hershey.
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My motor is FINISHED and ready for pick up. :shock: :shock:
Now as bad as it sounds, I need to clean out some space in the shop for it, and find one day in the next week or so that I can get it.
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Don't wait..."RUN", get that thing home! Make space for it later. Put it in the kitchen, if you have ta. And don't forget the pics. :)
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Awesome!
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I am not sure I can believe what you are saying. The saga of your unfinished engine was like watching a version of the Ground Hog movie. Every day I wake up, log on to my iPad to check the status of your engine build. Only to read it’s almost done.
Today the TAC loyalists are cheering for you!
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"Ground hog day?" LOL. A classic Bill Murry movie. Think of the royalties Sonny and Cher got from that movie.
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Def Groundhog Day!
Not sure my wife wants it in the house, LOL. With all that has been going on getting my sons car it has been a hectic week. I started a job a couple of weeks ago that was supposed to be a 2 day in and out, some trim and paint. He ended up with it being a full blown gut job remodel. We had everything tore out, prepped and ready to go. Then had to wait for the electrician for a week. THEN, had to wait for the I.T. guy for another week. I like to work on only one job at a time so things wont get lost in the shuffle and customers dont get too excited so we have had some shop work and other stuff to keep us busy whilst waiting on the subs to finish. Last week would have been perfect for me to pick up the motor. Now this coming week we need to work double to get caught up as this job has put us at least 2-3 weeks behind my already backed up schedule. I will have to squeeze the motor stuff in there somewhere. Gonna go out in the shop in a bit and move stuff around so I have room and can get back to working on the TATA.
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Like it's been said, "There ain't enuff hrs in the day." Know the feeling. You'll get there. Congrats on having the work/income. Helps with the garage projects. Keep us posted, when you find the time.
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Yes, I was going strong on the car and now i am sidetracked on the deck. Oh well its a hobby!
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Take advantage of the nice weather, for them outside projects. Here in New England, it's a luxury we don't always have. Waiting for the rains to happen, when I can get back inside.
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Man that is awesome! Glad to hear it! I'm super excited for you!
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Glad to hear that the motor is done!!
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Scheduled to pick up Friday afternoon!
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Double YAY!!!
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Kerry, we are counting on seeing some pictures! Was the motor holding up your build?
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Today should be the day. I have made arrangements to pick it up this afternoon.
Motor has def. put a hold on the build. Most of the big stuff on the car is done. Int. needs to be done but I have most of the parts ready to put in. Underside is all finished. Body and paint (other than the hood) is complete. I still have a list of to be finished but its quite small compared to when things started. I have never put a motor in a car before so it may be an all summer experience for me :shock: Still need to get the clutch, and have the trans looked over. I have 2 bell housings, not sure if either is correct, so may need one of those as well. I was joking with my son the other day of many friends when I was growing up would pull a motor friday night and back in saturday afternoon (usually outside in the driveway). Cruising back on the street in the evening. How I wish!!!
As a funny side note, about the girl (well she is just a bit older than myself) that is the counter person/shop manager where all of my service work gets done. The guy that owns the shop, along with 2 other places is the fellow that built my motor. Anyway, talking to her the other day I found out that she is the daughter of the guy that built the motor in my first vehicle, a 65 f100. It was a corvette 350 transplant. I have known her family since I was about 15 years old. I knew her, but not well as she was a bit older than myself. She and her older sister and mother drag raced some bad @$@$$ 68 camaros many years ago. She said she started racing when she was 15. Also how her dad had her rebuilding motors at the same time. The owner of the shop is also a drag racer and I joked that she most likely had more runs down the strip than he has. She said yes but dont tell him as his ego will be bruised, LOL.
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Good luck Kerry!! Motor swaps really aren't that bad. In my experience with older cars like ours it's easier to assemble the engine and transmission together then stab them into the car a a unit. Add the shifter and exhaust manifolds later and you'll be completely fine. Have your son help guide the motor in while you run the engine hoist.
When I had the LS1 and t56 in my 68 Camaro, I was selling the motor and the guy who wanted to buy it wanted to hear it run. So I took him for a ride on a Friday when he came to look at the car, pulled the motor Saturday morning, and he bought it Saturday afternoon. Point is, if you have the motor and transmission mounts installed in the car it's really straightforward to get them installed. Give me a call if you need any pointers.
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I’ve never pulled/installed an engine with the trans attached but they’re not hard. Post pics of the bells if you want and we could tell you if they’re correct. BOP look different than Chevy
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Good luck Kerry!! Motor swaps really aren't that bad. In my experience with older cars like ours it's easier to assemble the engine and transmission together then stab them into the car a a unit. Add the shifter and exhaust manifolds later and you'll be completely fine. Have your son help guide the motor in while you run the engine hoist.
I would like to add that if the front clip is not installed you will have far more room. You wont have to put the engine on such a steep angle to clear the core support, the engine can be pretty level and just slide it straight back. You will have plenty of room even with log style manifolds installed. You can leave the distributor installed, but I would remove the cap, it's fragile and easy to crack if you bump into the firewall.
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Thanks for the advice. Any and all is appreciated. I have the core support on but was thinking about taking it off to make things easier. Now that I have it in writing there is no question. I pulled the motor from my 77 myself, leaving the trans attached, and talking with someone else they said without a lift it would be easier to install the trans first and put the whole thing in at one time.
Still have a lot of stuff to take care of, brackets, pulleys etc.
CAN I PUT THE MOTOR IN WITHOUT THAT KIND OF STUFF AND INSTALL AFTER THE FACT?
Still some things to take care of, need to get the clutch and parts etc.
Going to get the car uncovered and washed off tomorrow and get ready to get started. I anticipate all summer doing this but hopefully things will move along quickly and go better than I am thinking.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963089388_c23e11dc2b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGaFgA)2023-06-09_03-46-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGaFgA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The motor looks good, but considering a few things and time frame I have to say I was/am a bit underwhelmed. Carb was rebuilt but not 'polished' up any. He told me upfront that making it shiny was not his thing as much as making it run right. I could have sent it off to be done. Had I known from the beginning that the process was going to take this long I would have approached things a bit differently. Just a few nit picks but that is me being persnickety. He said it runs great and that really is the bottom line. Given a choice I would rather have it run great and look ok.
LET THE GAMES BEGIN :grin: :grin:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963089388_c23e11dc2b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGaFgA)2023-06-09_03-46-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGaFgA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
First thing I had to do was get a new motor lift. I had one before the fire :sad:, insurance paid out but I didnt think I would ever be using one again so didnt bother to replace it. Stopped at TSC and they had none. Went to HF and they had one left. It was the bigger of the two with a 2ton cap. Seems to be as well built as any other thing from there. Little bit of assembly and wham, bam ready to go.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52962799759_0e43641e45_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oG9caZ)2023-06-09_03-59-44 (https://flic.kr/p/2oG9caZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52962658326_cc15e44113_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oG8t8u)2023-06-09_03-59-52 (https://flic.kr/p/2oG8t8u) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Thanks for the advice. Any and all is appreciated. I have the core support on but was thinking about taking it off to make things easier. Now that I have it in writing there is no question. I pulled the motor from my 77 myself, leaving the trans attached, and talking with someone else they said without a lift it would be easier to install the trans first and put the whole thing in at one time.
Still have a lot of stuff to take care of, brackets, pulleys etc.
CAN I PUT THE MOTOR IN WITHOUT THAT KIND OF STUFF AND INSTALL AFTER THE FACT?
Still some things to take care of, need to get the clutch and parts etc.
Going to get the car uncovered and washed off tomorrow and get ready to get started. I anticipate all summer doing this but hopefully things will move along quickly and go better than I am thinking.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52963089388_c23e11dc2b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oGaFgA)2023-06-09_03-46-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2oGaFgA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The motor looks good, but considering a few things and time frame I have to say I was/am a bit underwhelmed. Carb was rebuilt but not 'polished' up any. He told me upfront that making it shiny was not his thing as much as making it run right. I could have sent it off to be done. Had I known from the beginning that the process was going to take this long I would have approached things a bit differently. Just a few nit picks but that is me being persnickety. He said it runs great and that really is the bottom line. Given a choice I would rather have it run great and look ok.
LET THE GAMES BEGIN :grin: :grin:
I don't know if there is any wrong or right way, installing with or without the transmission. If I was just working on the engine, I wouldn't bother pulling the transmission. Since you have the front clip off, including the core support, why wouldn't you bolt the transmission to the engine first and install it in one piece. You probably know this already, make sure you have a new pilot bushing for the crankshaft and a clutch alignment tool when bolting on the pressure plate to the flywheel, so the clutch disk is centered, before bolting up the transmission. You deffinately want a new throughout bearing and put a dab of grease on the clutch fork before installing it on the bellhousing.
Since you will have the fenders and core support out of the way, nothing wrong with bolting on your pulleys, brackets, alternator, P/S pump after the motor is in place. Doing this with the fenders off you won't have to worry about scratching the paint.
That new engine sure looks pretty! Once the air cleaner and shaker is installed, you will almost not be able to see the carb.
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No radiator support, or fenders?! Yeah man, nows the time to put the motor and tranny in together, but more importantly, put on the hedders. So much easier. Even if you're using RA manifolds, bolt them and the head pipes on B4 the fenders. Good to see some fwd progress. Gunna be a good summer. :)
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I would bolt up all the accessories too; there is reason the factory did it that way.
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I am thinking I will make it as compete as possible before setting in the car. When I bought this car, the p.o. had the motor completely disassembled. Block looked like it had been used as a boat anchor, it was that rusty! It was missing a lot of stuff. Fast forward many years down the road and it looks like I need just about everything as far as brackets and ancillaries are concerned. I am going to try and put a list together today and start pecking away one piece at a time. I guess I should have known better, this is stuff I should have been gathering for the last 3 years :shock: :shock:
Anyone have brackets and such they want to get rid of, let me.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50703185291_fd8c89278c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kft5vR)2020-12-10_12-45-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2kft5vR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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This is what I delivered 3 years ago. So considering theres not much there, I guess its a miracle what came back! Being a 4 speed car with original motor I figured most of the value was in the block. I was worried that it could not be salvaged. He said the shop had a hard time getting it cleaned up, but in the end they succeeded.
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whoa! I remember those intakes. Had one, but didn't use it. Think its maybe on my test stand motor, for QJ testing. Can't understand why Pontiac made the secondary holes D shaped. Most light footers wouldn't notice it, but must be a killer at WOT.
Would like ta see a comparison test on that thing.
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I’ve probably got all the brackets and spacers in a couple boxes that I found while moving.
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I did as much research as I knew how to at the time, and all I came up with was that the Pontiac intake was almost/as good as aftermarket with the exception of the weight. So, I decided to use ironside. When the time came it was found to have a crack in it so off to the shelf. I ended up using an Edelbrock performer. Obviously havent got to that point yet but its supposed to be a direct bolt in for the shaker. I wish he would have ground the name off the top as its a dead giveaway though.
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I guess I may as well start adding here since work has started back up. When I got the car the motor was in pieces, rusty and crusty. I had no idea what was and wasnt there. First big shock was that the carb that I got with it was not correct. I got lucky and found a good date coded correct for 79 4 speed carb for $150. This was after I lost out on the sale of one for $600. SO, my procrastination actually paid off for a change.
I had no idea what state the motor was going to be in when I got it back. Its running but there is still a lot of work I need to do to install. With my 77 I dropped the car off and had the shop install the finished motor. I had no idea what came back was going to be so bare :? I looked through the parts and lo and behold I have NO brackets whatsoever. The only thing I did have was the bracket for the A/C as I do have the compressor and dryer and such. Larry (5th TA) came through with most of what I needed, thanks again. Still needing the front alt. bracket, I found a nice used one from Firebird central. It came in yesterday. They have all been cleaned prepped and painted. Picking up my alt. today from Napa and will start to do some installations.
Still need to order the steering pump, most likely from NAPA and the starter (mini from summit).
I cleaned up the bell housing, need to do just a bit more and I think it will suffice. Plan to get the clutch pack ordered today from Summit.
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It is pretty amazing how many little parts there are to complete an engine installation.
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Who'll be installing the clutch, and tranny? Not the eng. builder, I hope.
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Im gonna try that stuff myself, and with the help of the TAC brethren, LOL.
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Getting stuff cleaned up a bit. Got some stuff mocked up on the motor. Once I have it all figured out I will sock everything down the right way.
Went to Napa to get the alternator and surprisingly it was not there. They usually have really good service. The girl at the counter acted like she had no idea what I was talking about. Then after hemming and hawing she asked if she was the one that took the order, which she was. Admitted she forgot to order it. Supposed to be in today.
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I will add, the more I submerse myself into this motor, have been reading through the service manual, comparing to my 77 and talking to a couple of well versed people the more disappointed I am. Still havent got the flywheel or dipstick (although I havent pressed the issue). Said he had it in his truck. I figured the flywheel was removed to attach the lifting sling. Not sure why the dipstick is absent. I have another but realized that the top half of the tube is not there. This is not repro'd and I was lucky enough to have one. I hope its in his truck as well! There are a few minor nitpicks and I hate to be that guy, but for what I paid and how long this took it should be perfect in every way. Its not and I will have some work to do to make it that way.
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Ya, but it is really looking good!
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Looking great Kerry!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52993578913_d8ea56dd67_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oJRWK4)2023-06-22_08-08-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2oJRWK4) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
One more piece LOL. At this rate the 3 year wait will seem insignificant :shock:
Picked up the 80 amp alt. It was too big, the oversized bracket was going to cost $150, so lets look for another alternator. The build sheet calls for a 63 amp unit and so I figured if thats good enough for the factory......... Took the big one back to NAPA. I ordered an 80amp ONLY because when that part went kaput on my 77 a few years ago I went to NAPA for a replacement and they suggested that size since the car had a/c. I found the part no. on the one in my 77 and gave it to the counter person, lo and behold they had one in stock. So, its an 80 amp with the smaller housing. I ordered a bunch of hardware, bolts etc, steering pump. All should be here tomorrow. In the meantime my magnetic pick up tool was just the right size to hold things in place. If all shows up as supposed to hope to get a good go on things this weekend.
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Brackets and alternator look great, one more thing you can check off your list.
I had to go back and look at all 9 pages of your project to refresh my memory and see just how far you have come. I thought you had to replace a floor pan? maybe that was someone else. What about sheet metal was it all in good shape, or did you have to replace some of that as well? Maybe it was before I was a TAC member.
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My 77 was a total rust bucket. One of the reasons why I got the automatic TATA many years ago was that it was literally free of all rust. I got it from a former member here that got it from another member on here (still following?) that had parted out a complete car because no one wanted to buy it as a project. I was interested when it was being offered originally but I was knee deep in my 77 resto. Fast forward, that car was lost in my barn fire as I was doing some work to the door. With the insurance money I got for my stash of parts I found this 4 speed TATA somewhat local to me. This car was complete, however the prev. owner removed the motor, tore it completely apart and left it that way. He had a sea container full of T/A parts and all that I could grab and carry came with the car. The car I am presently restoring was also 99.9% rust free. The body itself was perfect. A good bit of surface rust and it looked pretty bad when I got it but was solid. There was a hole about 6" x 6" in the pass side floor. I simply replaced a patch in the middle. The pass side rear quarter had been replaced at one point which I am guessing was accident damage. I only had to do some touch up around that. They did a great job with the replacement.
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You were lucky to find that 4spd car; there aren't that many. I knew you lost the other one in the fire, but i didn't know the story of getting the new one.
All the brackets came out really nice!
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Super clean. Will almost be a shame to light it off. (I said "almost")
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Ya I really wanted to buy that shell from you. Motor looks awesome!
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Ya I really wanted to buy that shell from you. Motor looks awesome!
I was also very seriously considering that shell.
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Im glad I didnt let it go. It was completely rust free and honestly only suffered a bit of damage from the fire. It did need a roof replacement, and the pass side quarter should have been replaced as the easiest fix. That was about it. HOWEVER, after sitting for the last several years it has completely rusted through! There is NO trunk pan and it looks like it has been sitting below dirt for 20 yrs now. I am sure the culprit is the chemicals in the fire fighting equipment that was used to put out the barn fire. I never would have had an idea they would do that! Now I know what they mean by using a special fire extinguisher for your car and not the average abc model.
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One bite at a time. Nothing put back on the motor yet. Got some more stuff cleaned up. Napa failed again and sent the wrong PS pump pulley, but the correct pump. So a re order is needed. Need to get that installed before I put the pump into place. Waiting on a couple of fasteners, then I think I can get the front end put together. Need to get the trans to the shop for a once over. I will be surprised if it needs anything other than maintenance. It seems pretty sound to me but what do I know? Once that has been confirmed and I get my clutch ordered then I think I will be almost ready for an install. We have been really busy at work, but a few days each week have been a bit 'relaxed' and allowed some free. Fortunately we are slammed again for the next month but that means less time for the shop work :sad:
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I love the before and after pictures. Amazing job on the fan and clutch assembly. I noticed you can clearly see the Delco markings on the clutch assembly!
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Yes and the Ohio USA is there as well. I forgot to point out my special parts cleaner! LOL.
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Yes, I couldn’t hep but notice that purposely built fan cleaning tray. If your ever done restoring fans, it might work as a garbage container lid!
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Nice work, those parts really cleaned up well. Be sure to replace the transmission front seal before re-installing.
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Will do Bob, Thats a great idea Larry, I never thought of that :lol:
Had some bolts shipped for the fan to water pump but for some reason they never got here because the post office says I dont live where I do. I wish people that send me bills would get the same memo, LOL.
Replacements are on the way, MANY THANKS AGAIN! Once I get them and the replacement PS pulley I should be able to get the front buttoned up.
Took my trans to my builder for a once over. Just doing a visual and clicking through the gears he didnt think there would be anything wrong with it. Hes going to open it up though for a once over and put some new lube in.
The bad news-When I dropped the trans off, he informed me that one of his shop foremans had passed away suddenly. Other than the obvious for his sake the bad part is that he had my dipstick and upper tube. Now they are MIA. I have no idea why this guy had them but it is what it is. I have a new dipstick, no biggie now to find the upper tube!!
Its been super hot, and I have been super busy so not much shop time. Once I have the correct bolts I plan on getting back to things and start to thinking about getting this beast installed.
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Lots of work done!!
All caught up!!
looks amazing!!
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Not much happening as of late. Too hot and too busy. Ordered some more parts from Ames that came in promptly, water pump studs are backordered, but they said they should have been in this past week so I am hoping to get them sometime next week. I got most of everything else I think I need at the moment. Havent heard back on the trans, but will reach out next week to see if he had a chance to look it over. Went to the Camaro nationals yesterday in PA to pick up my exhaust system. I ordered it from Firebird (camaro) Central in May with a sale. Delivered to the show and no shipping fee. I had been wanting to go the venue for awhile so it was a good excuse to take the day off. Place is about 40 min or so from home.
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The funny part is that FBCentral had the best price at the time on the Pypes, so they delivered from KY. The Pypes HQ is maybe half hour at the most away from the show where it was delivered :shock:
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Forgot to ad, the upper dipstick tube (which the shop lost) is not repr'od anymore. Ames used to have them but no longer. I found one from Franks in Cali. Ordered on Monday, delivery was set for Thurs. Get an email on wed, delivery delayed until friday! Get an email on Friday delivery delayed because of weather, no date given. Get an email this morning, delivery for Monday. We shall see.
I ordered parts for my dishwasher the day after the Franks order, also from Cali and those parts got here yesterday.
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Frank's is a great resource. My orders were shipped quickly.
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Dishwashers are "definitely" more important than car parts. :lol:
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You got that right! Mice ate through the drain hose 3 times now!! I found a couple of spots where I think they got into the house and kitchen in particular. I think I have eradicated them, and sealed everything. Hoping for the best. The dishwasher is a bosch, and unlike most others I have dealt with the drain hose connects inside of the unit. Some parts have to be taken apart to gain access, its a big PIA the first time around. I can do it with my eyes closed now. I have worked on several areas of this thing and know it pretty well. BUT I will never buy another Bosch.
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Sounds like you need a steel braided drain hose!
Wandering off topic here.
Sorry you had a bad experience with your Bosch dishwasher. I replaced ours with a Bosch probably six years ago maybe more. They switched the fitting for the water supply line to what you see on a washing machine or garden hose. I didn’t like that, but maybe all manufacturers use that type of hose now? I also had to replace the soap dispenser because half the time it would not open. The part was cheap and only took about 10 minutes to replace. On the plus side it’s so quiet you don’t know it’s running. More important, it does an incredible job cleaning dishes. No rinsing is necessary. I am just amazed at how soiled dishes can be and they come out spotless.
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The last time I replaced the hose I used a piece of flex electrical conduit as a sleeve. In order for me to get it hooked up and then set in place I had to leave the conduit about 4" short. The little b&^&^%&^%& ate through that one point!! I cannot believe the hose is made of a product that emits such a scent (I suppose thats what attracts them) that is so enticing.
My old DW died right in the middle of covid. It was Easter weekend and all of the places I checked were into July before a new DW would be available. So we started scouring all of the stores for in stock inventory (which was almost non existent). I had a decent one to begin with and didnt want to cheap out but was running short on options. We finally found this bosch as a floor model from best buy. It retailed for almost $1400 and we got it for $800 being a floor model. First problem encountered when we went to hook it up. It did not wire direct like all the others I have hooked up. Instead Bosch has a better idea of having a power box which is sold separately, which the Best buy salesman forgot to tell us!! Fortunately Lowes had one in stock. Never have been crazy about how it cleans, not nearly as thorough as our old dw. Threw a code and the water drain overflow was flooded, so had to take things apart to fix that. Then when the drain hose fiasco started found out that you have to take things apart to change the hose. One thing you are right about though, with my hearing I cannot even hear when its running, it is that quiet.
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Back to the regular scheduled program :grin:
Weather finally cooled off enough to give me some motivation for shop time after work. I got most of the parts in from orders to get things rolling. First I pressed the pulley on the new power steering pump. I 'borrowed' the tool from autozone. Had a hard time getting the pump installed. I thought it was pretty much cut and dry :shock: After several attempts, then a couple trips back and forth to the garage to look at my 77 I realized that NAPA gave me the WRONG pump! One bolt hole lined up with the install bracket the other did not. SO now to remove the pulley and look for the correct pump. I did learn how to press the pulley on and remove so theres that :-) NAPA did good with parts that I have needed for my 77, batting 0 with this one so far.
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I forgot to add a special thanks to KY YETTI. He sent me the vent tube I was looking for. A few minutes with a fine gr. roloc and its ready to roll. Now I need to move the hole in the air cleaner.
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THANKS AGAIN MIKE!
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Cool. looks like an exhaust pipe for a mini-bike.
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I feel that the olders these cars get the harder it is to aquire correct parts. I know that sounds like it would be obvious but I think I forget how old these cars really are.
The tube cleaned up nice!
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I feel that the olders these cars get the harder it is to aquire correct parts. I know that sounds like it would be obvious but I think I forget how old these cars really are.
The tube cleaned up nice!
You mean you forget how old we are don't you? :-D :-D
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Cool. looks like an exhaust pipe for a mini-bike.
I had the exact same thought!!!
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Bought a motor lift from HF, it was something like $30 and I found out why. Its only about 16" long! NOT nearly big enough for a Pontiac motor, may fit a toyota, LOL. So I did some rigging and made a contraption to move my motor about. It works just fine like this but Im not comfortable enough to set the motor in the car with it. Will have to borrow the shops sling when the day comes.
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Still waiting on the water pump bolts and the steering pump. Though I did get an email today saying I have a delivery scheduled for today, but no shipper mentioned?? So I decided to clean up the A/C stuff. I really have no desire to use this stuff and am planning on a new compressor but just in case I dont get one and need to put something in for looks I have this as a backup.
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That is one beautiful mock up piece!
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Beautiful job on the compressor, hoses and mounting hardware. Maybe the compressor is not functional, it sure looks good.
When I earned a living as a mechanic I spent the extra money for SnapOn sockets and wrenches, they fit better over rusted nuts and bolts and if they ever did break the tool salesman came once a week and replaced them. Fifty years later if something breaks I call them up and the ship a new replacement within days. Nowadays I go to Harbor Freight for something new because the price advantage is hard to argue with and from a hobbyist standpoint it gets the job done. I would pass on something like their Jack stands where my life could be at stake.
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I bought that same HF load leveler, it is supposed to be good for 1500 pounds. Can't you just hook it to the intake bolts? Or are you planning to use the lift tabs?
It is hard to beat the price/value at HF. I always go there first and most of items have been good quality.
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More progress :D I envy you guys. I just don't have the dedication anymore. Getting old ain't as fun as they said it would be.
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The younger guys have all that youthful enthusiasm and go power. Us old guys plug away at a slower pace.
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Carb is mounted and motor has been run, so I dont want to mess with anything. Yes using the lift points on both ends of the block.
I lost a bit of motivation waiting for the last 3 years for the motor to get done. I really thought it would be in the car by now as I had planned on putting it in the week after it came home. Still waiting on some small parts. Got some stuff today and hopefully will get the rest of what I am looking for by tomorrow. The heat is the big thing for me. I dont get around in it as well as I used to. I really hope that once the motor is back in the car I can dedicate a couple hours a night until its back on the road.
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Five minutes of progress. I got the correct ps pump from Ames, got it in place no problem. Comparing it to the 'correct' part from NAPA it became clear why I was pulling my hair out trying to get it in. Wasnt even close. Larry (5th ta) was kind enough to send me the studs to mount the fan to the pulley (along with many other parts, THANKS AGAIN). BUT they were lost in the mail. Hopefully he has luck with the PO. SO, a replacement order was made through the parts place, but again they had a local storm and something messed up on their end and the order was lost. In the meantime I placed them on order with AMES but they are back ordered. I was told they were expecting them within a week so I let the order stand. After 2 1/2 weeks and counting I decided to check back with the parts place. I placed the order and 2 days later they were on my door step. Pretty good service :grin: Went to install yesterday and these darn things just keep fighting all the way :shock: The stud has 2 types of threads, one coarse and one fine. The fine threads go into the block, the coarse hold the fan assembly in place with a nut. The parts place sent the nuts and washers for the FINE thread side :???: SO, off to the local hardware store to get the proper nuts. Got there at 4:04, they closed at 4. Gives me a trip today.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53091512831_e1c30c49d3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oTvT5T)2023-08-03_02-33-25 (https://flic.kr/p/2oTvT5T) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I think I have the front buttoned up enough to get things rolling along. Finally got all of the correct parts in and installed. I ordered a clutch kit from summit, supposed to be on the door step this saturday. Hope to get some shop time on sunday to get working on that. Havent heard back on the transmission yet but I believe if I can get the clutch/bell housing installed I should be able to get the motor in the car. I will worry about the trans. install when the time comes. I am tired of looking at this thing sitting on the floor and all but ready to get it put where it belongs. Also ordered a new lifting sling from summit. Hope it will do the trick. I opted for the lesser of the 2 'good ones' they had. My builder let me use his to unload off my truck but they sell for almost $200. I spent the $100 and may use it a couple of times. If I did this on a regular basis def. would have gone all in.
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Forgot to add, I got the hole cut into the air cleaner at the correct spot. Need to get the welder hooked up (im out of gas right now) to patch in the extra hole.
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Engine looks really good Kerry! Do you by any chance have access to someone with an engine run stand? It would be good to fire it up and iron out any potential issues before installing in the car.
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Engine sure looks nice Kerry! Good enough to put a drop cloth behind and snap some pictures for framing. The pictures would make for nice wall art in a garage.
I couldn't help but notice how you had the lettering of the power steering and alternator belts lined up next to each other.
Regarding Gene's comment about running the engine before installing, I thought you said your engine builder ran the engine on a dyno?
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What is it that worries you about the trans install?
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The end is (finally) near. :smile:
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I think I have the front buttoned up enough to get things rolling along. Finally got all of the correct parts in and installed. I ordered a clutch kit from summit, supposed to be on the door step this saturday. Hope to get some shop time on sunday to get working on that. Havent heard back on the transmission yet but I believe if I can get the clutch/bell housing installed I should be able to get the motor in the car. I will worry about the trans. install when the time comes. I am tired of looking at this thing sitting on the floor and all but ready to get it put where it belongs. Also ordered a new lifting sling from summit. Hope it will do the trick. I opted for the lesser of the 2 'good ones' they had. My builder let me use his to unload off my truck but they sell for almost $200. I spent the $100 and may use it a couple of times. If I did this on a regular basis def. would have gone all in.
Absolutly GORGEOUS!
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Yes, motor has been run and broken in. I have been told it 'ran beautifully'. Same guy built my 77 motor and it is fantastic so I am not worried about that aspect.
My concern with the transmission install is- I have never done it before :shock: Nor have I installed a clutch, or even installed a motor in a car for what that is worth. BUT, with the help here and some people I know I think I can persevere. One of the reasons it has sat in my floor for so long now, a bit of hesitation of making sure everything is ready to go.
Never thought about the drop cloth background thing, but that is a great idea.
Not sure anyone would notice the writing on the belts. I had them installed and then saw the writing wasnt aligned between the two. In fact one was even backwards. I have just a slight case of ocd and it was bothering me, after a 5 minute internal debate I removed the one and put it back in line with the other. I know as soon as they make a revolution they will be off but I know how they started :shock:
Same with the extra hole in the air cleaner. My first thought was to block it off from the inside with a simple piece of gorilla tape or something of the like, then the 'keep it gm' sticker on the outside will cover. But I will know that is just a hack that I will never be happy with. Get the welder out!
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It’s good to be a perfectionist, lots of things nobody would notice on your car because it’s out of sight. But surely it will bother you if it’s not perfect. It’s great to have high standards on workmanship. You and other perfectionist on TAC inspire members to do things the correct way.
I can understand your apprehension, with a second set of experienced hands you will do just fine installing your engine and transmission. Maybe a comparison would be for a skilled mechanic with little carpentry skills who is a little reluctant on replacing a window or entry door on their house. Where for you who has done it hundreds of times knows exactly what to do, there likely is no unforeseen challenges that you haven’t dealt with before.
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Yea I have no doubt you’ll get it done without issue. I wish I was closer and I’d help. I’ve pulled my engine and trans close to half a dozen time’s probably over the years. The trans is way easier and the engine isn’t that hard to begin with. Any tips I can provide I will. I’ll PM you something that might help a little. For me though, using a Jack with my adapter I made was key. I only pulled it and reinstalled it once by hand.
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Video is great! Makes it look easy, LOL.
It took me about 3 months to build up the courage to take my axles out! I talked to people, looked at utube etc. Then finally one day I put on my big boy pants and viola! No big deal. Hope the experience installing the motor will be the same.
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I’m sure it will. Just don’t drop yours like I did with mine. Yea….. lol
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The engine looks great!!
Installing it is pretty much the same as anything else... if you don't cut corners, it will go alright and work even better!!
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Got my decals today. They were down on the list of priorities at this point until fellow member posted about the limited availability, so in a panic mode I placed the order. I can actually put a lot of them on as the car has been in paint and is ready to go. Might give me some incentive.
Still waiting to get my transmission back. Guy was on vacation last week. Figured Id give him a couple of days before I started bugging again.
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Limited supply eh?
hmmmm
Phoenix Graphics?
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Yes, Charlie to rehash, there was a post on here, someone looking for stripes. SO, I got in touch with PG and they have NO preformed stripes in stock and no idea when they will have more. They have been waiting a year so far with no projected delivery in sight. They do have roll material, which is how the factory did it so I figure no biggie, will be another learning curve. PG did not seem to be short on anything else, hood birds, smaller decals etc. But who knows? I spoke with them a year or so ago and at that time they told me they had a few 10th kits on the shelf and had no intentions of replacing their stock. But he did say they dont sell too many and they should be there for awhile. I missed out on the pre formed didnt want to find out they had nothing left. If they werent $700 I would order another as a spare, LOL.
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I'll need to cross my fingers, and hope something is available when/if I get to that point!!
thank you
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This thing is a continuous uphill battle. IF I ever get it running (not worried about finished at this point :shock:) it will be a miracle.
Shop has had my transmission for a few weeks to give it a once over. Picked it up this morning and all is good. He tore into it and gave it a good health check. That was the last part I was waiting for to get my motor installed. Got back to the shop, opened up my new clutch that has been sitting on the bench for the last month and :shock: :shock: :shock: I ordered the
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WRONG one! (sorry for the 2 page, I hit a button that pasted, duhh). The part I wanted for a 26 spline clutch had an S at the end of the number. I ordered a 10 spline which has the exact same number, just no S. Will ship the wrong one back but I ordered the correct one. Supposed to be here in 4 to 5 days. I usually get stuff from summit in a 2 day turn around but this part is coming from Nevada, so I guess thats where the extra days come from. Really hoping to get things put together and the motor installed over labor day weekend.
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ARGH!!!, I feel for you.
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Don't sweat the small stuff Kerry.
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So it continues, the 'wrong clutch' had a pilot bearing that was too big on the outside diameter. So, thinking ahead that the correct one coming this week may be wrong as well I ordered one from NAPA. Picked up today, its closer in size but still wrong! The search continues........
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For what it’s worth I run a LUK brand clutch and the bushing it came with fit my crank. A point to note is LUK started including a throwout bearing with a composite rear material where the fork rides. I did as much research as I could to see what the consensus was but I only seemed to find people complaining about it who never ran it. I chose not to use mine and got an all steel bearing. (Two of which have failed on me so I’m tempted to try the part-composite one).
Btw the LUK kits run a kit $100 and the pedal feel is described as factory. They come in 11” and 10.5” so watch what you order depending on what size your flywheel is set up for.
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The engine does look spectacular, Kerry!
Looking forward to seeing it in its natural habitat. I hope the engine and trans stop fighting the inevitable soon.
Have you tried talking nice to 'em? Let them know they were made for each other...Soul mates and all that ;-)
Sending positive energy your way.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53171013457_903a1793bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2p1xkRk)2023-09-07_06-57-12 (https://flic.kr/p/2p1xkRk) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
VICTORY! Some times the tail will wag the dog. I ordered the clutch pack from summit, info said perfect fit for Pontiac. Pilot bearing was too big, or so I thought. I have been on a wild goose chase trying to find the correct one. It only took 6 trys to get it right! Not being able to find the right size anywhere I figured to get an oversized bronze/brass bushing and have a machinist make it fit. Out of desperation I contacted Butler Performance to see if by chance they had heard of multiple size Pontiac bearings. Scott gave me a call (which was pretty decent as I have never bought or been in touch with them before this). I sent him pictures and he immediately said I WAS MEASURING IN THE WRONG PLACE :shock: :shock: :shock: There are 2 steps in the end of the crank. I had been measuring the furtherest point which was also the smaller diameter. I ASSUMED the bearing went in that position 1. because I have never done anything like this before and 2. the bearing I got from Summit almost fit in that position, but was just a hair too big.
So, with the help of Scott, the correct bearing was ordered, showed up yesterday on the doorstep and Im hoping to get work done early enough today to get started on putting this thing together. I did ask with his knowledge whether a bearing or a bushing is better. He said most of his customers are split and either way will be fine.
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Funny how something that would seem simple can turn into a project. Glad you got over the pilot bearing hurdle. I can’t wait to see pictures of the long awaited engine sitting in your TATA. Not that I want to rush you in any way!
I have nothing but good things to say about the folks at Butler. As you might recall my engine was built by Butler for another forum member. I called Butler to enquire on details on the engine, at the time I had not purchased anything from them. Scott spent a lot of time with me providing in depth information on the engine. I since have purchased parts, and accessories from them. Their service is always great, prices competitive and I seem to recall no shipping charges on several items.
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Thanks for that posy Kerry! It has been decades since I installed a ST10 in a car. I will need to get a pilot bushing as well for my project, so I'll keep that in mind. Onwards and upwards!
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Another step forward and reached a minor milestone for my car last night. Got the clutch put in on Saturday. The stand the motor was on interfered with the mounting of the bell housing. So I had to get my lift from the other garage (after unloading my recent motor purchase :-D) and make a temp motor stand. Last night I was able to get the bell housing and transmission installed! :grin: :grin:
First time in at least 10 years these parts have been together, and the first time since 1979 that they have been in this condition. Gonna take the core support off tonight or tomorrow and get things ready to install into the car, hopefully Friday or Saturday.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53181137451_ae2f0b7685_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2p2remX)2023-09-11_05-54-39 (https://flic.kr/p/2p2remX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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My awesome motor stand, c'mon, how else is a carpenter supposed to do it :lol: And its treated so it will last!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53155574341_91dbceb464_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oZbdkF)2023-08-31_05-54-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2oZbdkF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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And a reminder of what the motor looked liked the day I brought it home.
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Fantastic update Kerry!! Won't be long now and you'll have it stabbed in the car!
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Nice!! I see you had two crankshafts and two bellhousings on the pallet. Just duplicates or other projects?
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This is pretty darn exciting for me! I love the before and after pictures. Like many others when I see a basket case, I can dream that some day it will be restored to perfection. But getting there can be quite the journey. One of my favorite things about TAC is watching when you and other members take on the challenge and bring a pile of parts back to life.
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Awesome! Can’t wait to see your continued progress. I dig the stand too
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Luke, there were a ton of parts that came with this car. The interior was full of trim stuff, and being the motor was completely disassembled, there was a ton of motor parts. There was an extra crank, I ran the numbers and I think it was for a chevy truck? extra flywheel, no idea what it was from. Also a couple of bell housings, one correct again no idea what the other is for? There was a good carb in the pile but after I ran the numbers found it was not original. I got in touch with the seller after a couple of years to see if he had the original but it was not to be. That is one important part of the motor not original. I was able to find a 'correct' numbers matching one so I figured that was about as good.
Larry, my biggest weakness with old cars is that I only look at them with rose coloured glasses. I look at a dilapidated POS and can clearly see the finished project in my mind. This is ok if one has a bottomless check book and an infinite matter of time, I have neither! I have seen cars posted on another forum for sale that look pretty darn good to me and most of the comments come back 'parts car'! Maybe I should change my name to that.
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I'm in the same boat Kerry but maybe worse. I buy the darn parts car...
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Haha, that feeling when you buy the parts car and it's in better shape than your project car. Then you end up restoring two cars hahaha
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Great to see you're making progress Kerry!
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Slight hiccup, but nothing surprises me at this point. I knew the motor mounts were not right as someone had welded them to the frame. Cut them off today to re-install, and from what I can tell they are not correct. They do not match the picture in the assembly manual, nor do they match a spare that I have, nor do they match the ones on my TATA burn car I have behind the garage. SO, back a few steps and order a new pair, along with some other odds and ends. I took the core off in anticipation of the motor install. Bottom branches had a bit of rust, as I did not take them off when I painted the core. So, a bit of touch up with those. In the meantime I can clean 3 years of dust off the frame.
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Here is an original motor mount I had on the shelf. Notice the blue paint spot. This only fits on the passenger side. On the build sheet for the motor mounts is 'blue/green'. When I restored my 77 the mounts had blue paint on one side and green on the other. I would assume blue is for the passenger side.
Also in the assemble manual they show a 'shield' which mounts on the top of the motor mount with a note that says r.h. side only. Anyone know anything about that?
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There are 2 steps in the end of the crank. I had been measuring the furtherest point which was also the smaller diameter. I ASSUMED the bearing went in that position 1. because I have never done anything like this before and 2. the bearing I got from Summit almost fit in that position, but was just a hair too big.
The same thing happened to me when I installed the TKO600. American Powertrain sent me one that maybe was for a Chevy. I had to order the correct Pontiac one and put it in the right place. I hope the staking job I did was OK; no problems so far.
Luk clutches has favorable reviews. My Centerforce has much more pedal pressure than stock.
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After a bit of a wait, this showed up today. Randy C did the resto. Looks beautiful, kinda goldish in the pic but thats just the bad lighting in my house.
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Looks great! What was turnaround time? I have one I’m going to send eventually.
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Kerry, I was hoping to hear the motor running in the car but see you made some progress. I need to catchup some more but that's a major milestone.
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Nice! Finally some bling!
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Not appropriate, but I figured the tenth car was upscale so it should have had the dash upgraded a bit.
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Sprayed things down with simple green and a rinse of clean water. This poor thing had 3 years of dust on it. Also got the new motor mounts installed. That was a bit of a pain in the ......... I used a magnetic pick up tool to hold the bolt then fished it through a small hole in the side of the a arm. This took a bit of finaggeling to get things aligned but worked ok with a bit of patience. Then onto the driver side and much to my chagrin there was no access hole. Had to do the same trick but up from the underneath. Turned out that side was a bit easier.
Ram Air sight says they have exhaust manifolds in stock. I am going to call today to confirm and if they do will place an order. I will put them on the motor before I do the install. I wanted to go with them all along and have been waiting since last august for a pair. Then when they were available I was under the impression they were sold out again and figured on using the stock mani's. I have waited this long a couple more weeks wont hurt at this point.
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Motor mounts and dash look great. I have wondered about installing those mounts with the limited access. It looks like it would be very difficult, but must be doable as people replace them.
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I have a set still on the frame of my car that burnt that is behind my barn. The bolt heads are showing and I had a crazy idea that they may have been tapped into the cross member of some description. I tried to pull them off and the head just spun. The service manual shows them installed as I have done with the bolt coming up and the nut on the mount side, so thats how I did it. Then I noticed in the fine print is says 'direction optional'!
I would imagine without the wheels on, without the coils in place etc. it would be easy access. I was afraid I was going to have to take everything apart to get at them.
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Kerry, dash bezel looks great, a good place to spend your money since that's something you see every time you're behind the wheel.
I removed and reinstalled my engine mounts from the bare subframe with the lower control arms removed, definitely the easiest way to do it. When I had issues with the shaker being slightly higher on the driver's side and cockeyed I swapped the mounts with the engine in the car. I had to lift the engine with a floor jack as high as it would go. The Ram Air manifolds are much larger than the log style and make it more difficult. If you were even remotely thinking about new mounts, now was the best time to replace them. Not to mention any 44 year old part with rubber should probably be replaced anyway. You will not regret having replaced the mounts now.
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I really like the chrome bezels on the dash. It looks really nice. I agree that the dash IS one of the best places to spend money...Like 5th T/A said...You'll enjoy it every time you sit in the car. I put 70' Challenger TA gauge faces in my '11 Challenger. One of my favorite mods in any car.
Gettin' those engine mounts in is a nice milestone too. I've done them twice on this car in my life...I have no desire to do it a third time.
Congrats on the progress. Forgive me if I missed an update somewhere, but...Do you have a target date to get the engine dropped in? Getting excited for you!
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Hi Tom, I have been meaning to send you a note to see how your car was doing.
I had planned on getting the motor installed a month ago, then realized the mounts were wrong. Then the plan was to install this past weekend after I got the new mounts in place. NOW, I have decided to go with upgraded exhaust manifolds so I will wait until I can get them bolted to the motor before I install. At the beginning of the summer my plan was to have the car ready for Hershey, which is next week!! I wont make that deadline :shock:
I figure at this point with winter closing in I realistically wont have it on the road until spring so I may as well wait for the correct parts and do it right the first time.
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Looks fantastic Kerry!
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Need to get my Oct post before it slips away. Hard to believe November will be here in a few hours. I had planned on having my car ready for the Hershey show the first week in Oct. and still have not gotten any closer than I was about 6 months ago.
Oct was busy for me, both work and off work. Should have plenty of time coming up though. We did get the motor kinda put into place this past weekend. Didnt have any real problems getting it set in place, however we had a hard time getting the mounts to align. Fooled with it for a bit then decided to step back and take a break. Planned on hitting it Sunday but things got in the way, hopefully will be able to get it buttoned up sometime in the next few days. Then the wiring and vacuum lines :???:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53300160880_4087ed639a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pcXfT3)2023-10-31_07-41-41 (https://flic.kr/p/2pcXfT3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
On my recent trip I did pick up these parts. One of the few things I did not have with my car.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53300155180_b269a14a28_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pcXebL)2023-10-31_07-37-18 (https://flic.kr/p/2pcXebL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Kerry, congratulations, it has a new heart and only a matter of time before it will be beating.
That space saver spare looks brand new. I wonder how many people actual tried using them.
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3/4 of the way in :shock:
The tire is near perfect with great lettering. From what I understand this was found in a junk yard with the tire being well preserved but the side of the rim that was laying on the floor rusted through in a couple of places right on the outer rim. I do think someone repainted it at one point. It looks good from 5 ft but I plan on stripping it back down and doing some bondo repair to the edge (never plan on using it) to make it look a bit better. I have been kinda looking for one of these as its one of the last pieces I need to have a 'complete' car. I was able to pick it up from a friend on my recent trip so that saved a bit on shipping.
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Love to see the project moving forward, even if slowly. Keep at it my friend!
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Congrats on getting the motor installed Kerry! Huge step forward.
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Engine looks good in there!!
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Congrats on the engine install! That's a big one. You're practically finished, now. Right? :-P
Looking good.
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I said the engine was in 3/4! That thing fought me as hard as it could but I finally won. Had one side bolted in, fought off and on for the last week to get the dr. side mount to bolt up. Got the trans mount in last night and the trans cross member installed. So as far as I know I will call the motor installed!! :grin: I ordered a new wiring harness for the motor only as the front harness is pretty good. Its supposed to be here today. I can go forward with getting the fuel line hooked up, and start the dreaded task of vacuum lines, which I am not looking forward to. I tend to look at things with rose coloured specs but I think being realistic at this point I am setting the first of the year as a goal to get it started and running.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53329534173_57c1424c72_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pfxNx8)2023-11-13_08-55-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2pfxNx8) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53329533403_172de7c69c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pfxNiR)2023-11-13_08-55-32 (https://flic.kr/p/2pfxNiR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53328434247_e8dfea5b17_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pfsayT)2023-11-13_08-55-40 (https://flic.kr/p/2pfsayT) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New wiring harness. Got it from Summit as they offered immediate shipping. Ames had a note that they come directly from the supplier and will have additional shipping time.
It looked good, but I do say I was a bit disappointed that nothing was labled. For the cost I dont think it would be that hard to day what wire goes where. I suppose they figure anyone doing this work is not a numbskull such as myself and knows where things go. With the help of what 'Wheels 78' posted in another thread I was able to decipher things quickly.
Old block came right out, and new one plugged in pretty easy.
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Great investment Kerry. Especially when you consider the condition of the original harness.
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The good/bad part is the other harness' look fine. It would be nice to put all new in considering how nice these look, however the cost of the new stuff for a couple feet of wire is ridiculous!! I suppose the front harness was never really touched but over the years the engine stuff surely was mucked with and took a beating. As typical found a couple more small parts I have placed on order.
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Any updates Kerry?
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What he said :grin:
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What they said...... 8)
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Kerry, I will give you a pass for not updating. Between the weather, holidays and running a business it is probably safe to say you are not sitting on your hands.
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Sorry for the dead air. List of excuses: First I was having a hard time logging on to the site. I had to switch to ffox which I did not like, but for some reason the old way is back and working fine. So I should be on here more often now, arent you guys lucky :shock:
2nd-I really havent had that much time in the shop as of late. Work has been busy and I lost a bit of motivation to go out into a cold shop for a couple of hours of work.
C-As much as I hate to admit, I am a huge football fan so Sundays in the early winter are pretty much me sitting in front of the tube all day. All that will be coming to an end soon so I will face the depression of no football :lol: and boredom which should give me some more shop time.
Progress update: Not really sure where I left off, but the wiring is complete, I picked up some parts to get some of the vaccum lines hooked up. I used a ebrock alum manifold (against my better judgement) and when I went to hook up the new throttle cable I bought realized there was nothing to attach it to the manifold? I looked at pics of the part when I dropped it off to the shop a year+ ago and lo and behold there is the bracket. No surprise, after calling the shop they had no idea where that part was and would call if they found it. I had to order an aftermarket bracket from ames at over $100 so not too happy about that. Its installed and I plan on getting the cable in soon. My plan now is to get the fuel line hooked up, finish the electrical (battery, starter connections) and see if I can get the motor to fire up. I think if I put my mind to it I can have this car running by late spring. :shock:
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Great to see you've had some time with it. I know what you mean about football Sunday's.
I've gotten too lazy lately but just started working on some things.
I just picked up my engine today. Pics tomorrow.
That engine is looking good for how far you've gone as far as the install. Can't wait to see more progress.....when you get the time. :D
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Got a little more done over the weekend. I had a few loose bolts from the install so I went back and made sure everything was socked down good and tight. I got a new pair of 'correct' battery cables and got those installed. I was going to get those from napa but they have let me down with parts as of late so I chickened out and spent the big bucks :sad: I think at this point all of the electrical connections are done :? I am getting a grasp on the vacuum crap. Still looking for a few parts for that. Fuel lines hooked up. Refinished the gas pedal and got a new cable installed. Need to place another order for some more parts, probably wont be in until the end of the week. I am planning on going to the AACA convention towards the end of the week so I wont get much accomplished.
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Kerry, good to see you making progress. Hope you enjoy the AACA convention!
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Kerry, any time you can do something to the car it's progress. Eventually it will all add up to a finished car. Have fun at the AACA!
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I'm not sure if they suggest anything in the harness kits but way want to mask up the ends of the wires/firewall and spray some underbody type thick sealant into those terminal backs to seal. Otherwise it will collect moisture and lead to electrical issues long-term.
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Thanks for the advice. They gave some contact gel for the install, but I didnt think of putting anything on top. It was quite a mess when I took the old off, I know thats what that crap was. Hate to put goop on a nice shiny new part but I know it will be worth it in the long run.
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Got a few hours in the shop yesterday, hope to get a couple more today. I think all of the vacuum stuff is done. I have a couple of loose ends but the routing is all figured out at this point, which to me was the biggest hurdle. My builder put a single port to hook up the br. booster. Ames had a carb vac tree but its not correct. I got it and had to rig it up. It looks fine but not 100% correct. I found the right one and hopefully it will be here towards the end of the week. I looked everywhere but could not seem to find the right vac switches. Ended up finding some stuff from Franks. I got the power steering hoses hooked up -again got stuff from ames and its not right! They have been my go to forever but Im starting to see a theme here :sad: At this point just about everything is ready for a start. Just a couple of minor bits to take care of first. Enclosed is a few pics of some of the ports I got and cleaned up. Once everything is together as best as I can I will post an overall shot of the motor.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535537689_a1813f20f0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyKCcT)20231127_100543 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyKCcT) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535402508_825643fda5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyJW2b)20231127_100935 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyJW2b) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Switch for the air cleaner. Not repro'd. Had to find used. Still looking for the clip that holds it in place.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535529734_353473798c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyKzQJ)20240122_135221 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyKzQJ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535634740_8601280f9d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyL84b)20240122_150227 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyL84b) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535212761_5e269f4034_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyHXBF)20240122_140348 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyHXBF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Throttle kick down, cleaned up a bit and reinstalled.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535384683_f86b33a229_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyJQHR)20240216_145951 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyJQHR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53534318317_0626cd67ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyDnJe)20240217_125102 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyDnJe) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53535624435_ee5ff81acc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyL4Zv)20240217_125706 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyL4Zv) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
3 port switch (broke) that was on my motor, the one I found from Franks then cleaned up. This mounts in the head at the pass side. Differs between auto trans and manual. I had one for auto, Go figure.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537173110_51b85c6753_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyU1mN)20240202_110502 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyU1mN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536935423_d90f04a5ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pySMGK)20240202_110506 (https://flic.kr/p/2pySMGK) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536748136_aea88093d7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pyRQ2E)20240202_133639 (https://flic.kr/p/2pyRQ2E) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536935018_653e87ddcd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pySMzL)20240202_134334 (https://flic.kr/p/2pySMzL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Gas pedal cleaned and painted. I took the metal trim off and polished it, cleaned the rubber pad between each rib with a nail to get all of the grime out. I did this awhile ago when I was waiting for parts. I find taking care of little things like this (minnie restoration) keeps the momentum going and helps mentally knowing that at least something is getting finished.
Today is the 45 anniv. to the day of the official intro of the Tenth Anniv. T/A. :grin: :grin:
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Wow. Talk about your details. looks like you're honing in on the finished product. Should be an enjoyable spring. :)
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Nice work Kerry. All those little details add up on the finished car. It takes a lot of perseverance to take a basket case and turn it into a a car. Especially when you have missing pieces.
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Keep at it when you get the chance. I'm rebuilding the distributor and carburetor right now. Soon I'll be installing the transmission and engine.
It'll be great to see your engine and everything hooked up and ready to run.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53557063460_53d69d1d81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pADX4S)20240224_143723 (https://flic.kr/p/2pADX4S) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Had this part on an old rusty air cleaner can I had. Cleaned it up and was even able to reuse the original band clamp.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53555761537_79ae859012_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAxh3V)20240224_153128 (https://flic.kr/p/2pAxh3V) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53557063945_8bcf2d19bf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pADXde)20240224_153536 (https://flic.kr/p/2pADXde) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53556611556_d722827688_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pABCJq)20240224_154112 (https://flic.kr/p/2pABCJq) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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My motor builder is more about making a motor run and a bit less about the details :sad: I have been trying to get everything tidied up the best I can. I have spent way too long on getting all of the vacuum stuff in place but I think that is behind me for now. He originally just had a single fitting to run the hose to the brake booster. After pulling it out I found it was nothing more than a hardware store air hose fitting :shock: I ordered a carb vac tree from Ames. I found they do not sell the right part for the '79 carb so I had to do a bit of finaggelling to make it work. Still kinda hack and I wasnt happy. SO the search started for the correct part. I found one and ordered it without the hard line, then the next day I found THE right one with the hard line so I picked it up, cleaned and installed. Looks much better than what was on there.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53557066900_c4fdb2559a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pADY6b)20240223_132740 (https://flic.kr/p/2pADY6b) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53557066580_00b7830980_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pADXZE)20240223_135505 (https://flic.kr/p/2pADXZE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Before with the Ames part and then the correct one.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53556954064_ed2f18a6ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pADoxJ)20240223_135538 (https://flic.kr/p/2pADoxJ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53556613336_e57949fbee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pABDg7)20240223_141432 (https://flic.kr/p/2pABDg7) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53556815408_95a4e887a8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pACFk7)20240221_174845 (https://flic.kr/p/2pACFk7) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Had to order a new radiator shroud, will be ready to install this asap.
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Wow.ive got my dash half apart trying to clean up several years of “don’t get it right (pretty)just get it running” wiring I’ve installed for various reasons. Now you’re gonna make me pull my accelerator pedal and paint it while I’m there too lol. Mine looks like your “before” picture.
I like that throttle cable bracket. Simple yet effective and better looking than the universal one I’m using. Say, do you have an original style on your 77? I’d love to see a pic if so.
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It's looking great.
Are those Ames striped hoses?
I just got the rest of my order from them on their hoses.
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Yes, they did come from Ames. At first I thought they were a bit pricey, but I got some regular black only hoses at napa and they were of a different quality. Supposedly the same size but the napa stuff was a bit bigger, both inside and outside diameter. The napa stuff was about a $1 ft. less. I went to autozone and their hose was a bit closer in size but had made in china printed all over it. I needed a piece for the fuel line return to the canister so I used a scotch bright pad to erase the lettering.
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Kerry, I was hoping to see a huge update but I guess some progress is better than no progress.
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Unfortunately. It seems that for every step I take forward there are a couple back. I went to hook up the clutch linkage and the rod that pushes on the fork was a bit worn out from years of use. The reality is that it would probably hold up for another 40 years but I could not with a good conscience install it. SO, order some more parts :shock: :shock: It came in fri. but I had to work yesterday so havent had any shop time.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53565731296_6722caf98e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBqnHj)20240303_142240 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBqnHj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53565733121_5f1eafd49a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBqofM)20240303_150313 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBqofM) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53565917663_79a969f239_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBrk7x)20240303_144218 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBrk7x) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53564874897_66911876a8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBkZ8P)20240303_144949 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBkZ8P) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53566164065_6caff88f55_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBsAmR)20240303_130708 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBsAmR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53566164315_3aacffa632_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBsAra)20240303_131033 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBsAra) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53565759766_f6347d8dda_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pBqwbb)20240303_152925 (https://flic.kr/p/2pBqwbb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Although I am a bit under the weather today, I got a little bit accomplished. Radiator in and hooked up, Was gonna hook up the clutch linkage but ran into a small problem getting the ball installed into the engine block. Not enough room for a full size wrench so I will hit HF tomorrow and pick up a shorty. I think I can get it screwed in all the way with that. I dont want to be the boy that cried wolf but I think I am a battery and a radiator fill away from finally getting this beast fired up.
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Great pics. I'm not too far behind. Close to getting the motor/tranny installed.
Do you have your exhaust ready? Or are you taking it to someone for the exhaust?
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I picked up the pypes system last summer at the camaro nationals. It saved a ton on shipping. I do need to get the down pipes and the splitters. I have been tossing this back and forth. On one side I figure what the heck, but on the other hand there is an exhaust shop in my town that can have it done in a day, maybe 2 if they run into trouble with parts. I might spend weeks doing it myself so...............
My only other exhaust experience was when I had my 85 trans am. I put an SLP exhaust on it eliminating the cat. It took ALL day sat and most of sunday to get the old one off. Then it took me about a half hour to put the new one on. It was a very frustrating experience but the biggest part of that problem was the car was not high enough off of the ground.
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I found my pypes system was fairly easy to install but, the hangers they supplied we barely adequate. If I had to do it again I would get some oe type hangers with the rubber isolaters and the bar you weld to the pipe that pops in. Or have a professional shop do it.
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The problem I had with the settup I bought for my 77 was they sent the wrong mufflers. I dont remember the details now but I needed something like centre in flow and offset out flow and what they gave me was the opposite. The installer tried and tried but could not get them right. I contacted summit (where I bought it) and they said since it was sold as a complete system I had to send the entire thing back for an exchange! By that time he had half installed :shock: I was kinda upset they would not just exchange the mufflers. So I ended up buying an additional set. I hope theyre right this time around. I have the dual settup on my 77 with an auto trans. The pypes guy I talked to at Carlisle said that the transverse muffler actually puts out a bit more hp so I had made up my mind that I was going that way. Wanted to see the performance difference between the 2 cars. BUT the tenth came with a dual muffler settup so I figured on sticking with that. Its already modified so for authenticity it doesnt make sense but I figured what the hey.
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Had a bit of a lull yesterday, I was able to squeeze in a little shop time. Got the clutch z bar linkage hooked up, and most of the reverse lock out hooked up. I say most as I need to attach the rod at the steering column. I tried installing the column but like everything else that is 1 step forward and 1 back I lost the bolts or maybe never had them for the steering column. I will stick with the latter as the column was loose and not installed when I bought the car. So I got it pretty much in place will need to pick up some fasteners today. On my way back from a job I stopped at Azone and picked up coolant, dot 3, steering fluid and a battery. $300 :shock: later I should be really close to a start up now.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53588331633_80db4396c5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pDqd1i)20240314_165818 (https://flic.kr/p/2pDqd1i) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Steering column installed. First time in who knows how long this has been in place. It was out when I bought the car.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53587251372_e55d548056_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pDjET7)20240314_171043 (https://flic.kr/p/2pDjET7) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Did a quick battery hookup just because, and LET THERE BE LIGHT! Footwell light works anyway.
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Dash an column look great! Getting close!
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All fluids in and check, did a test and the motor fired off! Not running as I do not have gas in at this time. BUT it did turn over :grin: Kind of appropriate as the build date of this car is the 4th week of March. Happy Birthday!!
Yesterday was my grandsons b day so he officially made the cars build day the same. Need to work out a couple of bugs and it should be good to go. Getting excited about getting this thing put back together.
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Fuel in the tank, Car is Running!!
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Congrats Kerry!! Sounds amazing!!
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Hallelujah!
As I come up on my 4th year as a TAC member I give thanks to a Handful of loyal TAC posters with incredible talent, knowledge and perseverance. These individuals keep this site interesting and without them I don’t think there would be TAC. Congratulations Kerry you are at or near the top of this list. You and other loyal TAC members give others the incentive to those who have been working on projects for years to hang in there. I’ve watched your project since I first joined and can only recall you making only one minor mistake. You told your engine builder you weren’t in a hurry to get your engine done😂.
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Video or it didn't happen. 😀
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Not sure how to post a video on here. If it has to go through u tube I am lost, maybe my grandson can help me, LOL.
I have a leak at the water neck/thermostat housing. I had to remove it and re-install as the builder put it in the wrong direction. I reused the gasket, hope that is the problem. Picked up a new one today, gonna re-install a bit later. I only ran the motor for about 10 seconds with the leak. BUT, that is the only thing I saw. I was worried about the fuel lines as them as well as the tank are all new. Put some gas in it and let it sit for a half hr or so before I hit the switch. No leaks at all which was a bit of encouragement.
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That first start can always try your nerves.
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I remember the joy I had when I fired my LS off for the first time. It was a great feeling to give life to a car that hasn't seen life for 20+ years. It's pretty exciting! I can post your video here if you want. I'd have to load it to my YouTube page first though.
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Yes Luke, by all means do so. Thanks.
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I don't know any other way than the link below.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ejwP4xQ4KLI
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53630365971_b66bf507ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pH8Dmg)20240331_123213 (https://flic.kr/p/2pH8Dmg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53630365991_0ab18d69e1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pH8DmB)20240331_190911 (https://flic.kr/p/2pH8DmB) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Couple of small items taken care of. Reverse lockout linkage rod cleaned up, repainted ready for a re-install.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53630573713_e257cb239f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pH9H72)20240331_123434 (https://flic.kr/p/2pH9H72) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Part no. for those that like that kind of stuff.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53630574423_da30f5b196_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pH9Hjg)20240403_183420 (https://flic.kr/p/2pH9Hjg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53630366656_0435a62717_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pH8Dy5)20240403_185352 (https://flic.kr/p/2pH8Dy5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Digging a seat out of the pile for a temp. I found a pair of downpipes. These are pypes parts left over from my 77 build. I had these in my cart and was about to pull the trigger for a new pair so it was lucky I found what I did not know I even had! Not sure why they were spare the first time around but I didnt do the exhaust so........ Hoping they will fit ok. They were victims of my barn fire, although they didnt get any heat they were smoked up pretty bad. I hit them with the rolock to clean up a bit. I know they will turn and be ugly with a bit of heat but I just cant install something that looks bad to begin with :shock:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53631420503_f824d06f96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pHe3PR)20240403_180845 (https://flic.kr/p/2pHe3PR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I had a leak at the water neck. Bought a new gasket, drained the radiator last night and was going to change it out. Taking the cap off I began wondering at what position the Tstat should be in. Above or below the gasket? Well, once I took the old gasket off I saw the recess in the manifold for the stat to recess into and viola! :shock: No wonder it leaked and Im surprised it didnt leak worse than it did. Buttoned back up, need to get some more water and anti freeze today then another fire up to see if the problem is solved.
In my defense :? my builder had the water neck installed when I got the motor back. However it was in the wrong position and there was no thermostat installed. He did have the gasket installed. I took the neck off, painted put the stat in and re-installed. I used the gasket in place the reason I didnt see the recess the first time around. First time I had put one of these in, I know better now!
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Fired off the motor and it ran fine for a few minutes. No leaks :grin:
Next big thing on the list is exhaust. I bought a pypes kit from fbird central (they had the best price) and picked it up at the camaro nationals in PA last July. Funny thing is, I ordered it in April of last year and figured by July I would be waiting on it :lol: :lol:
Before the exhaust, I need to put the drive shaft in. New U joints, no problem. Or so I thought. I dont have a press and theres no way I can get the old ones out, so off to the shop.
THEN, I moved the car around a bit to clean up the stay dry I had put down to absorb the leak I had. One pile was soaked still which was a bit of a curiosity to me? After a quick sweep up, :shock: DRIP on the floor. Heater core is bad. New one will be here on thursday. Not looking forward to that but better to come apart now than after the interior is in.
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For the U-joints........you don't need a press.
All you need is a torch, a vice (or something to hold the drive shaft), hammer, pliers and a socket.
There is a plastic ring inside that you melt out. It will come out the small holes on the lobes. Then use a hammer and socket to knock out the U-joint ends.
The plastic inside is a bluish color. You can see in the second pic it is starting to push out. In the third pic the plastic is almost completely removed. Do this to all for ends of the u-joint.
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Looks just like mine :cool: I did that and the wax flowed out once it hit temp. I took a socket just under the size of the cap and hit it a few times. That thing was stuck about as stuck as it could be. I didnt want to beat on it too heavily. Hence I figured a press may push it out easier. Havent had a chance to run it over to the shop today. I called and she said that she would be glad to take care of it for me. If I dont get there tonight I will drop it off on my way to work tomorrow.
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Some of them caps get really stuck. I had to press mine out as well. Even after heat it still sounded like a gunshot when it finally broke free with my press.
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I have replaced hundreds of U-joints using a large bench vise and a ball peen hammer. The attached video is not of me, but this is very close to my method and this video explains and shows it far better than I could. Regarding the GM drive shafts with a plastic retainer, I would use an acetylene torch and beat on the drive shaft ears while it is still hot. It usually wouldn't take more than one or two hits with a ball peen to knock the cap free. Do not hit the hollow tube of the drive shaft with a hammer. Do not clamp the drive shaft tube with the vice. If you are not accurate with swinging a hammer, this method may not be for you. You can easily use the bench vise to press in the new U-joint. When properly installed there should not be any binding of the new U-joint.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXWLl6ADJFA
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Just to add.... I have in recent years started using my ball joint press to remove them. I get it set up snug with a wrench and then smack the threaded part with a mallet and that usually breaks them lose and then just push them out with by turning the screw. But, you'd have to have the ball joint press. But after owning my car for over 25 years, I have needed to replace a few ball joints so I own the press....
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Im not much of a mechanic but after 45+ years I can def. swing a hammer pretty good :lol:
But in my case, off to the shop with this stupid thing.
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Getting closer!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53642320391_4852841b96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJbUYX)20240406_172628 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJbUYX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53642764109_8980478c02_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJebTg)20240409_083102 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJebTg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53642427091_a7b0e16c80_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJcsGB)20240409_083058 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJcsGB) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53642320466_57466afa27_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJbV1f)20240409_083052 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJbV1f) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
A very simple cleanup. Seat track before and after a 24hr bath in evaporust. Still needs a bit of cleanup but overall not too bad. The side with the adjuster has a broken foot but I have another set that is pretty good. Not worth getting the welder out at this point.
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Just to add.... I have in recent years started using my ball joint press to remove them. I get it set up snug with a wrench and then smack the threaded part with a mallet and that usually breaks them lose and then just push them out with by turning the screw. But, you'd have to have the ball joint press. But after owning my car for over 25 years, I have needed to replace a few ball joints so I own the press....
I am not saying the vice and hammer method is the best or most desirable way to replace U-joints. Just an inexpensive alternative if you don't have a press. Today you can purchase a decent hydraulic press from Harbor Freight for a couple hundred dollars and well worth the price after you use it a few times. I also am not suggesting anything about anyone's ability to use a hammer or vice. I was just trying to point how easy it is to damage a drive shaft if you are not careful.
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I almost bought a press at HF last summer. Was in the store and all but pulled the ticket. But I chickened out. I really would like to have one and am sure once I do get it I will find many uses, but my shop is just about packed with stuff right now I dont know where I would put it?
Took the heater box out tonight. Wasnt too bad, as long as I remember how to re-install :shock:
It was a blessing in disguise as the inside was home to the traveling rodents at some point. It was pretty messy, grimy and rusty. Got everything cleaned up, some repainting done and some re-assembly. Waiting on some paint to dry and the core to get here. Hope to have everything back in place over the weekend.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53643956590_a7574630ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJkinh)20240409_164312 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJkinh) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53643835599_f7426ab980_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJjFpe)20240409_165226 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJjFpe) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53643835764_8224602666_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJjFs5)20240409_165235 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJjFs5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53643836674_ece702cdeb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJjFHL)20240409_172515 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJjFHL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53643957755_1a09382996_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJkiHn)20240409_180316 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJkiHn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53643708693_896605b736_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJj2Fc)20240409_182020 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJj2Fc) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I can only imagine the fragrance that would come out of the heater vents with all that rodent debris. The RoadKing Restoration of the heater looks like new.
Another step closer to having your TATA rolling down the road!
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At first glance I thought those were baby chicks in there. Haha.
Definitely better to do it now... I changed mine when I had my car apart because I know these cars and they go bad and a pain to do once the fenders and inner fenders are on.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53647670938_27484d7e52_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEkvL)20240409_170312 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEkvL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53647670278_f001f1db82_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEkjo)20240411_101550 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEkjo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53647670148_28bcbea2f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEkh9)20240411_101554 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEkh9) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53646580942_4791af80c4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJyKuJ)20240411_132146 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJyKuJ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Heater door cleaned up and painted. New heater core beside old one.
New heater core:
Ames - $130
NPD - $100
Napa - $60
Local Napa store did not have it so I ordered it online, got here this morning.
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Nice work. Is that heater core copper just painted silver?
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53648590516_d5d331c336_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJK3Sy)20240411_200634 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJK3Sy) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53647715762_e770a6cb89_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEyQA)20240411_200310 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJEyQA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53649053280_1279ae67cd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJMqrf)20240411_200228 (https://flic.kr/p/2pJMqrf) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Heater box is finished! Metal was derusted with a combination of roloc, and evaporust, then hit with silver paint. I cleaned all of the hard plastic with simple green. That did a great job. I did a thorough read of my service manual and have a pretty good idea on how all of this is supposed to work as far as which door opens when and what makes which door open. The under dash was pretty nasty underneath all of this so I will clean and organize that mess before I install. Prob will keep me busy for a couple of hours this weekend.
The new heater core is aluminum. Not sure how that translates to efficiency over the copper but Im not worried about it. The core itself side by side the original looks very good. And the money I saved can go towards something else (seats?)
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Wow, you do such a nice job on your restorations! Everything looks fantastic, keep up the good work.
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Looks great! I wonder which is better? I really don't know. I found a copper one from somewhere as I was afraid to try the aluminum. The copper one was in the car so that's what I put back (as I didn't want to have to do it aging on my lifetime). They make aluminum radiators so they have to be good, right? This is purely a thought I ponder not a bash on you putting in an aluminum unit.
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Heater box looks better than new. One less thing to worry about!
Regarding what material is better or best, I don’t know! I actually thought they used to use copper tubes and brass fins. I do know all modern high efficiency radiators are made of aluminum. I have heard it could be cost factor but also that long life antifreeze doesn’t like copper. Forever AC evaporators and condenser coils have been made out of aluminum.
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I don't know about aftermarket unit, but original heater core has copper core and the rest is brass.
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The one I took out was copper. In all fairness I think the $130 part from Ames is said to be copper. My car doesnt get that much use in the winter so honestly I could care less if the heat is efficient or not. It doesnt even work in my black car and I have gotten along just fine. I had the same thought regarding the fact that radiators are aluminum but then I wondered is that because there is more heat loss to make it more effective! Not what you would really want for a heater core. In the end, its still the same hot water flowing through, with the air moving across the fins so I cant see it making any difference. No one will ever be seeing it so Im not afraid to loose a point in judging :grin:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53687093340_b05a0d5bdf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN9oqm)20240425_141626 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN9oqm) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Under dash duct had a hole in it patched up with duct tape. I had a few free minutes so I figured I would try to fix rather than get a new one (I looked on Franks website and they have nothing currently). I thought I had a full set of duct work but after a search around the shop I came up empty. Fortunately the pieces broke off fell inside the part so I was able to patch it back together and then I fibreglassed over. It was kind of messy, so I followed up with some flex filler, then fillable primer from Rustoleum, then some rustoleum satin black. I then used SEM clear satin on top. I was surprised the SEM didnt react with the Rustoleum. Its not perfect but once its tucked up under the dash I think it will be fine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53686860063_b629e7ce7a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN8c5k)20240427_121156 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN8c5k) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53686637866_2afcd593da_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN742m)20240427_140929 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN742m) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53686637866_2afcd593da_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN742m)20240427_140929 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN742m) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53687092485_0107b33dc7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN9oaB)20240428_173138 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN9oaB) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53686860658_2ef60b1f85_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN8cfA)20240427_165641 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN8cfA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Next up is brakes. Bench bled the master, got things hooked up and started with the fronts. No problem. Then it came to the rears :shock: Slight hiccup, once thats figured out I will post my findings.
So in the meantime it was time to take a break
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53686641021_e4dc94fab0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN74XK)20240428_173714 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN74XK) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53686638976_6b900e48e3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pN74mu)20240428_172637 (https://flic.kr/p/2pN74mu) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Burn up some sticks from the back yard and cook some smores with the grandson.
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Great work Kerry, keep it up. Love camp fires!
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Lookin good!
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Nice job on the AC duct. It should be good for another 45 years, maybe more.
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Awesome job on the heater duct repair. The whole project looks to be coming out great!
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Congrats on all the progress. You're practically finished! ;-)
This TATA is going to be a beaut! Sounds sweet too.
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I knew after waiting for a gazillion years to have my motor rebuilt I should have named this car 'Patience'. But Im not one of thos that name cars. Now I am reconsidering :shock: Or maybe just PIA
Front brakes all fine. I could not get a vacuum on the back to save my life. After a few unsuccessful tries I decided to check that my fittings were tight. I DID NOT HAVE THE MAIN LINE HOOKED UP TO THE SPLITTER AT THE REAR END :shock: :sad: :mad:
So, hook that up and still no vac. Trip 2 lets look at the fittings again. The line input to the caliper was nice and tight, however the line moved freely in and out of the caliper, like it was missing a stop/washer ferule or something? With some advice and looking around I could not figure how to remedy the situation without a complete hodge podge. I called FbirdCentral where I bought the calipers (years ago now) and found they are for someone doing a disc brake swap onto a drum car. The fitting is accomplished with a banjo bolt and flex line much like the fronts. Rather than going through a bunch to make things jive, I found a set of rebuilt original calipers and placed an order. Hope they work!
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Rear Brake saga continues. I got a set of 'rebuilt' calipers (not cheap) but they are basically the same thing as I bought from firebird central. They are NOT originals rebuilt but a replacement. I still have the same problem, getting the line attached to the caliper itself. After getting some pictures in another thread from a kind member here I can finally see the problem. There is as described in the service manual a 'block' that attaches to the caliper with a banjo bolt that the brake line threads into. THIS is the part I am missing. SO, I started to think about it and I can vividly remember tearing my original caliper apart and refinishing it, I even bought a rebuild kit. I found the rebuild kit but no idea where the caliper is after an exhaustive search. I figure, 'hey, I might have made a post about rebuilding the caliper :???:'. I went back to page one of this thread and BAZINGA, right there on page 2, dated June 16, 2021 is pictures of the rear caliper before and after a cleanup. NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS TEAR MY SHOP APART TO FIND IT. I never throw any car part away, I cant imagine I would have gotten rid of this.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53706300216_4271ed08ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pPQPXo)20240507_174435 (https://flic.kr/p/2pPQPXo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
After digging through every box I had in the shop, and thats a lot :shock: I had given up. I knew I did not throw them away but got to the point that there was nowhere else I would have put them. THEN, I saw my flare kit peeking out on the corner of the shelf. I wondered, is there a chance................? I have looked over that spot multiple times during my search as I KNEW the only thing there was my plumbing and electrical tool kits. However with all other spots coming up empty and nothing to loose there IT WAS :grin:
Got the block off, and of course the fitting on my brake line was not compatible. Luckily I had one in my pile of parts, got the flare kit out and new end put on. Got everything hooked back up on the car, gave the bleeder a few minutes of pumping with my vac tool but wore my hand out (minor case of arthritis) so I will get some help today to do some pushing on the brake pedal. Hopefully that will be quicker and easier.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53706509143_50c3cb367e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pPRU4z)20240507_174657 (https://flic.kr/p/2pPRU4z) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53706734625_5208682753_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pPT46c)20240507_182012 (https://flic.kr/p/2pPT46c) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53706508418_59bcfc5ccd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pPRTR5)20240507_182059 (https://flic.kr/p/2pPRTR5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53706734320_d094c4621f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pPT3ZW)20240507_182203 (https://flic.kr/p/2pPT3ZW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Nicely done Kerry, I knew you would find them. In your quest for the calipers did you find anything you weren't looking for? Gold nuggets or a valuable baseball card? It seems whenever I am searching for something, I find everything but what I am looking for.
You are getting close to having a driver. Many years ago, when I was doing my 19975 TA, I slowly drove it up and down the alley without doors, hood or a front clip. All it proved was it could move and stop, but I was excited anyway.
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I did find a lot of stuff I either forgot or didnt know I had. When I bought this car it was literally packed full of boxes of trans am parts. I was joking with my son the other day that I should get a spot at Carlisle and sell it off. I found a lot of fasteners I did not know I had, some of the small parts I will be needing soon as well. I organized a bit, and took the stuff I think I may need and put it in one box. I am not a seller, but I really should do something with all I have. Once the 79 is finished I may do a purge.
As for driving, I have 2 sets of seats (did I mention the car came with a lot of extras :shock:) and I put a black hobnail in there temp. The TATA seats are shredded wheat, not toast. Once I get the brakes straightened out I hope to put the front sheet metal back on. At that point hopefully it will be a short time before I can take a spin around the block. I have all of the interior except the seat covers. For the last couple of years I have been waiting on Legendary to have a sale. Its about to the point that I need to pull the plug and get them ordered. It should be the last big expense to get this car finished. When I did my 77 it was 99% finished before I put it on the road. With this one as soon as I am at a point that I can get it insured I will get the tags.
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I'm glad you're not losing it. Every time I search for something I know I had, I begin to think I'm going crazy and I sold it, gave it to someone or loaned it out. It really messes with my head.
I have the same flare tool, but I haven't used it yet. I hear they are pretty cool.
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Yes I was beginning to wonder if I had given/sold them to someone. The flare tool works pretty well. This line was stainless so it took a bit more muscle, bends like a breeze with the nicop.
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Got a little more done over the weekend. I had a few loose bolts from the install so I went back and made sure everything was socked down good and tight. I got a new pair of 'correct' battery cables and got those installed.I got a new pair of 'correct' battery cables and got those installed. I was going to get those from napa but they have let me down with parts as of late so I chickened out and spent the big bucks :sad: I think at this point all of the electrical connections are done :? I am getting a grasp on the vacuum crap. Still looking for a few parts for that. Fuel lines hooked up. Refinished the gas pedal and got a new cable installed. Need to place another order for some more parts, probably wont be in until the end of the week. I am planning on going to the AACA convention towards the end of the week so I wont get much accomplished.
The positive battery cable should be the same for 78-79....#8097031. Is the negative the same for the 78-79? Do you have a part # for the negative cable?
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Let me check on the cables, I will get back to you. I bought them from Firebird Central if that helps. They were about twice the price of NAPA but I wanted to make sure they were correct.
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No hurries....And thanks for checking.
I have a NOS positive cable.
The negative cable from Firebird Central has the # 12000152 FL code. Just making sure that is the correct one.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53735493310_02bd7bef9a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pSqs3A)34382 (https://flic.kr/p/2pSqs3A) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
This is my neg. bat cable and the marking. I got it from Firebird Central.
I have been struggling both physically and mentally with my brakes. After exhaustive searching I finally found the correct banjo bolts from an online supplier of brake fittings. These parts replaced the brass block that is on the stock brakes. Unfortunately the fitting I had on the hard line I had already installed in the car was not correct. So, I had to take that off and put a new fitting on. THEN, the fitting that came with the new banjo bolt was correct in thread, but it was too long on the end with no threading. There was not enough to seat into the banjo bolt. So, back to cutting the tubing and putting a correct fitting on. After changing the line twice, and replacing the fittings a couple of times I finally got it!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53734145102_f0b76b087b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pSixgC)20240507_182203 (https://flic.kr/p/2pSixgC) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Original brass block for brake fitting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53734147942_67ae65510c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pSiy7A)20240515_173116 (https://flic.kr/p/2pSiy7A) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New banjo bolts I bought online.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53735076506_2dd7f386e0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pSoj9j)20240518_121532 (https://flic.kr/p/2pSoj9j) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Fitting that came with banjo bolt. After I installed I found there wasnt enough thread to grab the fitting.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53735409869_15cc216766_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pSq2eX)20240518_121623 (https://flic.kr/p/2pSq2eX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New fitting installed. This one worked.
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At this point I am very tempted to put the front sheet metal on. But, I think I will get the underneath stuff finished first. I had my shop put the u joints in my prop shaft and its ready to go. I put the front back on my cribbing to get some underneath clearance and will do the rear once I know the brake lines are not leaking anywhere. Underneath stuff that needs to be completed is the prop shaft, the exhaust and the parking brake. I am still debating whether to get sub frame connectors. My 77 does not have them and creaks and rattles worse than my knees in the morning. Not sure if they would help that situation. I figure as long as I have this one up on blocks it would be easy enough to install. I think at that point I can set the car back down. I am pretty sure I am going to get a new ac compressor and I would like to get all of that hooked up before the front end goes back. I have most of the stuff to finish so its just a matter of me getting out to the shop and putting in some hours.
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Thanks for the negative battery cable information, Kerry.
More money to spend.... :D
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At this point I am very tempted to put the front sheet metal on. But, I think I will get the underneath stuff finished first. I had my shop put the u joints in my prop shaft and its ready to go. I put the front back on my cribbing to get some underneath clearance and will do the rear once I know the brake lines are not leaking anywhere. Underneath stuff that needs to be completed is the prop shaft, the exhaust and the parking brake. I am still debating whether to get sub frame connectors. My 77 does not have them and creaks and rattles worse than my knees in the morning. Not sure if they would help that situation. I figure as long as I have this one up on blocks it would be easy enough to install. I think at that point I can set the car back down. I am pretty sure I am going to get a new ac compressor and I would like to get all of that hooked up before the front end goes back. I have most of the stuff to finish so its just a matter of me getting out to the shop and putting in some hours.
You have been a busy man Kerry, especially fighting your rear disk brake challenges. Glad you can move on to other things. On the bright side you got good use out that fancy flaring tool.
It bugged me having to pay a real muffler shop to finish my exhaust because my over the axel pipes had the wrong radius and just didn’t fit. But, they did a really nice job, so I am happy.
I think you are smart in getting the AC sorted out before bolting the front fenders on. Why risk scratching that beautiful paint anymore than you have to. I would suggest you flush the condenser and evaporator and test for leaks before putting the fenders on so you don’t have to take them off again, especially the evaporator. Probably want to consider replacing the accumulator and rubber hoses too if those parts are original.
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I thought I posted this already buy
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If I had to do it again, I would definitely install the PTFB subframe connectors and solid body mounts. They really stiffed up my car. I would really be interested to see what the ride would be like if I didn't have the GT, Hotkis springs and low pro tires. I think it would be great. (The low pro tires and tighter suspension doesn't soak up the rough roads in my area). Is it bad, no, just a tiny bit rougher but still a pretty great ride.
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Thanks Luke, I am leaning more towards getting the connectors. IF nothing else just because. My black car isnt bad and Im not putting out more than 400hp AND I dont race or even drive crazy. Overall it feels pretty solid. But I have been thinking about them for years and right now is the easiest time to install them on the 79. Just another expense :shock: and more time :shock: :shock:
I really do want to get this car finished sooner than later, I promise.
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Ya, I know. But what are friends for, besides peer pressure?
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I thought about installing the subframe connectors but decided against it. I have never driven or even gone for a ride in a TA with the connectors, so I am looking forward to a comparison.
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May have to wait awhile for my road test :shock: I found out the other day that in order for my Pypes exhaust system to hook up with the correct splitters is another $200. :shock: :shock: Parts ordered, hopefully will be here soon. So the sub frame budget just imploded :sad: I can always add them at a later date easy enough. Maybe we will have our lift by then :-P
I am about an hour away from Pypes and thought about taking off and make an afternoon on Friday to pick them up and take the wife out to dinner for her Bday. However, they had a special and a code which pretty much turned into free shipping, so it would have cost me money to go pick them up by the time I take an afternoon off of work. Being self employed is great and bad at the same time, LOL.
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I haven't checked in for a while Kerry, looks like you are making some good steady progress! Love it.
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Funny thing, I installed my pypes kit and then realized the same thing. I order the parts and never installed them. I still have the elbow hangers and tips in boxes.... you have now reminded me of another project I need to do on my car... Thanks a lot!
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I had the shop install the same exhaust on my 77 so I really didnt know what was needed. I figured at least the last outlet pipe would be ok and only needed the splitters themselves. I did have the extras for the straight pipe in my barn though as leftovers. I finally gave them away a couple of months ago. Looks like I have another set to take their place hanging on the wall!! Just when I thought I was getting rid of some junk it re-materializes :shock: :shock: Maybe Im not a pack rat after all, perhaps I do throw stuff away but it re-appears :?
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Still patiently waiting on parts from Pypes to arrive :shock:
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After a week I gave up waiting so I called Pypes. They informed me the 'offshore' made parts are scheduled to be ready for shipment at the end of this month!! I was dissapointed in a few ways. One, I guess me being naive but I thought they made their stuff. I have been to their place before and thought for sure they did their own production but they said they only do R & D now. Then I was a bit miffed that they took my money and no further information. They could at the very least sent an email saying the parts were on back order. Not very good on the customer service end. I had everything ready to go with the exhaust and prefer to finish one project before I move on to the next, but I suppose I will have to punt and find something else to work on until the exhaust shows up. After all there is plenty to do.
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Depending on the supplier, sometimes customer service is a thing of the past. A couple weeks ago I ordered a new tire for one of my motorcycles, through the internet. As soon as I click the final purchase button I get a message due to Covid, orders typically take four days to process. I figured oh shoot, here we go again. But with ground shipping I had the part in three days. About a month ago I ordered a shock mount for my daughters Mazda from Rock Auto. I placed the order Friday night at 9:00 PM, it was delivered to my house Saturday afternoon, again with ground shipping. So you just never know. I always go with the cheapest shipping. It does seem that when you need or want something quickly it can take forever to arrive. You would think with technology today that any supplier can give you a heads up when a part is not in their warehouse or is on back order.
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Kerry, I found my pypes parts in stock somewhere. I didn't go through them directly. Maybe you could find it in stock somewhere?
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I thought about that Luke. Most places have the tale pipes but I have found no one has the splitters. I still have a place to look though. The other thing is that Pypes sent me email blast for mothers day of all things, and they had a 25. off plus free shipping. With the discounts the sum total was less than buying both parts. IF I go elswhere I will most likely take a 50.-75. hit :shock:
Nothing with this car has been fast (I at least hope the finished car will be,lol) so I figured may as well keep the theme going and be patient :? I do have other things to do, but typically I like to finish one big thing before I move on to the next.
I too will never hit the express shipping. Very few things I order do I need the next day. I did order something recently (cant remember what it was) and they offered free shipping and had 3 day shipping for some stupid amount. I used the free and still got it in 2 days. The other thing that amazes me is my wife will order something on Sat evening and by 7am Sunday its on my porch!
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I bought two box fans yesterday and both were made in the USA, I about fell over.
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We try to be observant with where products are made when we make purchases in our home. I try to avoid China made at all costs.
Still waiting on Pypes :shock: :shock: Had a couple of nice weekends and ended up doing home chores, gardening etc. I was moving along pretty good with the car until I hit the latest roadblock. Kinda takes the wind out of my sails and I lose motivation.
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I was hoping to see more progress but this reminded me of my tail pipes, I have splitters on my 71 which I have on early cars, I bought straight pipes that I should have replaced while the car is at the shop.
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Me too Jack. I was really hoping to have this thing on the road this past spring. I feel like I am so close yet so far. It will almost be a year that I have had my motor back. I was moving along pretty good until the hiccup with the pipes and I am still waiting. Its stinking hot now. By the time I get home from work and take a shower I dont fell like going back into the shop and getting dirty and sweaty again. So I end up sitting around, reading or watching tv completely bored for hours on end. And I keep thinking if I could only get some motivation to get in the shop I could get this thing finished.
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Yeah this weather has been miserable. Not sure where you are but here in NE ohio it's the humidity also thats kicking our butts. I put my papssenger seat in the other day and I looked like I had ran a marathon I was so sweaty.
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North Eastern MD. Right at the top of the Ches Bay. we def get our share of humidity. I am in the category of people when the weather gets really bad for 'those with respiratory problems'. We changed our hrs and I have been working 6 - 2 pm. or less if we finish up early. I am usually soaked after being at work for about 5 minutes. Unfortunately we have all outside work right now, so little relief. I can deal with cold, but not the heat!
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Kerry, summer has just begun and it looks like it’s going to be a brutal one. Yesterday I watched as my next door neighbor had windows installed, the guys looked wilted and wiped out by days end. This last week several neighbors were getting new roofs installed. High temperatures and humidity is a double whammy. I can’t imagine more demanding working conditions. My dad suffered for years with COPD, this kind of weather was very tough on him. Hopefully your clients can show some empathy when it comes to making deadlines and you can make your health a top priority.
On your TATA, I know your patience has been tested with parts availability and slow delivery times. You have come a long way and overcome a lot of challenges with this project. Hang in there!
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We finally just got a break here in NE Ohio. Was waaaay too hot to drive a car without AC. Guess I forget that in the 70s not many cars had ac.
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New problem has popped up! I am tired of waiting on pypes so I figure I would get the last couple of items buttoned up in the engine bay and start to put the sheet metal on, maybe having a car that looks like a car will be enough motivation to get it on the road. Lo and behold stepped out to the shop and there is coolant on the floor again :o :( :x
My first thought was that it was coming out low and the water pump cover was leaking, but then I found there is a leak at the stat housing again. Very frustrating as it has sat for a couple of months now with no problems at all, now this!!!!! I ordered a new front end gasket kit as well as a new gasket for the stat housing. Picked them up last night, maybe this afternoon I will get a chance to swap out the simplest thing, the stat gasket and hope that is what was causing the problem. If thats not it then Im afraid I will have to start tearing things apart. Not what I was expecting or looking forward to.
Have I said before that this car is really testing my patience :shock:
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Ugh, thats annoying. I hate the 2 steps forward and one back
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Do you have to use the gasket? I thought the manual stated not to use a gasket. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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The housing gasket is a common part, and I dont know how it would seal with metal to metal only? So yes I would think it needs a gasket.
I had high hopes that the new gasket would do the trick. When I took the housing off I found a piece of very thin plastic that was still attached to the manifold itself, like a factory protection thing. Why the builder did not take it off is anyones guess?? It had turned to jelly I am assuming once it came into contact with the antifreeze. I was pretty sure that was the reason as there was really no seal between the gasket and the manifold itself. I cleaned everything very well, and put a new gasket on even using a bit of sealant, belt and suspenders kind of thing. I filled the system back up and put a little pressure on it. I started to hear a hiss and saw coolant bubbling out at the back bolt, looks like in the housing itself. I am not sure the housing does not have a microscopic crack. So I ordered a new housing, supposed to be here on tuesday.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53820411093_d5fab58a42_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pZVF9i)20240626_173037 (https://flic.kr/p/2pZVF9i) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Here is the piece of plastic I pulled off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53819246087_d889fb7827_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pZPGPZ)20240626_172911 (https://flic.kr/p/2pZPGPZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
A piece of schmutz I found when I pulled the housing off.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53820604320_97378b32f9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pZWEzN)20240627_170701 (https://flic.kr/p/2pZWEzN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
coolant coming out at back bolt
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If for some reason that doesn’t take care of it, for what it’s worth, I was gifted a chrome water neck with an o-ring. I hadn’t used it for years mainly because I didn’t want the chrome look. Eventually after I tired of seeping, I installed the chrome one with the o-ring. No gasket, no sealant. Not a drop since.
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Ok. Water issue is resolved. Initially the leak came from the joint with the plastic protection from the factory that was errantly left in place. When re-installed and a small bit of pressure there was a hiss and water spray. This time on top of the bolt. I only assumed that it was a microscopic flaw/crack in the housing. So a new housing ordered from napa. Old one removed, opening prepped again, no gasket this time but permatex for water housing. Followed the instructions to the T. Install finger tight, sit for an hour then torque. Sit 24 hrs before adding water and pressure. Coolant installed but no pressure. Looked the next day and WHAM-coolant laying on the manifold :shock: :( :???:
What did I do wrong? SO, back to Autozone for the pressure tester. I figure while there may as well get a couple new hose clamps. The last couple of times I took things apart I kept reusing the tower clamp. I did not have a spare the correct size and they are not available locally. These are supposed to be the original look and I wanted to stay with that.
I added the band clamp and when tightening it down a bit of coolant came out of the hose, BINGO! What I learned, DO NOT REUSE A TOWER CLAMP! Going on 36 hrs and no leak. I am pretty sure its good to go at this point. Now to move on to bigger and better things. STILL waiting on Pypes to deliver the products I ordered in May!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839276633_303babec72_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2Ande)20240703_115252 (https://flic.kr/p/2q2Ande) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839276368_70b8c4b8ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2An8E)20240703_115302 (https://flic.kr/p/2q2An8E) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839276078_b6188b0f5f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2An3E)20240703_120949 (https://flic.kr/p/2q2An3E) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839018271_28302a0669_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2z3pH)20240705_182038 (https://flic.kr/p/2q2z3pH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53839275798_b825d9d16e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q2AmXQ)20240703_121005 (https://flic.kr/p/2q2AmXQ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Ok. Water issue is resolved. Initially the leak came from the joint with the plastic protection from the factory that was errantly left in place. When re-installed and a small bit of pressure there was a hiss and water spray. This time on top of the bolt. I only assumed that it was a microscopic flaw/crack in the housing. So a new housing ordered from napa. Old one removed, opening prepped again, no gasket this time but permatex for water housing. Followed the instructions to the T. Install finger tight, sit for an hour then torque. Sit 24 hrs before adding water and pressure. Coolant installed but no pressure. Looked the next day and WHAM-coolant laying on the manifold :shock: :( :???:
What did I do wrong? SO, back to Autozone for the pressure tester. I figure while there may as well get a couple new hose clamps. The last couple of times I took things apart I kept reusing the tower clamp. I did not have a spare the correct size and they are not available locally. These are supposed to be the original look and I wanted to stay with that.
I added the band clamp and when tightening it down a bit of coolant came out of the hose, BINGO! What I learned, DO NOT REUSE A TOWER CLAMP! Going on 36 hrs and no leak. I am pretty sure its good to go at this point. Now to move on to bigger and better things. STILL waiting on Pypes to deliver the products I ordered in May!!
(https://flic.kr/p/2q2Ande)
Congratulations on putting this one to rest, I know you were getting frustrated, who wouldn’t be!
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One add on, I went back to check on things and there was more liquid on the floor :shock: I felt around the hose at the lower water pump housing and it was leaking as well. Also, the hose at the bottom of the radiator was leaking. I replaced the clamp at the housing and then ran out of new clamps :???: But I will get a couple more and replace all of the tower clamps. They are junk IMO.
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My father-in-law used a Lubelocker gasket for his thermostat and has had it off 4-5 times with no leaking issues. FWIW. Looking great Kerry, glad the motor is running!
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A week on and nothing leaking. And my parts came in from Pypes yesterday. Now I have no excuse but to move forward.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53853002004_910d629f73_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q3NHhy)20240712_165916 (https://flic.kr/p/2q3NHhy) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53854990140_f43c2156b6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q3YUhL)20240713_164047 (https://flic.kr/p/2q3YUhL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53854559921_698d97f0d8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q3WGpc)20240713_170216 (https://flic.kr/p/2q3WGpc) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Moving forward. Had to take parts outside to wash the years of shop dirt off! Got the inners installed, pass side fender loosely installed. Will hit the dr. side today.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53853002219_3755b1b753_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q3NHmg)20240712_161743 (https://flic.kr/p/2q3NHmg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53852900748_b66ea77219_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q3NcbL)20240712_161526 (https://flic.kr/p/2q3NcbL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Exhaust cut to fit. Roughly in place. I needed a bit of help so I left this as is for now. I dont like to start multiple projects but figured the worst was behind me in just getting this much done.
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Nice progress, Kerry. Are you going to weld any sections of the exhaust? I bought extra clamps but I'm going to weld some of the sections when I get to that point.
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Kerry, nice looking exhaust with smooth bends. You might not care but it has to give you a HP boost over the catalytic equipped system with smaller pipes the car came with. I imagine it will sound a lot better too.
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Great progress Kerry!
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Looks fantastic!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53869865728_1420f6394f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q5i9hq)20240720_170159 (https://flic.kr/p/2q5i9hq) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Got the dr side cleaned up and installed. I need some help to set the hood in place so I can get the alignment pretty close before I put the nose on. The pass side fender is aligned very nicely, I give it a 9/10. The dr fender could use some work, it looks pretty good and I can live with it but I would say its a 8/10 at best. I think the only way to make it better would be to raise the door a bit but all of the other gaps on the door look so nice I dont really want to mess with it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53869446596_b5c4f7139c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q5fZG1)20240718_133216 (https://flic.kr/p/2q5fZG1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53869795194_4abb8aebe3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q5hMjj)20240718_133415 (https://flic.kr/p/2q5hMjj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53868538202_36727e2bd2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q5bkE3)20240718_133358 (https://flic.kr/p/2q5bkE3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I did a favor for a buddy of mine a few years ago and he sent me this NOS antennae. Its just about too nice to use, but I have exhausted my search for a replacement that will look the same so I suppose I will get it bolted in place.
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Dang, that NOS antenna is awesome!
Hey, I reposted the video of the low mileage pace car that TTA performance "Joe" is getting ready for BAT. It's pretty cool to see the tags and the blue nuts that signify metric. Also tye actual spitter angles. Might be something you want to check out. I posted it on the special model thread.
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Amazing how much a core support and front fenders can totally change the look of your TATA. Antenna is way too nice to leave in the box. It belongs on your car. After years of hard work, finally seeing it come together has to be exciting!
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Great progress, really dislike those gremlins when they creep in, good to see you figured out it was clamp.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53876850293_7cf8836630_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q5UWxX)20240723_103514 (https://flic.kr/p/2q5UWxX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Set the hood in place today to check the alignment of the fenders. All looked really good. I just needed to move the front edge near the bumper in just a bit. I have 2 hoods to choose from in my shop. I was looking for awhile for a good one to use but gave up after not being able to find something decent. I really dont want to buy a repro as I have heard good and bad and dont want to end up with a bad one. I have decided to use the black hood. They both need about the same amount of work and I have been wanting to keep the TATA hood for wall art. It is not original to the car or I probably would use it. The black one came with the car when I got it. One of the original pieces that was missing.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53879039913_f8917fa10c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q67as2)20240724_143217 (https://flic.kr/p/2q67as2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53879298844_4694bc6736_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q68uqm)20240724_152415 (https://flic.kr/p/2q68uqm) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53879194388_1fe1b6100e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q67Xno)20240724_155307 (https://flic.kr/p/2q67Xno) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Bit more done. I have a few minor details to take care of then the nose can be bolted into place.
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I am excited for you Kerry!
Back in early 2020 when I first joined TAC, you were one of the first to welcome me to the group. I didn’t know you were working on restoring your second TATA because the first was lost in a fire. I have watched you work on everything in the restoration and admired how you could take a junk old part and make it like new or better. I along with others watched painfully for years as you waited for the builder of your engine to finally deliver. I know in detail how you fought challenges in putting your car back together, harder because you started with a basket case, literally and had to scrounge for a lot of money parts. Yesterday I found out you did the body and paint work on your TA, not a simple paint job by any means. You are part of a small group of prolific posters that keep TAC going and interesting. Hopefully inspiring others not to give up on their project and bringing a car back to life.
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Can't wait to see it together!!!!
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Thank you for the kind words. And to quote my favorite band "What a long strange trip its been". My patience have definitely been tested during this ordeal. The funny thing is, when I got this car it was pretty much rust free, seemed to be complete other than the motor being dismantled and I figured a quick paint job, throw an interior in place. By that time the guy would have my motor finished then put it up for sale. I was planning on this to take place over a long winter :shock: HA, How naive I was, AND I have restored a Trans Am before so I knew what I was up against. During the process I met a guy with whom we have become good friends that was also restoring a '79 trans am, but his is the opposite of mine being a stripped down hardtop model. He goes above and beyond with his restorations and seeing him chasing down 'that exact part' inspired me. So I fell down the rabbit hole and several years later here I am.
I will also add, to quote Sheriff Justice, 'There is no way, no how" I would have ever gotten my motor finished and running without all of the ancillary support that I received from Larry (aka 5th ta). Both in parts, text support and multiple calls on my part with more than silly questions that I did not have the answer to.
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Definitely an adventure Kerry, I fell down that rabbit hole as well. "If I'm going to do X then I should do Y and Z as well". You'll be very happy though in the end. Looking forward to seeing it move out of the garage on its own power. Definitely a trophy winner!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53887890054_30b1305b33_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6TwhE)20240726_113213 (https://flic.kr/p/2q6TwhE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Heres the backside of my nose piece. Not sure if I posted it before (years ago)when I restored it. Everything was new and refurbished. I forget now but I counted the pieces and it was in the hundreds!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53887784368_1e3048a477_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6SYSu)20240728_132728 (https://flic.kr/p/2q6SYSu) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I realized that I put the stripes on the front flares wrong so here they are done correctly. I forgot that they went across the front of the car as well. I will do the centre section once its installed.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53886201627_d00a602a5c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6JSnR)20240728_144221 (https://flic.kr/p/2q6JSnR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53886201217_b9d96a3c99_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6JSfM)20240728_144318 (https://flic.kr/p/2q6JSfM) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53887114036_175c0fcfe9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q6PxB3)20240728_144210 (https://flic.kr/p/2q6PxB3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Nose is bolted back into place for the first time in many years. I was surprised at how well everything lined up. The pic's show it right after I installed and all of the bolts were still loose. Its a bit tighter now with the bolts all socked down.
Gonna go backwards now and start the body work on the hood.
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Looking awesome!!!!
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Wow! That car is beautiful! That engine compartment! I zoomed in but how well did you get tye wheel flairs to fit?
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Luke, I have several pair of flares. I used the best ones for this but that was based on condition and not fit. I should have test fit first. The pass side fits really nice. The driver side is good and passable. When I bolted it in place to the fender the fit was perfect, when I 'pulled' it around to put the sheet metal screws in the inside edge of the fender well it tweaked a bit and came of the body slightly. Im not sure if its the right way to fix the issue but I used some 3m double sided all weather tape and put a piece on the edge that was lifting. That seemed to work about 85%. It looks much better than without but still not 100%. I figured a lot of emblems and side trim ect were installed with double side tape so im not too worried about that trick. IF it should create a problem hopefully it will be long enough down the road that I wont have to deal with it.
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Looks great Kerry! I thought that you still had to paint this car, but it looks like you could throw the hood on and take it for a drive.
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Ryan, with my 77 it was 100% complete before I put it on the road. This one is going to be different (I hope!). Realistically it is roadworthy now. Well, almost I have to hook up the parking brake, and finish the exhaust. But really other than that I could drive it down the street. I have a temp. seat in place. But in all likely hood it will be a couple of months before it hits the pavement. I need new tires as well. I do have a few sets of wheels so thats not really stopping anything as I can get the right ones restored and still be able to drive the car. I am hoping I can get insurance on it soon so I can put the tags on the car. I have most of the stuff for the interior. The body work is completed and car is painted. The only thing not finished is the hood. But I have one I could use if need be.
I started the other night stripping the hood I plan on using. For anyone that is afraid to buff a car and burn through the paint, let those worries be squashed. I used my ro electric sander with 60 grit. I figured it would knock the paint off in a few swipes. I worked my butt off for about a half hour and got about a square foot done. That old paint is TOUGH! I started to second guess myself and am now thinking I may roll the dice and get a repro hood. I will be many, MANY hours ahead of the game in prep work.
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Congratulations Kerry on getting to hood refinishing.
Back when I did my 1975 TA, I foolishly thought it would be a good idea to refinish the underside of the hood so it would look nice like the top side. The foolish part was I used a sand blaster that nicely cleaned the underside, but at the same time stretched the sheet metal. So when I painted the hood I could clearly see the outline of the support metal. Not ever claiming to be a body or paint man I talked to a good friend who owned a body shop. He explained that the sand blasting stretched the hood skin and my hood was now junk. He went on to say that even when sanding a hood with a DA you have to be very carful not to get the metal hot or it will warp. My hood was ruined, but he said I should have used chemical stripper. The stripper is not inexpensive but will reduce amount of time sanding considerably. You still will probably have to use some 600 grit paper and be careful not to get the stripper in the seams around the edge and use caution when sanding so the metal doesn’t get too warm.
In 1980 I was fortunate to get a brand new Pontiac hood for $75.00 and it fit fine. I have no idea how good the repo hoods are today.
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Heat is my biggest concern using my ro sander. The hood already needs some work and I dont want to add to the damage :shock:
I have heard good and bad about repro hoods. I would hate to get a bad one then get stuck with return shipping costs. I am going to look for some paint stripper discs and see if they work. I have used chemicals also and may go that route as well. In my experience I have found that typically there are multiple steps and ways to do the job on each piece. Do some chemical first, then maybe a bit of scraping, then some sanding as a final step.
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I remember when I got my hood, I was surprised at how little protection the box offered. Fortunately, it was not damaged and I didn't have to pay shipping. I checked catalogs and saw prices ranged from 418.00 to 569.00, not including tax and shipping. That is less than I was expecting. If you can make your current hood work you could save a lot of money plus have the satisfaction of using an original part that you salvaged and restored. Of course if the hood isn't up to your standards, you wasted a lot of labor and materials. It would be great to hear from someone who recently purchased a repo hood and get some useful feedback regarding their satisfaction.
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Ya, I second the paint stripper. It won't bubble like new paint, it just liquiffys it and you use a squeegee to scrap off the liquid. Then a quick run over with 80 grit.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53906044027_4ec9a84805_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q8uyQc)20240806_174834 (https://flic.kr/p/2q8uyQc) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
This was about an hour with 60gr on my random orbit electric sander. Works ok, but gonna take forever and Im concerned about building up too much heat.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53907186838_beff845502_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q8AqxQ)20240806_174837 (https://flic.kr/p/2q8AqxQ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Harbor Freight had a grand opening of a store fairly close, so I went there Sat and picked up some 'stripping discs'. The go into a drill. I got two kinds, one is a plastic version of a wire wheel, the other is made just for stripping paint, also some kind of plastic. Anyway, this was after about a half our with a combination of the two. Not working very well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53907379925_038b33f1ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q8BpWV)20240806_183936 (https://flic.kr/p/2q8BpWV) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Picked up some paint stripper from HD. It worked great! Only problem is I dont have a lot of patience. I attack it too soon. If I let it soak in longer I'm sure it would work even better.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53906938866_d4cf6433ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q8z9Qs)20240806_192958 (https://flic.kr/p/2q8z9Qs) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
After about an hr and a half, but a lot of wait time, one side stripped with chemical and then a once over with 60gr on the RO sander. Still needs a good bit of work, and the bird is etched in with rust so I will do a shot of evaporust to see if I can knock that out.
All in all this hood is not too bad. I would prefer to use something better but its what I have. Also, this one is leaps and bounds better than the one I used for my 77, so I know I can bring it back to life.
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Good progress on what is a labor intensive task. This is an excellent example of why bodywork and paint is often very expensive on a classic car.
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It always amazes me that the birds are etched in. On the few I have done i have used an acid etch (probably phosphoric) to get into those pits, wash it really well and then epoxy. Looks like you're making good progress, but wait until you get to the under side.... not to discourage you but that side is a real booger.
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That etched in bird would make awesome wall art!
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Someone else made the same comment about the wall art. I could probably finish the stripping process, clear coat, then sell it on ebay for enough money to buy a decent new hood :shock:
Yes Luke, I am not looking forward to the underside. Def a pain. At least this one is straight from front to back. The one on my 77 was almost bent in half, I suppose form bad hood hinges. I had to take it apart at the seams and welded in a piece of steel for reinforcement.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53914837514_651936d018_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2q9gCQ3)20240810_115440 (https://flic.kr/p/2q9gCQ3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
A little more done on the hood. I soaked it with Rustoleum rust remover gel, then washed it, then hit the rusty bird outline with my roloc and angle die grinder. After the roloc I sanded the whole thing with 120 on my ro sander. This is showing one more treatment of the rust gel on the bird outline itself. I will wash this off and sand one more time. Its coming along nicely at this point.
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Could get some perfect factory measurements off of that for regular TAs. Looking good Kerry!
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That etched in hood looks awesome. Now I regret tossing my original rusty hood that had its decal embedded into it too.
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Picked up some epoxy primer yesterday, gonna try to get the bare metal coated today or tomorrow. Experienced a bit of sticker shock. I went to my local mom n pop store. They are not branded i.e. autozone, oriely's etc. But an old school store that mainly specializes in paint and paint supplies. They have been around since my older brothers were customizing vans in the 70's. Great guys to deal with and knowledgeable. They always help me when I have questions.
Anyway, I figured I only needed a quart, BUT the only company they had that sold epoxy in the quart was high end and was $180. I got the next level of quality by the gallon(2 gallons sprayable) for $200! The last gallon of epoxy primer I bought from Eastwood was around $60!! I cant wait until I get to buy a couple of quarts of paint for the hood :shock: :shock: :shock:
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Yeah, it's crazy how much paint has gone up.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53936784811_b7bc75a16d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbd7ZH)20240820_190922 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbd7ZH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I finally got the under side cleaned up enough to paint. Epoxy on it last night. Will do the face side today.
Going back to the price of paint, I went to get a gallon of final clean ( I used to call it prep sol). This is used to wipe down the bare metal surface before the paint is applied. It was $180 a gallon :shock: That is not a misprint. SO, no way I was spending that. I bought a quart of acetone at Sherwin Williams for $10 and used that. Paint went on fine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53937032518_12d4f1e27b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbeoCw)20240820_191050 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbeoCw) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
In my spare time I cleaned up my washer nozzels.
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Thanks for posting all the work you do. This will help me do the same thing in the end. Not quite that far yet but slowly getting there.
Great work, Kerry.
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Looks great Kerry! DANG, that's expensive prep-sol!!!
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Beautiful Kerry, It's hard to believe that's the same hood you started with. I am almost afraid to say anything, but you are really moving right along with the hood.
In early 2021 I bought some Prepsol at my local NCS supplies store and couldn't believe it was $48.00 a gallon.
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Ya, u was shocked at the price the paint prep I used to buy which was PPG. So this time I just bought a quart of it from eastwood when they had a traveling sale near me where I picked up my brake flaring tool.
Hood looks great. You really moved quick on that under side. That took me forever.
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Yea, It was pretty much a PIA. I worked most evenings for an hour so during the last week to get it there. There was some original smooch from the glue that seals the hood skin to the bracing that was spoozed out in big piles. I took a sharp chisel and cut it all back flush. I know it should have been left for originality but it just looked ugly to me. The skin itself has come loose from the bracing. I know they sell body adhesive which really isnt all that expensive (at least it wasnt?) but the 2 part caulk guns are easily $100+. (Broken record-I had one that burnt up in my fire years ago). Im not about to buy a new one so will look around and see if I can find some kind of glue/sealant that I think will do the job.
The only thing I need to purchase to finish my interior is the seat covers. A big expense with this car that I have been putting off. I picked them up yesterday afternoon :shock:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53939800056_7dab85f7b4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbtzjG)20240821_162930 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbtzjG) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Unfortunately there was a refrigerator in the box! My fridge that was 7 years old crapped out a couple of weeks ago and I had to replace it. Seat budget is now keeping my food fresh :grin: Whats another month or two?
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53941067625_d929e01f88_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbA58k)20240822_105623 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbA58k) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Got the top primered this morning. NO, I typically do not paint outside. The weather has been more than ideal and if I painted in my shop I would have to cover up my car good enough not to get overspray on it. Outside was good enough for this step as its going to be sanded and painted over a couple of more times before the colour goes on. Actually being under a tree there was ZERO junk of anything in the paint. If this was a finish clear coat I am sure it would have been full. Sometimes its better to be lucky than good :grin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53939710757_c2f907a48d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbt7M4)20240822_102628 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbt7M4) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
This is the gun I use for epoxy and primer. Its an hvlp from lowes, cost about $50. I have gone through a few of these. This one is getting to be on its last leg. The finish is almost like a bedliner, but again for this step it doesnt matter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53941066740_5473e9913a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbA4S5)20240822_150333 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbA4S5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The front edge on the dr side had a bump in it. It was really bad before I started to work on it. I beat it down pretty good with a bfh but after getting the paint on I could feel it pretty badly. I cut a wood template to match the profile of the front using the pass side as a template. Identify where the hump is and get the beast out again for a couple of whakks! Put it in its place. A little filler and it will be fine.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53940864423_bee556b841_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbz2HR)20240822_150456 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbz2HR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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This is the filler I use. I used the blocks to determine low spots. Some of the wings were still showing. A coat of filler, let it sit overnight sand it off and some sealer primer. Then do it all again until its pretty straight and flat. I like to use the store bought mixing board with tear away sheets. I am cheap and try to reuse a sheet as many times as possible. I also re use the throw away rubber gloves! Did I say I was cheap?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53940865108_b700ca9216_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qbz2VE)20240822_111208 (https://flic.kr/p/2qbz2VE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
And lastly, the sunbathing beauties whilst I was working.
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Wow great progress! I can't wait to see it painted
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I made a big goof :shock: :shock:
When the hood was bare metal I used acetone as a final clean before painting (see my above comment about prep-sol @$180 a gal.)
I sanded the body filler and sanded the epoxy. To get the dust off I figured why not hit it with some cleaner. So I sprayed a shot of the acetone on and it immediately turned to gel :shock: :shock: :shock: EPIC FAIL!
So, I stopped there and ordered some purposeful stuff from Eastwood along with some 2k primer. Supposed to be on my stoop Tuesday. I can get the exhaust buttoned up in the meantime.
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Sorry to hear you hit a minor snag on the hood restoration, other than the acetone incident it is looking great. Those two little four legged supervisors must have been sleeping on the job. Their sensitive noses should have sniffed out the acetone and warned you it would give you problems.
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Kerry, you make me laugh..... I do exactly the same things. I reuse my plastic gloves until they rip, I use the tear off paper over and over, I clean my bondo spreaders with wd40, I have one that is probably 30 years old....
Progress is progress. Looking great!
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Looking good Kerry! I reuse things like that too. My wife gets so mad when I leave a cup on the side of the sink haha. It just had water in it, so why put it in the dishwasher when I'll get another glass in a few hours.
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I rinse out my drink ware too :grin: I can use the same glass all weekend. After I drink a quick rinse and I will set it on the counter. After a day or two I figure its time for the dishwasher.
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Looking good. I can understand the worry about possible shipping damage when buying repops. I got a trunk lid due to extensive rust under the rear spoiler. One of the corners came slightly bent. Easily
fixable but frustrating nonetheless.
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I got the mess from the acetone cleaned up and sanded. Got the entire hood sanded with 200 dry. I cleaned that up and wet sanded with 400 then cleaned that a couple of times. Hoping to get some primer put on tomorrow, then sand, bondo, clean and primer again! As many times around the block until it looks pretty flat. I got some pre pain cleaner from eastwood and it works pretty nice. I like that its in a spray bomb. I think it was a bit under $20. If I figure the amount to make a gallon it probably equals the $180 that the paint store wanted :shock:
Also picked up some sprayway cleaner at Marshalls the other day for $4. There were some guys on the Antique forum that said they use that as a pre paint cleaner? I used it between the 220 and the 400, did a nice job.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53955056138_b6e77060ce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLqA)20240828_192803 (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLqA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53955056648_e56c1a74f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLzo)20240828_192807 (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLzo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53959280493_850038377e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qdcqbi)20240830_114200 (https://flic.kr/p/2qdcqbi) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53959486565_27209a48a1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qddtrg)20240830_123615 (https://flic.kr/p/2qddtrg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53958138497_deb442d671_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qd6yGH)20240830_130530 (https://flic.kr/p/2qd6yGH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
This was the only bad spot in the hood. Cut out the bad, weld in a new piece of metal and clean up with some bondo. Sand and paint.
Ready to put some more primer on the hood a this point.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53961479874_83abc544b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qdoFYE)20240831_122110 (https://flic.kr/p/2qdoFYE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53961611760_7522221261_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qdpnby)20240831_135605 (https://flic.kr/p/2qdpnby) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Got this thing sanded yet again and 2k primer over the filler and epoxy. Overall it looks pretty good and is nice and flat for the most part. There are 2 dips in a mirror image about 8in. from the front edge. I didnt look underneath but I suspect that is where its glued to the bracing. Its not very much but I think I will try and fill a little anyway. Now it needs block sanded with a long block looking for any other small dips that are not easily visible. Fill then prime again. Repeat.
I forgot how much fun the hoods are to work on :shock:
I thought the doors were bad but this is creeping right up there to #1 PIA.
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Ya, I feel the doors are #1 then the hood but it's a close second. Looking good!
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Also picked up some sprayway cleaner at Marshalls the other day for $4. There were some guys on the Antique forum that said they use that as a pre paint cleaner? I used it between the 220 and the 400, did a nice job.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53955056138_b6e77060ce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLqA)20240828_192803 (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLqA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53955056648_e56c1a74f3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLzo)20240828_192807 (https://flic.kr/p/2qcPLzo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Plus it will smell good too!
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Nice tech tip Kerry! If you left the hood flat black, it would still be a T/A. Challenger T/A, but none the less.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53969516112_31c9209016_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qe6SSu)20240903_164631 (https://flic.kr/p/2qe6SSu) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53970641358_d852ab01c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qecDnh)20240903_164058 (https://flic.kr/p/2qecDnh) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53970848815_951ec006c6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qedH38)20240903_165106 (https://flic.kr/p/2qedH38) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53970734639_59ff125aae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qed86z)20240903_171504 (https://flic.kr/p/2qed86z) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Getting closer to be ready for some real paint on the hood. It should arrive any day and I want to be ready for it. I used the TATA hood I had as a template. Its nice to have something like that just laying around :grin: I first outlined the where I think (hope) the colour change will occur. I used a 1/2" fine line painters tape for this that makes bends pretty easy. Then using a heavy construction paper cut to the line, flipped over for a mirror image to get the bottom half done. Fill in the above for the top half. My plan is to paint both colours at once, then clear coat the entire thing. When I painted the body of the car I painted the silver, after it was clear coated I masked it off and painted the grey. I think that was a mistake I wont live to regret :???:
My plan for this is to paint the dark grey at the top of the hood just a bit oversized. Then swap templates and paint the silver. Once this is ready I will clear everything at one time. Getting excited to get this thing finished.
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Kerry, the other day when we texted, I was thinking what a challenge it would be to line up the decals on the fenders and hood without thinking the hood is two colors. Not a job for those lacking confidence or ability. The right man is on the job! I really think you enjoy a challenge.
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Never thought about the two tone on the hood.
Why do you feel clearing over each color separately was a mistake? Just curious.
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I do like to challenge myself, sometimes a bit too much :grin:
When I painted the car I did the silver then clear coat. I then taped that off and painted the grey and clear coat. When I pulled the masking tape off there was a distinct ridge of clear coat build up at the tape line. I tried my best to get it flat before I buffed. The roof looked pretty good but I think I got a bit of wave in the doors. I can see it at the right angle, but otherwise it looks great. Its only about 1 inch below the window line I am hoping that between the window sweep and the tape it may not be noticeable. I am afraid of what its going to look like in the sunshine though (something this car has not seen in upteen years :eek: IF it looks too bad I may have to consider a repaint :???:
The directions from Phoenix graphics say to install the hood bird first, then the fender tip decals and the tape to align everything. I took all of my measurements from this ratty Tenth Ann hood that I have and will do so when I place the bird. I dont think I will have to worry about alignment, fingers crossed.
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putting on that bird seems very daunting to me
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If it's just not flat (different levels if paint thickness), you could just scuff and shoot a path of clear over it and then wet sand to blend. Now, if your tape lines are wavy that's a different issue. I have never waited between a base coat and clear I try to minimize the time the base is left uncoated to reduce contamination. I at least put one or two coats of cleat on let it dray and then scuff, tape and then clear, pull tape and clear everything with a few coats. Sand and buff. But, you don't need any help, you're doing a fantastic job, everything looks great!
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Yes Luke, I follow the paint, let it flash for prescribed amount of time then clear coat. I know you can paint, let it sit for a day or two then scuff and clear. My plan is to paint the grey, once its dry enough mask off and paint the silver, once its ready clear coat. I want to do it all at one time. It will be a long stressful morning :eek:
As to the hood bird install, I am not too worried at this point. I would have rather had it on whilst the summer sun was still nice and hot but oh well. When I did the one on my 77 it came out perfect. I had my son help and we both commented on how simple it was and how nice it turned out. The next day it was full of air bubbles. Looked worse than the moons surface. I panicked and even considered ripping if off. I started squeezing and popping bubbles. Once I calmed down I parked it in the sun for a couple of weekends and between that and the underhood heat from the motor running the decal turned out perfect and is completely flat. There is one very small wrinkle which was damage I did popping a bubble. If I had left it alone that would not have happened. So, If this one bubbles up I will not panic, just let it get some heat and a little time.
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As for the bird application, you are 100% right. I did the same thing and wrinkled a tiny spot because I was trying to get rid of a bubble, I should have left alonre.... I hope others see this and don't work the decal too much, let the heat do it's thing over a few weeks.
I can't wait to hear how the painting goes. Good luck!
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Im still waiting on my paint to arrive. Its coming from New Orleans so I dont want to call them right now as they probably have enough on their plate with the storm. In the meantime I just about have my exhaust finished. I ran into a problem with how the hangers work/where they mount kinda thing. Then it hit me, go look at your 77 dummy :shock: So I have that figured out now, will get that part finished up tomorrow. Found a small stress crack in my shaker so I dremeled it out and put some pc epoxy then sanded and primed. Also while waiting I decided to refinish the air bottle for the spare tire. Waiting on the new decal to come in.
I found a pulse wiper switch from Franks in Cali. It took 3 days from the time I ordered until it was in my mailbox. I thought that was pretty good going across the country. It takes Ames at least 4 or 5 days to get me stuff from a couple states away! Anyway, I cleaned it up a bit and wanted to compare it to the one in my car that was crapped out. Wouldnt you know it, the one in the car started working :grin: So now I have a spare. Besides the one in the car was just a slight bit nicer than the one I bought.
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I am still waiting on paint :o :sad:
In the meantime I have finished my exhaust. I am only about 90% satisfied and once the car is on the road I may take it to an exhaust shop to see if they can clean it up a bit. The over axle pipe on the passenger side did not fit quite right and I had to modify it just a bit. Cant really see anything unless youre under the car, but it bothers me a bit. To change gears just a small bit I decided to restore the inflator bottle for the spare tire. It came out really nice. I ordered a new label from Ames but its nowhere near correct. The Parts Place has one that is pretty close so I need to get one from there. I got a new park brake kit from F bird central. Pretty nice part and I started the install. That thing has and is fighting me all the way. First was getting the old one out of the floor board by the front seat. Had to cut it. Then that hole was just a slight bit smaller than the new fitting, so I had to ream that out a bit. THEN the hole at the pedal connection was also a bit undersized and that needed reamed as well. I used my right angle battery die grinder with a cone shaped stone. Worked pretty good. All cables in and went to hook up the calipers :shock:
That part of the operation is to be continued...................................
And I got an email that cold case now offers black radiators so I am planning on switching mine out for one that looks correct.
Its only money :shock:
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The exhaust on these is a bit of a nightmare. I plan to redo mine over the winter. I need to add some hangers to get it closer to the floor pan.
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I used a Pypes dual system. All in all it wasnt too bad, just the last pipe on the pass side was kinda wonky.
As for my e brake, that was pretty straightforward until hooking up the calipers. I thought that was going to be the easy part.
Apparently I have the wrong side caliper on the dr. side. The e brake connection is backward. Not having any prior experience I had no idea when I installed this a couple of years ago. I am sure it is marked L but will not know until I remove it this weekend. Last winter when I was having trouble hooking up my lines I bought a new pair of calipers which I ended up not using and just put them on the shelf. So, I pulled them down and lo and behold the new one marked R is a perfect match for my original dr side that is marked L? The one marked L does not match my dr. Very frustrating.
There was a previous post a couple of years ago that was pointed out to me that someone else had the same issue.
I will try to post a picture showing the difference.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54008692694_dac3f72a8f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhyEGN)20240919_085004 (https://flic.kr/p/2qhyEGN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Original caliper on the left (marked L) Replacement in the middle (marked R) and replacement on the left (marked L)
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Wow
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That's crazy Kerry. Glad you got that straightened out. Hopefully you get your paint soon.
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I figure the rotation on the ebrake should be the same, I am hoping that I can move the bracket and spring to the bottom of the caliper as it exists on my car presently. That will keep me from having to unhook the line and then bleed the brakes again! IF not I will have to swap out what I have with this one thats on my bench.
I called the paint store today, they told me that it will be shipped later this afternoon :-? and I should have it within 3 days. Being were heading into the weekend if that is the case I will be looking for it around wednesday. Thats good I suppose as it will give me time to get the parking brake situation fixed, then I have the speedo cable to hook up and that should finish me with the bottom of the car.
I have been putting off but finally got around to ordering a replacement window sticker from Mike Noun. Got it yesterday and it looks fantastic. Mike does a great job with these.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54008377372_8b62e8f79d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhx3Yd)20240920_154211 (https://flic.kr/p/2qhx3Yd) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54009708670_2f908118f7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhDSHC)20240920_154216 (https://flic.kr/p/2qhDSHC) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54009508188_570257d95b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qhCR83)20240920_154239 (https://flic.kr/p/2qhCR83) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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For some reason my pics are not downloading right now, I will post them when they pop up.
OK, So the fault lies on me. The caliper I had on the dr side was marked R. However, it does not match or come close to the original in any way!
As most know or may not, the front calipers are available as a replacement for the second gen t/a. I bought mine at napa. The rears are no longer available. All of the supply houses I checked say the same thing. They are not made anymore. The originals can be rebuilt and I was planning on that, but Firebird central had replacements available. So I got those. They do say they are not like the originals but work. The way they are configured messed me all up. When I was having problems I searched the net and found what were supposed to be direct replacements so I bought a pair. Lo and behold after finding my original they match up perfectly, SO, I suppose they are available. I will post what I used. Everything is now hooked up on the dr side, I need to bleed it again then I can attack the pass side. I hope it goes better :shock:
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That window sticker is amazing! Where did you get it from?
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Mike Noun. You need to send him the PHS info. I am not 100% sure but I dont think that PHS does window stickers anymore.
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Mike Noun. You need to send him the PHS info. I am not 100% sure but I dont think that PHS does window stickers anymore.
Thanks
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Got home early yesterday and it was a rainy afternoon so I got a little forward progress done.
1. Got the dr side brake bled, and finished up
2. Installed park brake at pass side (park brake adjusted but needs a little more tlc)
3. Pulled the dash cluster in prep for a mild restoration. Clean up, new lights, etc.
3. Pulled the broken speedo cable in prep for new speedo cable install. Something going on with the connection at the trans, lost my flashlight so I went to the next job at hand. Will re-visit this today.
4. Installed my new tach wire (using the flashlight, dropped and fell into the lower front fender. Didnt feel like digging it out, refer to #3 :lol:)
5. Installed my 'new' pulse wiper switch(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54017304945_7275d67d04_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qijNPT)20240923_153627 (https://flic.kr/p/2qijNPT) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54017096633_a33932ed96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiiJUi)20240923_162959 (https://flic.kr/p/2qiiJUi) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54016873881_0201eccf33_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qihAFK)20240923_162830 (https://flic.kr/p/2qihAFK) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Took the cluster apart and did a cleaning/light restoration. I did not want to paint the outside of the can because I liked the way the factory over spray was. I know its kind of ridiculous as no one will ever see it, but I will know.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54018561822_92841c938b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qirfsb)20240924_160159 (https://flic.kr/p/2qirfsb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54018560317_45079810b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qirf1e)20240924_175823 (https://flic.kr/p/2qirf1e) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54019689518_3110e70de1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qix2Fd)20240924_154824 (https://flic.kr/p/2qix2Fd) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54019688988_120fa5cafe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qix2w5)20240924_175653 (https://flic.kr/p/2qix2w5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54019899985_556401330f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qiy7eX)20240924_180658 (https://flic.kr/p/2qiy7eX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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That cluster looks significantly better Kerry! Great work. Also like the PHS documentation, that MPG document is really cool.
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Wow! Nice job! I didn't realize the inside was painted red, I figured it was just red bulbs
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Really nice looking window sticker. Also great job on the instrument cluster. I had forgotten they were painted red only on the 79 TATA cars. Out of curiosity was the clear bezel scratched? If so, what did you use to polish it?
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I read an article that during the design phase they wanted the instrument cluster to have 'an airplane/jet' like feel about it, hence the red gauges. They experimented with red bulbs but found that painting the inside of the can red (more like fluorescent red) did the trick.
The original lense was in bad condition. I bought new from AMES. I have nothing to loose and will try to polish the old one just to see if it can be brought back.
Paint came in yesterday, but it looks like rain for the next 7 days so it will be awhile before I will be using it. In the meantime maybe I can get some of the loose ends tightened up.
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I polished a spare I have mildly and it helped although I forget the what I used.
I personally love the factory gauges in these cars. No offense to anyone who has swapped them for aftermarket but I’ve never seen a set, even the newest made to resemble factory, that I liked.
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I agree. Actually I feel that way about the entire car. I suppose one of the reasons why I love Trans Am's. To me they are perfect right off the dealers floor. Not many cars can claim that.
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I polished a spare I have mildly and it helped although I forget the what I used.
I personally love the factory gauges in these cars. No offense to anyone who has swapped them for aftermarket but I’ve never seen a set, even the newest made to resemble factory, that I liked.
I couldn't agree with you more on the factory dash and gages on these cars. At a time when most cars were built with really plastic and cheesy instruments, they looked high quality, even if they weren't super accurate.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54033780341_fc749b0965_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjMfor)20240930_164730 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjMfor) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54034111814_2f97587db2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjNWVu)20240930_164743 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjNWVu) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Got a little shop time yesterday afternoon. Got the cluster installed, new speedo cable hooked up. I need to put the battery on the charger for a bit then will fire this beast up again checking to see what is and what is not working in the dash. If all is good then I can move on to something else. I did find when I was testing the lights a couple of weeks ago that my turn signal switch is junk! Not sure how that happened as I would have thought I would have checked it when I restored the column. I bought a new switch and need to replace that next order of business. Perhaps this evening if I am in the right state of mind.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974008529_e1ef8d0a1e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qeuUiX)20240905_145620 (https://flic.kr/p/2qeuUiX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974121585_6e425b5cdd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qevtVc)20240905_145944 (https://flic.kr/p/2qevtVc) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53974121380_e21366f063_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qevtRE)(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53973687416_dc8d93ffcf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qetfRw)20240905_154028 (https://flic.kr/p/2qetfRw) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr20240905_153604 (https://flic.kr/p/2qevtRE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54034234345_46c8be537b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjPzm6)20240930_155657 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjPzm6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54032914272_d574035205_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjGNWd)20240930_155539 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjGNWd) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
This is the inflator bottle I decided to restore. After stripping off the cardboard I found the colour was actually a dark blue and not the lighter blue as it looked at the top. I only assume it has faded that much over the years. I had 3 'Pontiac' blues on the shelf and none of those matched. I did have a can of 'ford' blue that I got at TSC to match the colour of the motor mount and it was just about a perfect match to the original colour under the sleeve. I sanded down to bare, put a coat of high build primer, then a coat of glazing putty to fill any pits. Sand down again, a couple more coats of high build then the final colour coat of blue. Turned out pretty nice. I found a lable from The Parts Place. I replaced the cardboard sleeve with a piece of very heavy construction paper we use called 'Ram board'. HD has it for floor protection during construction. I wrapped it twice and glued it together then wrapped with shrink wrap as a clamp. I will finish it up later today hopefully.
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Dang! You are going all in on this restoration! Great work Kerry!
Somewhere I have three inflatable spares and those canisters. Never really thought of restoring them. I may have to if I could ever find the time.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54034315187_59f8b24771_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjPZnV)20240909_134830 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjPZnV) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54035394638_96932335bd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjVwg9)20240930_171913 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjVwg9) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54035808710_b6be2a435d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjXDmj)20241001_120234 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjXDmj) by (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54035687984_383a1df41f_c.jpg) (https://[url=https://flic.kr/p/2qjX2sQ)20241001_120300 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjX2sQ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickrwww.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/]Kerry Grubb[/url], on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54035357356_aa369903a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qjVkbm)20241001_120246 (https://flic.kr/p/2qjVkbm) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Not perfect, but came out good enough to throw into the trunk :-D
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looks great!!!
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Not perfect, but came out good enough to throw into the trunk :-D
I disagree, I don’t think the bottles looked that good new😁
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I should restore the bottle in my car, though it doesn't look too bad as is. My problem is that of all the various labels available from multiple vendors, none display the same part number as the one I have (9590212). Probable not a big deal to most people, but a sticking point for me. Your work on this 10th, by the way, has been fantastic! Keep it up!!
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Great work Kerry! Do you have to send those bottles out to be hydrotested or is this now just a show piece?
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Simply a show piece.
Yes, I looked everywhere and the label I got from the Parts Place was as close to the original as I could find. Obviously the one I had was in deplorable condition and it was not original to the car. The new replacement label was close but as another 10th pointed out the numbers are off slightly. I figured since it was a replacement bottle that I could get by with something a bit different. The tire sizes on the label are correct though. If I had one original to the car and it was even marginal at best I would def. keep it as is original. Keep in mind though, this car was literally a basket case when I got it!
The original label on the one I have was also a 9590212 replacement is 9590678.
Another Tenth, I think there is a date code stamped at the top of the bottle, when you have a chance can you check what yours says, also the build date of your car. Thanks.
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Simply a show piece.
Yes, I looked everywhere and the label I got from the Parts Place was as close to the original as I could find. Obviously the one I had was in deplorable condition and it was not original to the car. The new replacement label was close but as another 10th pointed out the numbers are off slightly. I figured since it was a replacement bottle that I could get by with something a bit different. The tire sizes on the label are correct though. If I had one original to the car and it was even marginal at best I would def. keep it as is original. Keep in mind though, this car was literally a basket case when I got it!
The original label on the one I have was also a 9590212 replacement is 9590678.
Another Tenth, I think there is a date code stamped at the top of the bottle, when you have a chance can you check what yours says, also the build date of your car. Thanks.
If I'm reading this correctly, the bottle is dated 1-79. The build of the car was 03C (third week of March, 1979).
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This is the current condition of my inflator bottle. You can see why I'd like to restore it, but I want the correct part number on the label.
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I dare say that looks too nice to mess with. Especially if it is original to your car. Mine was horrible and not original.
My car is also 3rd week of march. I am not sure if I have you on my registry. I will double check. You may have sent me some info awhile back. Curious as to your s/n compared to mine.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54041292485_3abd014963_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qkrKua)20241002_094556 (https://flic.kr/p/2qkrKua) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54041168804_d9157e3aca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qkr7HJ)20241003_075549 (https://flic.kr/p/2qkr7HJ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54040843101_b314649e0f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qkprUa)20241002_094547 (https://flic.kr/p/2qkprUa) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54041168329_9a51c37a09_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qkr7zx)20241003_164549 (https://flic.kr/p/2qkr7zx) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Another quick clean up. Repaint of the jack base.
I finally got to putting back the under dash duct work after many months. I took it all out last winter when I replaced the heater core. Most went back ok, then I figured I would clean up the glove box door before putting it back. Well, the plastic hinge is just about shot, the a/c vent has no chrome left and the metal backing has a rust spot. I accessed the situation, figure what was the best way to repair the hinge, and replace the chrome on the vent. I have 'chrome' paint but its only just another silver. So I pulled out the parts book and saw that all could be ordered new so, another order placed and now wait for a couple of days for the parts to come in.
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I forgot to add, looking at the bottle that Jeff posted the label goes all the way to the bottom. The replacement label I got is a bit shorter, thus the reason why there is about an inch of bottle showing at the bottom. I tried to keep the original margin at the top. I wasnt too keen on this detail but it was the best I could do as far as finding a decent label.
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I dare say that looks too nice to mess with. Especially if it is original to your car. Mine was horrible and not original.
My car is also 3rd week of march. I am not sure if I have you on my registry. I will double check. You may have sent me some info awhile back. Curious as to your s/n compared to mine.
No, I have not added my serial number to any registry. My car is a Norwood build. I recently met a gentleman nearby who just acquired a 10th with just 2600 miles on it. It is also a Norwood build from the third week of March. His serial number is 426 units below mine. Send me a private message and I'll give you my serial number to compare with your own. But I don't think I'm interested in having it recorded in a registry.
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In regards to how the serial numbers relate; while the VINs are 426 units apart, the body numbers (per the trim tags) are only 165 units apart. I don't know what that means, exactly, but I found it interesting nonetheless.
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Another little project out of the way. I re-installed the underdash duct work that I removed last winter to put in the new heater core. Went to put the glove box door on and didnt realize how crappy it looked. No way I was going to put it in without clean up. Then I saw the hinge was broken on each end, the metal pan had some rust so I decided to go all in. I do not have a key for the lock so I replaced that as well, not that I ever going to lock anything in there, but at least it works properly.
I ordered a new cover from Ames. Also got a new a/c vent with decent chrome. First thing, rivets need drilled out with a 1/8" bit. Then the lock comes off. A tiny screw driver pushes the tumbler in several clicks at a time to pull that out. Then a $10 specialty tool to remove the base of the lock. Then the cover comes off the metal plate. Sand, prime and paint with Krylon semi gloss black, sem gray on the plastic. Pop rivet it all back together, install new lock and finish product.
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I set the hood in place one last time before painting. I had it placed before but the nose was not on. I wanted to make sure things lined up ok with that as well before a finish coat. Since I will be spraying a foot away from the finished car I bought a disposable car cover from Griots for $10. Car fits fine and there is plenty of room around it. I hope it keeps overspray off :shock:
Got the bottom of the hood sanded, one cleaning and started to tape off getting ready to spray. Hoping to get some colour on by the end of the weekend.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54054883385_afab9b5c41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qmDpA2)20241007_153758 (https://flic.kr/p/2qmDpA2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54053565827_cd3618f880_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qmwDVv)20241007_154402 (https://flic.kr/p/2qmwDVv) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54053563567_4927a273a4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qmwDfx)20241008_085221 (https://flic.kr/p/2qmwDfx) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54054458881_498dd2f73e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qmBeoZ)20241007_170203 (https://flic.kr/p/2qmBeoZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I'm going to be doing the same thing to my glove box door. Thanks for the "how to". Nice to know that Ames has the door cover.
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Impressive job on the hood Kerry. Your car has come a long way since the beginning of this year.
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Nice on the glovebox door. It’s actually not difficult to rekey those locks either. In my case I had a lock that matched my doors and trunk but the chrome knob broke off. It eventually bothered me enough that I removed the old lock, bought a new and swapped over the pins to the new lock and installed that so now my key still fits. I appreciate the info on the cover. I have a spare glovebox door that could use a little TLC on the inside I may clean up.
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Hershey (major old car event and ginormous AACA car show in PA) was this past week. My son drove us up on Thursday to walk the swap meet area, I was on the road at 430 am on Friday to head back up (1.5 hr dr) for the car show which I was also a judge. Saturday my wife took me to the pumpkin patch (no double entendre, literally a pumpkin patch) so no car time. Its supposed to cool down this coming week and Sunday was nice so I figured no better time to get the hood painted. This was a big sacrifice as I am a huge football fan and its hard for anything to get my butt off the couch on Sunday's in the fall :lol:
I started early in the morning, at least for me on a Sunday. About 9 am. Got the underside painted, let it sit for a few then clear coat. I let that sit for a couple of hours (got some game time in :grin:) then started the top side. First template in place to paint the dark grey. Then after that sat for awhile, maybe an hour put on the second template for the silver. I had to put several coats of that on for good coverage. Then when I thought it was good, there were some streaks I wasnt happy with so yet another coat. Silver seems to be a pain to paint and get it even. Let that sit for half hour, remove the template. There was a slight hard edge at the juncture between the two colours so I carefully cut it off with a razor, then some 400 gr sanding at that point only. Clean up again and clear coat. All came out ok, I will need to wet sand and buff. I am a bit rough shod painting and did not set up any kind of booth this time, I had one small bug get into the clear as it was dark when I got to that stage. It will buff out though. I finished everything up around 830 pm. It was a long day.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54063019472_9e0c9ecd0a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnn7ao)20241013_120846 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnn7ao) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54064972001_1b12828626_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnx7zF)20241013_164858 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnx7zF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54065228923_652176042b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnyqXn)20241013_170305 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnyqXn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54064104397_efac5fc8a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnsEEZ)20241013_180911 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnsEEZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54064971296_00d858844d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnx7nw)20241013_183225 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnx7nw) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54065431820_076a7949eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnztgA)20241013_194757 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnztgA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54065431540_c12bf2f4b1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnztbL)20241013_201535 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnztbL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54065227783_270b227ac9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnyqBH)20241013_201541 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnyqBH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Painting my shaker at the same time I ran into an adhesion problem after the second coat of paint went on. So I stopped with that. Not sure what the problem was. Maybe not clean, or a reaction with the prep sol seaping into a microscopic crack in the fibreglass? Anyway I sanded it down and will try to get it painted this evening.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54065433025_d13fb125d0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnztCn)20241013_184507 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnztCn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Also, the underside of the hood should be a semi black, but I gave it my spin on what Pontiac should have done with a special car. I think the silver looks more finished!
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Paint looks great Kerry! Congrats on getting some color back on the car. Bummer about the shaker, but you'll get it fixed!
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OK, I'm impressed. I have limited painting skills and have not done any automotive paint work for 25 years. I can appreciate the challenges of this paint job, with two colors and all the masking, you definitely have lots of opportunities to make mistakes. The hood looks great, I like how you painted the underneath body color.
I can't wait to see it in person!
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Amazing work as always. What impresses me most is how you paint all this without a fancy paint booth. Makes me want to try painting my fender that needs replaced myself this year
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Its kinda rough shod how I go into things. I was going to set up some plastic as a quasi temp booth but figured what the heck and just wing it. Although my shop is primarily for working wood, its been awhile since I have had any wood projects going on. I have a couple that need to be done but purposely have not done them as I didnt want any more dust floating around than need be before I painted the hood. I opened the overhead door enough to get a big fan set up, blocked the rest of the opening with some cardboard and went at it. There is a little dust in the paint and it was getting dark by the time I finished and I ended up with 2 bugs. I dont think any of it is a big deal though as it will be wet sanded then buffed. I got the clear on pretty heavy.
Thanks for the words of encouragement :grin:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54071183192_29b0e488b7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qo5WXb)20241016_163205 (https://flic.kr/p/2qo5WXb) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54072394214_1a624641c4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qoc9WS)20241016_163159 (https://flic.kr/p/2qoc9WS) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54072519020_4d9ac9213c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qocN3G)20241016_163149 (https://flic.kr/p/2qocN3G) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54071183987_dd5b7f3862_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qo5XbT)20241016_163143 (https://flic.kr/p/2qo5XbT) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Tried painting again last night but I ran into the same problem, different area after a couple of coats of grey. So this morning before I left for work I sanded the whole thing down 1 more time :? I was using some Spray Way all purpose cleaner as a prep solvent and I figure it was not completely dry in the spot where the paint boofed! So, getting home from work early enough this afternoon I figured I would try again. This time NO cleaner. Just a couple of good wipedowns with a clean cloth. Paint went on fine, did about 4 light coats waiting about 10 between. Then I let it sit for 15 min and started the clear. 2 good coats with a 15 minute wait period between coats. All in all it looks pretty decent. Again, a few specs of dust but that should all buff out. I think I am finally finished painting this car!!
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Kerry, I am jealous of your paint job.
With the shaker done, hope you can enjoy a little football this weekend!
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Looks amazing!
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From a trained painter, you are doing and amazing job! Even my shaker is now showing hair line cracks, years later after paint. Hood looks amazing! Keep it up! Next summer you'll be driving it!
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Thanks Luke, I appreciate the kind words. Im not sure if I have said it before but I have had a lot of experience running a spray gun across cabinets and the occasional piece of furniture. So that much I have experience with. In regards to painting cars, its all self taught. I bought a dvd set years ago when I painted the 77, and I have a small mom n pop shop that sells paint and supplies that I get a lot of product from. The guys there have been a great help and will answer any questions I have as well as offering good advice.
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Wow, why aren't you my next door neighbor?! Looking good bud.
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Ha! I keep saying that to Ryan :-D
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54088118627_a4b295a35f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qpzKgr)20241023_164130 (https://flic.kr/p/2qpzKgr) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54089324894_84b3415e9e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qpFVR9)20241023_170301 (https://flic.kr/p/2qpFVR9) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Started wet sanding yesterday. The shiny areas are the wet spots not dry yet.
So I made a couple of mistakes. First was I waited a week to start the 'cut and buff'. I went back to the paint shop for some more clear coat and the guys there told me that 24 hrs is a good enough wait time. They said the longer the clear sits the harder it gets thus, wet sanding is harder to do.
The reason I was getting more clear is that I boofed the wet sanding. I was too lazy! I started with 600, then 800 then 1200 then 2500. I then started buffing. This was all done in about an hours time!!! Problem was I never got the 600 gr scratches out. No amount of buffing is going to remove scratches that deep. So I scuffed the entire hood with 600 again (after cleaning well with grease and wax remover) then put an additional 3 coats of clear. The second go round had a little more dust than the first time as I was rushing it.
I waited the 24 hrs and started the wet sand with 2000 (as opposed to 600, which the shop said was way to coarse to start with) this time around. Took about 3 hrs to do the entire hood, still need a bit of touch up. Next up is 3000. I will do that tonight after work. I may stop at 4000 then start buffing.
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I usually start with 1000, 1500 then 2000, maybe once in s while go to 2500. Good quality compounds are designed to remove 1500 scratches. I use wizard compounds as they are designed to remove 1500 and their grit is designed to break down and get progressively finer as you continue to buff. Even 3m perfect rubbing compound says it will remove 1200 grit scratches. Just saying, you don't need to waist time and arm muscles wet sanding it that far. You do what you want, it's turning out great, just trying to save you some time.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54091580277_0ac6e1ae66_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qpTui4)20241024_174819 (https://flic.kr/p/2qpTui4) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54092907940_3031c667b0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qq1hXN)20241024_174827 (https://flic.kr/p/2qq1hXN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Wet sanding started at 2000. I spent about 3 1/2 hrs at that grit. I got all of the orange peel out and a couple of bad spots. Surface was completely smooth. I run a small bar of rubber as a squeegee which reveals anything ugly. Then 2500 and 3000. I spent maybe an hour and half on these 2. My local shop has a product called Presta. Colour coded with matching pads. I started with the 'cutting compound' which is labled black with a black wool pad. Next was a polish compound which used a blue foam pad. The above pictures are the result of that process. This was done with a rotary 8" buffer. The fellow at the shop told me to finish up with my 6" Griots buffer and a Griots fine polishing compound. That will be done with a yellow foam pad. I plan on hitting that this evening.
As the hood sits, I think its about as good as the rest of the car. Depending on how the Griots stuff works out I may go back and buff the rest of the car. I cannot do any kind of wax until the decals are complete.
For those of you that wonder why a paint job cost so much,
To date IF I were paying myself a modest sum of $50 hr. I estimate I have close to $4000 in the hood alone!!!
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Paint looks amazing. Great job. I’m tired just reading about all the sanding.
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Kerry, it sure looks good!
It’s been a long time since I have done any automotive painting. I never had any formal training but learned a lot from a friend who owned a body shop. From him I learned there is a lot of preparation involved and no real shortcuts. Everyone I’ve talked to said today it’s very expensive to have it professionally done, both for labor and materials. I know you take a lot of pride in your workmanship and it shows.
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Thanks for the positive comments.
Yes, starting with the rusty piece of junk I have lost count of how many times I have sanded this hood :shock: I do know every square inch of it very well by now though :lol:
I can finally move on from the hood at this point, for the moment. I am working on the hinges now. They were pretty bad as well. A long bath in evaporust followed with my roloc. I might pick up a small blasting cabinet to finish them up. It will save me a ton of time. If I can get the hood installed I will be able to finish up the decals and pretty much call the outside of this thing finished (with the exception of the wheels).
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Nice 10th. At Dayton I picked up a nice orig 10 th carpet at the swap.
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Fantastic work Kerry! When are you going to make a thread about your Chevelle??
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Nice 10th. At Dayton I picked up a nice orig 10 th carpet at the swap.
Someone sent me a pic of it laying on the ground! I have been looking for years now. Do you have the original carpet in your car you are replacing? If so I may be interested in that. Give me a PM.
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Ryan, since you broke the mould, I will def start a thread if the good folks here let me :grin:
I need to get the 79 finished first though :shock:
There have been many times when I have been in the waiting period that I have wanted to get started on it, but I only have 10 garage bays to do the work! I have no room to start the tear down, store parts and start something else.
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One hinge cleaned. I soaked in evaporust, then hit with the roloc, then today I bought a new toy (blast cabinet) and got all of the nooks and crannies with media blasting. Took a little longer than I remember I think I need to get some new media just a tad coarser.
It looks like these were gold cad plated originally but I suspect they were factory painted before they were installed?
I was going to paint them with black phosphate like I did with the 77 which looks fine, but after a little more internal debate I may continue with my 'over restoration' and paint them body colour :???:
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Those look great Kerry! I know you don't want to spend more money but you may want to look at buying a siphon media blaster kit (the ones they sell to siphon out of a 5 gallon bucket). I have found some of those are better quality blaster and more efficient than what comes with the cabinets. It may not totally be the media you have. My media is like baking soada consistency and works fine.
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Nice 10th. At Dayton I picked up a nice orig 10 th carpet at the swap.
Someone sent me a pic of it laying on the ground! I have been looking for years now. Do you have the original carpet in your car you are replacing? If so I may be interested in that. Give me a PM.
I don’t have a 10th. I sold it to a guy in Kentucky
I just found some floor mats in the box, may be 10th. Same guy wants them. I always grab 10 th when I see it.
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Been catching up after being out for a couple of weeks for back surgery. Hoods looks amazing! You for sure have skills!
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Thanks, Hope you are doing well.
I thought the front end (nose piece) was pretty nice. It has been sitting on a cart covered up for the last several years after I painted it. Now that its in place I am not sure what I was thinking. My son made a comment which I regrettibly became a little beligerent with him. He asked if I was drunk when I painted it! First, I dont drink so I cant use that excuse but I wish I could. The clear coat is horrible looking closely. It was thin in some spots, namely in front of the lights, which resulted in an alligator texture. A couple of other spots are thin, and there is some significant cracking. I tried to ignore it but I know I will never be happy, so the next best thing is to sand it down and re spray. I am hoping it just needs the clear to be re-done and not painted. So that will keep me busy over the next few months.
Now I am trying to get the motor fired up, not having any luck. Trying a couple of things hoping for the best.
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I have faith in ya, you'll get it figured out! Both paint and motor!
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VICTORY! I have been fighting ever so slightly this past week with trying to get the motor running again. I did have run for a couple of minutes months ago but I am not sure I even had the radiator hooked up. I know the exhaust wasnt in. I did not want to run it too long and I only put maybe a gallon of gas in. For fear there may be a leak someplace I did not want to deal with a lot of gas in the tank. I think the last time I tried starting it ran out of gas and has sat since.
So now that pretty much everything is done to a point that it should be able to run on its own power, I put 5 gal in the tank. Cranked for a couple of seconds and nothing. Put an ounce or two in the carb, it fired up but once that gas was gone that was it. Tried this a couple more times with the same results. I had more time this morning and motivation to crawl under the car. With some advice from my chief mechanic, I figured I would start with the fuel lines from front to back. I will add the first thing I did the other night was to pull the connection of the fuel line at the front of the carb and NO fuel was getting there.
Right away I could see the rubber fuel line to the pump was too short and kinked right at the connection. So I pulled it off, put a longer piece in and VIOLA! fuel is flowing and the motor started right up.
It sounds really good, has a bit of a loppy cam at idle. All of the gauges were working, it showed good oil pressure. Even the clock was ticking away. I am trying to get a video put on here at some point of it running.
My next plan of attack is to get it off the cribbing and see if it will run under its own power. I am hoping I got the clutch and transmission in properly.
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Congratulations Kerry! Amazing work!
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I will ad to Lukes response about the blast cabinet I bought. I had a $20 siphon gun from TSC that I would use on stuff outside. I swapped it with the one in the HF cabinet and indeed it works much better.
In regards to the hood hinges, I thought they were stiff from the springs. But leaning them on the bench I cannot get them to budge. They were really not that bad looking when I started as far as the joints being seized. May just be the springs are that strong. I am going to have to rig them up to something to see if they do work. Otherwise I may be taking things apart a bit further to make sure they function properly. I dont see how I can take them apart and get back together either safely or with the factory look. If they are stiff it may be just a good dousing of PB. At one time I had about 5 or 6 pair of hood hinges. Typical they have sat around so long I have no idea where they are. I looked in the one place I thought they may be but not there.
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Congrats!!!!
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My turn signal stalk was jelly, so I figured the switch was broken. I have no idea why I did not replace it when I restored the column a couple of years ago :shock: New part has been on the shelf waiting on motivation. Now that I have it running and starting on a regular basis I figure no better time than now. Last night I took the thing apart and put the new switch in. Turns out it was the screw holding the actuator (I guess thats what I will call it) had a built in washer and was bottoming out on the plastic of the switch itself. It was not seating inside the metal and was simply 'jumping out of its track'. I took another screw and ground it down to fit between the plastic, with a good purchase on the metal only. Seems to have done the trick. I had the battery unhooked for a couple of days, hooked it back up and its beyond dead. I suppose its time to get a new one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135926184_7e2627336f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtNLME)20241111_174530 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtNLME) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Old switch. May not have been bad really, but it sure is nasty enough looking that I am glad I replaced it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135588466_8224969361_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtM3oW)20241111_170105 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtM3oW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Screw too wide to seat properly
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135588936_644a8ab717_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtM3x3)20241111_173056 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtM3x3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135874888_4290fc68be_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtNvxf)20241111_173038 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtNvxf) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Ground a little off the shoulder so it will fit tighter
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54136048605_a834d0f043_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtPpbn)20241111_173226 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtPpbn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
In place and working like it should
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54135926424_962c7287bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtNLRN)20241111_174538 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtNLRN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I have been hooking and unhooking the battery on a regular basis for the last few months. I am very glad I bought this battery terminal wrench. The right tool for the job sure makes a positive difference.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54136131529_cb54000221_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtPPQ6)20241112_170204 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtPPQ6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I forgot to ad, I put pb on all of the joints at the hood hinges. I had my son put some muscle to them and they broke free. Working like a charm now. I need to get the pb off so I can paint them now. I was so glad they came around one less thing I need to worry about.
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Congrats on the first start up Kerry!! Huge step forward :)
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I took the springs off of the hood hinges so I could lube the joints better. Did a quick check on utube and found its surprisingly easy to do. First close the hinge as it would be if the hood was down. This puts the spring under its max tension. I put a clamp across the spring just because. Next cut a piece of bar stock just short of the length between the hooks, notch each end. Slide the barstock inside the hinge so the notches will get a purchase on each leg of the hook end of the spring. Now open the hinge like the hood is opening and the will stay in its stretched position and drop right out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54146210033_fb0a506b89_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2quHtPp)20241116_153605 (https://flic.kr/p/2quHtPp) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54146390570_9f323a8c66_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2quJpu7)20241116_153646 (https://flic.kr/p/2quJpu7) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54145071317_3dd78e7436_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2quBDjn)20241117_102732 (https://flic.kr/p/2quBDjn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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After getting the new turn signal switch in place, things seem to be ok but I am having problems with the turn signal lights on the dash. All new bulbs and good sockets in the front. All lights are working. The back not so much. I had a glow from the dr. side but nothing on the pass. side. Took things apart and boy was it a mess. The sockets are beyond bad. Picked the 2 up that autozone had and 1 that I had in my drawer. Ordered the rest should be here tomorrow. I am hoping that something here was shorting out and I can see why it would. Hopefully this will get things working the way its supposed to. If not I suppose I need to pull the dash and check out the printed circuit :shock:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152135988_d06a340ec3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qveRp3)20241118_160012 (https://flic.kr/p/2qveRp3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54152136178_0fd3a54142_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qveRsj)20241118_160104 (https://flic.kr/p/2qveRsj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The rear bumper area needs a mini resto/freshening up. It has been, well I have lost count but probably 4 or 5 years since I have done anything back there. Needs a major cleaning, buff and some paint applied. I started back here when I first started working on this car. My intention was to throw things back together and sell it. My direction changed over the years so a freshening up is not surprising to me.
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I also was able to get insurance on the car. So now I can get tags from the dmv. Its not exactly road worthy yet but I dont think its that far off from at least doing a short shakedown run. Started looking for tires. I want a raised white letter but the choice is pretty limited in my budget. I am looking at the BFGoodrich and the Cooper's. They are about the only ones with the rwl. The coopers are about $40 a piece cheaper than the BFG's, I know this car will never wear out a set of tires so over all wear doesnt bother me. I did find that Coker has some 'period correct' tires at over $500 a piece. But that is way over my budget. I didnt pay that much for the car :shock: Plus I need to stretch the budget enough to have the wheels refinished.
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Thanks for the tips on working with the hood springs. I'll be doing that in the near future.
Hopefully the new sockets will take care of the turn signal issues.
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Good find on the hood springs work around!
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Kerry, it’s amazing what you can find on YouTube. I am sure others will appreciate you posting the pictures of the spring removal tool. After all the work you put into repairing and painting that hood, the last thing you want is hinges that don’t move freely.
Those rear bulb sockets were pretty nasty looking.
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New stuff supposed to be here today. My wife (shes the amazon holder of the family :lol:) told me my order has been delayed until next week! Autozone is supposed to have what I need and I was right there this morning. Its next door to the Lowes I was picking up materials. I'll stop by tomorrow sometime and get them. It was a long day today as well as my sons birthday, so I wasnt planning on any shop work tonight. But I would like to get something done tomorrow evening.
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BREAKING NEWS: Today was a major achievement in this long drawn out process. I got tags for the car :grin:
I finally decided to get some insurance on the car so I figured I may as well get tags. I am not ready for them but hopefully will be soon. I had a bit of a snafu with the title as it has had an error since day one. That took a bit of sorting out but all is good. I got my historic tags and was able to register a set of YOM tags that I have had.
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YAY!!!! Congrats!
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Congrats Kerry! You'll be driving her around in no time.
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Put the new bulb sockets in. There are 3 wire sockets and 2-2 wire sockets. The 2 wire sockets are for reverse lights. All of the bulbs went in like they should. Push in and twist, there are 2 little prongs on the bulbs that register into slots in the socket. Well, like everything else that has fought me on this car, the 2 wire sockets did not work :sad: I tried and tried to get the bulb in far enough so it would turn and lock into place. I resigned myself to the fact that the plastic was not made correct. So I had to take them apart, some careful dremel work to enlarge the slot that the bulbs seat into and now they work. Its frustrating when you buy a brand new part and it doesnt work the way it should.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54165706162_305d64c2ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qwrpky)20241124_102953 (https://flic.kr/p/2qwrpky) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166888439_9b2a8468a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qwxsMD)20241124_102843 (https://flic.kr/p/2qwxsMD) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166582726_7582c87fef_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qwvTUJ)20241124_102840 (https://flic.kr/p/2qwvTUJ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Everything is working ok as far as the lights go, well almost everything :shock:
There is something going on with the left blinker. I am thinking it may be a short or a ground issue?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54161801123_d093fcba62_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qw6ovi)20241123_203656 (https://flic.kr/p/2qw6ovi) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Ordered trunk weather seal, and hood weather seal and bumpers from Steele Rubber :lol: Parts came in super quick and seemed to be reasonably priced.
My brake switch works fine, but there are no stop nuts for it. So when the pedal arm hits it, it pushes back out of the way. I wanted to order a couple but the only way to get them is to order a new switch for $12. So I placed that, should be here any day.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54161836639_edbd5eecc3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qw6z4D)20241124_094808 (https://flic.kr/p/2qw6z4D) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I built this cart during covid as a shop cart as I didnt want to spend any money on one. It has served me well and I will repurpose it for something. Lowes had this shop cart on sale, I have been looking at it for quite some time so I decided to bite the bullet and bought it. Early Christmas present.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54161800843_22db580f35_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qw6oqt)20241124_094814 (https://flic.kr/p/2qw6oqt) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54161982360_e2dbbab9b4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qw7jo5)20241124_094856 (https://flic.kr/p/2qw7jo5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54166898369_41d3fd67e8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qwxvJR)20241125_141415 (https://flic.kr/p/2qwxvJR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I bought these vintage tags at Carlisle a few years ago. They are correct for 1979 MD. I didnt even notice until I got home that my historic tags are 400! I thought that was pretty cool. Been better if it was y89 instead of L90.
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Kerry,
That would have been a cool plate! Still, to randomly get what you did is pretty lucky even if it won't be displayed.
Here is my YOM plate. You just don't advertise a 403 like you would a 400!!
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Jeff, I like your plate and I’m envious of your lift.
Kerry, I had to look up L90, thinking it might be an option or engine that I was not aware of. 400 still pretty neat. Bummer about the light sockets, at least you got them functional. Also couldn’t help but notice you have an original ignition key.
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Me too on Jeffs tag and lift! I would love to have one of those.
I was wondering about the L90 as well, I think corvettes had an L88 so I guess thats close. Still, I bet some people might mistake it for an engine code and think that it is a vanity tag!
Yes, trunk keys are original as well as ignition key (good eye), but I put a new ignition switch in so it will be a novelty if nothing else. Also it has a locking gas cap. I thought it was a pep boys special but I thought I read here someplace that it may have been at the least a dealer option? Im not crazy about it but if its original I may keep it in place.
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Car is looking great! These little jobs to "finish" the car are what drags it out forever. Just keep at it. My problem was I started driving my car before it was 100% finished and I can't stop driving it....
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Jeff, I like your plate and I’m envious of your lift.
Kerry, I had to look up L90, thinking it might be an option or engine that I was not aware of. 400 still pretty neat. Bummer about the light sockets, at least you got them functional. Also couldn’t help but notice you have an original ignition key.
The lift is to alleviate a parking problem. But is IS a handy tool!
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Nice settup! I need to start putting a couple of nickels away each week for one of those. I have 6 garage bays plus a 40' shop but once this car is finished I am not sure where its going to be parked :shock: A lift would be ideal and useful. Or I could just get rid of some stuff :???:
Luke, you are right about the little stuff. I say the devil is in the details. When I did my 77 I thought it needed an inspection before I could get tags. So I made sure that everything was as close to 100% finished before I put it on the road. I guess in the long run it was a good decision. I can legally drive this TATA right now :shock: but not sure I want to.
My goal at this point is to get the trunk/back bumper area cleaned up and then I suppose it will be time to move on to the interior. It has been too cold for the last couple of weeks and add that my work schedule has had me slammed so not much has happened. Hoping to get something accomplished over the weekend.
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Jeff, I like your plate and I’m envious of your lift.
Kerry, I had to look up L90, thinking it might be an option or engine that I was not aware of. 400 still pretty neat. Bummer about the light sockets, at least you got them functional. Also couldn’t help but notice you have an original ignition key.
The lift is to alleviate a parking problem. But is IS a handy tool!
Is this a 12' ceiling?
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Jeff, I like your plate and I’m envious of your lift.
Kerry, I had to look up L90, thinking it might be an option or engine that I was not aware of. 400 still pretty neat. Bummer about the light sockets, at least you got them functional. Also couldn’t help but notice you have an original ignition key.
The lift is to alleviate a parking problem. But is IS a handy tool!
Is this a 12' ceiling?
No. The ceiling is 11'-0". There is about 10" from the roof of the top car to the garage ceiling. And about 12" from the foof of the lower car to the bottom of the runways.
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I got my hood hinges painted. I cleaned up the tail panel a bit, got the wiring finished up to the new light sockets. I used a crimp connection with a heat shrink wrap. Looks ok. There was some surface rust on the tail panel and the paint was worn off at the gas filler. I cleaned and sanded a little and touched up the paint. Looks much better now. When I first started this resto I had planned on a quick paint job then 4 sale. So, I did not give much attention to the rear/trunk area of the car. I am now going over this much better and will re-restore this part. I have cleaned the trunk and now it needs a quick sanding and some paint then it will look pretty good.
One thing I noticed when replacing the springs onto the hood hinges is that I have 2 different size of springs :shock: One is a bit thicker gauge than the other. Not sure why, but I think the thicker gauge is correct. I may order a new replacement for the one side. Up in the air about that right now as I am not sure if the smaller spring will affect the end use that much?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195796703_3465007fa6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6CcZ)20241206_093717 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6CcZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195989275_fa0b63e3cc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz7Bsc)20241208_112900 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz7Bsc) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195795483_5f606b73ce_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6BQX)20241208_120825 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6BQX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195560006_a371998ae1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz5pR1)20241208_120823 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz5pR1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195560006_a371998ae1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz5pR1)20241208_120823 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz5pR1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54194653222_4bb907a236_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qyZLhN)20241208_120831 (https://flic.kr/p/2qyZLhN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195794518_002eb9df78_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6Byj)20241208_120834 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6Byj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54195813894_4db0518f60_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6Hjo)20241209_163125 (https://flic.kr/p/2qz6Hjo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I will add, another of my many observations restoring these cars, the taillight sockets were deteriorated very badly. The plastic was literally crumbling apart from age.
Also, I hate the torsion trunk spring and put a gas shock in my 77. From the beginning I had planned on doing so with this car as well, hence the board holding the lid open at this point. I went to order one and Ring Bros no longer has it on their website. I need to call and see if I can still get one. I hope I did not make a mistake by skipping the factory rods. No way I want to dig in there at this point.
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I have seen some pretty rusted tail panels, yours looked pretty good even before you cleaned it up.
Hood hinges look nice painted. Until now I never paid attention to the spring sizes. Out of curiosity I measured the diameter on my 1980 TA and both were at 1/4". You could try bolting both hinges to the fenders without the hood attached. If you could bolt some bar stock to the hinges, you could see if they feel much different.
Regarding the taillight sockets, I am not surprised the plastic disintegrates. I have noticed some of the plastic interior pieces on my car have become pretty brittle and not very flexible. MAybe chemical changes over time. The heat generated from the bulbs probably didn't help either.
I hope you are successful finding the gas struts for the trunk lid.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54197869803_cc7351ee5e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qzhft6)20241211_091143 (https://flic.kr/p/2qzhft6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54197884179_eff766f29d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qzhjJX)20241211_091315(0) (https://flic.kr/p/2qzhjJX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I was just looking for another part I need and thought about posting my go to. This is my well worn Ames catalogue that is my go to. I suppose by now it looks like a well used textbook :grin: I put a yellow post it on the top of the page for a part I need or would like to get. Not in any order. I also highlight that part on the page. Once I order the part if that is the only one on that page I put the post to the side of the page, to be used later. This particular book has been my buddy for a couple of years now. It sits on the table right beside me desk and is within an easy reach at anytime I am on the computer. Im not sure that is a good thing or bad :shock: I have not totaled my purchases up and probably dont want to know.
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Larry, one of the big reasons why I even bothered with this car (besides it being a 4 sp) was that it was pretty much rust free. There was some surface rust but it was pretty light, not even cutting into the metal. There was an accident at some time and the pass side quarter was replaced. They did a pretty good job and I wasnt concerned about tearing into the previous work when I was painting. There was a very small area on the passenger side floor that had to be replaced as well as a small spot on one of the front fender bottoms if I recall. Its been a long time since I was at that point.
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Hate to say I have lost track. I will have to read back and see if there has been any progress made :grin:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54229339012_277e4da203_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qC4xaE)20241227_111227 (https://flic.kr/p/2qC4xaE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Tail lights back in, got the trunk cleaned and painted, installed a new liner. Got the spare in (still needs cleaned up) temporarily, jack is painted and ready to go.
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Next big thing on the list to do is getting the doors finalized. I took the pass side glass out and put new hardware on years ago. I took the rest of the tracks out, cleaned and painted and ready to re-install. I did a bench test on my window motor but decided to put new ones in just because. I also am in the process of installing a remote keyless entry lock on the doors. I will explain that a bit further on. I took off work Christmas week and got the work on the window parts finished, then I had to wait for the motors to arrive. Everything ready to go, went back to work then it got bitter cold. Might get some shop time tomorrow to get the pass side finished up before I dig into the dr. door.
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I will add, I hooked up the wire for the trunk light and it works :grin: as well as the remote trunk button in the glove box, I screwed the dome light into place which created a ground so that is working, replaced the bulb in the pass side footwell light and that is working. As far as I can tell all the little stuff like that is working as it should, along with the door open buzzer.
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I have been trying to figure out how to spin the wheels safely so that I can try to refinish them. Being a big dish I figured they would be easier than the snowflakes. I do not have a big lathe. One night it hit. Probably one of the most ghetto wheel restoration methods on the planet. I set it on my cement mixer. It spins about 30rpm, the wheel fits perfectly and gravity holds it into place. I started with 60 gr paper and worked my way up to 2000. First wheel turned out pretty nice, though it could use some more work. Its a slow process but overall I probably have less than 2 hours into this one. I media blasted the backside to clean that part up. Still need to finish it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54207849586_2cbe54790c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qAap7j)20241214_132837 (https://flic.kr/p/2qAap7j) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Those wheels turned out great, as far as turbos go, I was never a fan of them but the cement mixer was an awesome idea. Please post how the window instillation and adjustment goes. I have been fighting my drivers side for awhile now to adjust
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Yes, I think the turbo wheels are a love it/hate it thing. Personally I like them. I also like the 'bowling ball' caps on the 3rd gen t/a. They are similar but different. I have put the wheels on hold for the time being. Part of my A.D.D. I think. I switched my focus to the doors at this point.
I had a pro company restore the snowflakes on my 77, cost was $120 ea and they did all 4 in less than a 24 hr turn around. SO, I figured if I could find something similar for these wheels that would be great. I let one 'pro' look at them and he said he couldnt do them? WTH IF some hobo like me with a cement mixer can get them to look good, I would think a pro could make them look great :shock: I was media blasting the back sides with success but the cheapo syphon gun I had was getting clogged from the condensation. I was running it too hard too fast. My thought process at this point is to get the backs media blasted and cleaned up then check with another pro to see if they can turn them for me. If not no biggie, just gonna take a bit to get them nice and shiny.
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Just because, window motor cleaned up. I let the gear sit for awhile in evaporust gel, then water wash with a brass brush. Lubed back up. I am using the new motor and will put this one on the shelf as a spare though I doubt I will ever need it.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54260646440_42b7891e82_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEPZLU)20250111_115040 (https://flic.kr/p/2qEPZLU) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Old motor on the left new one on the right
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I ordered a new decal for the hook, hasnt come in yet.
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Your attention to detail is amazing!
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Thank you, "Its a blessing and a curse" :lol:
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Ya, it would be really great if you would come to my shop and finish all the small stuff on my car... I just can't focus on it. I just drive it because it's drivable. I should have installed or made operational all the little stuff before I made it drivable. But then it probably wouldn't be on the road at all. 😀
Keep at it! It all looks great!. Oh, Harbor freight sells a air line dryer but it is like $500 or something but does wonders for media blasters and painting. I picked up a used one for almost nothing. They are awesome!
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Yes Luke, that is one of my problems obsessing over the small stuff. I know once its on the road I wont take the time or effort to work on those details thats why I want to get as much finished as possible before I start driving. There are a few small items on my 77 that I would like to address. My plan is once Im driving this one I can put the black car in the shop for the few fixes.
I have been waiting on some parts that finally came in, and then the weather turned cold. Highs in the mid 20's. We have been lucky the last few years in that our winter work has been inside. Well as luck has changed, most of our stuff is outside right now. After being in the cold for 6 or 7 hours I get home, take a warm shower and sit on the couch. Nothing going on in the shop. I did manage to squeeze in some time this morning. My focus right now is on the pass side door. New glass guides installed, new plastic clips on the lock rod (old ones were gone and one was broke). Outside handle installed and lock installed. I got a keyless door lock opener and finished up the wiring on that today as well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275903610_c040c4ffa8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGbccy)20250119_121907 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGbccy) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275721944_69a3ce5670_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGagco)20250119_124819 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGagco) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275474076_5bfd680201_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG8ZvN)20250119_122906 (https://flic.kr/p/2qG8ZvN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I bought a keyless lock settup just because. The installation was pretty easy. First thing, drill out the rivets holding the existing lock in place.
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The 2 large ones stacked vertically at the bottom of the door
Old actuator pops right out. New one goes into place. For now the existing wires are not used and a new set of wires needs to be routed through the kick panel area into the existing wire boot. Hooking the new actuator up is a couple of screws, easy peasy.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54275502511_80d0fa6a2c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qG98Y4)20250104_113816 (https://flic.kr/p/2qG98Y4) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Old actuator. No idea if this works, I will have to do a bench test.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54260483199_a7d8d486a6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEPafp)20250111_124238 (https://flic.kr/p/2qEPafp) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New one in place. About half the size and chinzy plastic.
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Getting the pass side kick panel trim off was the hardest part. Route the new wire from the fuse box area across the inside of the dash. I did have to take the inner glove box out which required taking the glove box door off. There is a new harness with an antennae that hooks up to a battery hot slot in the fuse box.
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I don’t know, despite chilly weather you keep making good progress, knocking out one thing after another. Having most the interior, door panels and glass out makes it a good time to tackle projects like this. I like the idea of adding a keyless door lock system to the car. What definitely used to be considered a luxury item, we expect it today. You made a comment about the new actuator being tiny and made out of plastic. That’s progress, everything is smaller and made of plastic. It won’t rust, probably draws less current and takes less space.
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I am guessing you could add this even to a car that originally didn't have power locks? Can you post where you got it?
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Yes, def can be added to a car without existing power locks. The system is made by Klassic Keyless and I bought it from Ames. Its not cheap at around $240 but I figured since I had everything apart I may as well. I actually bought it about 3 or 4 years ago and it has been sitting in my office until just recently. I even had to replace the fob batterys as they had gone bad. If you do not have power in your door they supply a small rubber boot to route the wires. I used existing. The one thing I need to call them about is to see if I can splice the original harness into the new system, otherwise there is no need for power door switches.
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Yes, def can be added to a car without existing power locks. The system is made by Klassic Keyless and I bought it from Ames. Its not cheap at around $240 but I figured since I had everything apart I may as well. I actually bought it about 3 or 4 years ago and it has been sitting in my office until just recently. I even had to replace the fob batterys as they had gone bad. If you do not have power in your door they supply a small rubber boot to route the wires. I used existing. The one thing I need to call them about is to see if I can splice the original harness into the new system, otherwise there is no need for power door switches.
Thanks!
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I may have to get that too. One of my doors was from Florida and for some reason didn't have power locks. I'll have to drill no mater what and all of my actuators are in really poor shape. Might as well install something new instead of 46 years old....
I'll have to go searching for those, or something like it.
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I put the lock cylinder and handle in. It was kinda stiff to turn the key. I figured at the least maybe some lube on the door latch/lock. Looked a bit closer and it seemed a bit crusty, SO I figured as far as I have gone this thing may as well come out for a refresh as well. I am glad I did as it looked so much worse than what I could have imagined. Installed inside the dark recesses of the door shell it didnt look all that bad, but on the workbench :shock:, well thats another story.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54278977852_a770c4d633_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGrX4J)20250120_132312 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGrX4J) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54280103453_89032e1769_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGxHED)20250120_132532 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGxHED) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54280102099_bf01c5d0aa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGxHgi)20250120_132527 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGxHgi) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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The inside levers were just ok, with some minor pitting. I did not want to go to the extreme and trouble of replacing. I found it was easier to remove it along with the door latch so out it came as well. The backer plate is surface rust so I figured on cleaning it as well. I needed a couple of small parts so placed the order and saw the new inside handles are only $11 :shock: I thought that was pretty reasonable, heck my wife spends more than that at starbucks every morning! So I ordered up a couple of those as well. The catalogue says good quality so I am hoping for the best. IF the old ones clean up and look better or at least that much better made I may re-use them.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54278978192_0c8a920b4c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGrXaA)20250120_132235 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGrXaA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54280287000_ff42caea79_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGyEef)20250120_133658 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGyEef) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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After an overnight bath. Should be good enough for some lube now. I am planning on using wd40, or maybe a teflon spray. I have found that white lithium is good for the window tracks but is a bit gummy for something that needs a quick release action like the door lock and hood lock. Something thinner does a much better job.
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Looking good Kerry!
Did you use Evaporust or Charlie's home brew?
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I should clarify, I use Evaporust as a generic term, but it is actually a product. I have used it extensively with great results. For these products and the window regulator I used Rustoleum brand's equivalent. I am not sure off hand what they call it, maybe just a Rust remover. The nice thing about this product is that its a gel. It works on vertical surfaces pretty good. I just sprayed it all over and it pretty much just sits in place and does its job. The Evaporust is liquid and the part needs to be completely submerged to do anything. It seems like you do not need to use as much with the gel, however with the liquid I will put it back in the container and re-use it. Something the gel cannot do. So I guess in the long run they even out.
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WD40 is not a lubricant, it acts as a poor one briefly then evaporates.
Lubriplate is what GM specs for stuff like that.
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Thanks, I will see what the lubriplate compares to off the shelf. Unless of course I could get the real thing.
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Only place I saw ten years ago was Amazon, and you had to get a large/expensive tub IIRC.
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A picture is worth a thousand words! It has to be very rewarding to be at the point of bolting together beautifully restored, shiny new and NOS parts. I am guessing the temperature in your shop is tolerable or you’re able to work with stiffing fingers!
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Car is looking great. I had never even thought about keyless entry even being an option to do, but may just have to open up my Ames catalog haha,
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Looks great! Did you use the original or new screws for the weather strip? Just be careful when you raise the window and ensure the screw isn't hitting the glass....ask me how I know :-?
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The window rub strip is not installed yet :(, I just set it into place for the pic. But I will be installing it very soon in the next couple of days I hope. I used a small light gauge steel stud screw to install the ones in my 77 with no problems. I have them by the thousands :lol: They are pretty close to original.
I started to clean the original door handle when I saw Ames had them for $11! The catalogue says 'good' quality. One thing I like about Ames is that they will describe their parts truthfully. So I was figuring on the worse case being only good. They do look very nice and have a good feel about them. I think they are a good+ if nothing else. They also match the original in fit and finish as well.
It was still pretty cold when I was doing this work, but tolerable. With the overhead heater and the propane pot heater I had the shop to about 50deg which is fine with me. A little bit warmer would be nice but it sure beat the 20deg that was outside.
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Its been super cold here also. My garage is getting spray foamed but it has to be above 32 degrees to do it, of course, we haven't been close to that. Hopfully it will be done mid Feb asw I am losing time on getting stuff done on the car before cruise season
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The spray foam is nice. I wish I had gone that route. I have my ceiling insulated and paneled with steel. 1 long wall on the north side is insulated and drywall and painted. One gable end is half butt insulated, drywall and painted. It abuts to my garage so that helps too. The other long wall and the outside gable are about 1/4 insulated and no finish. I have loaded those walls with shelves and tools hanging so its a big project to insulate and finish at this point. I will get to it eventually :o. The building holds heat pretty good considering, but I can imagine it would be so much nicer if everything was done properly.
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The spray foam is nice. I wish I had gone that route. I have my ceiling insulated and paneled with steel. 1 long wall on the north side is insulated and drywall and painted. One gable end is half butt insulated, drywall and painted. It abuts to my garage so that helps too. The other long wall and the outside gable are about 1/4 insulated and no finish. I have loaded those walls with shelves and tools hanging so its a big project to insulate and finish at this point. I will get to it eventually :o. The building holds heat pretty good considering, but I can imagine it would be so much nicer if everything was done properly.
It helps that the company my wife works at does the foam spray.... :D
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Dave, years ago I was constructing a new town hall building. It was about 10k sf all flat roof. At the time there was a local guy that did spray foam insulation. He also would spray it on flat roofs with a rubberized coating for waterproofing. When they did my job which was right in the middle of a town, they ended up with overspray on a car. I think the owner was looking for a new paint job. It was a 1930's era street rod with an old tired paint job. Anyway, the only time I ever saw the car or even knew about it was the day they sprayed the roof and he pulled it out of his garage and parked it in the alley next to the jobsite. Of course he came to me a couple of days later complaining 'I' had ruined the paint on his car and he had some kind of stupid estimate for a repaint. I simply passed this to the foam guy. He laughed and said "I once sprayed an entire parking lot in Ocean City". He told the guy to park the car outside in the sun for a couple of days and the product would turn to powder, then he would pay for a wax job. I have no idea whatever came of it but every time I hear about spray foam I remember this.
Now, back to the regular scheduled program :cool:
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LOL. someone always looking to game the system
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Finally got back here, and need-ta catch up on your progress. Will this be the summer of cruising?
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I'm caught up again
I love this car!
This would be my crowning jewel if I ever had the opportunity to own one but the likelihood of that happening are very slim. Not impossible but definitely slim.
Doing a masterful job sir!!
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I need to catch up but at least see that you have you car back.
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I've been MIA but your build caught my eye...awesome man! Keep after it.
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Yes I hope to be cruising this summer 8)
I got the pass side door finished up. Window installed and working. I jumped the power off of my battery charger as the switch is not hooked up yet. I bought some relays and want to go that route along with a new switch. I took the dr. side door insides apart today for their time on the bench. Started the rust removal soak and clean up of the tracks. I bought new window hardware years ago and it took a bit of digging but I did find it. I searched everywhere for the special tool to remove the window parts with no luck. Came back into the office and there it was behind my desk. Since I know what Im doing this time around I went ahead and drilled out the inside handle and the old power door lock motor. I have all of the rebuild parts and hope to get this door finished in a week or two.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54303280474_5172042e4d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJAvos)20250202_151438 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJAvos) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54302168732_37921db4fa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJuNUu)20250202_154101 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJuNUu) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54303040621_269f64904e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJzh64)20250202_154142 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJzh64) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54303283963_4d5d18bb0f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJAwqB)20250202_163627 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJAwqB) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54303471915_da73c9bbf3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJBuia)20250202_155014 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJBuia) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Discard/put in a box and sit on a shelf pile.
And the sticker finally came in for my jack(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54301135314_eca0e9e55e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJpvGW)20250201_171602 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJpvGW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54301144908_2b3e2dec33_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJpyym)20250201_172046 (https://flic.kr/p/2qJpyym) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I learned this trick here on TAC a long time ago. A spray paint dab at the bolt heads will let me put the tracks back in their original position. This should help with installation.
I started to clean the glass and it has the typical line of scratches. More than what I am comfortable with. So I am going to look for replacement glass. I would rather stick with original and may end up doing so but............
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Do you think the scratches may buff out?
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I doubt it. I think there was discussion about that on here, as well as there was a very long winded one on the aaca forum. With some pro glass guys chiming in. The bottom line was that if you can catch your fingernail on them they are too deep. I am going to continue with the clean up and see what it looks like. The pass side window was pretty good, it had a couple of small spots but because I have heard bad things about the repro glass I wanted to keep it. I am afraid the dr side may just be too far gone. If that is the case I will order a pair. Theres no way I am going to put one side in new and leave the other old. I put new glass in my 77 and to me seeing old glass in a restored car is a big detraction. That glass fit fine but then again that was probably 10 years ago! I will make some calls tomorrow.
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Good luck with the glass. The ones I got from NPD were not curved the same as the originals and I had to remove some of the guides just to get them to operate at all. We once had a thread on all of the side glass out there. Hope you find some that are close to the originals.
These cars all had the same problem. I have probably 5 sets of door glass and they all have deep scratches from worn felt or something in them.
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Yes, the metal guides that are wrapped in felt seem to be a common problem. The felt wears down after awhile and I suppose the amount of work for the repair was not worth it on a 15-20 yr old car. Guys just lived with it and as a result all of us poor slobs trying to keep them alive now are stuck with not so good glass :lol:
I ordered the ones for my black car from auto city classics. They did fit nice. They have door glass for $130 with $35 shipping. I am going to give them a call and see what their return policy is. If the curve doesnt match I will send them back. I have bought all of my glass from these guys and the service and price has been great and they have been very good to deal with. I think they usually go to Carlisle which is not really that far away. If so I may just do a pickup there and save on shipping. I have plenty of other things that can be done in the meanwhile, need to look at things from different angles right now
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My drivers side glass is a mess, the passenger side is good. Honestly, my windows are down 99.9% of the time in the summer so replacing them is pretty far down on the list.
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I just bit the bullet and ordered a new set. They came out to $160 per side. Not that I wanted to spend 320 on glass but the dr side was just too bad to put in. I hardly ever put the glass up in my 77 and I doubt I will in this car, but it will drive me crazy knowing that I did as much work to this thing as I have and not put a new piece of glass in when it was the best time to do so. I also ordered some replacement "felt" to fix the window track that has deteriorated. So I am back to waiting on parts to continue with the door at this point. I can get to work on my window switch wiring if nothing else.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54320144965_925d211f39_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5WBx)20250210_150221 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5WBx) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54318837022_2aa57090e4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKYeNN)20250210_150238 (https://flic.kr/p/2qKYeNN) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
It was hard to take a pic of the scratches, but the 'buff' marks are the main reason why I am replacing. There are a couple more long scratches as well.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54319962368_15ac9f3bbc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL51kj)20250208_134900 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL51kj) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54319731151_c3c724bc90_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL3PAP)20250210_150150 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL3PAP) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54319732906_929095274d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL3Q85)20250208_121450 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL3Q85) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54319732146_fe890cefbb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL3PTY)20250208_125557 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL3PTY) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54320146950_f9c6e9f7df_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5XcL)20250208_131148 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5XcL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Anyone that wonders why their original windows may be slow, the gunk build up is horrible and the grease solidifies!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54320146700_7da52d1111_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5X8s)20250208_132038 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL5X8s) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54319967394_dbe38ac1d7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL52PY)20250208_132436 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL52PY) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Door latch rod cleaned up with new sound deadening sleeve.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54319963373_eb89fa458a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qL51CD)20250208_123831 (https://flic.kr/p/2qL51CD) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Rub pad that needs replaced.
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Kerry, those window tracks look great! I bet your windows will work great!
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Looks great! For the level of detail you are doing, I would replace the glass also, for my car, she will just have to live with it for awhile =)
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I just bit the bullet and ordered a new set. They came out to $160 per side. Not that I wanted to spend 320 on glass but the dr side was just too bad to put in. I hardly ever put the glass up in my 77 and I doubt I will in this car, but it will drive me crazy knowing that I did as much work to this thing as I have and not put a new piece of glass in when it was the best time to do so.
Talking to a carpenter, I would say “you hit the nail right on the head”. There will never be a better time for cleaning up and lubing the mechanism or replacing the glass. I think we all know of some spot on our cars that’s not 100%. While someone else may not notice that, our eyes tend to be drawn to it. Being a perfectionist is a blessing and a curse! In the long run I know you will be glad you did it.
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Parts are cleaned and painted. Some misc hardware bits have shipped from Ames, I expect them Thurs or Fri. Also received confirmation that the glass has shipped from Minnesota. Once everything is here I should be good to go for a couple of days :grin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54321809230_570dacb963_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLetkL)20250211_140137 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLetkL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Fantastic work Kerry! So when are you going to sell this car to me? :lol:
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:grin:
When I first started this project it was to be a quick paint job, throw some stuff together and sell. I have a friend locally that has a 66 gto. He bought a 1979 formula brand new. It was stolen and he ended up with some scrap parts off of it. A 79 trans am is his dream car. We have joked multiple times about doing a trade once I was finished, his '66 for my '79. As much as I have put into this car I would have to think a long time on that one. His car is a nice driver but for my tastes it would have to go under the knife for a full restoration :shock:
We are seriously looking for a new suv for my wife now that I have scrapped the faithful expedition. She tells me the other night that she was considering trading her mustang! That was a major shock as that car is her baby. She said the new car WILL NOT sit outside! AND she will not park her mustang outside, thus we are running out of garage space. She also said that I dont need 2 trans ams either and once the silver car is done one has to go :sad: NEW FLASH: Its time to build a bigger garage, I am not parting with either car :lol:
I have been thinking about a 4 post lift for parking because the reality is that I AM running out of space. I have 10 bays worth of parking and no room.
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:grin:
When I first started this project it was to be a quick paint job, throw some stuff together and sell. I have a friend locally that has a 66 gto. He bought a 1979 formula brand new. It was stolen and he ended up with some scrap parts off of it. A 79 trans am is his dream car. We have joked multiple times about doing a trade once I was finished, his '66 for my '79. As much as I have put into this car I would have to think a long time on that one. His car is a nice driver but for my tastes it would have to go under the knife for a full restoration :shock:
We are seriously looking for a new suv for my wife now that I have scrapped the faithful expedition. She tells me the other night that she was considering trading her mustang! That was a major shock as that car is her baby. She said the new car WILL NOT sit outside! AND she will not park her mustang outside, thus we are running out of garage space. She also said that I dont need 2 trans ams either and once the silver car is done one has to go :sad: NEW FLASH: Its time to build a bigger garage, I am not parting with either car :lol:
I have been thinking about a 4 post lift for parking because the reality is that I AM running out of space. I have 10 bays worth of parking and no room.
You have so much time invested in your TATA, I bet you would forever regret parting with it. I am kind of surprised your family members aren't jealous of the time you spend with it!
Not that it would solve all your problems, a four-post lift sure would come in handy for doing undercarriage work, without laying on your back. I am envious of all the space in your shop and high ceilings.
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Oh, I had no idea you were actually toying with the idea of selling! I was just teasing since the level of detail that you have invested is amazing. I completely understand though, I think if selling my car frequently. I'm all over the place though.
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No thoughts of selling at all at this point.
Yes, my son has been wanting a lift so he can do some of his own maintenance work on his car. I can maybe sell the idea to my wife if I say that he and I are going halvsies on it :grin: I will have to get her a new car first though, LOL. I had to buy her the Mustang after I got the 77 on the road. The 79 is really close but that has nothing to do with getting her a daily driver. I despise buying cars (unless theyre junk of course, and Trans Ams) and I hate a monthly payment. I bought a used expedition almost 10 years ago as a second work truck. I paid a little over 4k for it. It has been a great vehicle. But the frame is now rusted, the emissions was going to cost more than what I wanted to put into it. So I took the tags off and it now needs to head to the scrap yard. She wants a small suv as a daily driver so she can quit driving her mustang everyday. She was laid off from her job of 20 years in Aug so it wasnt really a big deal not having a DD. She has recently landed a great job and is ready for her 'new car'. I may budget a 4 post into the price of the new one 8)
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:grin:
When I first started this project it was to be a quick paint job, throw some stuff together and sell. I have a friend locally that has a 66 gto. He bought a 1979 formula brand new. It was stolen and he ended up with some scrap parts off of it. A 79 trans am is his dream car. We have joked multiple times about doing a trade once I was finished, his '66 for my '79. As much as I have put into this car I would have to think a long time on that one. His car is a nice driver but for my tastes it would have to go under the knife for a full restoration :shock:
No disrespect intended, cause you're doin a great job on your bird, but I wouldn't think twice about the GTO swap. A 79, for a 66 Goat? He probably wouldn't do it. Depending on his car, (its drivetrain, and condition), I believe it would be more valuable, and will only increase over time. Of course it basically depends on your likes. I've had 5 Goats over my lifetime, (2 of them were daily drivers for 10 yrs, over 2 different decades) and the only reason I haven't tackled another GTO, was because of my 2 T/As, and the price of "any" GTO is insane. Even for a condition 5 car. But a 70 455, 4 spd is on my bucket list.
But back to your doors. I just stripped out a passenger door last fall, to junk the rotted sheet metal shell. I think I still have some glass, maybe hrdware. Let me know if you need anything. Maybe I can find something you can use, and have. (Probably a little too much too late.)
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I agree on the value thing. His car is a nice driver, has a replacement 400 motor, I think originally a '66 would have been a 389. It is a 4 speed and a legit GTO. I really like it. But he has had it for quite a few years and I really think if push came to shove he would keep it over my 79. I do have a 66 chevelle to work on IF I ever get this T/A finished, not quite the same as a gto but close. I have the same mind set with that car right now as I had when I started this tata build. I would like to finish it nice enough and sell. Then maybe I could look for a GTO.
I had a guy approach me several years ago at an all Pontiac show. He had a 1970 lemans convertible. It was really nice. He wanted to trade me for my 77. Both cars were in equal condition. I wasnt ready to let it go for a lemans. If it was a GTO, maybe. I thought he was joking but before the show let out he approached me again. I politely declined. A couple of years later at another all Pontiac show he was there and came up to me. Asked if I remembered him of which I did. He still had the offer on the table. I had to turn him down again.
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Ordered glass on Monday, it was on my doorstep Friday. Minnesota to Maryland, shipping was $50. I didnt think that was too bad.
Well packed, and nowhere on the box did it say fragile, glass, handle with care etc. I suppose they figure if they put that on there it will purposely be damaged :?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54328365927_95f25a0fb4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLP5qg)20250215_104104 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLP5qg) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54328365507_d3a09465ba_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLP5i2)20250215_104556 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLP5i2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54329491363_3469584b89_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLUQYk)20250215_105425 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLUQYk) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54328864307_87dd067e09_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLRCz2)20250215_105707 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLRCz2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54329992838_88b2cbc8b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXq3s)20250215_113157 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXq3s) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54329992838_88b2cbc8b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXq3s)20250215_113157 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXq3s) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I made a cardboard template to measure the curve of the original and put it against the new piece. It was as perfect a match as could be, so I felt pretty good about that after hearing horror stories about the repro glass. I got the new hardware installed and its ready to go.
I started to put the misc items back on the driver door. I installed the keyless lock actuator, the cleaned door lock/latch, lock rod, outside lock, etc. I bought new nuts for the new door handle but they do not work. I think I read at some point that one of them is metric the other standard. Will have to run into town tomorrow to get the right ones. I installed the window regulator with the new motor. Here is where the fun starts. I DID NOT bench test like I did on the pass side. No reason, just didnt do it. It works ok going up, but it will not go down unless I add some pressure. It looks like everything is clear and I cannot see where it may be binding. It was time to let it sit for the night, look at it with fresh eyes in the morning. I hope I dont have to take it back out but I will if need be.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54329771296_44ea2b5d23_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLWhbL)20250215_143955 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLWhbL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54329991254_23994fc7a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXpz9)20250215_144717 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXpz9) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New nylon bushings at door lock rod. Door lock was super stiff, but the latch itself was working nicely. I figured it must be the bushings. I took them out and ran a drill through them to open up a bit and a spot of grease. The lock rod works perfect now.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54329992038_bccbe909bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXpNE)20250215_145928 (https://flic.kr/p/2qLXpNE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Here is my ginormous rivet gun :-D
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54331491876_0ba5ce53f2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qM66DW)20250216_122733 (https://flic.kr/p/2qM66DW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The felt rub strip was 'bald' on the window guide channel. This part is riveted into place and I did not want to take it off. I searched hi and lo for replacement 'felt' only to be looking through the Ames catalogue and found they had replacement felt for the window guide clips.
First was to remove the old stuff. I used a razor to cut most of it out. There is a thin metal plate that this stuff attaches to. The edges are folded over the 'felt'. I used a small flat screwdriver to pry it open, then flattened the edges with a pair of plyers after I cleaned everything up.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54331898575_2d784428ae_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qM8bxZ)20250216_123824 (https://flic.kr/p/2qM8bxZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54330585652_8c77b746f6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qM1sgo)20250216_123927 (https://flic.kr/p/2qM1sgo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54331718723_9b69b45017_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qM7g66)20250216_124243 (https://flic.kr/p/2qM7g66) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54331714309_83e2979d72_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qM7eLZ)20250216_125221 (https://flic.kr/p/2qM7eLZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
New piece has a sticky back. I cut to fit, stuck it in place and bent the sides back down with the plyers, a small hammer and a nail set. Not the prettiest thing, I was kinda rushing it but I think it will work just fine. And its better than the wore out piece.
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Got the proper metric nuts for the outside door handle and installed. I drilled the rivets out again, and removed the regulator. I cannot see any reason why it is acting the way it is. I pulled out the old motor and both the old and new one work fine on the bench. I can move the regulator freely on the bench. Hooked up the new motor barely moves it without my help. The old motor will move it but slowly. I am using an old battery charger for power that is 6 amps max. I am hoping that is the problem. Again, I had to leave the shop. Letting it sit may make it better :lol:
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If you are just using a charger and no battery, it may not be enough. Can you measure the output voltage of the charger when you are lowering or raising the window? It should be roughly 12 volts or higher. Can you use a car battery as your power source instead of the. Charger? You should use a fully charged battery that would read 12.5 volts or more with no load on the battery.
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Absolutely. A charger won't run them.
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Yes, talking with Larry we have pretty much decided that the charger hopefully is the problem. Although my charger is putting out a consistent 12V with no load, once hooked to the motor and running the regulator the charger is only putting out about 8V.
That and the fact that I do not have the glass in which would add some counterweight to the spring. I went ahead and put everything back in place, AGAIN. What had me concerned is that the charger worked fine on the pass side. I started wiring up the relays for the window switch. Almost finished with that mess. Once that is done I should be able to operate the windows the way they were meant to be.
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Interesting. Must be a pretty good sized charge. Plus it has to be old if it doesn't have the dang sensing technology. Hopefully it's all good.
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Luke, the battery charger I am using is a Sears model. It has dual output 4 amp and 6 amp. I put my multimeter on it and on the 4 amp setting it was putting out about 9V +/-, on the 6 amp setting it was putting out about 12V +/-. Again under the load of the window motor it did drop off. OLD, I guess you can call it that. I remember 'us kids' giving it to Dad for either his birthday or fathers day one year. Pop has been gone for 22 years :sad: I know I was maybe 3rd or 4th grad when we got it. So that would have been 1972/1974 era. Yes, its OLD, LOL.
As far as progress, I got the relays wired up for the window motors. I need to get the main power feed hooked up and the grounds wired together then that will be finished. It got cold here this week (like most places I think) and although I have heat in the shop it wasnt worth firing it up for a couple of hours after work. It takes a good 40 minutes to get up to comfort level at which about that time I would be ready to go back into the house for the evening. I think tomorrow looks like I should have some good shop time. Hope to get some things accomplished.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54344086074_99ee5eb485_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qNcDth)20250222_140418 (https://flic.kr/p/2qNcDth) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Luke, this is my charger. After all of these years I though it was a Sears :shock:, maybe we bought it there? If not there it would have been the local Western Auto.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54344094119_53a914c52c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qNcFRZ)20250222_144322 (https://flic.kr/p/2qNcFRZ) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54344112038_97f0f50348_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qNcMbW)20250222_143935 (https://flic.kr/p/2qNcMbW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54344299025_de088e48f2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qNdJLR)20250222_143928 (https://flic.kr/p/2qNdJLR) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Driver door is finished! New glass in, power door lock etc. Everything wired up permanently.
Relays for the windows are finished!
The next big thing is to get the stereo hooked up. I think that should do it for wiring then I can start the closeup of the interior.
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Yay! I need to adjust my drivers side glass and for whatever reason it's just a task I don't want to do
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Looking really good Kerry! That door is perfect! I can't wait to see it all completed! Maybe one day I can drive or maybe Dayton sometime but I want to see both of them!
My large 200A charger on wheels came from Western Auto. Been a minute since I head that name.
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Having the stripe on the door like that, really starts to tie it all together. Also makes it exciting as the end is near!!
Love it!!
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I agree Charlie, it surprised me how much a difference just putting the stripe on made. I cant wait to get the rest of the striped out.
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Looking great Kerry! Looks like she's getting close to being roadworthy.
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2 tires are just ok and 2 are bad. Not even good enough for me to be comfortable driving down the lane. I started looking a few weeks ago for some new rubber. Once I get new tires on its time for a test drive. Then I saw that my work truck was getting desperate for tires instead. So I ordered 4 new goodyears for that. 3 of which came in yesterday :shock: The fedex guy said the 4th one should be around anytime now :-?
This past Monday, my truck died at the job site. Turned the key and nothing. Luckily there was no tow bill as I have AAA. I picked it up from the shop yesterday afternoon all fixed and ready to go. The transmission position switch went bad to the tune of $1300. Needless to say between the tires and the trans the TATA budget is taking a hit for a couple of weeks.
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Kerry, I hope that dark cloud that has been hanging over all your vehicle issues blows away soon. In the meantime, once your TATA is ready for a quick trip down the road you could always borrow the tires and wheels off your 77.
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Not a bad idea :D
The 4th tire for my truck arrived today.
TATA work continues: Working on audio. One of the original parts I did not have for the car was the radio. I bought one (I apologize as it has been awhile) from a member on here but forget whom that was. It has been on a shelf in my office for many years now, me patiently staring at it waiting for the day when I can see it in the dash belting out some Lynyrd Skynyrd!!
SO, getting it ready to go I notice that the power plug in the back is missing. There are 3 plugs, 1=power, 2=front speaker, 3=rear speakers. Did some quick looking and found a new compatible plug on Amazon. Got it the other day and of course it was the wrong part. I need the male adapter and I got the female adapter. A quick phone call and I was able to get the part no. of what I needed. Back to amazon and a day later the part is on my stoop. To the shop and a miracle IT FITS :lol: I hook up power and another miracle the face lights up :lol: :lol: No antennae but hooking up the speakers (thanks Larry) I have static. Another good sign. Looking around on the net a bit I found someone that may be able to do a conversion to modern guts and I am strongly thinking about going that route. I am waiting back for answer right now.
I had a buddy that used a guy in FLA and he was very happy with the work, however that particular fellow will not work on a radio with a built in tape player.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54365962728_95cb736436_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQ8LCY)20250304_160334 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQ8LCY) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Radio is in the car and working as it should :grin: Albeit it is just temporarily hooked up at this point. 5thTA was kind enough to give me a couple of speakers seen in this pic hooked up. I tried hooking up to the speakers in the car but nothing. SO, I need to dig into that a little deeper. May need to run some new wires. I am leaning towards taking them out and putting the ones I know work in. I need to figure out the wiring a bit better and get my antennae hooked up before I tackle the installation. That will be fun all on its own :shock:
There is a fellow on the AACA forum that rebuilds GM antennae's. He informed that there is something plastic inside the power ant. that deteriorates with time and will break. He replaces that with a metal part. He said even though mine is NOS and never used he has still seen them fail. So I sent it off to him for a rebuild. It should be back any day now at which time I can get it hooked up.
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Thats cool. That radio has to be pretty valuable! Would hate to have to source that.
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Luke I was lucky to get it from a member on here a few years ago. I honestly forget who it was :sad: I dont think the price was too bad. I was looking on ebay for the wire connector and there are a few on there but most are listed as parts only.
It was actually harder to find the am/fm for my 77 than this one. Speaking of which, the radio in that car has never been hooked up. IF I ever get this silver car finished I would like to put the black one in the shop over the winter and clean up some details that were overlooked the first time around. Getting the radio working is one of those things.
That is one of the reasons why I am trying my hardest to make sure everything is working on the TATA before it leaves the shop.
Most of the original parts came with the car with the exception of a few things and of course they were probably the hardest things to source. Missing parts I had to find:
1. Mirrored T Tops
2. Correct Carb
3. Radio
Fortunately the drive train was complete and original to the car including the 4 speed transmission.
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That awesome! You will have a very valuable car when you're done.
It will also be a stunning car and I don't even like silver cars.
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My TA also came with a power antenna although its long since gone as the left front fender was replaced at some point in it's life. I go back and forth on putting one back into the car just for nostalgia sake.
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In regards to the antennae, the car came with one. I got the NOS from a friend for a favor. It seemed too nice to use so I was going to have my original rebuilt. It looked close but was just different enough from the NOS unit I have. I sent some pics to the guy that was going to rebuild it and he told me it was a Ford unit :shock: I drive Ford cars but I will not have Ford parts in my Pontiac, LOL. So it became a no brainer using the new one.
As well all know most of these came with the built in unit in the windshield. From back in the day I remember them barely working ok. Although I like the uncluttered look of a car without a visible antennae. When I bought a replacement windshield it was impossible to find one without the antennae. SO, I will have both in my car :(
I swapped out the original passenger side glass yesterday with the new one I recently got. I have to say after doing so multiple times, I have that process down pat. I can now do a window swap in about 10 minutes :grin:
Luke, I dont mind silver/grey cars but with the TATA I cannot stand the horrible silver seats! At one time I was going to use a dark grey seat but since I have decided to stick with 100% original I will get what is right. Silver/grey is my wifes least favorite colour on a car as well, though she really could care less about this one. She did want me to paint it another colour at one time until I explained the significance of the paint job.
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Got some work done to the car this morning. Installed the NOS 10ohm speakers. Finally took the old window tray trim out. I had to re-wire the connectors on the stock speakers as the wires were cut to short to splice. Took the old connector apart and soldered in the existing speaker wire. Everything is as it left the factory now. I am starting to get to the point of installing trim. Carpet, and interior plastics. This is just about the last step and not a whole lot left to being finished enough to get it on the road.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371545090_7c4b576d7b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQCo5A)20250307_101531 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQCo5A) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371544710_1e392377c8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQCnY3)20250307_101737 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQCnY3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371544340_4c275363d3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQCnRE)20250307_102912 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQCnRE) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Aftermarket Pioneer speakers that I took out.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371287989_168b0084b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4DP)20250307_103741 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4DP) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371288704_2609b41518_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4S9)20250307_112435 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4S9) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371288984_046eceaa28_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4WY)20250307_112321 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4WY) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54371288524_a28290eb51_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4P3)20250307_112325 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQB4P3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I was surprised and happy to see the bracket in place to hold the jack into place. Rusty in this picture but I have taken it out and painted.
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I got a few things put into place this morning including new rear deck trim temp installed, sill wire covers, door weatherstrip, jack in place and trunk buttoned up again. Also cleaned up the interior trim that I dyed a couple of years ago, had to touch up a couple of pieces and had to dye a rear side panel.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373633213_c2eb5fa2c1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQP5NH)20250308_125323 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQP5NH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373594739_ec5d1c2bfd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQNTnn)20250308_140926 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQNTnn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373594549_e64eb371bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQNTj6)20250308_123017 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQNTj6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54372516212_7ac4c532a9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQHmL5)20250308_141225 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQHmL5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373370258_4b20c11e64_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQMJD1)20250308_115438 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQMJD1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373392459_84e5dda9ee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQMReM)20250308_120440 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQMReM) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373394061_2b329a08f4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQMRHp)20250308_135553 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQMRHp) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373787635_42bc01bdb5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQPSHa)20250308_122018 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQPSHa) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54373594449_286eacfdd6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qQNThn)20250308_140654 (https://flic.kr/p/2qQNThn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Looking good! Black hobnail driver seat, odd choice... 😃
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Looking good! Black hobnail driver seat, odd choice... 😃
[/quot
e]
They're much cheaper than what is supposed to be there, LOL.
When I bought this car the interior was literally packed to the underside of the roof. The guy also had a ton of TA parts that I filled my truck with as he had shifted his focus to a boat and didnt want any of the car stuff. I did get 2 pair of seats. The original TATA's that are just shreds and this set of black hobnails. I put that one is a temp. The ONE HUGE purchase I have been putting off is seat covers. So these black ones may have to do for awhile. At this point I have no idea what the lead time is IF I were to order them today? Honestly I have the money saved up in my piggy bank to get the new seats, I just hate spending it :shock: I know one of these days I am going to have to get the big hammer out and smash the little guy, but its one of those things I keep putting off.
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Looking great!
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Working on int. trim, I retrieved my console from the other garage. Its been sitting there for a couple of years now since I did a rebuild. As a reminder it was literally broke in half. I was going to throw it away but decided to try and salvage for to save a few bucks. I was surprised that it had a couple of cracks :shock: where I made the repairs. I am not sure why. I ground out the cracks put some filler in reinforced with fibreglass tape, sanded with 60 gr then 120 gr then touch up with 220 gr. Using all SEM products, I primed, textured, primed again and colour coat. It came out pretty good, again :???: Found my ashtray, it is surprisingly nice on the outside, inside has a bit of rust so its now sitting with rust removal gel. Same thing with my shifter boot metal ring. It was pretty rusty so it will need a little work.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388791004_8417303101_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS9LFW)20250313_094853 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS9LFW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388601516_072986a4fb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8NmU)20250313_094910 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8NmU) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388834283_2a39d3d73a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS9Zy8)20250313_150023 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS9Zy8) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388792179_fb82b33869_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS9M3c)20250315_124710 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS9M3c) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388603226_828046cc56_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8NSo)20250315_141612 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8NSo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388867308_3900e789dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSaanw)20250315_144637 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSaanw) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388638101_3937f31a4f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8ZeF)20250315_144633 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8ZeF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54388603041_003476afdb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8NPc)20250315_140524 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS8NPc) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54387725337_5cc83406d6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qS4iUn)20250315_141829 (https://flic.kr/p/2qS4iUn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Kerry, forgive me for stepping on your toes here. I don't think people can really appreciate the finished console unless they see what you started with.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7841/32341186147_98c93d2f44_5k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RgT2TH)2019-03-04_05-19-11 (https://flic.kr/p/RgT2TH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7906/33407320668_efa802c8cc_5k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SU6fxo)2019-03-04_05-19-19 (https://flic.kr/p/SU6fxo) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7927/32341198017_115ad3f072_5k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RgT6qn)2019-03-04_05-20-07 (https://flic.kr/p/RgT6qn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Agree 100%. The work you do to make it look new is amazing.
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Awesome job! I can't wait to see this car done, even with the spendy silver interior
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Not at all Larry! I forgot that it was THAT bad, LOL.
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Nice work on the interior Kerry! That console looks great compared to what you started with!
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Kinda just killing time while I was waiting on the antennae to come back. I took the ashtray out and did a once over. Kinda silly as it will most likely never be seen, but I know what it looks like :-D
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54393251541_d98512fe5b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSxCDK)20250317_100239 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSxCDK) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54393250391_a51032da70_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSxCiV)20250317_143717 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSxCiV) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54393249801_1f50bed373_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSxC8K)20250317_143943 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSxC8K) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54393477913_3cfb532bc5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSyMWH)20250317_144503 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSyMWH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54393447219_8fefec81a0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSyCPv)20250317_100053 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSyCPv) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54395649541_24a3bf3493_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSKVuz)20250318_175712 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSKVuz) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54395832034_92ab076c69_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSLRK1)20250318_175822 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSLRK1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54395649911_9d6baacf55_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSKVAX)20250318_175718 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSKVAX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Got my ant. back yesterday. It was a good decision to have it rebuilt. The original plastic cable had dry rotted and was literally crumbling. Quincey gave it her paw of approval :grin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54395644338_a4b9d25f6d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qSKTWS)20250317_163151 (https://flic.kr/p/2qSKTWS) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Kerry you’re a jerk. :D Now I have to do my ashtray! Ugh
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Beautiful job Kerry,
Inquiring minds want to know how you did the transformation? I believe you started with chemical rust remover, but how did you get the shine? Wire brush, buffing wheel and compound? Did you use nickel platting?
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Beautiful job Kerry,
Inquiring minds want to know how you did the transformation? I believe you started with chemical rust remover, but how did you get the shine? Wire brush, buffing wheel and compound? Did you use nickel platting?
X2. Great job. Curious how you accomplished that.
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The bottom inside had some surface rust. I do not think it was ever used as it did not look like there were ever any burns or burnt tobacco (or other substances :lol:) present. I soaked it in Rustoleum rust removal gel. That is where all of the black comes from. A good clean water wash, blow dry with compressed air then a good going over with a steel wire wheel on a high speed drill. I have found the steel wire wheel brings out a nice shine and doesnt alter the finish too much. I also like to use a roloc wheel but that changes the finish tremendously. IF painting thats not a problem. I drilled out the rivets to remove the face trim. Rivet back in place when finished. The slide mechanism comes apart easily enough with a gentle pry on the side. The 4 ball bearings drop right out. There was one rust spot on the bottom inside that had etched into the metal. I could not get it to look good with all amounts of polishing. So, not what I wanted to do but I painted the inside. First coat filler primer, then sand and silver aluminum paint. I should have put another coat of filler but was getting tired of working on this so I rushed along a bit.
Sorry I have made work for you, LOL but after doing this one I thought to myself that now I need to do the one in my black car.
I may have to leave this one in the out position so I can see it :D
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I will ad, I was a bit hesitant to wire wheel at first because it originally had a gold tint from the cladding. I tried cleaning with simple green but it just didnt look good to me. It looked clean but still dingy. I also put just a spec of white lithium (there was traces of dried white lithium in place) on the bearing slide way. It works very smooth now.
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Like everything with this car, simply hooking up the radio and the power ant. has been a challenge. A little back story. There was a power antennae in the car when I got it. After doing some research I found it was a replacement out of a Ford nonetheless. The diff. is the ford has a 2 wire hook up as the relay is built into the antennae. The GM has a 3 way wire hook up as the relay is remote. A few years ago I did a favor for a fellow (which we have since become good friends) I asked for nothing in return. He sent me a NOS in the box power antennae. So, now with the radio hooks up figured out attaching the ant. is next on the list. With the help from some members I was able to locate the relay unit (which by the way is above the glove box light). The inner glove box needs to be removed for access. FYI there is another relay accessible with the removal of the inner glove box to the left side. That is the relay for the rear defrost. Back to the power ant. I was able to trace the wires back to the fuse panel. They were cut but I figured that is good enough as I know what they are now and can attach some new wire to become the connection for the new ant. I had to order a new weather proof 3 wire connector. Another thing to fight with me, the coax plugs and thread to the new ant. There is an adapter for the threads. This does not come with the new ant and is a separate GM part. Fortunately I had the original instructions in the box with a part no. A quick search on ebay and a NOS part is on the way. Once everything shows up I should be able to do a final hook up.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54402902181_aa6ba6ed0a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTp6s6)20250322_115957 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTp6s6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Relay in place
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54403067339_f2e8fab43d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTpWxD)20250322_121234 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTpWxD) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Either one of these stubs is where the coax hooks up. It needs a threaded connection that attaches the mast itself not included.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54403067084_5400687e30_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTpWtf)20250322_122020 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTpWtf) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Instruction sheet that came in the box. Complete with part no. :grin:
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This is the part you are referencing to attach the antenna lead to the antenna mast. If you are looking for one, the background of the photo shows the information as to where I purchased this one. He might have another.
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Thanks for the info. I was able to order one from ebay. A guy in NJ has several as well. I am surprised a part like that was as easily to locate as it was. Then again, I cannot imagine there is a large market for them either.
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I really want to power antenna back in my car for some odd reason, but since I have none of the parts, it probably would cost a bunch
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Looking great Kerry! Love the attention to detail!
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I would imagine an aftermarket unit would not be that much trouble. This factory job is a major PIA though :lol: I will be glad when this part is buttoned up and over with.
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I would imagine an aftermarket unit would not be that much trouble. This factory job is a major PIA though :lol: I will be glad when this part is buttoned up and over with.
None of the after markets look right so it would have to be an OEM unit, might be something for down the line
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I would imagine an aftermarket unit would not be that much trouble. This factory job is a major PIA though :lol: I will be glad when this part is buttoned up and over with.
Why, aren't you going to sell it anyway haha
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Radio is finally in place. I have been fighting with that thing for way too long now. I still am not sure how I even got it to fit! It was like trying to put 10lb in a 5lb bag. The dash was cut for an aftermarket radio and I had a fellow 3d print a backer plate for me. He did an amazing job but in the end there was just enough original dash in place to hold and I did not need the new part. I had the radio working before the install. I fought with the thing to get it in place. Turned on the key and all I had was the fm/am light. SO, back to the drawing board. Pulling my notes out and checking the connections. Everything looked ok, pulled stuff apart and reconnected etc. Feeling pretty good, turned the key and the same thing :sad: Then it hit me. When I was moving stuff around the hot wire hit the metal floor and there was a small spark :? Looking at the fuse panel, sure enough it had blown. Replaced that, turn the key on and everything worked like it should :lol: The only thing left is the antennae. I had to order a plug for it, once it shows up I can make the connections and hope that it works.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54408175491_63659620c9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTS82e)20250324_144740 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTS82e) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54407226827_d6af764561_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTMg1X)20250324_121125 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTMg1X) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54408475475_970c7a4ab9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTTEcn)20250324_121138 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTTEcn) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54408310013_0bd9fea043_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTSP1z)20250324_144845 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTSP1z) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54408444460_9d75ce8c21_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTTuYC)20250324_155254 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTTuYC) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54408476850_97af5993d6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTTEB5)20250324_161451 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTTEB5) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54407227797_aa3e2c134c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTMgiF)20250324_161442 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTMgiF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54408281904_2b19814716_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTSEDW)20250324_161437 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTSEDW) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Very cool!!!
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Radio looks fantastic, I remember seeing the first digital displays and how high tech it was in the day. Great progress!
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I really want to power antenna back in my car for some odd reason, but since I have none of the parts, it probably would cost a bunch
The parts really are not too costly. I put together the the entire setup for a friend who bought his 10th with an aftermarket antenna. The most difficult part to source was the lower antenna mounting bracket.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54409647040_bc97bdbe74_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTZEsL)20250323_123504 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTZEsL) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54409647280_fae3d5ae36_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qTZEwU)20250323_112402 (https://flic.kr/p/2qTZEwU) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I think the antennae may have been shared across the board a bit. When I was doing searches it seemed that corvette came up alot. I was lucky that I still had the bracket even thought the original antennae was swapped out for a ford unit. The ant. are not cheap compared to an aftermarket part but I guess theyre not all that bad either. I was lucky in that I was gifted this one.
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Am I correct in assuming it’s a pain to install the power antenna?
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I certainly hope not! I dont think it will be too bad. I have not done mine yet because I am waiting for a waterproof connector that was supposed to be at my house Sunday morning :shock: The top of the ant. screws in with a ferrule through the hole in the fender and there is the above mentioned bracket that bolts to the body of the ant. that attaches with a bolt and clip to the top side of the inner fender well. I think it all should go together well.
The antennae itself has a 3 wire plug. Of course my car was butchered and there was only a 2 wire plug that was incompatible. I ran 3 new wires spliced under the dash to the original wiring that goes to the relay in the glove box. They are through the firewall but will need a plug to attach to the antennae wire. I suppose I could just cut everything and wire directly but I fell better with a plug.
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Yes, that is the bracket. If anyone has an extra, I'd like to have one!
This is the ferrule for the top of the fender. The one on the right is an original piece. The one one the left is the repop that is available. Don't bother with the reproduction... it's trash.
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I think my next project will be interior finishes. I was missing the support bar that connects the dash under the steering wheel. I wasnt sure if I ever had one. Before ordering I decided to look around. I found one, got a coat of paint on it last night. Should be ready for install today. Also found another glove box with the lid attached, BUT it looks like its only about 10 more openings from giving way. I may use it for now though. Found a seat belt buckle cover I may be able to use for the back seat. A whole slew of other parts that should go to the swap meet. If I had nothing better to do I would set up a table at Carlisle. I may do a good clean out of parts when this project is finished. Also I was missing the screws that go through the bottom of the dash to the bezel. I do have 3 extras and one had the screws in it. So that was a bit of a bonus.
I bought some sound deadener a couple of years ago that has been sitting on the floor in my office. I think now is a good time to open it up and see what I bought :???: I may have to get some more sound mat/insulation though. I put the stock part in my 77 which was really just a heavy tar paper. I want to try to get this one as quiet as possible.
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I have always loved the TATA, I love this project
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I forgot to add, that after my years of searching for correct carpet I have found a piece. It was on my shelf this whole time :shock: I apologize to the person I bought if from if they are still on here as I have forgotten their name. But, I bought the radio from them and they wrapped it up in a used carpet. All of this time sitting on my shelf I knew it was there, but for some reason I thought it was just a piece. Turns out its complete, dirty, stained and grungy looking but it is an original Tenth carpet! Def going to be worth my time trying to salvage. At this point I really have nothing to lose with it. I looked around for a company that will re-dye but cannot find anyone. I did find some DIY stuff that I may end up trying. In the meantime, a good cleaning will tell me how much work its going to need.
Also, in a box I had no idea that was there was a pair of front seat covers. Dr. quality, not good enough for the show car I am building but def good enough until I get new ones.
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I forgot to add, that after my years of searching for correct carpet I have found a piece. It was on my shelf this whole time :shock: I apologize to the person I bought if from if they are still on here as I have forgotten their name. But, I bought the radio from them and they wrapped it up in a used carpet. All of this time sitting on my shelf I knew it was there, but for some reason I thought it was just a piece. Turns out its complete, dirty, stained and grungy looking but it is an original Tenth carpet! Def going to be worth my time trying to salvage. At this point I really have nothing to lose with it. I looked around for a company that will re-dye but cannot find anyone. I did find some DIY stuff that I may end up trying. In the meantime, a good cleaning will tell me how much work its going to need.
Also, in a box I had no idea that was there was a pair of front seat covers. Dr. quality, not good enough for the show car I am building but def good enough until I get new ones.
Score!
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I received the carpet cleaner today. I will tackle that tomorrow. I got the dash bezel installed, I forgot the trim rings for the a/c vents so I had to order 2 more pieces. Under steering wheel cover installed, now the dash is starting to look finished. I had some liquid spray on boom mat. I used the 2 cans that I had on the floor and inside tire wells. I also have a roll of sticky foam I am going to put on top of the spray. My front window trim on the pass side never seated correctly. When I would try to pop one end in place the other end would pop out. OR the straight top piece would pop back off. I got tired of fighting with it so I taped it into place for another day. Today was that day. I pulled it off figuring start from square one. The inside edge was kinda banged up from hitting the clip, so I straightened that out, I installed plastic clips and a couple of good wacks with the heel of my hand and it seated into place nicely. I purposed stayed away from the plastic clips because when I did this on my 77 they were junk and would not work properly. I figured I had nothing to lose hence why I tried them again. I also put the tape on my door handles.
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Used the little green carpet cleaner machine. It did a pretty good job cleaning but the stains and spots are still there, need to think about step 2. I may run the cleaner over at least one more time as the water that came back was pretty dirt. Put it out in the sun to dry good.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420332893_14165fa8f4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWqZB)20250330_120729 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWqZB) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420283099_9fb375e157_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWbc6)20250330_143641 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWbc6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420274704_1796c495be_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUW8Gm)20250327_102758 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUW8Gm) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Put some sound deadener in. I used some spray on stuff then some sticky back foam stuff. I also found some original type product that I bought at some point for the rear quarter sides.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420329438_3d8c5af67b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWpY3)20250328_163459 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWpY3) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54419228307_3d1b0d16e0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUQLD2)20250328_164232 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUQLD2) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420330173_a509cca5f6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWqbH)20250328_165736 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWqbH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420086216_1ac5ecfb95_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUVaEy)20250330_123328 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUVaEy) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Rear seat belt buckle trim was burnt with something. I found some red ones in my stash, so I took the cover off of one, a little bit of primer and colour and it now looks like new.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420273739_246b956ef1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUW8pH)20250326_172357 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUW8pH) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420472440_eccdcd02bd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX9tA)20250329_154639 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX9tA) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420473450_0a7e44a7b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX9M1)20250330_125332 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX9M1) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420473525_880da6d47c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX9Ni)20250330_125526 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX9Ni) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
One of the door jamb vents had a broken corner. I will probably replace with a better one but for the time being some pc7 epoxy and a little paint and its good enough to use. I also took them apart to clean well and also clean the fabric 'filter?' that is in there as well.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54419225437_0deccd9c96_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUQKMx)20250328_135334 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUQKMx) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420329083_b8a1612d56_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWpRV)20250328_162644 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWpRV) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420326103_8e08d5c26d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWoYx)20250326_173805 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWoYx) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420085411_6ddfb5721d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUVaqF)20250329_154630 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUVaqF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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I got the antennae adapter in the mail the other day, installed and installed the antennae. It was not as easy as I thought it would be, but went in nonetheless.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420279149_2bf586fe06_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWa1Z)20250329_133649 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWa1Z) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420279619_ce7acc9a06_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWaa6)20250329_142001 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWaa6) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420087566_9719ac81e8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUVb4Q)20250330_143304 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUVb4Q) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Dash is finished, I realized I did not get trim rings for the a/c vents so 2 were ordered, of coarse they only have one and the other is on BO. Hopefully it wont take too long. Also put the tape on the door handles.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420328648_25b40f315a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWpJq)20250328_153453 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWpJq) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420080806_acbf389aa8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUV94h)20250328_153008 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUV94h) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420467980_e3be418e69_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX89G)20250328_153324 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUX89G) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
I finished the striping across the top of the car between the two colours
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420282379_8deceff03c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWaYF)20250330_132604 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWaYF) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
Then I figured I may as well do around the back window
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54419233052_57f1a587e3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUQN3Q)20250330_143149 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUQN3Q) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420282694_8d462ce28b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWb57)20250330_143136 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWb57) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The window turned out nice, I had to make the sharp turn in a couple of pieces. Then After admiring my work I realized I installed it backwards :shock: I am still on the fence what to do (I know I wont be happy until I change it). One thought is that probably most people will never know the difference. The other thought is I will. I dont have the heart to tear it off yet.
Also installed the new package tray trim that has been in my office for several years now. I tried some 3m glue but it was not tacky enough. I had to use contact cement to glue down the flap behind the seat.
I was able to get the black car out for its first wash since last Oct, and boy did it need it! Unfortunately I did not get to drive it any further than back into the garage.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420279444_3d65ec70f9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWa75)20250329_141004 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWa75) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
The at one point in the afternoon, my wife was screaming about some commotion in the back yard. It seems that Suki and Quincey made a new friend
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54420330593_c00d513a24_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWqiX)20250329_110756 (https://flic.kr/p/2qUWqiX) by Kerry Grubb (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156399515@N07/), on Flickr
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Here, in Kansas, those are similar looking to the Western Ratsnake. Non-venomous and are either tame to handle or in a pissy mood.
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Looks incredible!!!! Nice job
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We just call them black snakes. Funny thing is whenever someone says they have seen one its always 6' long, LOL. This one was pretty agitated with the girls jumping and barking. He was doing some striking but no hits. As far as I know the only poisonous snakes in our area are copperheads.
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Thanks Dave. I can almost see the finish line :grin:
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Yup, I'm happy to live in Ohio.... Our biggest problem is dear running out into the road all the time. I swear, they are trying to get my car! I've had way too many close calls. Ya, we do have coyotes but they usually stay away.
Car is looking killer Kerry!
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Looking great Kerry! What's the ETA on first drive? You going to Carlisle?
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Regarding the antenna adapter, I am always amazed when you are able to locate obscure NOS parts. Maybe the same adapter part was used on other GM cars. Now that the antenna is in, have you been able to test it?
That is a bummer about the rear window pin strips. I know you won’t be able to leave it that way, but it can easily wait until a later time. Like you said, 99% would never notice the difference.
One thing I realize in watching your build is how many little different details there are on the TATA cars, compared to other TA’s, all adding up to a lot more work.
Great progress!
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I think there is some deep seeded reason why I wont take it out for a drive. I may be afraid to at some level :shock: The excuse I keep telling myself right now is that tires are unsafe even for a spin around the block. They are really bad. 2 have been holding air the other 2 not so much. I had a couple of things come up that ate into my tire budget, so it may be a couple more weeks before I get those. I also want to get my wheels re-finished before I get new tires mounted.
I spent the last week when I had time cleaning the carpet. I have used the green machine numerous times now with every combination of cleaner known to man :shock: The carper is actually coming up nicely. But it will need a little attention. At this point the interior is waiting on the carpet. I almost put the new piece I have in just because but I know if I do that I will never get to the original piece. In the meantime I may start working on my wheels again.
I do not have a time frame for getting it on the road but early summer would be nice.